Nariz do Vinho Tinto

This is one of our favorite restaurants in Lisbon -- and known only to the most discerning of palates -- so don't tell anyone about it. In the elegant Lapa district, the restaurant -- "Red Wine Nose" in English -- is owned by Antonio Ignacio. He gives equal attention to his wines as he does to his market-fresh produce. In two small dining rooms, decorated with cookbooks and wine bottles, he serves a cuisine that raises many dishes to gastronomic heights for Lisbon. His pata negra ham, for example, coming from the black-hoofed pig, is the single best platter of this dish we've ever tasted in Lisbon. Try his deeply smoky "game sausage" with its crackly skin and tantalizing filling, or else his cod roasted with ham fat (don't tell your doctor). Even the turnip tops cooked here are a savory treat and super green.

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