Hotels

The good news is that more than 10,000 hotel rooms have opened in London post millennium, relieving the overcrowding that existed during peak travel months. The downside? Most of these hotels are in districts far from the city center and are of the no-frills budget-chain variety.

Post millennium, some hoteliers have decided to adapt former public or institutional buildings rather than start from scratch. With all the vast improvements and upgrades made at the turn of the 21st century, chances are you'll like your room. What you won't like is the price. Even if a hotel remains scruffy, London hoteliers have little embarrassment about jacking up prices. Hotels in all categories remain overpriced.

London boasts some of the most famous hotels in the world -- temples of luxury like Claridge's and the Dorchester, and more recent rivals like the Four Seasons. The problem is that there are too many of these high-priced hotels (and now there are many budget options) and not enough moderately priced options.

Even at the luxury level, you may be surprised at what you don't get. Many of the stately Victorian and Edwardian gems are so steeped in tradition that they lack modern conveniences standard in other luxury hotels around the world. A few have modernized with a vengeance, but others retain amenities from the Boer War era. London does have some cutting-edge, chintz-free hotels that seem to have been flown in straight from Los Angeles -- complete with high-end sound systems and gadget-filled marble bathrooms. But these hotels are not necessarily superior; though they're streamlined and convenient, they frequently lack the personal service and spaciousness that characterize the grand old hotels.

With their charm, intimacy, and attention to detail, boutique hotels are an attractive alternative to larger, stuffier establishments. The "boutiquing" of the hotel scene continues -- the city offers more personally run and privately operated hotels than ever. We've surveyed the best of them, concentrating on reasonably priced choices.

If you're looking for budget options, don't despair. London has some good-value places in the lower price ranges, and we've included the best of these. An affordable option is a bed-and-breakfast. The following reliable services will recommend and arrange a B&B room for you: The London Bed and Breakfast Agency Limited (tel. 020/7586-2768; fax 020/7586-6567; www.londonbb.com) is a reputable agency that can provide inexpensive accommodations in selected private homes for £26 to £60 per person per night, based on double occupancy (although some accommodations will cost a lot more). London B&B (tel. 800/872-2632 in the U.S.; fax 619/531-1686; www.londonbandb.com) offers B&B accommodations in private family residences or unhosted apartments. Homes are inspected for quality and comfort, amenities, and convenience.

Instead of B&Bs, some savvy visitors prefer long-term options, including self-catering accommodations or else vacation or apartment rentals. One of the best establishments for arranging this type of rental is Coach House London Rentals, 2 Tunly Rd., London SW17 7QJ (tel. 020/8133-8332; fax 020/8181-6152; www.rentals.chslondon.com). The agency represents more than 75 properties, ranging from modest studio flats for friendly couples to spacious homes that can sleep up to 12. The minimum length of a stay is 5 nights, and a car can be sent to the airport to pick you up.

For the upmarket traveler, the aptly named Uptown Reservations, 8 Kelso Place, London W8 5QD (tel. 020/7937-2001; fax 020/7937-6660; www.uptownres.co.uk), features attractive, comfortably furnished accommodations in elegant private homes in swanky districts of the city. You share your digs with the hosts themselves, many of whom are artists, diplomats, or, in some rare cases, lords of the realm who need extra money for living expenses. A substantial breakfast is included in the price.

Amazing discounts, seemingly unavailable elsewhere, are offered by VisitHotels.com, 37B New Cavendish St., London W1G 8JR (tel. 08704/352-422; fax 08704/325-423; www.visithotels.com). Sometimes discounts on a room can range up to 70%.

You can also look for deals on online travel booking sites like Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, or you can book hotels through Hotels.com, Quikbook (www.quikbook.com), and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.net).

HotelChatter.com is a daily webzine offering smart coverage and critiques of hotels worldwide. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for helpful independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties. It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

It's true that you can almost always get a room at a deluxe hotel if you're willing to pay the price. But during certain peak periods, including the high season (roughly Apr-Oct) and during trade shows, seasonal events, and royal occasions, rooms in all kinds of hotels may be snatched up early. Book ahead. If you arrive without a reservation, begin your search for a room as early in the day as possible. If you arrive late at night, you may have to take what you can get, often at a much higher price than you'd like.

Rate Regulations -- All hotels, motels, inns, and guesthouses in Britain with four bedrooms or more (including self-catering accommodations) must display notices listing minimum and maximum overnight charges in a prominent place in the reception area or at the entrance. The prices must include any service charge and may include VAT. If VAT isn't included, then it must be shown separately. And if meals are included, this must be stated.

