Where's Johnny Jet? Still Falling in Love with Hong Kong

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Greetings from Hong Kong! Last week, we checked out the history of Hong Kong, the transportation and a couple of fine hotels including the world famous Peninsula. This week, we wrap things up with Hong Kong's fabulous restaurants, markets, massage parlours and major attractions including Victoria Peak and the Big Buddha. If you want to see why this city is so incredible and why I would consider living here, then grab your walking shoes and join me as we explore.

The World's Longest Elevator

The first thing I wanted to do when we arrived in Hong Kong was go up to the top of Victoria Peak. The view from up there is absolutely magnificent and it's one of the things I remembered most from my month-long trip back in 1993. Shortly after I left, I heard that the longest outdoor covered escalator system in the world (according to Guinness World Records) had been installed in the mid-levels (the area where I had stayed and where many ex-pats live). I wasn't quite sure how they operated and if they traveled all the way to the top of the peak. There are 20 escalators and three moving sidewalks that total 800 meters that go from the mid-levels to Central, which takes 20 minutes. They're free and the escalator runs daily downhill from 6am to 10am and uphill from 10:30am to midnight.

Victoria Peak

The best way to get to the top of the peak (552m) is obviously not by escalator but rather by the Peak Tram, a funicular railway. It's been around since 1888 and though it's quite steep at times, it's not scary at all, even if you're afraid of heights like me. TIP: Get on the right side of the tram, that has three seats for the best view; the two-seaters on the left don't have much of a view. There are two trams that operate every five to 10 minutes when it's busy from Central and it costs HK$22 (US$3) for a one-way ticket, HK$33 R/T ($4), or HK$48 ($6) that includes R/T and admission to the Sky Terrace. Huh? I had no idea what the Sky Terrace was so I passed but when I reached the top I realized I should have gotten the package deal rather than paying the HK$20 ($2.50) admission. At first, I felt like the people who control the peak had sold out BIG Time. It's completely different from what I remember. Instead of just a charming lookout point with a restaurant and wonderful hiking/walking trails, there are two huge shopping centers. Packed with so many tourists you can't walk at a steady pace.

Sky Terrace

The main attraction is the Sky Terrace and it requires at least six legs of escalators. They're not right next to one another so you have to walk around the stores to get to the next. As if that's not bad enough, there's a Burger King and a Bubba Gump and the windows have huge transparent stickers on them so you can't get a free view. The modern building is kind of cool, I guess and it's a smart business move so I suppose it's commercialism at its best. ThePeak.com

Pearl on the Park

The lines for the tram are long -- both coming and going. Both times I took it, I waited at least 25 minutes (a taxi costs HK$46 =$ 6 and took 15 minutes), so allow enough time to make any dinner reservations. You really should see the view from the peak both during the day and night. The latter is my favorite and for a real treat, book a corner table at Pearl on the Peak (website). They have floor-to-ceiling glass walls and the innovative modern restaurant serves international cuisine. It's run by an Australian, which explains why kangaroo and bay bugs are on the menu.

Peak Lookout Restaurant

The best part about the peak is still the hiking and walking trails, which of course offer free views. Afterwards, when you're all hot and sweaty, which you're sure to be, have lunch at the Peak Lookout Restaurant (website). The building has been there since 1901 but it opened as a restaurant in 1947. Natalie and I sat on the outside patio and ordered from the extensive menu, which offers all kinds of food from hamburgers and nachos to seafood. I had chicken tikka for HK$185 ($23) and a Sprite HK$40 ($5), which was expensive but you have to remember you're paying for the spectacular setting.

Hotel Jen

One of the newest hotels on Hong Kong Island is Hotel Jen. It opened in March so barely anyone I spoke to had heard of it -- even the top concierges. One way to solve the problem and get taxi directions is by identifying it as the old Novotel; then everyone says "Ah!" and nods in comprehension. Jen is actually the Chinese character which symbolizes the Confucian ideal of love and goodwill towards people and that's what the hotel aims to do. The best and worst part about the hotel is that it's in a local neighborhood. It's in the Western District, amidst the traditional shops and restaurants of the unique old Chiu Chow district. When you first pull up, it might look a little sketchy but it actually has a lot of character. The hotel has 280 rooms on 28 floors and the decor is very zen, very Asian and minimalist in style. Unlike all the other hotels Natalie and I stayed at, we weren't attacked by porters here. Instead, we had to lug our bags up and escalator to the front desk. Then the porter took over from there. The lobby was filled with Indians and after we got our room key, the bellman escorted us to our room. They key didn't work so we waited in the hot, 27th-floor hallway as he ran back down to get a new one.

