97km (60 miles) S of Sparta; 340km (210 miles) S of Athens
In the Middle Ages, Monemvassia was nicknamed "the Gibraltar of Greece" because of its strategic importance overlooking the East-West sea routes. Centuries of decline followed and Monemvassia had become a virtual ghost town by the early 20th century, remembered largely for its once-famous sweet wine, Malmsey. Today, this rocky island just off the easternmost tip of the Peloponnese has a new lease on life: For some years, wealthy foreigners and Greeks have been buying and restoring old houses here. Furthermore, word is getting out that in addition to its medieval fortress, handsome churches, and drop-dead sunsets, Monemvassia has several of the most stylish small hotels in the Peloponnese (and increasingly good restaurants). Consequently, Monemvassia draws visitors year-round; I've made several spur-of-the-moment midwinter trips here only to find both the hotels and restaurants crowded.
In addition to independent travelers, an increasing number of round-the-Peloponnese bus tours stop here for an hour or two. Try to arrive in the late afternoon or evening, so that early the next morning you can have a swim, relax, and do your sightseeing before the first tour bus arrives.
Although Monemvassia is an island, it's connected to the mainland by a causeway across which you can drive or stroll. Once you step through the massive Venetian Gate that is Monemvassia's only entrance (mone emvasis means "one entrance" in Greek), you're in a separate world. Cars are banned here -- a wise decision, since the only approximation of a street on "the rock" is barely wide enough for two donkeys (which bring in supplies) to squeeze past each other.
