What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Brazil

In a change from times past, Brazil's currency the Real (pronounced ray-al) has been holding steady against the US dollar for more than a year now (R$2.89-R$3 to US$1). Prices have remained stable; some have even been lowered. But even though travelers do not have to worry about devaluations anymore, it is still wise to take out only as much cash as you think you will need. Use your credit cards in hotels and restaurants to obtain the best exchange rates and avoid paying high commissions.

Night Owls Rewarded

The latest price war among Brazil's domestic airlines takes place in the early hours of the morning. Varig, Gol and Tam are competing fiercely on the red-eye flights and if you don't mind departing sometime between 10:30pm and 5am you can save yourself up to 50% off the regular fares

• Varig (www.varig.com.br; tel. 011/5091-7000 or 0300/788-7000) offers São Paulo-Fortaleza for R$299 (US$100), São Paulo-Salvador for R$229 (US$76) or Rio-Natal at the low rate of R$229 (US$76).
  
• Gol's (www.voegol.com.br; tel. 0300/789-2121) specials include Rio-Florianopolis for R$143 (US$47), Rio-Salvador for R$192 (US$64) and Recife-Salvador for R$99 (US$33).
  
• Tam also has some good deals such as (www.tam.com.br; tel. 0300-123-1000 or in São Paulo 011/3123-1000) Natal-Salvador for R$119 (US$39) or Rio-Natal R$229 (US$76), compared to R$448 (US$149) at the regular fare.

Please note that these rates are one-way fares only and can be purchased separately without buying a return flight allowing you to put together your own itinerary.

Rio de Janeiro

Unfortunately, one of the city's best free viewpoints, the Parque das Ruinas in Santa Teresa, has been closed for renovations. You can still access the terrace surrounding the building, but access to the top of the structure is closed. As with so many projects in Brazil, the re-opening date is sem previsão (unforeseeable). We expect it will take at least 3 to 6 months before the look-out reopens. For information and updates please contact Riotur at 021/2217-7575 or 0800-707 1808. The Museu Chacara do Ceu adjacent to the Parque das Ruinas remains open.

New Hotel in Accor Group

One of the most recent hotels of the Accor Group, the Parthenon Arpoador (Rua Francisco Otaviano 61, Rio de Janeiro, tel. 021/3222-9600; www.accorhotels.com), opened its doors in November of 2003. The hotel is located in the small wedge of Arpoador, the neighborhood that lies between Ipanema and Copacabana. The hotel fills a great niche offering affordable luxury accommodation, at a much lower price than the high-end Sofitel, located at the end of the street. All units are full one-bedroom suites with modern, "clean" furnishings. The trimmings are high-end and include fine linen, a flat screen TB/DVD in the living room and second flat-screen TV in the bedroom. Units come with a small well-supplied kitchen, CD-players and interesting artwork. Prices range from R$214 (US$72) for a double on weekends and R$299 (US$100) on weekdays. Children under eight stay for free.

Bed and Breakfsat Network

Your options for affordable and interesting accommodation in Rio have just expanded 50-fold. Located in Rio's charming hillside Santa Teresa, Cama e Café (literally: bed and breakfast in Portuguese) is the city's first and only Bed and Breakfast network. Over 50 rooms are available in a variety of houses and mansions in this unique neighborhood. Accommodations range from standard to ultra luxurious (R$65-R$240/US$22-US$81 per room, including breakfast). The owners of Cama e Café put quite a bit of effort into matching guests with their hosts. On-line, you fill out a questionnaire to indicate your interests such as art, music, architecture, history, nightlife or outdoor activities, languages spoken, a fondness (or dislike) of pets, the level of amenities (pool, A/C, private bathroom, etc) and voila, a few suggestions will come you're your way so you can pick accordingly. Santa Teresa is not at all beachfront -- the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema are a good 20-minute cab-ride away. However, what this neighborhood offers in exchange are stunning views of the city and mountains, and unique little glimpses into Rio's history and the daily life of its residents. We would recommend staying here at least for one or two nights during your stay in Rio. Contact info: Cama e Café, Rua Progesso 67 Santa Teresa Rio de Janeiro, Tel/fax: 021/2221-7635, www.camaecafe.com.br

25-year old Felipe Bronze, one of Rio's youngest hot-shot chefs, has just opened his first restaurant in Ipanema. After being one of the chefs responsible for Zuka's success (see Rio Dining), Felipe opened in March 2004 his own Z Contemporâneo in Ipanema. The focus of his kitchen is a blend of Asian influences, Italian, Indian and Brazilian. Fusion cuisine is relatively new to Rio's gourmet scene so it will be interesting to see how Cariocas take to his creations. Look for grilled steak with an urchin and foie gras emulsion or a gyoza with meat confit stuffing or a Pantanal veal served with a crunchy vegetable curry. Rua Paul Redfern 37, Ipanema. tel. 021/2512-9494. Open daily noon-4:30pm and 7pm-1am. Main courses R$36-R$64 (US$12-US$21). www.zcontemporaneo.com.br

