For years, this high-quality Venetian restaurant from Diane and Cesare Benelli has been deservingly popular with American food writers (and TV chefs such as the late Anthony Bourdain), so expect to be eating with plenty of fellow tourists. It features two cozy dining rooms adorned with art (plus some outdoor seating in summer), but it’s the food that takes center stage here: fresh fish from the lagoon or the Adriatic, fruits and vegetables from local farms, and meat sourced from esteemed Franco Cazzamali Butchers. The pasta, desserts, and sauces are all homemade. Begin with Venetian saor, sweet and sour fish and shellfish, or fried zucchini flowers, followed by salt cod in cocotte, taggiasca olives, salina capers and rosemary, or Piemontese beef tagliata with potato fries, chicory sprouts, and homemade ketchup. Diane’s desserts might include rustic pear and prune cake with grappa-cinnamon sauce or green apple sorbet with Calvados.