Houses of Parliament & Big Ben

The image of the Palace of Westminster (the official name for the building containing the Houses of Parliament) and its clocktower known as Big Ben (to everyone except pedants, who will tell you that Big Ben is in fact the name of the bell, not the tower) has become an icon of icons. It is the scene most evocative of the capital's timeless nature, and yet all is not as it seems. Although the site has been in use for almost 1,000 years -- first as a royal palace, and then from the 16th century onward as the seat of Parliament -- most of what you see dates only from the mid-19th century. It was designed in a deliberately medieval-looking, "Gothic Revival" style to replace an earlier structure that burned down in 1834. There are, however, much older sections hidden within, including the 11th-century Westminster Hall, which still boasts its 14th-century hammerbeam roof, and the 14th-century Jewel Tower .

On Saturdays throughout the year and during the summer recess (when the politicians are on vacation), you can take a guided tour of the buildings, which takes in various places of interest in the vast 1,000-room complex, including Westminster Hall, the Royal Gallery, and the Queen's Robing Room, where the monarch gets ready for her annual speech to parliament. You are also allowed to pop into the House of Commons chamber itself, where the country's 650 elected MPs (Members of Parliament) come to argue over the latest legislation, as well as the secondary chamber, the House of Lords. To see British democracy in (for want of a better word) action, will probably involve a fair bit of waiting around. When the House is sitting -- Monday to Thursday and some Fridays during the parliamentary seasons -- line up outside the Cromwell Green visitor entrance, usually for a couple of hours (generally less for the Lords). Tickets are allocated on a first come, first served basis. Don't expect any great rhetorical fireworks, however. Most debates are sparsely attended, jargon-heavy, and quite boring -- that initial "I'm in the House of Commons" buzz aside.

Frustratingly, tickets for the one proper debate of the week, Prime Minister's Questions, when the leader of the country and the Leader of the Opposition hurl often childish political insults at each other to a pantomime chorus of cheers and boos, have to be arranged in advance, by contacting your embassy or MP.

Across the street is the Jewel Tower, Abingdon St. (tel. 020/7222-2219; www.english-heritage.org.uk), one of only two surviving buildings from the medieval Palace of Westminster. Despite its name, don't expect to see any jewels. Although originally built in 1365 to house Edward III's treasure-trove, the tower today holds only an exhibition on the history of Parliament. It is open daily from 10am to 5pm April to October and 10am to 4pm November to March. Admission is £3.20 for adults, £2.70 for students and seniors, and £1.60 for children.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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