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Where's Johnny Jet? Taking in the London Theater Scene



By Johnny Jet
JohnnyJet.com

May 10, 2007

Key: Bold links open pictures in a separate browser window, while regular hyperlinks open websites.

Good news. My dad is doing much better after his bypass surgery, and this week I'm taking you to Europe. For a peek at my experience flying coach on British Airways, checking in to a marvelous London boutique hotel and scoring front and center tickets for Wicked, join me on our journey from Erie, PA to Los Angeles, then over to London. I know it's not the most direct route, but as you will see there's a method to my madness.

Saving Money by Going Through the UK

If you're traveling to a destination in Europe, Africa or Asia that does not have nonstop service, consider buying two separate tickets, instead of one direct ticket. Going through London or Ireland can save you hundreds, even thousands of dollars. For example, last year when I flew to Sardinia I bought a round-trip ticket from New York to London. I then purchased a separate ticket on easyJet (one of Europe's most popular low-fare carriers). That trick saved me over $1,500. Just be sure to leave plenty of time in between flights (preferably a day), because many low-fare carriers depart out of alternate airports. And pack lightly -- they charge for baggage.

British Airways

A friend of mine was on one of British Airways' three flights from LAX to London the same day I was. He was bummed he couldn't select a seat until 24 hours prior to departure. I thought that was weird, because I got mine just after the ticket was purchased (a month earlier). I had plenty of choices, and snatched the best seat in economy by following the advice of www.seatguru.com. I assume I could select my seat because I'm a platinum member on American Airlines (a BA partner). Unfortunately, that was about the only perk I had. BA does not give AAdvantage miles, which meant I missed out on 10,000 of them (ouch!).

Checked Baggage on BA

British Airways made big news a few months ago by announcing a charge of £120 ($240) per bag, or £84 ($167) if passengers paid online for their second piece of checked luggage on long-haul flights. Fortunately, the new rule does not affect passengers traveling between the UK and the Americas. First and Club World (business class) passengers can check three bags, while World Traveller Plus (premium economy) and World Traveller (coach) passengers can check two bags for free. The maximum dimension (height plus weight plus length) per bag is 158 cm (62 inches); maximum weight per bag is 23 kg (51 pounds). For more info on BA's bag policy, click here.

LAX

Check-in at BA was quick, and the agent was friendly. Because I was checking a bag, I had to go to a TSA checkpoint to screen it. I'm still not clear why passengers at some airports have to lug their bags and wait in a whole other line, while at others they don't. Even at some other LAX terminals, passengers don't have to do this -- they just hand their bag to the airline agent and go on their way. It doesn't make sense, and it adds another chore to an already unpleasant airport experience. Keep in mind this is not the regular security line (a whole other subject). However, while I was waiting I did spot one of the oddest and funniest flights on the departure board. Take a look at this picture. The last flight listed is China Air. The flight number is 007, and the destination is "Unknown." How bizarre is that? I don't think I want to be on that flight.

Carry-on Baggage

My flight was scheduled for a 6:20pm departure, but we were delayed and did not take off until 7:40. BA boards by row numbers. I was in row 28 -- one of the first rows in coach -- so I was the last to get on. The kind flight attendant helped me find space for my laptop bag, and I took my bulkhead exit row seat. Keep in mind that BA has strict carry-on rules. Passengers traveling from, or transferring in the UK, may only take ONE piece of hand baggage. Maximum dimensions are 56 cm (22 inches) x 45 cm (17.72 inches) x 25 cm (9.843 inches).

BA Takes Safety Seriously

I had plenty of leg room, but my seat width was very tight and the armrest did not go up. All the seats came with comfortable headrests which could be bent on either side, making them feel like travel neck pillows. Each seat also featured an 8-inch individual monitor with movies, music, games and map tracking. The BA flight attendants were very serious about the safety video. They spread themselves throughout the jumbo 747, and made sure no one was talking while it was shown. The overhead compartment near me did not lock properly, so the FAs took out all the bags and moved them to another bin. Did you know that carry-on bags injure more than 4,000 people each year? But BA's emphasis on safety did not stop there. One of the flight attendants was seriously the meanest around. But it was entertaining to watch as she downright yelled at passengers who tried to get up and use the loo while the seatbelt sign was still illuminated.

LA to London

Seat 28H would have been just perfect if the audio on the entertainment system worked properly (I had to hold my plug halfway out so I could hear the movie), and if I had not had a grouchy old English lady behind me. After takeoff, when the pilot told us to sit back and relax, I reclined a quarter of the way. The woman complained to a flight attendant, who replied, "We can't ask them to move the seat up except during meal service." To be courteous, I brought my seat back up. Economy must be very tight on BA, because this woman was petite -- maybe 5' 3" -- yet she kept pushing my seat back, even when it was in the upright position. I felt like I was being beaten up. After the fifth time I turned around and gave her a look like "what the heck is your problem?" Her husband then asked me to move it up. I said it was. I stood up and demonstrated that it could not go up any further. They gave me angry looks, like it was my fault. After dinner, the FAs shut all the shades for the 9-hour, 35-minute flight. When I returned from the bathroom I noticed my grumpy seatmates had their seats reclined and were asleep, so I did the same. I slept for a few hours, until you-know-who woke up and began pushing again. She put her knees into my back like I was a criminal.

Food on BA: An hour after takeoff, the flight attendants came through the cabin with food and drink carts. Dinner choices were braised beef and chicken risotto. When the passenger next to me asked which one was better, the FA said with a smile, "It's airplane food. Though they look different, they both taste the same."

