Where's Johnny Jet? Strolling the Beaches of Rio

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Bom dia (good morning) from Rio de Janeiro. We left off last week (here's the link) after a seven hour and forty minute flight to São Paulo (from Miami) and then a forty-minute hop to Rio. To say I was a bit nervous about arriving here would be an understatement. After all, everyone -- my friends, family, the media, Internet message boards, even the Brazilian gate agent before I boarded the plane -- put the fear of God into me. They all warned me to be very careful in Rio. I felt as though I were about to enter a war zone rather than a tropical vacation destination. If you want to find out if I got mugged or not, read on.

Brazilian Visa

Last week I failed to mention that while I was in L.A., I had to go down to the Brazilian Consulate and submit my forms and passport to obtain a Brazilian visa. All visitors to Brazil are required to get a visa. Huge negative. It needs to be done in person, costs US$100 for American citizens (payable only by post office money order) and can take up to ten days. This ordeal doesn't make it very easy or welcoming for Americans to visit Brazil. America started these strict rules long ago for Brazilians and Brazil reciprocated but fortunately, the Brazilians don't take it one step further as America does. Can you believe that the U.S. requires Brazilians to do an interview before entering the country? If I'd had to do that, I probably would've just said, "Forget it." and gone somewhere else, like Argentina. But I've already been to Argentina and I have always dreamt of visiting Brazil. FYI: Not all nationalities have to pay US$100 -- it varies. For example, Canadians are charged the equivalent of only US$40 while the Brits pay US$155.

These visa rules seem a little ridiculous plus, it's time consuming and costly. Can you believe that Kinko's charges $14 for a stupid 2x2 Polaroid mug shot that took all of two minutes? Next time a visa requires a picture, I'm buying my own Polaroid camera. The only good news is that the Brazilian Consulate in Los Angeles has a wonderful greeter who patiently and continuously informs each visitor with a smile and clear instructions on exactly what they need to do. On top of that, the lines moved quickly and I was in and out both times (drop-off and pick-up) within 15 minutes. Here's the link to the Brazilian Embassy to find the consulate closest to you. (Warning: the site is down about 50% of the time). If you live in or around L.A., here's the link. If you don't want to wait in line yourself, there are agencies that will apply for you but they do charge an additional fee. Usually, it's about $55 extra but it's money well spent, particularly if you're strapped for time.

Saftey and Security

As I mentioned earlier, everyone from my friends and family to the media, Internet message boards and even the Brazilian gate agent checking me in for my flight, put the fear of God in me about coming here to Rio. They confirmed to me that the worst four-letter word in the dictionary is indeed FEAR and because of them, I had a lot of it. Okay, I was still kind of a wuss before that; I'm also afraid of heights, snakes and getting my laptop stolen. But at least it didn't stop me from getting on the plane, because as you are about to see, that really would've been a mistake. Brazil is everything I imagined it to be and more.

The one positive thing to come out of all the negative hype is that it prepared me to leave most of my valuables at home. Not that I travel with many valuables, anyway. Come to think of it, I don't have any. But here's my one warning: If you're visiting Brazil, don't bring any jewelry (including wedding rings), don't walk around with lots of cash, or have your camera swinging from your neck. I heard all kinds of horror stories about how people got mugged during the day. I also read on TripAdvisor.com that cameras were stolen from deluxe hotel rooms. I don't leave home without my laptop and even though I'm staying at a 5-star hotel, I locked it up as if it had been left in the middle of a favela (Rio's squatter settlements that are notorious for poverty and violence). It's a good thing that I got a laptop lock from my good pal Kevin Coffee (A.K.A. "The Scholar of Thievery") who's always on Oprah. Excuse me a moment while I just pick up the name I dropped.

Brazil Basics

To lock you in on the 411: I'm here on a media trip and when I landed, I met the rest of the group (four other writers who I would be touring around with) at baggage claim, as well as our tour guide and bus driver. They all seemed very cool so that was a relief. Big sigh. When I stepped out of the Galeão International Airport (airport code: GIG) it was 11pm and the humidity was so thick, I felt as though I could almost float. But the high temperatures were welcoming; I would always rather be somewhere hot than cold. Here's a link to Rio's 10-day weather forecast.

