St. John

Frommer's Review

Located in a former smokehouse just north of Smithfield Market, this air-conditioned, canteenlike dining room is the restaurant of choice for carnivores. It is a showcase for the talents of owner/chef Fergus Henderson, a leader in the offal movement, which advocates the use of all animal parts in cuisine. In true British tradition, he uses the entire animal -- we're talking neck, trotters, tail, liver, heart, the works. It's called nose-to-tail cookery. But don't think you'll be served warmed-over haggis: The food is excellent and flavor-packed. The grilled lamb chops, garnished with sliced pig's tongue, bacon, salsify, and dandelion, are matchless. Roast bone marrow appears with a parsley salad, and pork chops are called pig chops. It's hard these days to find an eel, bacon, and clam stew, but you'll discover one here. French wines wash it all down.

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