Restaurants

In 1946, George Mikes, Britain's famous Hungarian-born humorist, wrote about the cuisine of his adopted country: "The Continentals have good food. The English have good table manners."

Quite a lot has happened since.

London has emerged as one of the great food capitals of the world. Both its veteran and upstart chefs have fanned out around the globe for culinary inspiration and returned with innovative dishes, flavors, and ideas that London diners have never seen before. These chefs are pioneering a style called "Modern British," which is forever changing and innovative, yet familiar in many ways.

Traditional British cooking has made a comeback, too. The dishes that British mums have been forever feeding their families are fashionable again. Yes, we're talking British soul food: bangers and mash, Norfolk dumplings, nursery puddings, cottage pie. This may be a rebellion against the minimalism of the nouvelle cuisine of the 1980s, but maybe it's just plain nostalgia. Pig's nose with parsley-and-onion sauce may not be your idea of cutting-edge cuisine, but Simpson's-in-the-Strand is serving it for breakfast.

These days, many famous chefs spend more time writing cookbooks and appearing on TV than in their own kitchens. That chef you've read about in Condé Nast Traveler or Travel & Leisure may not be in the kitchen when you get here. But don't worry: The cuisine isn't suffering. An up-and-coming new chef, perhaps even better than the one you heard about, has probably taken over the kitchen.

If you want a lavish meal, London is the place: Gourmet havens such as Le Gavroche and a half-dozen others are reviewed in the following pages. We've also included many affordable restaurants where you can dine well and still pay off your mortgage. You'll find that London's food revolution has infiltrated every level of the dining scene -- even the lowly pub has entered the culinary sweepstakes. Believe the unthinkable: At certain pubs, you can now dine better than in many restaurants. In some, standard pub grub has given way to Modern British and Mediterranean-style fare; in others, oyster bars have taken hold.

Some Dining Notes

Hours -- Restaurants in London keep varied hours, but in general, lunch is offered from noon to 2pm and dinner from 7:30 to 9:30pm, although more restaurants are staying open later. Sunday is the usual closing day for restaurants, but there are exceptions. (Many also close for a few days around Christmas, so call ahead during the holidays.) We've listed serving hours in the descriptions below.

Reservations -- Nearly all places, except pubs, cafeterias, and fast-food joints, prefer or require reservations. Almost invariably, you get a better table if you book in advance. For a few of the famous places, you might need to reserve weeks in advance, even before leaving home. (Reservations should always be confirmed when you get to London.) However, if you haven't made reservations, even at a "reservations required" restaurant, it's worth trying to walk into the restaurant if you are in the area. If they do have room, you won't be turned down.

Taxes & Tipping -- All restaurants and cafes are required to display the prices of their food and drink in a place visible from outside. Charges for service, as well as any minimums or cover charges, must also be made clear. The prices shown must include 17.5% VAT. Most restaurants add a 10% to 15% service charge to your bill, but check to make sure. If nothing has been added, leave a 10% to 15% tip. It is not considered rude to tip, so feel free to leave something extra if service was good.

A Note About Prices -- When restaurants are classified as Moderate or Inexpensive, most main courses are at the lower end of the price scale. That doesn't mean the chefs don't prepare some expensive dishes. Often they do, especially if they offer shellfish. But if you avoid the highest-priced dishes, you can dine moderately or inexpensively at our selections.

Neighborhood Favourites

A City of Wine -- At Vinopolis, 1 Bank End, Park St., SE1 (tel. 0870/241-4040; www.vinopolis.co.uk), you can partake of London's largest selection of wine sold by the glass. On the South Bank, this "city of wine" lies under cavernous railway arches created in Victoria's era. The bacchanalian attraction was created in a multimedia format, at the cost of £23 million ($44 million). You can journey virtually through some of the earth's most prestigious wine regions, driving a Vespa through the Tuscan countryside or taking a "flight" over the vineyards of Australia. The price of entrance includes free tastings of five premium wines, and an on-site shop sells almost any item related to the grape. The site also boasts a good restaurant (Cantina Vinopolis). Depending on the ticket and package purchased, admission ranges from £16 to £26 ($30-$49). Hours are Monday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday noon to 9pm, Wednesday and Sunday noon to 6pm. Closed Tuesday.

The Brew House -- Unknown to most visitors, there's a charming little place in North London for breakfast, afternoon tea, and lunches at one of Hampstead Heath's most alluring attractions. It's The Brew House, in Kenwood House, Hampstead Lane, NW3 (tel. 020/8341-5384), open in summer daily from 9am to 6pm (until 4pm in winter). There is always a freshly made soup of the day and at least one vegetarian dish. Main courses are likely to include free-range sausages or else fresh Scottish salmon, and even free-range chicken. You can partake of the breakfast buffet for between £4 and £7 ($7.60-$13); at lunch main courses cost £5 to £10 ($9.50-$19). Tube: Northern line to Archway Station, then bus no. 210.

The Best Charcuterie in Mayfair -- Born-to-shop aficionados who spend hours trawling Oxford Street, Bond Street, and South Moulton often retreat to Truc Vert, 42 North Audley St., W1 (tel. 020/7491-9988; www.trucvert.co.uk), for a refreshing respite. This is a combination grocery store and dining room, with rush-seated chairs and tables draped in paper. In an elegantly casual atmosphere, it offers an array of some of the finest charcuterie products in Mayfair, along with cheese, wines, tasty sandwiches, homemade salads, and daily quiches and soups. You can also secure the makings of a picnic here. Make sure to try the chocolate-orange mousse tart. Open Monday to Saturday 7:30am to 9:30pm, Sunday 9:30am to 3pm. Tube: Bond Street.

Après-Theater Dining

For years, lower-priced menus and a lack of late-night eateries convinced most theatergoers to dine before the show. But the city now accommodates those who prefer dining after the theater. Quaglino's is a vast establishment that stays open until 11:30pm or midnight. If a hamburger or steak will do, head for the Hard Rock Cafe.

Near Piccadilly Circus, you can make it to Circus before the last orders go in at midnight, or order from the bar menu until 1:30am. Balans, which caters to a gay crowd, serves until the wee hours.

Piccadilly Circus & Leicester Square/Soho/Covent Garden & the Strand -- Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square lie at the doorstep of the West End theaters. All the choices (along with those in Covent Garden & the Strand and Soho) are good candidates for dining before or after a show.