Frommer's Review
In an 1830 brick-fronted town house (which supposedly housed John Constable's art studio for a brief period), this informal, cozy restaurant is a pleasant place to enjoy a well-prepared lunch or dinner. Some critics claim that Alastair Little is the best chef in London, but lately he's been buried under the avalanche of new talent. Actually, Little is not often here; he spends a good deal of time at other enterprises. The talented Sue Lewis is usually in charge. Style is modern European with a slant toward Italian. The menu changes daily. Starters are always tantalizing, including the roast pear and Pecorino cheese salad or Tuscan chestnut soup with Capezzena oil. Main dishes show skill and a wise use of market-fresh ingredients, as evoked by such dishes as roast breast and braised leg of pheasant with beet root and roast celeriac or the rump of lamb with artichokes and French beans. Roasted cod comes in a mussel sauce and is quite delightful. For dessert, you can select an array of British cheeses or order such classics as a chocolate and apricot tart with crème fraîche. Ever have olive-oil cake? It's served here with a winter-fruit compote.
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