advertisement

Classy but laid-back Venetian trattoria (not to be confused with the posher osteria with the same name), with 2 cozy little rooms and 11 tables. The menu features typical Venetian dishes like squid ink pasta, but the specials here are the most fun, with moeche (local soft-shell crab) a particular treat (the two main seasons are Mar–Apr and Oct–Nov). Desserts are another specialty, with all sorts of sugary golosessi on offer, from buranelli to zaletti (cornmeal cookies, typically eaten dipped in sweet wine or chocolate), and an exceptional sgroppino al limone (lemon sherbet). Make sure you visit the associated bar and cicchetteria next door, the Bacaro di Fiore (Wed–Mon 9am–10pm), which has been around since 1871, serving cheap wine and snacks like fried fish, fried vegetables (zucchini, pumpkin flowers, and artichokes), meatballs, grilled cuttlefish, sardines, and crostini with creamed cod.