Introduction to Elba

Though it would probably win the tiara in a natural-beauty-plus-activities pageant of Italian islands, Elba doesn't have the most glamorous reputation in the Med. Chances are, you know it as the island where a certain vertically challenged French ruler was exiled -- and not much else about it. Plenty of image-conscious Italians even turn their noses up at Elba, because it's basically a "proletarian" resort that doesn't have the prestige of Sardinia's Costa Smeralda, or the chicness and drop-dead stupendous terrain of Capri, or the cache of smaller Tuscan islands like Giglio and Capraia. Let them be snobs, because Elba has big surprises in store for anyone who thinks a Napoleonic stint is its only claim to fame.

Looks-wise, imagine the green hills and valleys of Chianti country mixed with craggy mountain peaks and dramatic coastlines. Lovely natural scenery and a well-established tourist infrastructure make Elba a delicious treat for both outdoor lovers and relaxation-seekers alike. Fully half of Elba's rugged landscape is designated parkland of the Parco Nazionale dell'Arcipelago Toscano (established in 1996): There are mountains to climb, secluded coves to swim and paddle in, sandy beaches to laze upon, and historic towns to wander. Whether you want to break a sweat taking in the sights, or just watch the scenery play out from a car window along one of the island's panoramic roads, mellow Elba is always a feast for the eyes.

Thanks to the existence of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, much of Elba remains protected from the blights of mass tourism. Nevertheless, this is still an island that's been "discovered" in a big way, especially by middle-class Italians and northern Europeans. Don't come seeking solitude in July and August, but if you can get past the crowded beaches and traffic-clogged roads in those months, Elba is great fun in high season, when the vacation atmosphere is at fever pitch.

As for Napoleon, history buffs might be disappointed to know that there's not a whole lot left -- besides a few rather dilapidated villas -- from his tenure on Elba (although you can thank him for the island's good road system): He only spent 10 months here, after all, a mere drop in the bucket of Elba's geologic and human history.