Where's Johnny Jet? Exploring Restaurants and Riads in Fez

Last week we left off in Marrakech and this week we travel to Fez. This place has a totally different feel from Marrakech, as you will see from the scenery, food and locals. Fez is an attack on the senses -- in a good way.

March 1, 2007

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Saha wa'afiab ("Cheers") from Morocco. Last week we left off in Marrakech (here's the link); this week we travel to Fez (or Fès, as it's spelled in French). This place has a totally different feel from Marrakech, as you will see from the scenery, food and locals. Fez is an attack on the senses -- in a good way. And the famous Fez medina . . . well, it feels as if you're in an Indiana Jones movie, though without being chased. What are you waiting for? The riads have all been cleaned, and the tagines are in the oven.

Getting from Marrakech to Fez

There are no nonstop flights between Marrakech and Fez, so travelers must either drive seven and a half hours, take a seven- to nine-hour train ride, or do what I did: Fly 25 minutes to Casablanca, switch planes and fly 28 more minutes to Fez. The flights are short, but the layovers can be long. Mine was four hours. I spent the time in the Royal Air Maroc business class lounge, enjoying complimentary snacks, drinks and wireless Internet. The good news is that Royal Air Maroc (tel. 800/344-6726; www.royalairmaroc.com) doesn't fly those small, rinky-dink puddle jumpers that I despise. Instead, they use Boeing 737-800s. Domestic fares start around US$75 one-way.

Marrakech to Fez

I got up before the sun, drove 10 minutes to the Marrakech Airport and got in line. The place was packed at 5:30am. There were a bunch of early morning flights to destinations like Paris, London, Milan -- it was so early, I can't remember the rest. I do know that check-in was slow, security was quick, and no one (including myself) was searched, or told to take out their laptops or remove their shoes. The flight from Casablanca to Fez had fewer than two dozen passengers, so everyone who wanted one could have their own row. I had no idea what to expect from Fez, because I did not have a chance to read my guidebook in advance, so the excitement started during the descent. Looking out the window at the picturesque countryside -- including the snow-capped Atlas Mountains -- was a beautiful thing.

Tour Guide

Said, our tour guide (I wrote about him when I first arrived), met us at the airport. However, he had the flu and could not finish the tour. My group (I was on a Moroccan government-sponsored trip) decided we did not need a replacement, because our official chaperone was a native of Fez. Marrakchi Benjaafar worked in the tourism department in Rabat, Morocco's capital. He's a fun and smart guy who loves life, and worships his hometown. Those are great qualities for a guide as he shows you the ins and outs. He made sure this was not a normal Fez tour. The highlight came when Marrakchi showed us how the locals live, by dropping in at his cousin's house at a moment's notice. The family could not have been more hospitable. They showed us around their beautiful home, and offered us homemade cookies and tea. The treats were great -- and she's not even a professional baker.

Fez

Fez is the third largest city in Morocco (behind Casablanca and Rabat), with a population of almost a million people. The city is divided into three parts. Ville Nouvelle, the newest section of Fez, was created by the French as an administrative center at the beginning of last century. Fez-Jdid is called "the new Fez" because it was founded by the Marinids in 1276 (yes, that makes it "new"). Fez el Bali is the old walled city, and the most important section. Fez el Bali has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is a place you must see because it includes the most interesting heritage sites, as well as the medina. Fez has too long a history to get into here, but three things everything should know are: It was founded in the 9th century, it has the oldest university (El Karayouine) in the world, and it became part of the Moroccan Empire in 1548. At various times Fez served as the capital of Morocco -- most recently in 1912. The night weather in Fez was 10 degrees cooler than in Marrakech. It dropped to 35F degrees, while the highs hovered near 70F.

Hotel Jnan Palace

It took 20 minutes to drive from the airport to the Jnan Palace Hotel. It was in a residential area with streets that looked like suburban New York. The hotel is listed as 5 stars, but I would rate it 3.5. It was a bit tacky, and the rooms had an upscale Holiday Inn feel -- very basic, with thin walls. Even the breakfast buffet, which was included in the daily rate, was not particularly good with the exception of the crepes. (I found a deal, accommodations plus breakfast, for $193 per night on TravelNow.com).

