What's New

London is the most volatile and ever-changing city in Europe -- "the scene" is constantly shifting. Here are some of the latest developments.

Getting to Know London

One of the best travel bargains in years, the "Oyster Card," a travel discount card, cuts pricey transportation costs in London almost in half. "Oysters" are valid on the Tube, the DLR, trams, National Rail Services, and across the entire London bus network. In a restricted zone, you never pay more than £3 ($5.70) for an entire day's travel.

Where to Stay

In the financial district of London, The Hoxton, 81 Great Eastern St., EC2 (tel. 020/7550-1000), aims to cut down hotel rip-offs and does so with many innovative policies such as lowering charges on phone calls from your room. If you're really lucky, you'll book in here on a special budget rate of £1 ($1.90) a night, but that's hard to come by. The minibar, one of the greatest rip-offs in most hotels, comes here with free mineral water and milk instead of pricey liquor.

On a more upmarket note, The Rockwell, 181-183 Cromwell Rd., SW5 (tel. 020/7244-2000), has opened in Kensington, an independently owned bastion of deluxe comfort in a converted Georgian manse. Traditional English aesthetic meets modern design -- even the power shower and bathroom fittings are by the trendy designer, Philippe Starck.

Where to Dine

In the National Gallery, The National Dining Rooms has opened at Trafalgar Square, WC2 (tel. 020/7747-2525), serving a traditional British cuisine at moderate prices. The dining rooms lie over the foyer of the Sainsbury Wing, opening onto a panoramic view of this landmark London square. Instead of fancy dishes from the Continent, art-loving diners get classic British cuisine with market-fresh ingredients that include the likes of mackerel pâté (reportedly a favorite dish of Queen Elizabeth herself).

In another museum-dining changeover, the Rex Whistler at the Tate Britain, Millbank SW1 (tel. 020/7887-8825), has emerged with a new name but it still offers an array of superior wines at bargain prices and continues to feature an English menu that changes every month.

Even Prince William shows up at The Pig's Ear, 35 Old Church St., SW1 (tel. 020/7352-2909), a new gastro-pub in Chelsea serving a classic British cuisine, and doing so exceedingly well. Even if you skip the chef's specialty, deep-fried pigs' ears, you might opt for the seared tuna with black olives and chicory or roast wood pigeon stuffed with mushrooms.

Side Trips From London

Oxford -- In this university city, Malmaison Oxford Castle, 3 Oxford Castle (tel. 01865/2484320), is not only the quirkiest hotel in town but also one of the most intriguing. It's installed in a building where inmates were detained "at Her Majesty's Pleasure." The barred windows have been retained, but everything else in this converted Victorian prison has been brought up to date with all the modern comforts. No hotel in Oxford boasts such luxe bathrooms as Malmaison. The power showers, great beds, and other comforts could only be dreamed about by the former inmates.

Stratford-Upon-Avon -- The hometown of the Bard still lacks a truly gourmet restaurant, but the culinary scene has improved considerably. Either new chefs took over existing properties or new places opened up. Sorrento, 8 Ely St. (tel. 01789/297999), brings a taste of Italy to this family-run restaurant a 4-minute walk from the Shakespeare Theatre. A selection of well-chosen Italian wines complement the menu of Italian classics, including the fresh fish of the day. The One Elm, 1 Guild St. (tel. 01789/404919), serves modern British cuisine in its pub, ground-floor restaurant, or open-air courtyard. The charcoal grill specialties are a particular delight.

On a cultural note, the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, Waterside (tel. 07189/403444), spent much of 2007 undergoing a major restoration, with a gala reopening scheduled for 2008.