São Paulo

With over 100 years of fine dining experience, the Fasano family has now added a luxury hotel to their name. Located in the upscale Jardins district, Fasano fills a newly discovered hotel niche in São Paulo: luxury boutique-style accommodation. With only 64 rooms, the Fasano offers outstanding service in 1930s style decor. The 56 rooms and six suites offer all the luxuries you can expect from a top hotel. Each room comes equipped with high-end electronics such as a 29-inch flat-screen TV, CD player and DVD and high-speed Internet. Furnishings are sparsely elegant with light colours and blond wood and the beds are made with 500-thread Egyptian cotton sheets and goose-feather pillows. The hotel also houses a spa, business center and exercise room. Oh, and of course there's food and beverage. The hotel's main restaurant Fasano is considered South America's best Italian restaurant and Baretto Bar was recently named the number 1 bar in the world by prestigious Wall Paper magazine. Not too shabby for hotel food. Rua Vittorio Fasano 88, 01414-020 São Paulo. www.fasano.com.br, tel. 011/3896-4000, fax: 011/3896-4155. reservation@hotelfasano.com.br. Rates for superior rooms start at R$679 (US$227) on weekend and R$944 (US$315) on weekdays, the one bedroom suites start at R$1328 (US$443) on weekends and R$2036 (US$680) on weekdays.

One of the largest cultural events in Latin America, the São Paulo Bienal takes place from September 25th to December 19th, 2004. Held every two years in Ibirapuera Park since 1951, the Biennial is considered one of the most significant contemporary visual art exhibitions in the world. The 2004 theme "Território Livre" translated into English by the Bienal's press office as the more obscure "Image Smugglers in a Free Territory" deals with the idea of the no-man's land --geographically, politically and socially, and also in the field of aesthetics, where art defies the boundaries of reality. Works of artists representing 55 countries will be on display, with a special focus on Asian and African artists, including a special exhibition on African Photography. For more information call 11/5574-5922, ext.264/265. Exhibits and events take place from Tue-Fri 1pm-9pm and Sat-Sun 10am-10pm. Admission R$15 (US$5). http://bienalsaopaulo.terra.com.br

Salvador

One of Brazil's most popular destinations, Salvador is now flush in new and affordable hotel options. Don't feel like blowing all your travel dollars on accommodation, check out some excellent budget options right in Rio Vermelho, situated halfway between the historic city and the golden ocean strands. The French Accor Group has been building up a storm all across Brazil and its two latest investments in Salvador are great news for leisure and business travellers. Side by side, the Mercure and the Ibis are brand new hotels, inaugurated at the end of 2003. The Mercure (Rua Fonte do Boi 215, Salvador, tel. 071/330-8200) is the slightly more upscale of the two, offering 175 rooms with rates starting at R$135 (US$45) on weekends and R$145 (US$48) on weekdays.

Even better value is the Ibis Salvador (Rua Fonte do Boi 215, Salvador, tel. 071/330-8300), owned by the same chain and located right next door. With more basic amenities than the Mercure, rooms start at R$75 (US$25) on weekends. You can expect a spotless clean modern room with comfortable beds, TV, mini-bar, full private bathroom (showers only). Breakfast is not included. To book rooms at either one of the hotels, contact the general reservations office at 0800-703-7000 or check www.accorhotels.com.

Alas, the long awaited opening of the Sofitel Pelourinho has been delayed once again. It turns out that the transition from historic convent to deluxe boutique hotel is not a smooth one. Supposed to have been in operation in May 2004, the luxury chain's newest property in the heart of the historic city is now scheduled for early 2005.

Instead of connecting through Rio or São Paulo, Tam travelers now have the option of flying non-stop Miami-Salvador. Flights depart Miami every Sunday at 8:15 and arrive in Salvador at 17:15. Return flights leave Salvador on Sunday at 10:30am and arrive in Miami at 17:30. If you are planning to fly around Brazil to several destinations, you can save yourself some time and money by ending or starting your trip in Salvador instead of having to buy an additional domestic ticket to backtrack to Rio or São Paulo for your international flight. For more details contact Tam Airlines in Miami tel. 305/477-5997 or in Brazil 0300/123-1000. Online check www.tam.com.br for details.