Nightlife

From the fringes of the East End to the bowels of West Brompton and beyond, London pulsates with more nightlife than any other capital of Europe. Bette Midler once said that when it's three o'clock in the morning in New York, it's 1938 in London. But she said that a long time ago. Times have changed. London is an all-night party town.

The draconian liquor laws of yesterday have been relaxed a bit. Even if your favorite pub closes at 11pm, there are still bars and late-night joints awaiting your business. Bars, in fact, are no longer places to drop in for a drink, but often an all-night venue unto themselves. Many bars are attached to fashionable restaurants with dinner menus, dance floors, and even DJs, so they are looking more and more like nightclubs.

There is such diversity here: a night at the theater, a supper club, a dance club, a fashionable bar, an old-fashioned pub with literary associations, an evening at a Covent Garden opera or the Royal Ballet, a classical music concert at Albert Hall, an intimate jazz club, even a first-run movie or a gay time at a cruisy bar. You name it: London has it.

The Tube may shut down early but there are always night buses to get you back to your hotel. Taxis are available 24 hours but are expensive.

Weekly publications such as Time Out carry full entertainment listings, including data on restaurants, nightclubs, and bars. You'll also find listings in daily newspapers, notably the Times and the Telegraph.

The Best of London's Pubs: The World's Greatest Pub Crawl -- Dropping into the local pub for a pint of real ale or bitter is the best way to soak up the character of the different villages that make up London. You'll hear local accents and slang, and see firsthand how far removed upper-crust Kensington is from blue-collar Wapping. Catch the local gossip or football talk -- and, of course, enjoy some of the finest ales, stouts, ciders, and malt whiskies in the world.

Gay & Lesbian Nightlife -- Time Out also carries listings on gay and lesbian clubs. Another good place for finding out what's hot and hip is Prowler Soho, 3-7 Brewer St., Soho, W1 (tel. 020/7734-4031; Tube: Piccadilly Circus), the largest gay lifestyle store in London. It's open until 10pm Monday to Saturday, Sunday noon to 8pm. On the Web, www.gingerbeer.co.uk is the best site for lesbians to find out what's going on in London, and the magazine that all bona fide lesbians read is G3 (www.g3magazine.co.uk).

Las Vegas Nights in the Heart of London

If James Bond were to arrive in town with his latest Pussy Galore, he might invite her to spend a night at Casino at the Empire (Leicester Square, WC2; tel. 020/3014-1000; Tube: Leicester Sq.), in the heart of London. For ages the Empire, with its iconic art deco decor, was one of the most famous dance palaces in the U.K. But the foxtrot and tango have given way to gaming tables, chic bars, and dining enclaves.

It succeeds in recreating the classy days of gaming, and you expect Frank Sinatra and his Rat Pack in tuxes to show up at any minute. Choose your spot for the evening's debauchery; ours is The Icon Room on the second landing, a cocktail lounge with a balcony overlooking the masses of Leicester Square. It evokes a French boudoir with its crimson furnishings.

The Shadow Bar nearby features live entertainment and evokes Las Vegas with its deep seat lounges and illuminated dance floor. FuLuShou serves decent Asian fusion cuisine, with exotic teas a feature. Or else sample the succulent grilled meats and fresh seafood in Flame. There's even a ice cream parlor and coffee bar upstairs.

State-of-the-art electronic games include roulette, punto banco, blackjack, three-card poker, and other ways to lose your money in the glamorous ground floor casino. To become a member, you can present a driving license or passport to the reception. The club is open Sunday to Friday noon to 6am and Saturday noon to 4am.