Le Gavroche

There may be new kids on the block, new cuisines, and new young chefs, but Le Gavroche remains the number-one choice in London for classical French cuisine from Michel Roux, Jr., son of the chef who founded the restaurant in 1966. The famous cheese soufflé is still there, alongside hot foie gras on a crisp duck pancake with cinnamon. Also on a masterly menu: Rich loin of venison with walnut gnocchi and bitter chocolate sauce, and desserts including apricot and Cointreau soufflé. The cheese board is exemplary. It's all beautifully presented and served with style. The wine list is a masterclass in top French wines, and is kind to the purse as well on lesser-known varieties. It all takes place in a comfortable, conventional basement dining room that may be too old-fashioned for some, but which perfectly sets the scene for a truly classic meal.

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