Tour Guide

The ride to Copacabana Beach, where our hotel is located, was only 20 minutes. In heavy traffic, expect the ride to be about 40 minutes. Our guide, Bernardo Leão, knew we were exhausted but gave us a quick rundown of the city and country. First of all, Brazil is officially spelled Brasil. Why we in the English-speaking world don't spell it with an "s" is beyond me. The official language here is Portuguese. That's because the Portuguese were the first European settlers to arrive in Brazil in the 1500s. Rio de Janeiro means River of January because it was first seen by Europeans on January 1st, 1502 and Guanabara Bay which surrounds Rio was actually thought to be the mouth of a major river. (Here's a link for more on Brazil's history.) There are lots more fascinating facts, at least to me. For instance, I didn't realize that Brazil is the fifth largest country in the world in terms of land mass (3,265,075 sq miles) and population (186,112,800). FYI: Rio' population is 8 million, which makes it Brazil's second largest city after São Paulo. Rio used to be the capital but in 1960, it was moved to Brasília, located in the center of the country. I also didn't know that Brazil has ten countries touching its borders (here's a map) and that Brazil is the largest Roman Catholic country in the world (74% of the population here are Catholic). For more geography trivia, click here. If you want to hire Bernardo as your guide (here's a scan of his business card), his rates are just US$20 an hour (for a minimum of three hours) and that's not per person but rather per tour so he's very reasonable. Oh yeah, and the guy is brilliant -- he speaks seven languages fluently.

Money

The first thing I did after clearing customs (and you should, too) is hit the ATM machine. Note: I couldn't find any in the São Paulo terminal. Brazilian currency is called Real (BRL) and 1 BRL = US$0.49. So if you withdraw US$100, it's the equivalent of 203 BRL. Basically, that means everything in Brazil is half-off, which makes it my kind of country.

Accommodations

All the way at the far end of Copacabana Beach (2.5 miles long) in an ideal location, is the 355-room Sofitel Rio de Janeiro. It's listed as a 5-star property and is considered one of the most prestigious hotels in Rio. I didn't know what to expect since the reviews on TripAdvisor were mostly negative, but when I walked into the plush, contemporary marble lobby, I liked what I saw. My room was sweet. It had a flat screen TV, DVD player, a glass desk, wireless Internet (20 BRL for 24 hours), a balcony, a very comfortable bed that Sofitel nicknamed "My Bed", a mini-bar, a safe (although oversized laptops won't fit) and a marble bathroom and a shower with a glass window and blinds so you can see the TV or better yet, the view of the Atlantic Ocean.

I couldn't understand why the TripAdvisor reviews were so bad but I found out when I took a tour of the hotel. It turns out that the hotel has recently spent $16 million renovating the top three floors (6, 7 and 8). The old rooms aren't nearly as nice and they won't be renovated until after the Pan American Games. The games are coming up in July and are a big deal in South America, kind of like the Olympics. All the rooms should be renovated by the end of 2008. Of course, the rooms are priced accordingly and the old rooms go for approximately US$190 while the new and improved ones are US$300. Some rates include breakfast, which is quite good with plenty of fresh fruit, baked breads, and your typical American breakfast buffet. If you eat on the outdoor patio, you'll be treated to spectacular views of the world-famous Copacabana Beach. If you have access to the club lounge the food, juice, pastries, service and views are even better. For fine dining, the hotel has a French restaurant called Le Pre Catelan. It is regarded as one of the best restaurants in Rio and it's not cheap. However, if you're celebrating a special occasion and want to experience some fine French cuisine, excellent service and a modern decor, then swing down to the second floor. If you eat too much (like me) then mosey on down to hotel's state-of-the-art fitness center or one its two pools to swim some laps. Sofitel Rio de Janeiro, Avenida Atlantica, 4240, Copacabana, tel. +55 21/2525-1232.

Copacabana Palace

Though the Sofitel might be the most prestigious hotel in Copacabana, the Copacabana Palace is definitely the most famous, not only in Copacabana Beach or Rio but in all of South America. It was built in 1923 and practically every celebrity or dignitary who has visited Brazil has stayed here. They even have a wall of headshots to prove it. The hotel is located in the middle of the horseshoe curve of Copacabana Beach (about a mile walk from the Sofitel or a US$4 taxi ride). The 222 rooms are large with high ceilings and come with a unique amenity; a pair of colorful flip-flops. I took a tour of the hotel when I had dinner in one of the hotel's two restaurants. The Cipriani Restaurant serves exquisite and expensive Italian food and is known as one of the top restaurants in the city. But I ate at the more casual (and affordable) Pergula Restaurant, which is situated poolside and serves traditional Brazilian dishes. However, the hotel wasn't for me because the place was filled with Americans, which completely turned me off. Don't get me wrong; I'm proud to be an American but when I am out of the country, I want to feel like I am out of the country and hanging out with loud Americans is not my idea of being away. Copacabana Palace, Avenida Atlántica 1702; tel. +55 21/2548-7070.

