Hotels in Monemvassia

I always want to stay on the rock -- especially at full moon -- so that I can enjoy wandering along the winding stone lanes in the evening. This is a very popular destination for both Greek and foreign visitors. If you arrive on a summer weekend without a reservation, count yourself lucky to find a wretched room for 200€. If at all possible, avoid weekends and arrive here early in the day to be sure to get your room. Records of reservations have been known to disappear, even after several phone calls to double-check. As always, try to get a written confirmation and hold on to it.

If you can't find a room on the rock, a number of new hotels on the mainland are in and around Gefyra, including the 23-unit Flower of Monemvassia (Louloudi tis Monemvasias; tel. 27320/61-395; fax 27320/61-391). Most of its rooms come with minifridges and with partial views (across a road) of the beach and of the rock; doubles from 60€. If you want serious luxury and a distant view of the rock, check out the 27-unit Kinternia (www.kinterniahotel.gr; tel. 2730/66-300), which opened in the hamlet of Agios Stefanos, 7km (4 1/3 miles) southeast of Monemvassia, in 2010. The Kisternia occupies a restored and greatly expanded 13th-century Byzantine mansion, whose cistern gives the hotel its name, and provides a gorgeous pool beside which you can dine. There are 16 hectares (40 acres) of vineyards and gardens, a full-service spa, an infinity pool, beds smothered with masses of chubby pillows, and towels so thick you need to do Pilates to pick them up. Doubles from 260€, suites from 450€.

Closer to the rock, the Hotel Pramataris (www.pramatarishotel.gr; tel. 27320/61-833) is on the seashore, with 20 units, including two apartments, and has views of the rock; doubles from 70€; you probably won't remember your simple room here, but you will remember the views. On the causeway itself, the elegant 21-unit Lazareto (www.lazareto.gr; tel. 27320/61-991) re-creates a traditional cluster of houses, with rooms with traditional weavings -- and modern Jacuzzis. A large garden and vineyard behind the tall stone walls keep out most traffic noise and the spa should be finished by 2012. Rates for 2012 were not fixed at press time, but doubles probably run from 160€. The Theophano Guesthouse (www.theophano.gr; tel. 27320/61-212), with efficiency apartments, now also operates the 16-room Theophano Art Hotel (doubles from 100€), which opened in 2011 with all the modern conveniences, all-organic breakfasts, and a quiet location. Next door is another Monemvasia newcomer, the new four-suite, 12-room Likinia Hotel (www.likinia.gr; tel. 27320/61-939), spread through four stone buildings. Rooms have air-conditioning for the summer, goose-feather duvets for the winter, Molton-Brown toiletries, and the usual amenities; doubles from 120€. Some hotels on the rock have Wi-Fi, and some do not, so if this is important to you, be sure to check on availability. And remember: All prices go up on summer weekends.