St. John

"Nose to tail eating" characterizes Fergus Henderson's no-nonsense approach. All parts of the animal are used -- neck, tongue, trotters, tail, liver, and heart -- to produce dishes for which devotees travel miles: smoked sprats with potato and horseradish; potted beef and pickled prunes; or, for the truly dedicated, roast bone marrow and parsley salad. It's a seasonally led menu -- in winter Gloucester Old Spot pork chop with bitter chard will keep out the cold. The ingredients are the best, the cooking is superb, and the dish is what it says on the menu. The restaurant is a plain, whitewashed room in a former smokery. Other pluses are a bar for a thoroughly British "elevenses" or a quick lunch, an excellent wine list, and baked goods to take home. There's a sister restaurant in Spitalfields, St. John Bread & Wine, 94-96 Commercial St., E1 (tel. 020/7251-0848; www.stjohnbreadandwine.com; Tube: Liverpool St.).

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