Where's Johnny Jet? Shopping and Sight-Seeing in Marrakech

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Salam aleikum from North Africa. Last week we left off on my three-hour drive from Casablanca to Marrakech. Get ready to explore this surreal city that at times feels like Hollywood (no wonder so many movies are filmed here). We're set to check into a luxurious hotel, dine at some unbelievable restaurants, and of course go shopping in the medina. If you're up for something different, be sure to bring an extra bag -- at these prices we're bringing home a bunch of souvenirs and presents.

There are few different ways to spell this city's name: Marrakech (in French), Marrakesh (English) or Marrakesch (German), among others. I'll use the first style, the same way the locals spell it. Note: Because Frommer's does not publish a Morocco guidebook, I used Rough Guide to Morocco and the Rough Guides Marrakech Directions books. Both were good, and supplied plenty of helpful information; the latter also offered plenty of color photos. They're available at bookstores, or online at Amazon.com. The population of Marrakech is 745,800, the largest group being of Berber origin. But there is also a large international community of French, Spanish, German, Swiss, Italian and British natives -- plus many more.

I was in Marrakech for three nights. I stayed at Les Jardins de la Koutoubia Hotel. It's on a busy side street, a couple of blocks from the Koutoubia (a prayer tower of the 12th century mosque), the bustle of the Medina (daily market) and Jemaâ El Fna Square. The location is perfect. From the street the hotel is not attractive at all. But once you walk through the front door and see the plush lobby and oasis-like pool through partly open sash curtains, the first-time visitor says "wow." At check-in, arriving guests are greeted with a Moroccan tradition: sweet mint tea. It is so delicious. I'm not a huge tea drinker, but I couldn't get enough of this stuff. And the way the locals pour it -- a good foot from the skinny glasses -- is an art.

The five-star hotel has 72 air-conditioned rooms and suites. Each includes a telephone, satellite TV, mini-bar, hair dryer and safe. My room was very comfortable, and I loved balcony and marble bathroom. I had a view of the courtyard, where the pool and one of the hotel's three restaurants is located. I ate lunch there, and enjoyed a salad, pasta, meat and local Moroccan treats (details later). The breakfast buffet was not too shabby, and if you spend the time to shop around online or find a good tour operator you should be able to get it included in the daily rate. If you book directly through the hotel website, rates begin at 1,950 Moroccan Dirhams (MAD or DH) which is about $228 USD, for a single room (breakfast is not included). That's top dollar.

The hotel has an elevator, but I took the stairs. One reason is because I was only on the 2nd floor of 3; also, I loved the horseshoe arch/half moon doors. Almost all places have them. In the winter the frame is kept shut; when it's cold outside only the little door is opened. The hotel uses sensor lighting in the hallways. I wish all places would do this, because it's eco-friendly. There is free wireless internet in the lobby (I also got a weak signal on my balcony), a sophisticated piano bar and a small fitness center/spa. The staff was friendly (but at times verrrry sloooow). Not too many Americans (mostly Europeans) stay here. That's a plus, because when I travel overseas I like to feel like I'm overseas, not surrounded by Americans. Info: 26 rue de la Koutoubia; tel. +212/44-38-88-00; www.lesjardinsdelakoutoubia.com.

Riads

A great alternative to an international hotel is a riad. Riads were originally residential homes and many have been converted into guesthouses that still have a homey feel. The word "riad" means "garden" in Arabic, and all riads are built around a courtyard with a fountain and fruit trees (when it rains they slide a cover over). They are usually 2-3 floors and are made of timber, plaster and tiles. Riads are very popular -- there are almost 1,200 in Marrakech alone. Most can be found down side alleys in the Médina, making them seem like almost nothing from the outside. They are marked by just a small door, because the Islamic culture frowns on showing off wealth. In the old days visitors never knew someone else's social class until they walk through the door and see grand gardens and tapestry. That makes going to riads so much fun -- they're huge hidden surprises. Once you walk through the door, you're in a whole new world. I went to the really-hard-to-find Riad Chorfa (6, Derb Chorfa El kebir; tel. +212/24-44-30-05). Four hundred years old, it's a perfect place to relax, have a drink and check out the revolving art exhibitions.

Innovative female chef Zakia creates some unusual tasty salads at the luxurious Riad Dar Rhizlane and offers an amazing lunch and poolside barbecue. It's in the residential district of Marrakech: Dar Rhizlane, rue Jnane El Harti, quartier de l'Hivernage; tel. +212/24-42-13-03.

Some Tips

1. No matter where you are, it's always a good idea to ask someone before taking his or her picture. This is especially true in Morocco. In Marrakech's Jemaâ El Fna Square, be prepared to tip anyone you shoot.

2. It's illegal to photograph anything considered strategic, such as a police station, airport or the royal palace.

3. Don't walk into a mosque. That's a huge taboo for non-Muslims. Only two mosques in all of Morocco (the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, and the Moulay Ismael Mosque in Meknes) are currently open to non-Muslims.

4. Morocco is a very conservative country. Females -- especially those traveling alone -- should be careful not to smoke in public, or drink in a bar; otherwise, men might think they are prostitutes.

