Frommer's Review
Critics say it's a triumph of tradition over taste, but as far as seafood in London goes, this is a tried-and-true favorite, thanks to an excellent menu with moderately priced dishes, a central location, and a charming staff. This place has a cluttered entrance leading to a crowded bar where you can sip fine wines and, from September to April, enjoy oysters. The oyster bar is run by Simon Parker-Bowles, Camilla's ex-brother-in-law. In the faux-Dickensian dining room, you can choose from a long menu of fresh seafood dishes, which changes monthly depending on what is in season. Starters are vibrant, yet earthy fare, including Dorset crab salad, potted shrimp with wholemeal toast, and pan-fried foie gras with apple purée. The chefs are at the top of their form in turning out such mains as seafood platters, filet of halibut with a mussel veloute, or grilled Dover sole with hollandaise sauce. Meat dishes are also superb, including rump of lamb with roast garlic polenta or steak tartare. To finish, opt for the gingerbread and butter pudding or a rich chocolate and cherry trifle.
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