What's New: An Online Update for Frommer's Mexico

These days, Mexico is an attractive destination for travelers. In the last year the Mexican peso has declined against the dollar, even as the dollar has declined against most major currencies. This makes Mexico inexpensive for Americans, Canadians, and especially Brits. The price difference isn't very large on the coast, where hotels and resorts peg their rates to the dollar, but, in the cities and towns of the peninsula's interior, the bargain rates are readily noticeable.

And the present political climate has changed perceptions of Mexico. Before terrorism became a major concern for travelers, many perceived Mexico as a riskier destination than Europe. Today, the reverse is the case; going to Mexico is seen as relatively trouble-free travel. With these advantages, Mexico has enjoyed a surge in the number of visitors.

Politically and socially, Mexico remains stable. Like the U.S., it has been experiencing economic hard times. On the national scene, the economic slowdown comes at a bad time for Mexico, which is experimenting with democratic pluralism and multiparty government for the first time in its history. There is a growing impatience with the rate of reform, and debate over the direction of President Vicente Fox's economic policies and whether they will increase employment. But this has not led to very much political and social unrest. Instead, the public took out its frustrations at the ballot box. In recent elections, the two main opposition parties won many seats in the national legislative assembly. Power is now much more evenly divided, which could lead to a government of inaction for the duration of Fox's presidency.

Planning Your Trip to Mexico

Frontier Airlines (www.frontierairlines.com) opened new service or expanded service to popular Mexican beach destinations in late 2003. Routes now include nonstop service from Denver to Puerto Vallarta, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Los Cabos, Cancún, and Mazatlan.

Web travel merchants like Orbitz (www.orbitz.com) and Expedia (www.expedia.com) have expanded their international airfare offerings to give consumers considerably more itinerary and airline choices. Where these online travel services have built a solid reputation-and following-for clients looking for U.S. travel, international bookings were generally not available.

Aeromexico (www.aeromexico.com) became the first carrier to offer nonstop service between Boston and Mexico City, with continuing service to Cancún. Beginning in February 2004, Aeromexico now operates daily flights between the two cities.

Mexicana (www.mexicana.com) announced the adaptation of its executive lounges into hotspots, offering passengers wireless high-speed Internet access. Initially, Mexicana set up the new technology at its lounges in Mexico City, Los Angeles, and San Antonio, and later in Acapulco, Cancún, and Guadalajara. Access will cost users $3 for 2 hours, $11 per day, $35 per week, and $65 per month.

Fort Lauderdale, Florida-based Spirit Airlines (www.spiritair.com) began flying to Cancún in December 2003, launching the airline's first international route. In answer to a growing demand for low-fare service to Cancún, the daily nonstop Cancún-Fort Lauderdale flight will connect the resort with Detroit, Chicago/O'Hare, Atlantic City, New York/LaGuardia, Washington, D.C./Reagan National, and Myrtle Beach. Fares from Fort Lauderdale to Cancún begin at $79.

Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair.com) has added daily service to Guadalajara from Los Angeles, increasing the number of Alaska's Mexican destinations to seven. The airline serves numerous flights between the U.S. and Cancún, Ixtapa, Los Cabos, Manzanillo, Mazatlan, and Puerto Vallarta.

Continental Airlines (www.continental.com) recently introduced seasonal nonstop service between Houston and Manzanillo.

In February 2004, United Airlines (www.united.com.) began exclusive, Saturday-only service to Cancún from its east-coast hub at Washington Dulles International Airport. United currently offers daily flights to Mexico City from Washington Dulles.

Mexico City

As part of a larger downtown redevelopment project, Mexico City's 16 sq. km (6-sq.-mile) historical center is getting a face-lift, due to a multimillion-dollar public and private joint venture. The project includes the renovation of old buildings, cleaning and scrubbing the city streets, addition of streetlights, planting of flowers, and restoration of colonial buildings, many of which were built on foundations that are now sinking.

