Shopping A-Z

Books, Maps & Engravings

In addition to the bookstores listed, Waterstone's, 203-206 Piccadilly, SW1 (tel. 020/7851-2400; www.waterstones.com), is the largest bookstore in Europe -- and it even has a bar.

The Department Stores

Contrary to popular belief, Harrods is not the only department store in London. The British invented the department store, and they have lots of them, mostly in Mayfair, and each has its own customer profile.

Food

English food has come a long way, and it's worth enjoying and bringing home. Don't miss the Food Halls in Harrods. Consider the Fifth Floor at Harvey Nicks if Harrods is too crowded -- it isn't the same, but it'll do. Also check out the internationally famous Fortnum & Mason food emporium.

China, Glass & Silver

Royal Doulton -- Founded in the 1930s, this company has one of the largest inventories of china in Britain. A wide range of English bone china, as well as crystal and giftware, is sold. The firm (www.royaldoulton.com) no longer operates its own outlet in London. But its products are sold in many upmarket stores, notably Selfridges at 400 Oxford St., W1 (tel. 0870/837-7377; Tube: Bond St.), and John Lewis, 278-306 Oxford St., W1 (tel. 020/7629-7711; Tube: Bond St.).

Fashion

Classic -- While every internationally known designer worth his or her weight in Shantung silk has a boutique in London, the best buys are on the sturdy English styles that last forever. See also the separate sections on "Cashmere & Woolens," "Handbags," "Jewelry," and "Shoes."

Cutting Edge -- Warning: With the current exchange rate between the U.S. dollar and the British pound, cutting-edge fashion has now priced itself out of the market for the average shopper unless you're married to Bill Gates. If you demand the very best, at least look for sales, or else patronize some of our more democratically priced establishments, even secondhand stores. Sometimes still fashionable dresses or gowns have been worn only two or three times at the most.

Currently, the most cutting-edge shopping area in London is Conduit Street, W1, in Mayfair (Tube: Oxford Circus or Green Park). Once known for its dowdy airline offices, it is now London's smartest fashion street. Trendy shops are opening between Regent Street and the "blue-chip" boutiques of New Bond Street. Current stars include Vivienne Westwood, 44 Conduit St., W1 (tel. 020/7924-4747; www.viviennewestwood.com), who has left her punk origins behind and is now the grande dame of English fashion. See the listing for her flagship store. Krizia, 25 Conduit St., W1 (tel. 020/7491-4987; www.krizia.net), the fashion rage of Rome since the 1950s, displays not only Krizia's clothing lines, but her luxury home goods as well.

For muted fashion elegance, Yohji Yamamoto, 14-15 Conduit St., W1 (tel. 020/7491-4129), is hard to beat, and Issey Miyake, 52 Conduit St., W1 (tel. 020/7851-4620; www.isseymiyake.com), is the Japanese master of minimalism.

Music

Collectors should browse Notting Hill because there are a handful of good shops near the Notting Hill Gate Tube stop. Also browse Soho in the Wardour Street area, near the Tottenham Court Road Tube stop. Sometimes dealers show up at Covent Garden on the weekends.

Sporting Goods

Harrods has a surprising collection of sporting goods, including everything you'll need for a polo match.

Tea

Of course, don't forget to visit Fortnum & Mason for tea as well.