Getting to Central London from Heathrow

Customs was surprisingly quick at Heathrow, but baggage claim wasn't. To travel between Heathrow airport and central London, I took the Heathrow Express train. It departs every 15 minutes, and takes only 15 minutes to reach Paddington Station. This is definitely the easiest and quickest way, but it's not the cheapest. It costs £15 ($30) for coach passengers, £24 ($48) for first class. First class is a waste, unless your company is footing the bill or you want a car all to yourself. If you want to take your time and save money, the tube (subway) departs every few minutes for £4.30 ($8.50). It takes almost an hour. LONDON CABBIES: I have never (and probably never will) take one of London's comfortable taxis between the airport and central. They're not only a rip (the cost is about $100); they also take close to an hour.

The Tube

From Paddington Station I transferred to the tube. It has a stop in the building, and is very easy to figure out (the English are quite friendly if you have trouble). If you are staying in the touristy areas and plan on taking the tube more than once a day, purchase a Travelcard for however many days you will be there. You most likely won't leave Zone 1 (here's a pdf file of the tube map ). A single ride on the tube costs £4 ($8), but a Day Travelcard (good until 4:30am) costs only £5 ($10). I needed to get to the Knightsbridge Station. It's right next to the world famous Harrods, which I love even though it's so damn expensive and crowded. I took the Circle Line to Earl's Court, switched to the Picadilly Line and went three stops to Knightsbridge. Total time was about 15 minutes, and it was easy -- but it was PACKED. I'm talking so crowded that I couldn't even move. I was glad I did not have a lot of luggage, and that I'm not claustrophobic. The following day I had to get back to Paddington Station. I was running late, so I took a taxi. That 10-minute ride cost me £11 ($22). What a rip.

Egerton House Hotel

Charming, thoughtful, intimate, relaxing, friendly, welcoming, and very English are the words I think of after spending the night at the Egerton House Hotel in Knightsbridge. What a hidden gem this 29-room hotel is. It's just four blocks from Harrods and the tube. This boutique hotel is down a lovely, quiet side street. It feels as if you are entering a friend's home. The staff is cheerful and eager to please. My room was on the top floor of the five-story brick town house that used to be a hostel. Those days are long gone. My room -- 31 -- was absolutely brilliant. It had a king-size bed, a monster-size plasma TV, a desk with free internet, a drawer full of office supplies, an iPod Nano fully loaded, a variety of electric outlets so I didn't need an adapter, and complimentary bottles of spring water bedside. Inside the marble bathroom was another flat screen waterproof telly (as the bellman pronounced it). The shower had full-throttle water pressure; there were also designer toiletries, heated towel racks, a cool night light and fluffy robes. The night maid -- a woman from Lithuania -- was very nice and thorough, as she cleaned my room without disturbing me. She made it into a love palace, turning the bed down and lighting a candle in the tub. The only problem was, I was all by myself -- what a bummer.

Breakfast can be enjoyed in the dining room or the comfort of your room. I needed to be up early to catch a flight to ... I'll tell you next week), so I had it delivered to my room. Ordering room service is a good backup wake-up call in case the alarm doesn't go off. I had a great Belgian waffle brought promptly at 6:30am. It was 30 minutes before the kitchen officially opened, but the hotel tries to accommodate early departing guests as best they can. I was only in for a night so I did not get to enjoy my complimentary welcome drink, or witness the bartender make one of the best martinis in town. Rack rates begin at £235 ($470), but you can find cheaper prices online. Egerton House Hotel, Egerton Terrace, Knightsbridge, London; tel. +44/20-7589-2412.

Keithe Prowse

Before I left the States I ordered two tickets online to the play Wicked through www.keithprowse.com. These guys have sold tickets to the theatre, sports events, concerts and special events for more than 200 years. They started in London, but now have 36 offices in more than 20 countries. Besides selling tickets to attractions in each location, they package tickets with hotels and restaurants. Mine were not cheap, but when you want to see a certain performance front and center, they're the ones to go to. Going to the theatre is my favorite activity in London. It's the best place in the world to see plays and musicals; the theatres are all historic. If I had not had my heart set on getting good seats for Wicked, I would have gone down to Leicester Square and rolled the dice to find a discounted play. That's where theatregoers can find inexpensive tickets, though not every show is available and the seats might not be great. Many shops sell tickets, though none is more popular than TKTS (the same company as in Times Square).

Wicked

Thanks to Keith Prowse I had the best seats in London's Apollo Victoria Theatre. It was my first time seeing Wicked, a very entertaining musical that's fun for the whole family. Based on Gregory Maguire's best-selling novel, it's filled with wizardry and witchcraft. Wicked tells the story of an incredible friendship between two girls: the beautiful, blonde and popular Glinda, and the misunderstood green girl Elphaba, whose destiny is to become the Wicked Witch of the West. Click these links to read about the show and the cast.

Note: This trip was sponsored by the Egerton House Hotel, Heathrow Express & KeithProwse.com.

John E. DiScala (aka Johnny Jet), is the founder of www.johnnyjet.com, the ultimate travel website and weekly newsletter. He logs over 150,000 miles a year, has been featured in over 850 articles (including Frommers.com, USA Today, Time, Fortune, the New York Times, CNBC and MSNBC), and has published the book, You Are Here Traveling With JohnnyJet.com.

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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