The world's northernmost capital, Reykjavík is a captivating mix of the parochial and the worldly. It's Iceland's main entry portal; its political, economic, and cultural center; and home to most of its population. Reykjavík's ambience is simultaneously that of a city-like town and a town-like city. As Iceland's all-around nerve center, Reykjavík is the logical starting point for visitors.
For most of its history, Reykjavík suffered a backward reputation among European capitals, but this has only intensified its heady sensation of newfound wealth and authority. Thirty years ago, no one even dreamed Reykjavík would become an international arbiter of hipness, especially in music and nightlife.
Despite its reputation for wild nights, Reykjavík by day is the most subdued of European capitals. Its cosmopolitan edge seems at odds with its squat, boxy architecture. It almost feels wrong to leave the world's problems so far behind: Iceland's urban life is virtually free of crime, homelessness, and pollution. Reykjavík is committed to sustainable development, with aggressive tree planting, home heating and electrical systems powered by underground hot springs -- that faint eggy smell in bathrooms is a natural by-product -- and a few buses running on hydrogen fuel (look for steam emissions from the roof). One night in September 2006, the entire city agreed to turn off all lights for 30 minutes simultaneously. The stars weren't out that night, but the point was still made: Reykjavíkians honor the romance of their town's original, natural state.
Reykjavík hosts a multitude of festivals. Most events take place outside of summer, belying the widespread perception of Iceland as a one-season destination.
