Embracing the Winter at the Carnaval de Québec

The buck-toothed ball of fur named Punxsutawney Phil came face to face with his shadow on Monday, which, as you may know, means a good six more weeks of winter. And as long as winter is going to stick around anyway, you might as well embrace it whole heartedly with a trip to Québec City for their spirited 50th Annual Québec Winter Carnival (www.carnaval.qc.ca), which runs to February 15th this year.

The carnival, which takes place primarily in three locations in pedestrian-friendly Québec City, features games, concerts, snow sculpture competitions, parades, races, dancing, and a load of other activities. The entire celebration is presided over by Bonhomme, a large, jolly, fluffy snowman who represents the spirit of winter for the residents of Québec. The incredibly low price of CAN $7 (US $5.20) will garner you a little plastic Bonhomme pass (called an "effigy" by the Québecois) that is good for all 17 days of the carnival and allows access to almost every single activity.

I began my weekend at the carnival by bundling up and heading outside (an activity that will be a theme throughout your visit) to cheer on the competitors in Le Grande Virée, a dogsled race that runs 3 1/2 miles through the heart of the charming Old City. After watching the graceful, powerful dogs, I made my way to Place Loto-Québec to pay a visit to Bonhomme's abode, the Ice Palace (Palais de Glace), a giant Medieval-style castle constructed with pure, crystalline ice blocks. You can walk through the castle, but be sure to have your Bonhomme effigy close at hand, lest you be thrown into the dungeon of the palace for a minute or so. Keep an eye out for the yellow-and-blue-attired Knuks, merry pranksters who sing, dance, and otherwise entertain in and around the Ice Palace throughout the day.

After emerging from the Ice Palace unscathed, I walked over to the nearby Plains of Abraham, a large swathe of parkland where many of the activities and attractions of the carnival are found. I checked out the impressive snow sculptures, created by professional snow sculptors, before making my way to a man-made lake for some ice fishing. Full disclosure: While the six-year-old next to me hauled trout after trout out of his fishing hole in the space of five minutes, my line came up empty. I left my fishing adventure and warmed up for a while in a heated tent where kids were enjoying all sorts of activities, from a stack-the-Oreo-cookies game to a giant puzzle. Defrosted, I headed out to become a player in the carnival's giant living Foosball (table soccer) game. We won't discuss the results of the journalists v. Quebécois game.

Most of the carnival sites and activities are open until 10 or 11pm every day, so after dinner, I headed back to the Plains of Abraham for some nighttime fun. I climbed up the stairs of the Natrel Ice Tower, which, like the Ice Palace, is built of ice, to survey the festivities from above, and then slid down the tower's ice slide. In the mood for some more sliding, I took an exhilarating and slightly dizzying innertube sled ride. I ended the night by heading to a heated tent to partake of some Caribou, a potent drink most often made of whiskey, red wine or rum, and maple syrup (a journalist once commented that the drink was appropriately named because after consuming a large quantity the night before, he felt like he had antlers growing out of his head and fur growing on his tongue) and to listen to traditional Québec music. I ended the day dancing at the outdoor disco at the Ice Palace, which looked even more magical at night, lit by colored lights. The perfect end to a perfect winter day.

Upcoming Carnaval Events

Some of the events that will occur over the next few weeks include a free-style trampoline-jumping show on February 6th, a flapjack breakfast, a create-your-own-snow-sculpture event, and a canoe race on February 7th, a snowshoe obstacle course challenge on February 8th, free downhill skiing lessons for kids ages 5 through 8 from February 11th through 15th, a dog agility competition and beautiful night parade on February 14th, an arts and crafts market on February 8th and 15th, and Human Scrabble and a closing show on February 15th, among many, many other events. And don't forget the Sleeman concert series, which offers Québec's best musical entertainment throughout the festival.

Where to Stay

I spent my nights at the Hilton Québec (800/447-2411; www.hilton.com), which was your typical big, clean, amenity-filled Hilton, with the advantage of being located right in the middle of all the carnival festivities. In fact, I could gaze out on Bonhomme's Ice Palace as I put on my many layers each morning. Right now, the Hilton has a special 2-adult package that includes 2 nights at the hotel and 2 passes to the carnival for $329 total.

If you're looking for something more atmospheric, the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac (800/828-7447; www.cphotels.com), the magnificent symbol of the city, is sure to do the trick. Filled with luxurious rooms and boasting breathtaking views, the hotel is located about a 10-minute walk from most of the carnival sites.

What's that you say? You want something completely different? Then try out the Ice Hotel (877/505-0423; www.icehotel-canada.com), which is exactly what it sounds like -- a fairytale hotel made completely of ice and snow. On site you'll find 37 rooms and suites (you'll sleep in a high-tech mummy-style sleeping bag on an ice bed), a cinema, a chapel (the day that we were there they were planning to host a groom from Scotland who was wearing a kilt -- brr), 2 hot tubs and a sauna, a disco, and the ABSOLUT ice bar, where drinks are served in ice glasses and tips for the bartender often melt into the top of the bar. If the experience of staying here sounds too frosty (the temperature is a chilly 27 degrees Fahrenheit), you can always visit for a tour and a drink in the bar. Tours start at 10am every day.

For loads of other lodging choices from our guides online at www.frommers.com/destinations/quebeccity and www.frommers.com/destinations/montreal.

Tips for Your Trip

• If you have kids, grandkids, nieces, nephews and so on, take them! This is an incredibly family-friendly event.
  
• If you're taking kids who usually use a stroller, do like the Québecois do and consider buying a little plastic or wood sled and attaching a cord to it in order to transport kids and kid-related baggage across the slushy carnival grounds.
  
• Bundle up with lots of layers. Especially important are WELL-INSULATED boots, since you'll be walking on snow, ice, and slush for much of your visit.
  
• Remember: Sometimes a snowman is just a snowman. If you ask a Québecer who plays the life-size Bonhomme, they will look at you and say "Bonhomme IS Bonhomme".
  
• Take it easy on the Caribou!

So what are you waiting for? Check out this article (www.frommers.com/book_a_trip/deal_north_america/deal.cfm?destid=NORTH_AMERICA&articleid=1686) for current deals to get you up north. You can also hop in your car if you're nearby (remember Québec City is only 500 miles from New York City, and less than 400 miles from Boston). And remember, if you don?t make it this year, the Carnaval is held every year: same place, same time. Bon Voyage! And Bon Carnaval!

Have you gone to the Carnaval? We'd love to hear about your revelries on our Quebec and Montreal Message Boards today.