Best Hotels Bets in Ireland on a Budget

March, 2004 -- Accommodations will be one of the biggest expenses of your stay in Ireland, so it pays to consider before leaving what you really need and what you can do without. If you're on a very tight budget, but you still need more privacy than a bunk at a hostel offers, consider taking a private room in a hostel -- they're usually austere but they put a roof over your head for about half the price of a B&B. Or, if you prefer to stay in B&Bs, consider forgoing the private bathroom, which will save you a few dollars a night. By saving a dollar here and there, you'll be able to splurge at that delightful country-manor house or Norman castle you've been dreaming of.

As with most aspects of budgeting, planning ahead is an essential element of finding affordable places to stay. As a rule, weekends in Dublin from June to September are booked weeks or even months in advance, and the places with the best deals are always the first to go. During festival times in Dublin and throughout the country this will also be the case.

Note that when we refer to a double room we mean any room that will sleep two people; but in Irish parlance, double room usually refers to a room with a double bed, and a twin-bedded room means a room with two twin beds. When we say that a B&B has "three units, two with bathroom," that means that two of the three bedrooms have a bathroom with shower and bathtub in the room; if there's a shower but no bathtub, we indicate the number of rooms with shower only. In Ireland, the term for a room with private bathroom is an en-suite room. When we say that there's a reduction for children, that means a reduction for children under 12 sharing a room with an adult, unless specified otherwise. Also, most budget accommodations in Ireland do not offer telephones in the guest rooms. If a property does offer phones, we note it in the listing data for the hotel.

The Best B&B's

Lennoxbrook Country House (County Meath): Lennoxbrook is a thoughtful, well-crafted place. The rooms are beautiful, with bay windows overlooking a tangled forest and a magnificent beech tree. Guests are invited to pull up a chair in the Mullan family sitting room. Cornaross, Kell (tel. 046/45902; www.bizweb.it/en/lennoxbrook).

Buggy's Glencairn Inn (County Waterford): Ken and Cathleen Buggy have an incredible talent for getting the details right. Their guest rooms are chock-full of covetable auction finds, the beds are like something out of a fairy tale, and the restaurant is a foodie's destination in itself. Glencairn (tel. 058/56232; www.welcome.to/buggys).

Seven North Mall Guesthouse (County Cork): This lovely waterside town house guesthouse has attained cult status among travelers who know Cork City well. It dates from 1750 exudes an atmosphere of relaxation and elegant understatement. 7 North Mall, Cork (tel. 021/439-7191; www.bedandbreakfast-directory.co.uk).

Ballinatona Farm (County Cork): Set in a quiet and underrated corner of West Cork, this modern farmhouse commands astonishing views of the surrounding hills. Jytte Storm and Tim Lane, the energetic and outgoing hosts, will direct you to the Coomeenatrush Waterfall and other beautiful spots within walking distance of the house. Macroom road, Millstreet (tel. 029/70213; www.irishfarmholidays.com/ballinatona-farm.html).

The Captain's House (County Kerry): You won't get better value for the money in Dingle. Jim and Mary Milhench own and run this friendly, dapper little B&B right smack in the middle of town. Everything here is done with an eye for orderly, shipshape detail and the breakfasts are outstanding. The Mall, Dingle (tel. 066/915-1531; homepage.eircom.net/~captigh).

Rosturk Woods (County Mayo): Though it's well-located on the road between Newport and Achill Island, you won't realize how close it is to the sea until you reach the end of the long driveway. Rooms are spacious, prettily decorated, and very comfortable, with king-size beds and power showers in the bathrooms. Mulranny, Westport (tel. 098/36264; www.rosturk-woods.com).

Bruckless House (County Donegal): This mid-18th-century farmhouse, restored with impeccable taste, has many charms, including award-winning gardens and a stable of Connemara ponies. Spacious, welcoming, and comfortable, Bruckless House feels like home (or better) after only a very short time. Bruckless (tel. 074/973-7071; www.iol.ie/~bruc/bruckless.html).

Rhu-Gorse (County Donegal): The views of Lough Eske from this eminently comfortable modern guesthouse are not to be believed. If you have the makings of a convert to Donegal, it will happen here. Lough Eske, Donegal (tel. 074/972-1685; www.tourismresources.ie/fh/rhu).

Ross Castle and House (County Cavan): A tower room in a centrally heated haunted castle-with what's likely the longest bathtub you've ever seen-awaits you at Ross Castle. It won't take too big a bite out of your wallet, either. It might not be elegance, but it is unquestionably memorable. Warm, comfortable Ross Castle and nearby Ross House are great places to relax beside Lough Sheelin, a noteworthy source of trout and pike. Mount Nugent (tel. 049/854-0237; www.ross-castle.com).

Slieve Croob Inn (County Down): Whether you want to drop anchor and set up a home away from home in a self-catering cottage or just spend a night in a magically stunning landscape, it doesn't get much better than this perfectly tasteful hideaway in the magical Mournes. Seeconnell Centre, 119 Clanvaraghan Rd., Castlewellan (tel. 028/4377-1412; www.slievecroobinn.com).

Where To Forget Your Budget: The Best Places To Stay

Molesworth Court Suites (County Dublin): Hate hotels? Then consider an apartment. Tucked away behind Mansion House, Molesworth Courts is 5 minutes on foot to Stephens Green and yet is country quiet. These tastefully decorated, very comfortable apartments offer everything you need to set up your own base in Dublin, whether for a night or a week. Schoolhouse Lane, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/676-4799; www.molesworthcourt.ie).

Ballinkeele House (County Wexford): This grand Irish manor B&B, built in 1840 and in the Maher family for four generations now, is a wonderful place to appreciate Irish country-house living. Rooms are old fashioned in the grandest sort of way, with four-poster or half-tester beds and period touches everywhere. Ballymurn, Enniscorthy (tel. 053/38105; www.ballinkeele.com).

Iskeroon (County Kerry): David and Geraldine Hare's wonderfully light, Cape Cod-style B&B has an arrestingly beautiful setting in a 1.8-hectare (4 1/2-acre) tropical garden overlooking the sailboats of Derrynane Harbour and the Skelligs beyond. It's got the best of both worlds: tranquil and yet just short walk away to the beach or a lovely pub or the pier, for island cruises. Breakfasts are excellent, here, too. Bunavalla, Caherdaniel (tel. 066/947-5119; www.iskeroon.com).

Delphi Lodge (County Galway): This was once the country hideaway for the marquis of Sligo, and now it can be yours, too. Inside, the emphasis is on clean, bright simplicity in perfect taste, while outside the grounds and environs are among the most beautiful in Ireland. Tranquillity, comfort, and fishing are the operative words here. By renting one of the cottages for a week or more, you can make this indulgence more affordable. The Delphi Estate and Fishery, Leenane (tel. 095/42222; www.delphilodge.ie).

Temple House (County Sligo): The house is set on the shores of Temple House Lake, on an estate of some 400 hectares (1,000 acres), with a gorgeous walled garden and elaborate coach houses. Sandy Percival's family has lived in Temple House for more than 300 years, and Sandy has many a story to tell of their exploits. The evening meal, prepared by Deborah Percival, is a memorable experience. The atmosphere of casual elegance and affable unpretentiousness is truly seductive, and chances are you'll want to spend more than one night. Ballymote (tel. 071/918-3329; www.templehouse.ie).