More than 400 police officers in Mexico City recently completed a "Tourist Security" program that is part of the city's efforts to reduce crime and increase tourism. The ongoing program includes English lessons and educational tours of spots frequented by tourists in Mexico City, including museums, churches, and historical sites. Earlier in 2003, police on horseback wearing traditional Mexican charro outfits-complete with wide-brimmed sombreros-began patrolling the 22-acre Alameda Park in the capital's historic district.

Accommodations

After several years of planning and anticipation, W Hotels (www.starwood.com) opened its first hotel in Latin America, the W Mexico City, located in the upscale Polanco district, on the corner of Campos Eliseos and Andres Bello. In keeping with the brand's focus on unique design, the 25-story, 237-room hotel features cherry-red rooms, hammocks in the showers, a sunken private dining room, and a transparent-glass facade over the first five floors, giving sidewalk voyeurs a glimpse of the hotel's restaurant, bar, and lounge scene inside. Facilities include Whiskey, Rande Gerber's first bar outside the U.S., a signature restaurant, a full-service spa, a ballroom and conference center, and nine high-ceilinged "loft suites."

The Hotel Habita (www.hotelhabita.com) in Mexico City was named winner of this year's BusinessWeek/Architectural Record Award for "Designing for Well-Being: Environments that Enhance the Quality of Life." With only 32 rooms and four junior suites, this luxury boutique hotel is located in the heart of the upscale Polanco district in Mexico City. One of the most interesting features of the hotel is its frosted glass facade, giving the building a glowing look. Among other amenities, the hotel features a lap pool and an open-air rooftop terrace.

Attractions

Mexico City inaugurated Latin America's tallest building in late June 2003. The Torre Mayor (Highest Tower) is located on the city's main boulevard, Paseo de la Reforma, and measures 225m (740 ft.) in height. The towering 55-story glass-fronted structure also features 30 high-speed elevators and 12 levels of parking for 2,000 cars.

Tourists to Mexico City are finding the Turibus (www.turibus.com.mx) the city's new, red double-decker tourist bus, a great way to see sights around the capital. Since it began service in September 2002, the bus has shuttled more than 62,000 passengers around town, according to Mexico's Ministry of Tourism (SECTUR). The tour covers 35km (22 miles) from the National Auditorium to the city center and from there to the Plaza de las Tres Culturas, returning via Avenida Reforma toward the neighborhood of Polanco, and finally to the Children's Museum (Museo del Niño). For those who stay on for the full ride, the circuit lasts approximately 3 hours. Tickets cost about $10 and are valid for an entire day. Headsets provide information in several languages, and English-speaking hostesses are also on-board to offer additional assistance. Each unit passes by at 15- to 30-minute intervals, according to demand. Hours of operation are year-round from 9am to 9pm; no tours on December 25 or January 1.

Archaeologists have discovered an ancient Teotihuacan settlement in central Mexico City behind the landmark Chapultepec Castle. The discovery of artifacts some 48km (30 miles) from the pyramids where the Teotihuacan culture flourished 2,000 years ago suggests the Teotihuacan culture spread and influenced the area around Mexico City earlier than previously thought. The discovery might push the date of Mexico City's founding back to the classic Teotihuacan period of A.D. 300 to A.D 600. Relics found include six pairs of Teotihuacan-style ceramic urns, ceramic domestic tools, a bone needle, a figurine believed to be used in rituals, and remnants of a stone wall and floor dating from the same period. Located north of Mexico City, the ancient city of Teotihuacan was one of the largest cities in the world around the time of Christ, with an estimated 150,000 inhabitants. These are the first remains to be found in Chapultepec Park, which served as a retreat for rulers from Aztec kings to Emperor Maximillian. The new site's excavation began with a restoration of the castle in 1998. At present, the site is closed to tourists.

Oaxaca

Continental Airlines is testing nonstop service between Oaxaca and Houston.

Puebla

Scheduled to reopen in early 2005 after extensive renovation, Puebla's Museo Bello y Gonzalez will be a can't-miss attraction. The collection abounds with fine decorative work from three continents.

