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Introduction to Burgos242km (150 miles) N of Madrid, 121km (75 miles) NE of Valladolid Founded in the 9th century, this Gothic city in the Arlanzón River valley lives up to its reputation as the "cradle of Castile." Just as the Tuscans are credited with speaking the most perfect Italian, the citizens of Burgos, with their distinctive lisp ("El Theed" for "El Cid"), supposedly speak the most eloquent Castilian. El Cid Campeador, Spain's greatest national hero, immortalized in the epic El Cantar de Mío Cid, is forever linked to Burgos. He was born near here and his remains lie in the city's grand cathedral. Like all the great cities of Old Castile, Burgos declined seriously in the 16th century, only to be revived later. In 1936 during the Civil War, the right-wing city was Franco's Nationalist army headquarters. Today Burgos no longer enjoys its historical glory but is a provincial city along the meseta, or plateau, of Spain. Dry as a desert and burning hot during the summer days, it comes alive at night and is filled with smoky cafes and dance clubs. Most of the bars, frequented by students, are in the area around the cathedral. Many of them don't start to party seriously until after 10pm, so it's a late-night town.
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