Thank you for subscribing!
Got it! Thank you!

Visiting Abu Simbel, UNESCO's Mighty Save

In the 1960s and 1970s the High Dam at Aswan threatened to destroy history, but the UN stepped in to save the Great Temple of Abu Simbel. Thanks to its actions, you can still visit some glorious monuments.

There are still plenty of careless people who despise the United Nations, often "because it doesn't do anything." Aside from saving the lives of hundreds of thousands of children around the world, for instance, it has done much to protect the earth's cultural heritage for travelers to enjoy. Just a visit to Egypt's Abu Simbel is proof enough of that.

In the 1960s and 1970s, when the building of Egypt's mighty High Dam at Aswan threatened to inundate many ancient temples of historic value, the UN stepped in to help carve the immense Great Temple of Abu Simbel and adjoining, smaller, temple of Hathor, and move them 90 feet up from where the new water level of Lake Nasser would be. The main temple was cut into 2,000 giant pieces, weighing about 40,000 tons total, in order to move it safely. In fact, nearly two dozen temples throughout the region were relocated, the two at Abu Simbel being merely the most famous of them.

Getting There

Very near to the southern border of Egypt and near Sudan, Abu Simbel is best reached by a short flight from Aswan, lasting less than 30 minutes. It can also be visited by van or bus in about 3 hours each way. There are also boats from Aswan that take up to five days to make the round-trip, stopping at other smaller temples along the way. Since lodgings in Abu Simbel are mostly rudimentary, if you want to spend more time at the site you might want to opt for the air alternative, though the cruise can be restful.

If you decide to go by bus, which leaves Aswan around 3:30 or 4:30am (in order to catch the early sun at the temple and avoid the desert heat), check with the Aswan Tourist Office booth near the central rail station and make reservations there well in advance, or with a tour operator like Wings (see below). The buses and vans travel together in a military guarded convoy and take about three hours in each direction, easily covering the 143-mile distance. The journey back is very hot, so be sure to get an air-conditioned coach.

If you want to go by ship, make arrangements with a tour operator, your hotel concierge, or with the town tourist office.

Abu Simbel

Above the site is a newish Visitors Center, with food, drink, and restrooms, as well as security screening. You have to pass through it whether you arrive by boat, by bus, or directly from the airport. Admission to the two temples is 80 Egyptian pounds, about US$14. You then walk about half a mile to the temples themselves. Although your guide may urge you to take a shortcut, I recommend you follow the paved walkway (only slightly longer and much easier on the feet) for a more impressive first sighting of the main temple as you round a small headland along the lake.

The Great Temple of Abu Simbel

Built by Ramses II (ruled c.1279 to 1213 BCE), the Great Temple of Abu Simbel is one of the most stupendous monuments of ancient Egyptian architecture, and was dedicated not only to Amun-Ra, but to two other gods and Ramses himself. It is situated so that the sun's first morning rays penetrate into the innermost sanctum. Four colossi of Ramses II stand in front of the temple, each over 65 feet high. The largest room inside is the Great Hypostyle Hall, about 54 feet wide and 58 feet deep, with eight huge pillars supporting the roof. Here also are eight more statues of Ramses II and on the North Wall, a giant Great Battle Scene, perhaps the most detailed relief to be found anywhere in the entire Nile Valley.

The Temple of Queen Nefertari

To the right of the main temple as you face it is the smaller Temple of Hathor, known now as the Temple of Queen Nefertari , fronted by six tall statues about 33 feet high, representing Ramses II and his consort (also known as Nefretere), as well as smaller statues of the royal children. Each of the six taller figures is separated by buttresses from the others, and all are in good condition.

Note that no photographs are allowed inside either of the two temples.

The High Dam

If you haven't already seen the Aswan High Dam during your stay in that town, you may cross it en route to Abu Simbel or to the Aswan airport. (There are two roads to the airport and thence onward to Abu Simbel, one crossing the Old Dam, the other crossing the new High Dam.) On your return from either, consider stopping atop the High Dam to look at the charts and study the relationship of the structure to the lake and river.

Surviving in the Desert

Though you will be near the Visitor Center here and its abundant supply of bottled water and cold drinks, be sure to carry with you down to the temples your own supply of water (I recommend a liter minimum) and maybe even a snack such as an energy bar. The round-trip walk, with milling around at the two temples, is about two miles according to my pedometer, but the heat and sun can take a toll on even the hardy. Also, of course, be sure to wear long sleeves and ditto trousers, as well as a good sun hat and plenty of sunscreen lotion.

Resources

An excellent travel organizer in Egypt is Wings Tours, one of the most efficient such organizations there, with excellent guides and meticulous service. Their American office is in Maryland. Contact them at tel. 410/771-0925; www.wingsegypt.com, email wingsusa@verizon.net.

You can get more information on Egypt from the official site of the Egyptian Tourist Authority at www.egypt.travel.


advertisement