Frommer's Review
Gordon Ramsay is the hottest chef in London today. In addition to his Chelsea restaurant, called Gordon Ramsay, he now rules the eatery at staid, traditional Claridge's hotel, legendary since 1860, when Queen Victoria stopped in for tea with the Empress Eugenie. The famed dining room, with its Art Deco decor, still retains many of its original Victorian architectural features, but the cuisine is hardly the same. Victoria most definitely wasn't served an amuse-bouche of pumpkin soup dribbled with truffle oil and studded with truffles.
Although the menu changes frequently, a memorable culinary highlight began with such starters as crispy Gloucester pork belly with sautéed langoustines, purée of Savoy cabbage, and quail's eggs. Whoever thought celeriac risotto with toasted pine nuts and Reggiano parmesan could taste so good? Dishes are always inventive, including steamed line-caught sea bass with roasted salsify and vanilla jus and braised Cornish turbot with Oscietra caviar and coriander sauce. A rich, meaty dish -- perhaps to be appreciated by a budding Henry VIII -- is West Country pork cheeks cooked in honey and cloves and served with braising juices. Desserts are always a surprise and always a bit different perhaps from what you've had before -- peanut butter parfait with milk mousse and cherry sauce or assiette of pineapple three ways (ravioli, bavarois, and Tatin).
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