Puerto Vallarta & The Central Pacific Coast

Accommodations

The enchanting Hacienda San Angel (322/222-2692; www.haciendasanangel.com) has opened its doors in downtown Puerto Vallarta. Once the home of Richard Burton, this stylish, sophisticated bed-and-breakfast offers guests their choice of nine suites, a heated terrace pool, and a host of pampering amenities.

Attractions

Vallarta Adventures (866/256-2739; www.vallarta-adventures.com) launched an excursion to Talpa and Mascota, beginning in late 2003. The 6-hour guided tour offers visitors insight into the everyday customs and traditions of life in authentic Mexican towns. Mascota is a 16th-century agricultural town nestled at the foot of the Sierra Madre mountains. The pine-and-oak forested colonial town, established in 1592 by early Spanish colonists, is one of the many stops on the tour, as is Talpa de Allende, which is considered to be one of the most important religious centers in Mexico. Talpa is famous throughout Mexico for its Gothic church dedicated to the Virgen Rosario de Talpa, to where pilgrims from throughout Mexico journey to pray for miracles. The 6-hour tour costs $130 per person, including transportation via private air charter.

Acapulco & The Southern Pacific Coast

Acapulco

Acapulco has a new venue for cultural and social events that doubles as a small inn for up to 18 guests. Built in the 1950s and recently renovated, Villa Manuia (744/484-0894 or 744/484-1273) is owned by Mexican writer Manu Dornbierer. It features four suites for 18 guests and offers several spaces for cultural and social events. The villa's garden, for example, seats up to 150 guests and is ideal for weddings or cocktails. On the first Saturday of every other month, Villa Manuia features exhibits from local artists and artisans in the garden.

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo

Melia Azul Ixtapa (800/336-3542; www.solmelia.com) has completed a $22 million expansion, complete with a new convention center. The two-story convention center will offer 5,775 sq. m (19,250 sq. ft.) of meeting space that can be divided into seven meetings rooms, as well as a business center and executive lounge. The new tower will also house an additional 137 guest rooms, bringing the total room count to 410 rooms and suites.

Oaxaca & Chiapas

The flights between Mexico City and San Cristobal de las Casas have ceased. You best option now is to fly into Tuxtla Gutiérrez.

Cancún

Cancún is stepping up its efforts to attract the growing golf travel market, with an expansion of its golf offerings. Close to $200 million will be invested over the next several years in the development and construction of new golf courses in Cancún's state of Quintana Roo. Together, Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and Cozumel have eight courses. The creation of eight more courses is being planned. A current promotional campaign is also in progress to host major golf events, including the 2004 Mexican Open Golf Tournament, to be held from December 11 to December 14. This event will be held at the Moon Palace Resort's golf courses in Cancún, with participation of golfers from Mexico and abroad. For more information visit www.golf.com.mx.

Accommodations

The Ritz-Carlton Cancún (800/241-3333; www.ritzcarlton.com) recently opened the Cobalt Lounge, the first Club Level lounge reserved exclusively for adult guests among the 54 Ritz-Carlton Hotels worldwide. The 2,044-sq.-m (2,200-sq.-ft.) lounge seats 30 and is located on the ninth floor, one floor above the existing Club Level Lounge. Open from 5:30 to 8pm, it offers a full cocktail menu, complimentary canap? and live music. The lounge name salutes the famous Ritz-Carlton blue cobalt goblets introduced at The Ritz-Carlton Boston in 1927.

The renowned French chain Sofitel announced plans to open a new hotel, the Sofitel Resort Cancún, its first property in Mexico. Scheduled to open in the fall of 2004, the Cancún's Sofitel will consist of 400 guest rooms, three restaurants, and a spa.

Attractions

Garrafon Park (www.garrafon.com) in Isla Mujeres offers a new thrill-seeker's adventure activity called the "Zip Line," where you can sail over clear blue water harnessed to a cable, reaching speeds of up to 48kmph (30 mph). In addition, Garrafon Park also offers underwater museums, snorkeling through artificial reefs, and other activities.

