Gay Hussar

This much-loved, well-established Soho institution (it was founded in 1953) is as close to the restaurants of the "good old days" as you'll find. It may not be quite the hotbed of political and journalistic intrigue that it once was, but the wood-paneled walls covered in political caricatures, and the sight of the odd Member of Parliament indulging in (yes) a long, boozy lunch, are still refreshingly politically incorrect. A loyal waiting staff has been serving pretty much the same dishes for decades from a thoroughly traditional Hungarian menu of goulash soup; smoked salmon and blinis; roast goose with red cabbage and Hungarian-style potatoes (i.e. well spiced); venison goulash; poppy seed strudel; and Eszterhazy chocolate and raspberry gateau. And don't forget to try the Hungarian wines. The Gay Hussar may no longer set the world on fire, but it's still a pretty good restaurant.

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