Hotels

The good news is that more than 10,000 hotel rooms have opened in London post-millennium, relieving the overcrowding that existed during peak travel months. The downside? Most of these hotels are in districts far from the city center and are of the no-frills budget-chain variety.

Post millennium, some hoteliers have decided to adapt former public or institutional buildings rather than start from scratch. For example, the imposing County Hall building in the S1 district now boasts two chains: a luxurious Marriott and a leaner, meaner Travel Inn. Another trend is a shift away from the West End to such respectable sections as Greenwich (now a virtual suburb of London), Docklands, and even the City (London's financial district). With all the vast improvements and upgrades made at the turn of the 21st century, chances are, you'll like your room. What you won't like is the price. Even if a hotel remains scruffy, London hoteliers have little embarrassment about jacking up prices. Hotels in all categories remain overpriced.

London boasts some of the most famous hotels in the world -- temples of luxury like Claridge's and The Dorchester, and more recent rivals like the Four Seasons. The problem is that there are too many of these high-priced hotels (and now there are many budget options) and not enough moderately priced options.

Even at the luxury level, you may be surprised at what you don't get. Many of the stately Victorian and Edwardian gems are so steeped in tradition that they lack modern conveniences standard in other luxury hotels around the world. A few have modernized with a vengeance, but others retain amenities from the Boer War era. London does have some cutting-edge, chintz-free hotels that seem to have been flown in straight from Los Angeles -- complete with high-end sound systems and gadget-filled marble bathrooms. But these hotels are not necessarily superior; though they're streamlined and convenient, they frequently lack the personal service and spaciousness that characterize the grand old hotels.

Since the late 1990s and post-millennium, new boutique hotels have been generating lots of excitement. With their charm, intimacy, and attention to detail, they're an attractive alternative to larger, stuffier establishments. The "boutiquing" of the hotel scene continues -- the city offers more personally run and privately operated hotels than ever. We've surveyed the best of them, concentrating on reasonably priced choices.

If you're looking for budget options, don't despair. London has some good-value places in the lower price ranges, and we've included the best of these. An affordable option is a bed-and-breakfast. The following reliable services will recommend and arrange a B&B room for you: The London Bed and Breakfast Agency Limited (tel. 020/7586-2768; fax 020/7586-6567; www.londonbb.com) is a reputable agency that can provide inexpensive accommodations in selected private homes for £30 to £50 ($57-$95) per person per night, based on double occupancy (although some accommodations will cost a lot more). London B&B (tel. 800/872-2632 in the U.S.; fax 619/531-1686; www.londonbandb.com) offers B&B accommodations in private family residences or unhosted apartments. Homes are inspected for quality and comfort, amenities, and convenience.

Instead of B&Bs, some savvy visitors prefer long-term options, including self-catering accommodations or else vacation or apartment rentals. One of the best establishments for arranging this type of rental is Coach House London Rentals, 2 Tunly Rd., London SW17 7QJ (tel. 020/8772-1939; fax 020/8181-6152; www.rentals.chslondon.com). The agency represents more than 75 properties, ranging from modest studio flats for friendly couples to spacious homes that can sleep up to 12. The minimum length of a stay is 5 nights, and a car can be sent to the airport to pick you up.

For the upmarket traveler, the aptly named Uptown Reservations, 8 Kelso Place, London W8 5QD (tel. 020/7937-2001; fax 020/7937-6660; www.uptownres.co.uk), features attractive, comfortably furnished accommodations in elegant private homes in swanky districts of the city. You share your digs with the hosts themselves, many of whom are artists, diplomats, or, in some rare cases, lords of the realm who need extra money for living expenses. A substantial breakfast is included in the price.

Amazing discounts, seemingly unavailable elsewhere, are offered by VisitHotels.com, 37B New Cavendish St., London W1G 8JR (tel. 08704/352-422; fax 08704/325-423; www.visithotels.com). Sometimes discounts on a room can range up to 70%.

You can also look for deals on online travel booking sites like Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, or you can book hotels through Hotels.com, Quikbook (www.quikbook.com), and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.net).

HotelChatter.com is a daily webzine offering smart coverage and critiques of hotels worldwide. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for helpful independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties. It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

It's true that you can almost always get a room at a deluxe hotel if you're willing to pay the price. But during certain peak periods, including the high season (roughly April to October) and during trade shows, seasonal events, and royal occasions, rooms in all kinds of hotels may be snatched up early. Book ahead. If you arrive without a reservation, begin your search for a room as early in the day as possible. If you arrive late at night, you may have to take what you can get, often at a much higher price than you'd like.

The vast majority of the hotels and B&Bs listed below offer nonsmoking rooms -- just ask for one when you book.