My Room

I'll be honest: Waiting in that hallway, I really had a bad feeling about the place. But once we opened the door to the room ... wow! We were pleasantly surprised. The room was bright, clean, new, with so much light-colored wood, it could have been a showroom at IKEA. The flooring was laminate but it looked good. The bedroom with a tub was in the center of the square-shaped room with walls all the way around so it separated the living room, bathroom, kitchenette and hallways. There were two 32" and 26" LCD TVs with DVD players and MP3/audio player connectors and a desk with free wireless Internet but the connection was slow and kept cutting out. The floor above us had the Skylounge (drinks, breakfast for club members), pool and fitness center. Hotel Jen, 508 Queen's Road West; Western District; tel. 852/2974 1234.

Shangri-La Kowloon

For something completely different, try the Shangri-La Kowloon. Shangri-La has two hotels in Hong Kong and I hear the one on Hong Kong Island is outrageous. But the 700-room Shangri-La Kowloon is one of their originals. It's got a classic style and is a favorite amongst business travelers. When Natalie and I pulled up, the service was spectacular and it wasn't because we rolled up in a Rolls Royce from the Peninsula Hotel. Check-in was quick. We were in a good-sized, nicely decorated standard room. The bed was comfortable and the shower with stone floor worked well. The TV was a bit outdated but the room did have a 110V plug so I didn't need to go looking for my adapter. Broadband Internet cost HK$40 ($5) for an hour, and HK$120 ($15) for 24 hours. I also liked the fact that the rooms came with two big, free bottles of water and the breakfast buffet was quite tasty. The view of the harbor skyline was peaceful and when I woke up at 2am to use the loo, I noticed the only two signs still illuminated were for the MGM and Wynn Macau but by 3am, all had gone off and the city slept. Shangri-La Kowloon, 64 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong; tel. 852/2721 2111.

Tsim Sha Tsui

The Shangri-La is in the Tsim Sha Tsui East shopping and entertainment district. It's across the street from the harbor and is not far from the Star Ferry (just five minutes by taxi). One night, Natalie and I walked around looking for a restaurant -- the hotel actually had lots of choices but we were looking for something a little more local and inexpensive. This area must be Hong Kong's Little India because we saw so many Indian people but few Indian restaurants. We settled for a great, inexpensive Vietnamese place called Vietnam Rest that was quite popular with non-Westerners.

Junk Boat

The Hong Kong Tourism Board has a helpful website with lots of information and opportunities to enroll in classes and excursions, many of which are free. They all need to be reserved in advance so be sure to make reservations. We took a one-hour harbor cruise on the Duk Ling (website), which was built in 1955, restored in the 1980s and designed like a typical Chinese junk boat that used to crisscross Hong Kong's waterways 150 years ago. It operates on Saturdays and Thursdays and is worth the HK$50 ($6.40) per person. On a clear day, people scramble for the best seats, which are in the back on the top deck, along the railing. If it's sunny, bring lots of sunscreen and a hat otherwise you will get fried like me. Although the boat was much smaller than I thought and it looked like it was going to be a rough ride, that wasn't the case. For more information, check out dukling.com.hk.

Tea Class

Some of the free classes offered by the Hong Kong Tourism Board include Feng Shui and Tai Chi classes but since Natalie is a tea-lover, we chose the Chinese Tea Appreciation class. The class is located inside the Lock Cha Tea Shop in Hong Kong Park, a haven from the packed central sidewalks ... and for brides, we learned. Mr Ip, the regular instructor, wasn't available but his substitute did a fine job explaining that a cup of Chinese tea holds a great deal more than tea and water. If it wasn't for my A.D.D. I would have learned about the many varieties of tea, its proper preparation and tea-drinking etiquette. Classes are offered on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays between 4pm and 5pm. For more information, visit DiscoverHongKong.com.

