Shopping A-Z

Antiques

Check out Portobello Market.

Art

Go East, Art Lover -- The East End neighborhood of Hoxton was a tawdry backwater until very recently, when artists starting flocking here and opening studios, cleaning up the discarded mattresses, and rejuvenating abandoned buildings.

Success was ensured with the opening of White Cube, 48 Hoxton Sq., N1 (tel. 020/7930-5373; www.whitecube.com), owned by Jay Jopling, the leading dealer in modern English art, whose artists include Britain's most contentious, Damien Hirst. The other hot gallery is Victoria Miro Gallery, 16 Wharf Rd., N1 (tel. 020/7336-8109; www.victoria-miro.com). Some of London's most controversial art appears here. Miro represents Chris Ofili, whose "Madonna and Dung" painting enraged former New York mayor and art critic Rudolph Giuliani.

These art dealers and the artists themselves (that is, those who've sold a painting recently) can be found dining at Cantaloupe, 35-42 Charlotte Rd., EC2 (tel. 020/7729-5566), which serves Mediterranean cuisine and great tapas. This informal bar/restaurant, with its wooden tables and industrial fittings, prepares such superb dishes as chargrilled Aberdeen Angus steak with rosemary butter, and fried halloumi (a white cheese from Cyprus) with olive salsa. Open Monday through Friday from noon to 3pm and 6 to 11pm, and Saturday from 7 to 11pm. Main courses cost from £9.50 to £20 ($18-$38).

Take the Tube to Old Street to arrive near the doorsteps of all of these establishments.

Books, Maps & Engravings

In addition to the bookstores listed here, Waterstone's, 203-206 Piccadilly, SW1 (tel. 020/7851-2400; www.waterstones.com), is the largest bookstore in Europe -- and it even has a bar.

The Department Stores

Contrary to popular belief, Harrods is not the only department store in London. The British invented the department store, and they have lots of them, mostly in Mayfair, and each has its own customer profile.

Fashion

Classic -- While every internationally known designer worth his or her weight in Shantung silk has a boutique in London, the best buys are on the sturdy English styles that last forever.

Cutting Edge -- Currently, the most cutting-edge shopping area in London is Conduit Street, W1, in Mayfair (Tube: Oxford Circus or Green Park). Once known for its dowdy airline offices, it is now London's smartest fashion street. Trendy shops are opening between Regent Street and the "blue-chip" boutiques of New Bond Street. Current stars include Vivienne Westwood, 44 Conduit St., W1 (tel. 020/7434-1109; www.viviennewestwood.com), who has left her punk origins behind and is now the grande dame of English fashion. See below for her flagship store. Krizia, 24-25 Conduit St., W1 (tel. 020/7491-4987; www.krizia.net), the fashion rage of Rome since the 1950s, displays not only Krizia's clothing lines, but her luxury home goods as well.

For muted fashion elegance, Yohji Yamamoto, 14-15 Conduit St., W1 (tel. 020/7491-4129), is hard to beat, and Issey Miyake, 52 Conduit St., W1 (tel. 020/7851-4620; www.isseymiyake.com), is the Japanese master of minimalism.

Vintage & Secondhand -- Note that there's no VAT refund on used clothing.

Filofax

All major department stores sell Filofax supplies, but for the full range (and a shopping experience), check out a Filofax store. They also have good sales; calendars for the next year go on sale very early the previous year (about 10 months in advance), so you can stock up and save.

Food

English food has come a long way, and it's worth enjoying and bringing home. Don't miss the Food Halls in Harrods. Consider the Fifth Floor at Harvey Nicks if Harrods is too crowded -- it isn't the same, but it'll do. Also check out the internationally famous Fortnum & Mason food emporium.

Music

Collectors should browse Notting Hill because there are a handful of good shops near the Notting Hill Gate Tube stop. Also browse Soho in the Wardour Street area, near the Tottenham Court Road Tube stop. Sometimes dealers show up at Covent Garden on the weekends.

Sporting Goods

Harrods has a surprising collection of sporting goods, including everything you'll need for a polo match.

Tea

Of course, don't forget to visit Fortnum & Mason for tea as well.