5. Most Muslim women are veiled from head to toe. However, female visitors are not expected to weir veils.

6. Museums are usually closed on Tuesdays.

More Food

To get to the first night's dinner my party walked through the club Pacha. It's the largest nightclub in North Africa, but there was no one inside (it was early). If this place is anything like its mother club in Ibiza, Spain -- it goes off. The massive complex has two adjoining restaurants. I ate at Jana, which features Moroccan cuisine. Its two floors are designed around a covered patio, with a motionless lap pool -size fountain in the middle. This is where the fez cap-wearing band members sat and played their instruments quietly. The low lighting and candles create a romantic ambiance. The food just kept coming out: first some delicious tapas, then a chicken- and cinnamon-filled pastry (oh my, was it good). The entrée was fish, but I had beef, and could barely move. Jana has great atmosphere, architecture and food, so I couldn't understand why it was empty. My host said it was because it was only 8:45 pm. In Morocco most people eat out around 9. Sure enough, a few minutes later it seemed like bus after bus was dropping guests off. The place quickly got packed and really loud; then the band members stood up and started banging their drums harder. For the grand finale (over tea), out came a beautiful belly dancer who dragged my two left feet onto the dance floor. Jana is now in my top 10 favorite restaurants. Jana, (212) 24-38-84-80.

Le Comptoir Darna

Another fantastic restaurant is Le Comptoir Darna. The red carpet entrance was like a scene out of a movie. Two men straight out of Lawrence of Arabia were saddled on top of their equally outfitted horses. The dark interior had attractive waitresses. A band played quietly alongside the staircase. A belly dancer popped out midway through the evening. I almost choked on my spring roll when I saw how beautiful she was. The food is good, expensive and elegantly presented. It was only fitting that in this Hollywood-feeling restaurant, Susan Sarandon sat at the table next to mine. Le Comptoir Darna, Av Echchouada -- Hivernage; tel.: 212 (0) 24-43-77-02.

Film Festival Party

Susan Sarandon and Laurence Fishburne were both in town for the annual Marrakech Film Festival (so was Martin Sheen, but I didn't see him). After dinner I went with a bunch of new friends to an opening festival party. It was at the monster private home of property developer Jaouad Kadiri and his Indian mogul wife Preeti Paul. The over-the-top opulent home was packed with Hollywood actors and Moroccan elite. The only things that kept me from thinking I was in L.A. were the army of Moroccan fez-wearing staff and the fact that everyone was smoking -- inside. I'm surprised the fire alarm never went off.

Morning Prayer

The smoke at the party was so bad I couldn't take it any longer -- even with all beautiful single women. I went to bed around 3am, and woke around 6 to some crazy Arabic voice over a loudspeaker miles away. I lay on my back with my eyes wide open, trying to figure out what the heck it was. At first I thought the city was being raided, and I tried to figure out my best options for getting out of Dodge. But then -- silly me -- realized I was in a Muslim country, and it was just the call to morning prayer from the nearby Koutoubia Mosque. I reached over the night stand and cracked opened the sliding glass door so I could listen, then fell back into bed, pulling the comforter over my shoulders to keep warm from the cold morning air.

Jardin Majorelle and Museum of Islamic Art: Just five minutes from the hotel are the gardens of the French painter Jacques Majorelle. Yves Saint Laurent now owns and maintains them. Majorelle built them in 1931. He opened the colorful property to the public in 1947, because at the time it was considered one of the most important plant collections around. The gardens, boasting plants from five continents, are open every day from 8am to 5pm (7pm in summer); entrance is only 30 MAD ($3.50). For an extra 15 MAD ($1.75) you can see Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé's Islamic art collection in a small two-room museum across the pond. What's interesting about Islamic art is that there are no references to humans or animals. Those living things are believed to compete with God. That's the same reason they all purposely have imperfections. Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech; tel.: (00212) 024-30-18.

Palais El Bahia: Just a short ride from the hotel is the Palais El Bahia (Bahia Palace). It was originally built in 1314 (that's the Islamic calendar; using the Gregorian calendar, it was 1897). The palace was built for Si Moussa, a former slave who rose himself up to become Moulay Hassan's grand vizier. The 16-acre property is beautiful and well worth seeing, especially because it recently underwent an extensive restoration overseen by Faisal Cherradi, the inspector of historical monuments and delegate of the Ministry of Culture in Marrakech. The entrance is lined with rosemary bushes, and orange and palm trees. It's named Bahia not after the religion, but rather the king's favorite wife (he had four, as well as two dozen concubines). Bahia was his favorite because she was the first to produce a son. Every room in the palace has wood ceilings. The stucco and Lebanese cedar wood is beautifully carved. Natural dyes were used for color: mint for green, poppies for red, indigo for blue, and saffron for yellow. Palais El Bahia; open daily, 9am-3pm, 10 MAD ($1.16).