Mandarin Oriental Spa

All of this sightseeing and attending classes made me tired. Fortunately, a friend of mine arranged spa treatments at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, which isn't far from Hong Kong Park. The Mandarin Oriental is one of Hong Kong's best hotels and the world's who's who stay here. Even if you aren't lucky enough to score a room, at least arrange for a appointment on their 24th-floor spa. It's brand new and decorated with dark woods. Guests are presented with signature ginger tea upon arrival and given slippers and a fancy amenity kit. I was escorted into the men's locker room that had fresh fruit, tea, a hot tub, cold plunge pool and one of the coolest steam rooms around. In the middle of it was a top secret blend of Chinese herbs. Sitting in the dark, hot, fragrant room (my nose detected cinnamon and orange), I couldn't but help notice the steam went on full blast and a bright green light shined on the herbs and it spun out of control; it was like a scene from an Indiana Jones movie. I didn't know if I should just relax and savor the experience or run for my life. A few minutes later, a beautiful Russian therapist fetched me for my hour treatment and I followed by her side like a lost puppy dog. My vocabulary isn't advanced enough to describe how incredible the experience was so my best advice is to sign up and experience it for yourself. Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong, tel. 852/2820 4202.

Tai Pan Reflexology

If you don't want to spend the big dollars at the Mandarin Oriental Spa or any of the other fine hotels, Hong Kong is filled with a ton of legitimate massage parlours. You'll find one on practically every block and in fact, one of my spa therapists at a fine hotel and a PR person, confessed they go all the time. An American ex-pat recommended Tai Pan Reflexology, which is off Nathan Road and a bit difficult to find at 10 o'clock at night. When Natalie and I went down the dark stairs, we both thought that the place looked kind of shady but once the door opened and we walked along a clear floorboards, covering a fish tank, our minds were put at ease. The place looked clean and there must have been 20 couches. There was no one in there but the clerk (who made us pay in advance), scrambled to get two workers to massage us; they looked like they had just woken up from a nap. We put our belongings in a locker and sat straight up in the most uncomfortable massage chairs to soak our feet in a tub without a plastic liner. Now, that's a little dicey. After the therapist washed our feet, they walked us over to one of the couches and we lay down. The couches were comfortable and after they put heat cushions around our necks and blankets over us, we were out cold. Before I fell into dreamland, I remember the therapist going to town on my feet (50 minutes of reflexology cost HK$238, a regular foot massage is HK$198). For all I know, the therapists could have taken a break or played cards, then come back at the very end. I woke up to some man beating my legs, then stretching me. I thought I was dreaming and that it was a bargain until we left and Natalie complained of itchy bug bites. They turned out to be bed bugs. YIKES! FYI: I didn't get any so I would go back.

Did You Know? In Hong Kong they use bamboo as scaffolding for skyscrapers that are under construction, even on buildings that are 100 stories high!

Zuma

An excellent new restaurant located on the fifth floor of the Landmark Mall and attached to one of the Mandarin Oriental hotels is Zuma. Inside is a huge space with lots of tables and a sushi bar but on a clear night, sit outside (if you don't mind people smoking around you). The food and service was top-notch and Natalie and I started off with fried edamame with chili sauce, veggie tempura, sweet potato teriyaki and finished with spicy beef tenderloin. The restaurant was filled mostly with ex-pats and the workers were mainly from Japan. Zuma, The Landmark, Queen's Road, Central, tel. 852/3657 6388.

Nobu

Another popular Japanese restaurant is Nobu. It was recently named one of the world's "Hot Tables" by Condé Nast Traveler and is located on the second floor in the InterContinental Hotel. Like all the Nobus around the world, it features the modern Japanese cuisine of world-famous chef Nobu Matsuhisa. What separates this place from the others is the view: it's outstanding. We had lunch there and sampled some of his signature dishes like sushi, Fresh Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno, Black Cod Saikyo Yaki, Toro Tartar with Caviar, Sashimi Salad with Matsuhisa Dressing and Rock Shrimp Tempura with Creamy Spicy Sauce. FYI: Along with Nobu, the InterContinental Hong Kong has another celebrity restaurant: SPOON by Alain Ducasse.

