Gordon Ramsay

Whatever may be happening in the fiery chef's empire elsewhere, a meal here remains one of London's great pleasures. From the moment you walk in the door, you are cosseted, and made to feel special. The menu is changing under head chef Clare Smyth -- someone to take note of -- while retaining the subtlety and delicacy of the master. Try, for example, ravioli of lobster, langoustine, and salmon with a lemongrass and chervil velouté, or sautéed foie gras with roasted veal sweetbreads. The emphasis is on retaining the essential flavors of top ingredients while delivering exquisite tastes. This is a top restaurant with complex dishes that reflect its reputation: sea bass with oyster beignet and caviar velouté; wild venison with celery braised with truffle, pear, and smoked pork belly. The wine list is masterly; the sommelier quietly knowledgeable. A rare experience.

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