After visiting the old city, I realized we were in the Westchester County of New York, because the hotel was 15 minutes away from Fez el Bali, where all the action is. The good news is that taxis are cheap: a 15-minute ride costs only MAD 20 ($2.35). The few things I liked about the Jnan Palace were the marble floors, stairwells and bathrooms. They have a nice gym, a good-looking outdoor pool and free wireless (available only in the lobby). Unless you are with a huge tour group or attending a convention (those seemed to account for the typical guests), you should stay at one of the places below. Jnan Palace Hotel, Ave Ahmed Chaouki; tel. 212/35-65-22-30.

Where You Want to Stay

If you don't mind spending $240 and up a night, check into Sofitel's Palais Jamai. This fine Moorish-style palace, built in 1879, was the residence of the Grand Vizier of Jamaï. Featuring 123 rooms and 19 suites, it is Fez' most luxurious hotel. In fact, one suite was on the cover of last month's Condé Nast Traveler. The hotel is located on a hill overlooking Fez' three valleys, and the service and security are excellent. Just walking through the hotel's dark hallways and seeing the stained glass windows illuminate was too cool. For lunch I had an outstanding indoor/outdoor buffet barbeque out on the large veranda next to the manicured grounds and gardens that overlooked the pool and the white tops of the century-old buildings of Fez el Bali. At times it felt like I was dreaming. If you notice thick black smoke in the distance of the pictures or video, don't worry -- they're just pottery manufacturers. Sofitel's Palais Jamai, Bab Guissa, Fez; tel. 212/35-63-43-31.

Riads Where You Can Sleep and/or Dine

A great alternative to an international hotel is a riad. I wrote about them last week, explaining that they are found in traditional buildings, usually old homes built around courtyards with fountains and fruit trees. Below are a few that I visited, and highly recommend.

If I come back to Fez I will be sure to spend a night or two at Riad Sheherazade. The fifth-generation Moroccan architect/owner sounds and dresses French. He and his wife (she designed the place) have done an incredible job restoring this 4-year-old swank riad that has a boutique feel. The interior materials are all natural; the ceilings are dyed with vegetable oil, and the rooms have silk furnishings and non-allergic Angora blankets. There's no reason to hang artwork on the walls of any riad, because the intricate designs are so amazing. Walking into Riad Sheherazade from the bustling medina -- just steps away -- feels like an oasis. The courtyard is surrounded by 50-foot high walls and tall palm trees, and contains a pool. Thirteen rooms are available now, but the owners just bought the building next door and will soon expand to 27. Everyone seems so calm as they lounge around drinking homemade wine or sweet Moroccan tea. The best part about this place are the traditional Fez dishes, like candy carrots, chickpeas and quail couscous with cooked fruit. In fact, that couscous dish is now on my Top 10 travel dishes of all time. Nightly rates begin around MAD 2,000 ($157) per night. Riyad Sheherazade, 23 Arsat Bennis Douh; tel. 212/35-74-16-42.

If I had brought someone special with me, I would have spent the night -- or at least had dinner -- at La Maison Bleue. Considered one of the most romantic hotels in the world, it too is located just steps from the medina. The dimly lit marble entrance, with hurricane lamps positioned on every other step, sets the mood. It's been operated by the same family for over 100 years, and I was fortunate to have dinner in one of the semi-private rooms while watching gnawa musicians play and dance to North African songs. Dinner is not cheap, but the service is excellent and you won't forget it. For $65 a person you get all the wine you can drink. Meals begin with an army of tapas, couscous, bread, and then the Moroccan staple I ate a lot of: tajine. A tajine is a Moroccan stew cooked in a ceramic bowl, usually with peas, potatoes, lemons and olives. It can also include lamb, chicken or other food. Tajine is also the name of the unique pot these dishes are cooked in. La Maison Bleue, 33 Derb el Miter, Ain Azliten, Fez; tel. 212/35- 74-18-39.

Dar El Ghalia is another restaurant/guesthouse you don't want to miss. For MAD 1,500 ($177 USD) a night you can sleep in one of 13 rooms in this 18th-century palace originally built for a wealthy merchant. At night the owners close the roof to keep the heat in; meanwhile, guests enjoy pre-dinner drinks (I had more of that delicious sweet tea) in the courtyard as the house guitarist lightly strums. The dining room is casual, yet set so beautifully that after dinner I went out and bought the same tablecloth in the medina (I purchased it at Haja El Khalfaoui Fatima, 199 Talaa Kabira; tel. 212/35-63-49-88). For starters a variety of salads were served. Then came dish after dish of lamb tajine, roast chicken with a Moroccan egg noodle, and a pile of plain couscous that did not taste plain at all. I was so full I couldn't even have dessert or smoke apple tobacco from a traditional hookah pipe; in fact, all I could do was rub my Buddha belly. This feast -- and all the wine you can drink -- costs US$55 a person. My notes say this is not a good place for single women to stay. I can't remember why, but I thought I should mention it. Dar El Ghalia; tel. 212/35-63-41-67.