InterContinental Hong Kong

Speaking of the InterContinental Hong Kong, it's located on the Kowloon side and has an even better view of Victoria Harbour and the Hong Kong skyline than the Peninsula Hotel. That's because it's right on the harbor (no streets to cross) and I seriously could have just stayed in my room all day and night staring outside as it's one of the world's best harbor views ever -- it rivals Sydney). The 495-room hotel was a pleasant surprise as their service and facilities were all top-notch. The contemporary guest rooms feature LCD TVs, Bose DVD/CD home entertainment sound systems with iPod docking stations and high-speed Internet access. Business travelers who plan on eating breakfast, having late afternoon snacks (including tea) and spirits should think about upgrading to Club InterContinental for HK$900. It's on the second floor and like Nobu, the lobby has stunning views. In addition, you get complimentary local phone calls and high speed Internet.

The room was cozy. I slept well even though the bed was a bit firm for my liking and despite the fact that the king-sized bed might have been two mattresses pushed together. I loved the remote control blinds but didn't like hearing the maids in the hallway and the shower pressure wasn't that strong. The bathroom was made of Italian marble and had a large sunken tub, separate showers and Elemis toiletries. The service at the front desk is a little slow but the bellmen are quick. In fact, they are so good that when a bellman sees you coming, they ring the elevator button for you. No wonder this place made Condé Nast Traveler's list of Top Hotels in Asia and Travel + Leisure's list of the World's Best 500 Hotels. InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong; tel: 852/2721 1211.

Shopping Tour

Hong Kong gets 21 million visitors a year but like many of them, I wasn't there to shop. I seriously have never seen a place with more malls featuring all the top designers. I bet Luis Vuitton, Prada and Gucci each have at least five stores each in this city. For those really interested in shopping, check out the InterContinental "Born to Shop" tours of Hong Kong and Hanoi with author Suzy Gershman. The fifth annual tour takes place November 11-18, 2008. For more information, download this PDF.

Temple Street Night Market

Whether you're a shopper or not, the Temple Street night market is a must-visit just for the experience. It's located in Kowloon between the areas of Jordan and Yau Ma Tei just off Nathan Road. The market opens at 2pm but it doesn't come alive until after sunset. There you'll find all the typical night market offerings: t-shirts, clothes, souvenirs, trinkets, sunglasses and other accessories. In addition, there are fortune-tellers and impromptu Chinese opera performances. Natalie and I must have had our cheapest meal there and we ate in the middle of the street at a rickety plastic table, using plastic dishes and plastic chopsticks. We picked the busiest restaurant we could find which featured fresh seafood but we had chicken and pad thai. The funniest thing about it is that with all the expensive restaurants we dined at, Natalie said this was her most memorable.

Noodle Shop

More inexpensive food. A block or two down from Nathan Road, on a side street, we stumbled upon another great restaurant. It looked promising because it was 3pm and it was the one restaurant packed with locals. The menu was in both Chinese and English with pictures and it was the first time the food actually looked like the pictures. The best part was that it was so inexpensive. A large bowl of Shanghai noodle soup with dumplings cost HK$42. The restaurant is called Relax For A While and since they don't have a website, I scanned their card.

Olympic Events in Hong Kong

Did you know that the Olympics begin on August 8th, 2008 at 8pm in Beijing? The only event held outside of China's capital is the equestrian event, which will be held in Hong Kong. Here's more information.

Light Show

For the past four years, Hong Kong has been displaying the "World's Largest Permanent Light and Sound Show", granted this title by the Guinness World Records. It takes place every night at 8pm for about 20 minutes. It used to last longer but with all the environmental concerns, it's been cut down. A mere five minutes would be a delight and would suffice. I didn't think it was all that cool at first, probably because during our first few nights, the sky was hazy. But when it cleared up, it was quite entertaining watching laser beams and colored lights dance along the skyline's 44 buildings. The highlight is seeing IM Pei's building all lit up and the best vantage point is from a harbor cruise or in front of the Hong Kong Space Museum. For more information, visit Tourism.gov.hk/symphony.

Red Pepper

The one restaurant I remembered enjoying from 1993 was The Red Pepper (card scan). It's Szechuan so the food is spicy and has been a favorite of ex-pats since 1970. It's located in Causeway Bay (from Central: two stops by MTR HK$4, taxi HK$26, tram HK$2), is open for lunch and dinner and the service was ridiculously good. Every minute the waiters kept coming by to top off my tea (HK$8) to keep it warm. Also right when we sat down, they brought over three bowls: peanuts, spicy cabbage and pickled cucumbers -- they were all so good but we did get charged HK$36 ($TK) for them. We asked for bottled water and they brought out Panna (HK$30). We enjoyed chicken with cashews (HK$90), fried noodles (HK$85) and rice (HK$10). A little plastic pepper is the chopstick holder and it's a nice touch.