Saadian Tombs: For more history, check out the Saadian tombs. They date from 1578, during the reign of the great sultan Ahmad I al-Mansur. In 1917 they were discovered and restored, and have since become a major attraction. There are two main mausoleums (men and women are buried separately). Ahmad I al-Mansur and his family are buried here, along with the remains of 60 or so members of the Saadi Dynasty. The saddest part about visiting this place is seeing all the stray cats. Many are malnourished, and all have cataracts. Someone needs to send a vet ASAP. Open daily, 8:30-11:45am, and 2:30-5:45pm Cost: 10 MAD ($1.16).

The Menara Gardens: The Menara Gardens are actually large irrigation channels dating back to the 12th century. They look like a pond built around a pavilion, where visitors love to stroll and street hawkers love to hawk. At the far end and down the stairs, you will find orchards and olive groves. The gardens are free, and open from 8am-6pm. The highlight of the Menara Gardens is seeing camels grazing out in the fields. They are available for rides, or just getting on for a two-minute photo op (20 MAD = $2.33).

Jemaa El Fna Square: The biggest attraction in Marrakech is the Jemaâ El Fna (also called Djemaa el Fna). This is a square and market in Marrakech's medina quarter (old city). It's a trip, with a totally different feel at night from the day. I prefer nighttime: It's more mysterious and crowded, and the snake charmers aren't out. During the day these out-of-their-mind snake charmers go right up to passersby, and try to put a water snake around their necks. I'm not a big fan of these creatures, so the dude who attempted it twice really pissed me off (difficult to do). I walked away from him, but wanted to take a picture of the insane guys charming the cobras.

The Streets

After snapping a picture of the cobra charmer, the water snake guy put his hand over my camera and demanded money for taking a pic of his colleague. It is customary to tip performers. The main attractions (besides the snake charmers) are fortunetellers, male dancers (females are not allowed), dentists (the man will pull out your sore tooth with pliers but no novocaine), women applying henna tattoos, traditional water sellers in colorful costumes with leather water bags and brass cups (I don't think they even sell water -- and if they do I wouldn't drink it), and people with chained monkeys. The key is to take pictures first, then pay them; otherwise they charge you by the photo.

All kinds of street food is available at night in the square: dried fruit, nuts, spices, seafood, goat heads (yes, goat heads), meat, escargot, and my favorite, orange juice. Everyone is very friendly, and you don't need to tip them to take their picture (be sure to ask first). The orange juice was the best I've ever had. It's served in a tall glass (to be enjoyed in front of the vendor's stand) for only 3MAD (35 cents). Is that incredible? Open till 3am (1am in winter).

The Marrakech Souk

Next to Jemaâ El Fna Square is the Marrakech souk (traditional North African markets serving both locals and tourists). The narrow streets are lined with shops, lead into alleys of the medina quarter filled with stall after stall. The place is packed. You could get run over by people riding scooters, taking their mules through, sometimes even cars. You can buy everything from fine cookies, antiques, magnets, pottery, shoes and shirts to spices, tea sets, key chains, fezzes and toys.

Moroccans are friendly, and don't really hassle visitors. However, once you walk into a Marrakech store they can become aggressive salesmen. The key is to be friendly, smile, and always barter. Haggling is expected, and is seen as a game (thought not at food stalls). A good rule is: If the starting price is 100, offer 30, then settle on 40 to 60. You have to be prepared to walk away, and let them know it. Usually after a few steps they will come get you, and meet your reasonable price. If they agree to your price, it's rude not to complete the purchase. TIP: A government-operated store with fixed rates (no bargaining) called Ensemble Artisans is located on Muhammed V Avenue. This is a good place to do some initial research before shopping at the souk.

I couldn't leave without buying a rug. My guide Said took me to Chateau des Souks (44, Souk Semmarine, Marrakech; tel. +212/24-42-64-10), one of his friends' shops inside the souk. (Tour guides get commissions for bringing shoppers somewhere. I have no problem with that as long as we are not charged more, the prices are fair and the quality is good.) This place has over 10,000 rugs, and they rolled out the carpet -- literally -- for me and my friends. We were greeted like all potential customers, with cookies and tea. The owner must have showed us 30 rugs. He taught us everything we needed to know, and more. One thing he said: The French buy quantity, while Americans buy quality (I'm sure they tell the French customers the opposite). Arabian rugs have fringes on both ends, while Berber rugs have them at just one end. The rug I bought goes for 6,000 MAD ($725). It was made in the High Atlas mountains by the Akhnij tribe, and took around three months to make. I also learned that silk is not produced in Morocco; rather, it is brought in by Hungarians. Shipping a rug to a U.S. airport costs about $250; if it goes to your house, figure $400. Delivery to your Marrakech hotel is free. My rug is 8 by 5 feet, but these guys rolled and sewed up the package so small and tight that it fit in my carry-on.

John E. DiScala (aka Johnny Jet), is the founder of www.johnnyjet.com, the ultimate travel website and weekly newsletter. He logs over 150,000 miles a year, has been featured in over 850 articles (including Frommers.com, USA Today, Time, Fortune, the New York Times, CNBC and MSNBC), and has published the book, You Are Here Traveling With JohnnyJet.com.