Virginia Beach Attractions

The Sound of Freedom

The Naval Air Station Oceana is home to those low-flying U.S. Navy F-14 Tomcat and F/A-18 Hornet fighter planes whose thundering jets disturb the peace over the beach. That's the "sound of freedom" to patriotic locals; the "sound of money" to wags who emphasize that Oceana is the city's largest employer. Other than when they roar over at a 600-foot altitude, the best way for us civilians to see them up close is on a NAS Oceana Master Jet Base Tour offered by Carey Transportation in cooperation with the city of Virginia Beach (tel. 757/491-7866; www.beachstreetusa.com).The tours depart from the visitor information kiosk at Atlantic Avenue and 24th Street from mid-June through Labor Day weekend, Monday through Friday at 9:30 and 11:30am. Fares are $11 for adults; $9 for seniors and children 3 to 11, free for kids 2 and under. Everyone older than 18 years old will need a picture ID to get on the base. Do not bring backpacks.

Dolphin-Watching & Splashing with the Seals

Provided you're not overly prone to seasickness, one of the most interesting things to do here is to take an offshore dolphin-watching cruise given by the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center (daily June-Sept, Sat-Sun in spring and fall). The center also has whale-watching cruises in winter (also offshore) and sea life-collecting trips in summer. The trips cost $19 to $28 for adults, $14 to $24 for children 11 and under. The boats leave from Rudee Inlet. Call the aquarium or check its website for schedules (tel. 757/425-3474; www.virginiaaquarium.com). To make reservations, which are required, call (tel. 757/385-3474).

Another marvelous experience at the center, especially for children 8 and older, is its Harbor Seal Splash. Accompanied by an animal-care specialist, you actually get into a pool and splash around with the resident harbor seals and participate in a training session. The 2-hour sessions take place April through September. If you can afford it, the $125 per person is worth it. Call tel. 757/385-0300 for reservations, which are required.

Historic Homes

After touring Williamsburg, I am seldom in the mood to traipse through more old houses. Nevertheless, Virginia Beach has three to offer, two of which are somewhat different than those in Williamsburg. Dating to around 1680 and 1725, respectively, the Adam Thoroughgood and Lynnhaven houses are interesting because they were both built in the fashion of English farm cottages of Elizabethan times, years before Georgian architecture became prevalent elsewhere in Colonial Virginia.

Rather than drive yourself through Virginia Beach's sometimes horrific traffic, you can take a Summer History Tour offered by Carey Transportation in cooperation with the city of Virginia Beach (tel. 757/491-7866; www.beachstreetusa.com), which goes to the three historic homes reviewed below plus the Cape Henry Lighthouse and the Old Coast Guard Museum. The tours depart from the visitor information kiosk at Atlantic Avenue and 24th Street from mid-June through Labor Day weekend, Wednesday and Thursday at 10am. Fares are $10 for adults; $7 for students.

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Virginia Beach Nightlife

The prime performing arts venue is the 20,000-seat, open-air Verizon Wireless Virginia Beach Amphitheater, inland at Princess Anne and Dam Neck roads (tel. 757/368-8888 for schedule, 757/671-8100 for tickets). Big-name singers and bands appear here as well as more highbrow acts like the Virginia Symphony. About 7,500 seats are under cover, with some 12,500 spaces out on the lawn. Big TV screens and a state-of-the-art sound system let everyone see and hear what's going on. The season runs April through October.

During summer, there is nightly entertainment in Neptune Park, on the oceanfront at 30th Street, and frequent outdoor concerts on stages at 7th, 17th, and 24th streets along the Boardwalk (the visitor information center can tell you when and where). The biggest is the annual Verizon Wireless American Music Festival (tel. 757/425-3111) over Labor Day weekend on the beach at 5th Street. You might catch KC & the Sunshine Band on one stage, the Steve Miller Band on another.

The visitor center can tell you what's on, or go to www.beachstreetusa.com, the city's official entertainment site. As in Norfolk, Veer Magazine (www.veermag.com), and the "Daily Break" section in the local rag, The Virginian-Pilot (www.pilotonline.com), are good sources of entertainment information.

Hotels and restaurants all along the beach have live music for nighttime dancing during the summer. Just follow your ears along the Boardwalk -- but remember, some pubs along Atlantic Avenue can get rough late at night.