Saving on Your Hotel Room -- The rack rate is the maximum rate a hotel charges for a room. Hardly anybody pays this price, however, except in high season or on holidays. To lower the cost of your room:

• Ask about special rates or other discounts. You may qualify for corporate, student, military, senior, frequent flier, trade union, or other discounts.
• Dial direct. When booking a room in a chain hotel, you'll often get a better deal by calling the individual hotel's reservation desk rather than the chain's main number.
• Book online. Many hotels offer Internet-only discounts or supply rooms to Priceline, Hotwire, or Expedia at rates much lower than the ones you can get through the hotel itself.
• Remember the law of supply and demand. You can save big on hotel rooms by traveling in a destination's off season or shoulder seasons, when rates typically drop, even at luxury properties.
• Look into group or long-stay discounts. If you come as part of a large group, you should be able to negotiate a bargain rate. Likewise, if you're planning a long stay (at least 5 days), you might qualify for a discount. As a general rule, expect 1 night free after a 7-night stay.
• Sidestep excess surcharges and hidden costs. Many hotels have adopted the unpleasant practice of nickel-and-diming guests with opaque surcharges. When you book a room, ask what is included in the room rate, and what is extra. Avoid dialing direct from hotel phones, which can have exorbitant rates. And don't be tempted by the room's minibar offerings: Most hotels charge through the nose for water, soda, and snacks. Finally, ask about local taxes and service charges, which can increase the cost of a room by 15% or more.
• Book an efficiency. A room with a kitchenette allows you to shop for groceries and cook your own meals. This is a big money saver, especially for families on long stays.
• Consider enrolling in hotel chains' "frequent-stay" programs, which are upping the ante lately to win the loyalty of repeat customers. Frequent guests can now accumulate points or credits to earn free hotel nights, airline miles, in-room amenities, merchandise, tickets to concerts and events, discounts on sporting facilities -- and even credit toward stock in the participating hotel, in the case of the Jameson Inn hotel group. Perks are awarded not only by many chain hotels and motels (Hilton HHonors, Marriott Rewards, Wyndham ByRequest, to name a few) but also by individual inns and B&Bs. Many chain hotels partner with other hotel chains, car-rental firms, airlines, and credit card companies to give consumers additional incentive to do repeat business.

Landing the Best Room -- Somebody has to get the best room in the house. It might as well be you. You can start by joining the hotel's frequent-guest program, which may make you eligible for upgrades. A hotel-branded credit card usually gives its owner "silver" or "gold" status in frequent-guest programs for free. Always ask about a corner room. They're often larger and quieter, with more windows and light, and they often cost the same as standard rooms. When you make your reservation, ask if the hotel is renovating; if it is, request a room away from the construction. Ask about nonsmoking rooms and rooms with views. Be sure to request your choice of twin, queen- or king-size beds. If you're a light sleeper, ask for a quiet room away from vending or ice machines, elevators, restaurants, bars, and discos. Ask for a room that has been recently renovated or refurbished.

If you aren't happy with your room when you arrive, ask for another one. Most lodgings will be willing to accommodate you.

In & Around the City

There are precious few hotels within the confines of the City (the financial district). If you plan to do a lot of business or sightseeing in the City and you're not very interested in shopping, theater, and nightlife, then the location might be perfect for you.

Near Heathrow

The reason for staying at one of the hotels below is obvious: You either want to catch an early plane or are arriving too late to search for a hotel in central London. Unless you like plane-spotting, there isn't much reason to hang out. These hotels provide transportation to and from the airport.

Family-Friendly Hotels

Although the bulk of their clients are business travelers, the major hotel chains are also geared to family fun. Look for special summer packages at most hotel chains between June and August. Some of the most generous offers come from Travelodge (tel. 800/578-7878 in the U.S.) and Hilton International (tel. 800/445-8667 in the U.S.) chains. For best results, call the 800-number and ask about family packages. Here are two other family-friendly spots:

The Colonnade -- Located in the canal-laced Little Venice section of London, this hotel lets children under 12 stay free in their parent's room, and the staff can arrange babysitting. This residential area is safe, with tree-lined avenues leading down to a canal. With its shops, cafes, and restaurants, Little Venice has a real neighborhood feel to it.

Hart House Hotel -- This small, family-run B&B is right in the center of the West End, near Hyde Park. Many of its rooms are triples. If you need even more space, special family suites, with connecting rooms, can be arranged.

Cheap Lodging for Students

The International Students House, 229 Great Portland St., W1W 5PN (tel. 020/7631-8310; www.ish.org.uk), offers blandly furnished, institutional rooms within the two lowest floors of a building which rose from the ashes of World War II. It's far from glamorous, but it's hard to beat the price: £27 per person for a double with shared facilities in the hallway, and £30 per person for a double with private facilities. Per person rates in a quad with shared facilities in the hallway cost £19 per person. A £10 key deposit is charged but refunded at the end of your stay. Facilities include laundry machines, a bar, an Internet cafe, and a fitness center. Reserve way in advance, because these rooms go very quickly.

Upstairs, Downstairs

Elevators are called "lifts." Some of them are just as Victorian as the edifices in which they operate. They are, however, regularly inspected and completely safe. Many hotels (and especially B&Bs) lack even these rudimentary elevators, making those hotels inaccessible for individuals with disabilities. If you have mobility issues, call ahead and make sure there isn't a steep, narrow staircase between the lobby and your guest room.

How to Avoid Getting "Knocked Up"

If you don't want a rude awakening, remember to hang the DO NOT DISTURB sign on your doorknob (or bolt the door, if that's an option). English hotel service personnel have a disconcerting habit of bursting in simultaneously with their knock.

Hot & Cold

Hotel rooms in London aren't kept as warm as in other parts of the world. Bring a sweater if you find yourself chilly at a lower-than-usual room temperature. In summer, rooms without air-conditioning can get quite hot. Don't assume your hotel, even at the luxury level, has central air; many have only partial air-conditioning or none at all. Call ahead and ask if this is a concern for you.