The line of small shops along Ritsos Street, the main drag on "the rock," have thus far avoided the infestation of T-shirts and cheap museum reproductions so common elsewhere. Ioanna Angelatou's shop, next to the Byzantion hotel, has been here more than 20 years; it sells the deep-blue glassware made in Greece, jewelry, and well-done reproductions of antique woodcarvings and copper. Just inside Monemvassia's gate, Costas Lekakis has a good selection of books in English, including R. Klaus and U. Steinmuller's excellent guide Monemvassia (6€). Kelari has a good selection of wines, including examples from the local Vatistas vineyards. Takis Papadakis at Kelari can often give you information on local rentals of rooms and small apartments (tel. 27320/61-695).
