Planning a Trip

Getting There

The easiest way to get to the island is by ferry from Piombino to Portoferraio, Elba's capital. In August and throughout the high season, it's best to reserve, especially if you're taking a car over. There are two major ferry companies, Toremar (tel. 199-123-1990 or 565-31-100 in Piombino, 0565-918-080 in Portoferraio; www.toremar.it) and Moby Lines, also known as NAV.AR.MA (tel. 0565-225-211 or 0565-221-212 in Piombino, 0565-914-133 in Portoferraio; www.mobylines.it). Both run regular ferries (traghetto or nave) that take about an hour. Toremar also offers slightly faster (40 min.) but almost twice-as-expensive hydrofoils (aliscafo) on which you can't take a car. Toremar has the most ferry runs daily, especially off season, with hourly runs April through August and six to eight daily in winter. Year-round, there are three or four hydrofoils daily to Cavo, on Elba's northeast coast, plus three to four direct to Portoferraio in summer only. You can compare both companies' schedules quickly and easily at www.traghetti.com.

You'll find uncrowded ticket offices on the right side of the road as you approach Piombino, more crowded offices just before the port on the right, and packed offices at the port itself (all well sign-posted). One-way ferry tickets are about 5.50€ to 7.50€ ($7.15-$9.75), per passenger including tax (the price depends on the period). Cars with one person in them cost 27€ ($35).

Hydrofoils cost from 7€ to 10€ ($9.10-$13) per passenger to Portoferraio or about 5.50€ ($7.15) to Cavo. You can park at a number of garages and lots at the Piombino docks for 8€ to 12€ ($10-$16) per day.

Toremar's office in Portoferraio is at Calata Italia 23; Moby Lines' Portoferraio office is at Via Ninci 1. Toremar also runs boats to Elba's other ports (Cavo, Rio Marina, and Porto Azzuro) as well as a longer-haul ferry from Livorno to Elba once daily (plus an extra Sat run) from May 24 to September 14 that calls on Capraia (and sometimes also Gorgonza) along the way. Toremar in Livorno is at the Porto Mediceo (tel. 0586-896-113).

Getting Around

Drivers will have no problem, as the island's road system is quite good. If you want to rent a car on Elba, contact Hertz, Viale Elba 4 (tel. 0565-917-148; www.hertz.com); Maggiore, Calata Italia 8 (tel. 0565-930-222 or 0565-903-212; www.maggiore.it); or Happy Rent, Viale Elba 5 (tel. 0565-914-665; www.renthappy.it).

To rent a scooter or bike -- not a bad way to tool around -- try these places in Portoferraio: BW's Racing, Via Manganaro 15 (tel. 0565-930-491), or Two Wheels Network, Viale Elba 32 (tel. 0565-914-666). Rates vary widely depending on season, but expect scooters to run 38€ to 49€ ($49-$64) per day and bikes and mountain bikes to start at 8€ ($10).

Elba is also blessed with an excellent bus network run by ATL (tel. 0565-914-392). Buses leave Portoferraio from the main terminal at Viale Elba 20 in the newer part of town (turn right out of the tourist office, then right again at the main street), servicing just about every town on the island. (If you know the name of a beach between villages where you want to be let off, tell the driver.) You can store your bags at the bus station for 1.30€ ($1.70) per bag per day. It's open daily: summer from 8am to 8pm and winter from 7:40am to 1:20pm and 4 to 6:05pm.

Visitor Information

Elba's main tourist office is in Portoferraio's new town at the ferry dock, Calata Italia 26, up the stairs (tel. 0565-914-671; fax 0565-916-350; www.arcipelago.turismo.toscana.it; Mon-Sat 8am-2pm and 3-6pm; in summer also sometimes Sun 8am-2pm). Two private websites are loaded with info and pictures (and paid for by local businesses, so take it all with a grain of salt): www.elbacom.it, mostly in Italian but with spiffy music; and www.elbatuttanatura.com, put up by an Elban hotel devoted to enjoying the natural wonders of the island (with a downloadable newsletter in English).

For help in the hotel hunt, head to the Associazione Albergatori Isola d'Elba, Calata Italia 20 (tel. 800-903-532 toll-free in Italy or 0565-914-754; fax 0565-917-865; www.albergatorielbani.it; open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm and 3-7pm, Sat 9:30am-12:30pm). Though it isn't an official body, its network does include most hotels on the island, and it'll be happy to give you a catalog and price list.

Festivals & Markets

Elba puts on a wine festival the last week of July at Le Ghiaie beach behind Portoferraio. During the July and August high season, every town puts on some sort of small festa; in Marciana Alta, it's an August medieval pageant that robes the locals in costume and fills the streets with artisans offering old-fashioned crafts (call tel. 0565-901-215 for info). Portoferraio's weekly Friday market is held on Viale Zambelli.