Things To Do in Vézelay

On a hill surrounded by countryside, Vézelay is one of France’s most spiritual places, as its basilica (see below) is said to house the remains of Mary Magdalene; both it and the hill are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The town, which is known for its sculptured doorways, mullioned windows, and corbelled staircases, began as an abbey founded in 858 by Girart de Roussillon, Comté de Bourgogne. It’s also classed as one of France’s most beautiful villages.

On March 31, 1146, St. Bernard preached the Second Crusade here; in 1190, the town was the rendezvous point for the Third Crusade, drawing such personages as Richard the Lion-Hearted and King Philippe-Auguste of France. Later, St. Louis IX came here several times on pilgrimages.

Park outside the town hall and walk through the medieval streets lined with 15th-, 16th-, and 18th-century houses and flower-filled gardens. Download a free guided tour to your smartphone from www.guidigo.com to help you better appreciate the details, and background of what you'll be seeing.  Musée Zervos at 14 rue St-Etienne (http://vezelay.fr/site/le-musee-zervos; tel. 03-86-32-39-26; admission 5€, free for ages 25 and under; July–Aug daily 10am–6pm, closed Tues rest of year and mid-Nov to mid-Mar) is worth a look for its fine collection of modern art, including works by Picasso.

If you’re in the mood to shop, head for rue St-Etienne and rue St-Pierre; you’ll find an assortment of stores selling religious books and statuary. For a bottle or two of Vézelay wine, go to Cave Henry de Vézelay, 4 route de Nanchèvres, St-Père-sous-Vézelay (www.henrydevezelay.com; tel. 03-86-33-29-62). A brewery, Brasserie de Vézelay, on rue du Gravier (www.brasseriedevezelay.com; tel. 03-86-34-98-38) about 2km (1.4 miles) east of the town, makes organic and gluten-free beer and gives tours that include tastings.