About the Medina

Despite my experiences, meals need not be expensive. You can find plenty of good places to eat, including delicious and ridiculously cheap street food in the medina. In fact, the medina is a must-see, and probably the reason you want to come here in the first place. These days not many places make Americans feel like they're outside the United States, but Morocco is definitely one of them. And there's no place in the U.S. that will remind you of the Fez medina -- except maybe on your television screen with an Indiana Jones DVD, or Disney's Epcot Center with its replica of the famous Bab Boujouloud gate. The medina is massive and wild -- completely different from Marrakech's. This one is not only a lot bigger (over a mile long), but there are far fewer tourists. Instead of worrying about mopeds running you over, you're on the lookout for mules. There are a lot of them, and it's a challenge getting out of their way. They move quickly, and the alleys are very narrow, dark and intricate, with many confusing lanes. You'll definitely need a guide, unless you don't mind getting lost. If you do venture out by yourself, be sure to carry the address where you're staying (written in both French and Arabic), in case you need help finding your way back. Virtually all signs in the medina are in Arabic, so don't plan on finding a street address.

Quick Arabic Lesson

The only Arabic I learned was shukran ("thank you") and balek, which means "attention." You hear this just before you're about to be run over by a donkey.

Inside the Medina

Entering the medina from the Bab Boujouloud gate just after sundown, watching the full moon slowly rise, made me feel like I was on a movie set. It was surreal. But I quickly began moving through the crowded medina. It has everything you could possibly imagine, including all kinds of food: dates, fruits, vegetables, candy, donuts, cheese, seafood, meat-- even camel meat. Yes, I spotted a freshly killed camel's head hanging on the wall. Then I walked past a stall with over 50 chickens in cages. When I saw a bloody sink, and a customer point to one of the chickens, I knew it was time to pick up the pace. (A fresh 2.2-pound chicken cost MAD 17). There are also plenty of souvenirs, plus items like pottery, carpets, leather bags, antiques, tiles, silver -- you name it.

For a Great View

It's mind boggling to see how vast the medina really is. A good place for an overview is at Borj Sud. There's a post office up here, but more importantly a great view of Fez El-Bali.

Where You Don't Have to Bargain

I mentioned last week a store in Marrakech with government-controlled prices. There is a similar (or same) one in Fez, and it's a good place to stop before shopping in the medina. You can get an idea of how much things cost before you start bargaining in the medina (which is expected). For tips on how to bargain, see last week's newsletter. The Fez government-controlled store is called Cocopraf. It's on Ensemble Artisanal -- Boite Postal 31, Fez; the telephone number is 055-62-10-07.

Is It Safe?

Unlike Marrakech, the vendors in Fez are not aggressive at all -- not even when potential customers walk into their shop or in front of their stall. They are all very laid back and friendly. The only person I found not like that was a 14-year-old who did not stop bugging me to go to his family's restaurant. He followed me quite a ways; it was the only time I felt unsafe. I was alone in a remote, quiet part of the medina, with no tourists nearby. I heard him yell something in Arabic; the only word I could decipher was "American." I felt like everyone was looking at me. I got nervous, and hightailed it out. Maybe it was in my head, but I wasn't going to stick around to find out. Happily, an opposite encounter occurred earlier when I was walking around. A young girl came up and asked if she could have a pen. She was so cute that I couldn't refuse, even though the only one I had was not cheap. But it made her day -- and mine.

The first night after dinner I was told our group would have a security detail. I'm assuming word had gotten out that American journalists were touring Fez, and the Moroccan government made a precautionary move. I know we didn't need them, and sure enough the next day they were gone. But I don't think I ever felt more safer than the first night when we had three plainclothes and two uniformed police officers escorting us around with walky-talkies. It was kind of exciting -- but then again, so is Fez.

John E. DiScala (aka Johnny Jet), is the founder of www.johnnyjet.com, the ultimate travel website and weekly newsletter. He logs over 150,000 miles a year, has been featured in over 850 articles (including Frommers.com, USA Today, Time, Fortune, the New York Times, CNBC and MSNBC), and has published the book, You Are Here Traveling With JohnnyJet.com.

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