Tour Guide

If you're looking for a Hong Kong tour guide, I can highly recommend Joe Lee who was recommended to us by the Hong Kong Tourism Board. He's a lifelong Hong Kong resident and knows the city like the back of his hand. His prices vary depending on length and what you want to do but here's his contact info. He's also a travel agent so he can help you explore nearby cities and/or countries.

Repulse Bay

Just up the road (about a 20-minute taxi ride) is Repulse Bay and Stanley Market. They are in the Southern District of Hong Kong and both are considered must-visit locations. Repulse Bay was developed into a beach in 1910 and I took a walk down the beach with Joe and Natalie, admiring the sand, water and the famous apartment building with a hole. The hole is apparently good feng shui and allows the dragon (the hill is shaped like a dragon) to travel from the mountain to the water, without the obstruction of the building. At the southern end is the Tin Hau temple that has statues of two goddesses, Kwun Yum and Tin Hau and a bridge that if you walk over, will supposedly grant you three extra days to your life.

Stanley Market

Everyone's favorite open-air marketplace is Stanley Market. The bargains used to be more than they were in the '90s but they still offer significant savings in clothing, particularly silk garments and traditional Chinese dress. But they have jewelry, toys, souvenirs and Chinese arts and crafts. Stanley Market has gone commercial since the last time I was here. The first thing I noticed was a small Hagen-Dazs shop and built-up shops including a mall on the back end. There's also a new maritime museum that's housed in the old Murray House, which was once a government building in Central. They dismantled it in 1982 and stored the facade in a warehouse until it was moved to Stanley in 1999. I highly recommend the China House of Stanley for dim sum (here's their card scan).

Getting to the Big Buddha

I'd heard so much about the Big Buddha that I had to go out and visit it. The best way to get there from Central is by the MTR (HK$15.50 per person each way) to the Tung Center. It takes 30 minutes and then you can either take a 25-minute tram (HK$58 one way, HK$88 R/T) or a 45-minute bus ride. I'm afraid of heights and the tram was looking crazy scary to me and I was going to take the bus but people said that's even crazier as there are no guard rails and the drivers are out of control. To put the myths aside I tried both. Neither were that insane. The cable car was high and I had sweaty palms but I was glad I did it. The views of the Hong Kong Airport were outstanding, which helped take my mind off of it and we had a cool couple from New York in our 17 passenger car; it wasn't busy so they didn't pack us in like sardines. I took the bus down and there were guard rails and the driver did a fine job handling the winding roads.

Big Buddha

The Big Buddha is one of the five large Buddha statues in China and this one is the world's tallest outdoor seated Buddha. The bronze statue was completed in 1993 and is located on Lantau Island near Po Lin Monastery. To reach the 34-meter-tall Big Buddha requires 268 steps. There is no charge unless you want to enter the exhibition halls inside. Then it's HK$60 and includes a vegetarian meal. Wear a hat and lots of sunscreen; it was hot the day we were there!

Hong Kong Overall

I can't tell you how much I love Hong Kong; so much so that I am seriously thinking about living here in the fall for a few months, especially if you know who wins! The people are friendly, the place is clean, the food is incredible, the public transportation is amazing, the views are insane, it's easy to navigate and it's centrally located, just an hour or two from most South Asia countries. What's not to love?

Note: This trip was sponsored in part by Hong Kong Tourism, Hotel Jen, Pearl on the Peak, Shangri-La Kowloon, InterContinental Hong Kong, and the Mandarin Oriental.

Johnny Jet has been featured over 1,000 times in major publications, including USA Today, Time, Fortune and The New York Times, and has appeared on ABC, CBS, CNBC, MSNBC, NBC, FOX News Channel, and PBS. JohnnyJet.com has been named "one of the top best money-saving web sites for travel" by Budget Travel Magazine, while the L.A. Times calls it "one of the top 10 essential travel resources on the internet." In the May 2007 issue of Outside Magazine, Johnny Jet was touted for having one of the world's best "dream jobs". Every week Johnny hosts a "travel website of the week" for several radio stations around the country, he writes weekly for Frommers.com and he has written for USAToday, The Boston Herald and Coast Magazine. Sign up today for Johnny Jet's free weekly travel newsletter at www.johnnyjet.com.