Frommer's Review
Rowley Leigh, the chef here, has attracted a devoted following of regulars. But word of his delicious cuisine is spreading, and now more and more visitors are rushing here to sample some of his signature dishes. For starters, try the risotto verde with mozzarella and roast peppers or the pickled herring salad with boiled eggs and potatoes. Grilled wild boar chops with polenta and herbs is another specialty. Also look for Leigh's innovative seasonal dishes. The chef has a marvelous way with grouse, venison, roast partridge, and sea bass. He grills scallops to golden perfection, and goat-cheese mousse and olives enhance even the simplest chicken dish. For dessert, you can take delight in the grilled pineapple with chili syrup (you heard that right) and coconut ice cream or the hot, bitter chocolate mousse with coffee ice cream. Everybody from pop stars to Kensington dowagers flocks to this animated, noisy bistro. The set lunch is one of the best values in the area. Save room for the steamed chocolate pudding with custard.
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