Cancún's Parque de las Palapas has undergone renovations to upgrade its offerings of weekend live music and danzones, the graceful dances of generations past. The city's municipal orchestra, which recently expanded its concert schedule, can also be heard there on Sunday afternoons.

With routes that travel throughout the Hotel Zone and into the downtown area, Cancún's 24-hour bus system is making it even easier to travel around this popular resort. The fare is only 60¢, and in an effort to further encourage the use of Cancún's public transportation system, two local companies have produced THEMAP, a pocket-size guide that outlines the bus route and highlights points of interest and other useful information. The guide is available at the Cancún International Airport, on buses, and in most hotels.

After Dark

In 2004, Avalon Resorts is slated to open The City, a high-concept nightclub, beach bar, and lounge featuring a world-famous porterhouse grill. Meant to evoke a "city within a city," the property, located in the Hotel Zone, will feature a three-dimensional urban skyline of skyscrapers and city towers.

Isla Mujeres & Cozumel

Cozumel

There are now two companies ferrying passengers between Cozumel and Playa del Carmen. Unfortunately, they insist on leaving at the same time rather than staggering their trips, so the new company doesn't add more than a couple of departure times to the service that was being provided by the first company.

American Airlines is testing regular commercial service between Cozumel and Dallas.

Puerto Morelos & Environs

The car ferry to Cozumel now leaves from the Calica pier, just south of Playa. There is still one early-morning ferry, but it is mostly for commercial cargo.

Playa del Carmen

Playa keeps growing and keeps feeling the growing pains. There has been a legal struggle over the construction of a new pier at the end of Avenida Constituyentes for passenger ferries to Cozumel. Another battle is brewing over whether to make Playa a homeport for cruise ships.

Costa Maya

The widening of the highway between Limones and Bacalar has been completed. It is now a modern four-lane highway. The same is true for the road from Limones out to the Majahual coast.

Río Bec Ruins

Parts of the ruins in Becan remain closed for restoration after they were damaged by a hurricane a few years ago.

Merida, Chichen Itza & The Maya Interior

The Merida's tourism office has changed its phone number to 999/942-0000, ext. 133. The location remains the same. Also, check out the much-improved website at www.merida.gob.mx.

Construction has begun on the new city market, designed to include green space and better parking. But until, it's completed, expect an increase in traffic jams in that part of the city, just southeast of the main square.

Los Cabos & Baja California

The One & Only Palmilla resort in Los Cabos, now owned by Kertzner Intl., reopened in January 2004, following an $80 million renovation that lasted 10 months. As part of the renovation, Palmilla opened C, a fine dining restaurant owned by celebrity chef Charlie Trotter, and the resort's room count increased to 172 rooms and suites. Kerzner launched One&Only as a luxury brand in Europe in late 2002.

The 237-suite Marquis Los Cabos Beach, Golf, Spa & Casitas Resort (877/238-9399; www.marquisloscabos.com), located along the Corridor connecting San José and Cabo San Lucas, opened its doors in April 2003. Since opening, it has been named to Leading Hotels of the World, Ltd., a prestigious luxury marketing organization representing 400 of the world's finest hotels. The Marquis Los Cabos is one of only 15 hotels in Mexico to receive this recognition. The resort features a dramatic 11m (36-ft.) waterfall, a chef with a Michelin pedigree, and a major Latin American art collection. To introduce guests to the resort, special spa and golf packages are being made available.

JTL Capital, of Dallas, TX, recently purchased the Las Ventanas al Paraíaso resort in Los Cabos from its original Mexican owners. Rosewood Hotels & Resorts, which has managed Las Ventanas since the property opened in July 1997, will continue operating the resort under a new long-term management agreement. As part of the deal, Las Ventanas will expand its spa and fitness center, build a library and espresso bar, and expand its shopping area.

In Todos Santos, the legendary Hotel California (612/145-0525 or 612/145-0522) has reopened, following a complete renovation. The newly hip hotel is decorated in dazzling style, with jewel hues and each room styled in a unique manner. A new boutique -- The Emporio Hotel California -- and the La Colonela Restaurant and Bar are also noteworthy additions.