Live Like a Local

If you want to live like a Carioca, a resident of Rio, there's a new booking service called Cama e Café (which means "bed and breakfast"). This service matches travelers up with one of 50 homeowners who rent out one or two (but no more than three) rooms in the artsy, hilltop neighborhood of Santa Teresa. The most fun and cheapest ($0.60) way to get up to this historic and charming town is to take the bonde ? an old tram that cruises through the windy streets that are filled with unusual gift shops and quaint restaurants. Cama e Café offers four ranges of accommodations: Economic (90 BRL for a couple or 70 BRL for a single), Tourist Class with A/C and private bath (125 BRL for a double, 95 BRL for a single), Superior which comes with Internet and TV (180 BRL for a double, 140 BRL for a single) and Premium (220 BRL for a couple, 180 BRL for a single). All options offer travelers a clean house and breakfast. I toured four of them and they looked good to me. My favorite was a superior home of an artist named Ana Duraes, who showed us her paintings as well as her cozy house. Long-term rates are available and monthly rentals begin at approximately 1,000 BRL ($495). NOTE: During New Year's and Carnival, rates double, which is not bad considering that the rates at most hotels can rise up to five times the usual cost. Cama e Café, tel. 55 21/2224-5689; CamaeCafe.com.br.

Famous Beaches

When you think of Rio de Janeiro, you probably think of three things: crime, the Christ statue and the beach. Rio has 45 miles of white sand beaches and Copacabana and Ipanema Beaches are the most famous. Of course, I had heard of them but I never really knew what they were all about or even what they looked like. Copacabana is the more "touristy" of the two beaches, even though they are practically connected. The Sofitel is ideally located because it's just a six-block walk to Ipanema Beach (which I personally prefer to Copacabana; it's more hip and the locals are friendlier.) Both beaches have long sidewalks where many Cariocas are busy exercising (even at 6am) in their little bathing suits. Warning: All the men wear banana hammocks but somehow, still manage to look cool. The sidewalks are lined with creative sand castles (which cost $1 to photograph), the occasional fast-food eatery (have you ever seen a smaller McDonald's), corn on the cob vendors, and tasty juice bars. Bottled water and fresh coconut water (água de coco) cost just 2 BRL ($1). After a game of volleyball in the hot sun, there's nothing like drinking out of one of these heavy, fresh, young coconuts filled naturally with carbohydrate-electrolytes.

Volleyball: Brazilian Style

I can't mention the Rio beaches without mentioning volleyball or futevolei ? that's volleyball without using your hands. What?. It's mind boggling to see how athletic these guys are (old and young). I didn't even bother trying to make a fool of myself so instead I stuck to two-man volleyball. I played on both Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. On Ipanema, the locals were friendlier, even though there were a bunch of European pros training for the upcoming FIVB year. I'm happy to report that I surprisingly represented Manhattan Beach, California (the volleyball capital of the world and where I live) well. The Brazilians are damn good but they play by the FIVB rules, not the AVP rules, which is what I am used to. Therefore, here it's a version of "picnic ball" as they sometimes throw the ball, which is against the rules in California.

If exercising in the hot sun isn't your thing, don't worry -- all the big hotels (including the Sofitel) have beach chairs available (free of charge) complete with security and masseuses nearby. All you have to do is just lay out there, read your book and fend off the friendly street-hawkers. They stroll the beaches and sidewalks, selling everything from bikinis to shrimp on a skewer.

Other Beaches

To escape the tourists, head out to these local beaches: Prainha, Recreio dos Bandeirantes, Barra da Tijuca (my favorite) and Leblon (next to Ipanema). Inexpensive bus service is available and as you ride along the coast, be sure to look out to your right and see the Sinless Motel. What a name, eh? The motel (and many others like it) rents rooms by the hour. That's because the majority of young people in Brazil live with their parents until they get married.

Note: This trip was sponsored by the Rio Convention & Visitors Bureau.

John E. DiScala (aka Johnny Jet), is the founder of www.johnnyjet.com, the ultimate travel website and weekly newsletter. He logs over 150,000 miles a year, has been featured in over 850 articles (including Frommers.com, USA Today, Time, Fortune, the New York Times, CNBC and MSNBC), and has published the book, You Are Here Traveling With JohnnyJet.com.

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