One of the best ways to pass an evening in Sitges is to walk the waterfront esplanade, have a leisurely dinner, then retire at about 11pm to one of the open-air cafes for a nightcap and some serious people-watching.
If you're straight, you may have to hunt to find a bar that isn't predominantly gay. There are so many gay bars, in fact, that a map is distributed pinpointing their locales. Nine of them are concentrated on Carrer Sant Bonaventura in the center of town, a 5-minute walk from the beach (near the Museu Romàntic).
Mediterráneo, Sant Bonaventura 6 (no phone), is the largest gay disco/bar. Located in a restored 1690s house just east of the Plaça d'Espanya, it sports a formal Iberian garden and sleek modern styling. Upstairs are pool tables and a covered terrace. On summer nights, the place is overflowing.
Other gay bars include Bourbon's, Sant Bonaventura 13 (tel. 93-894-33-47), with a predominantly youngish crowd, and El Candil, Carrer de la Carreta 9 (tel. 93-894-78-36), with a wider age range and a darkroom and video shows. El Horno, Joan Tarrida 6 (tel. 93-894-09-09), with slight leather overtones that grow more prominent as the night progresses, opens earlier, at 5:30pm, and also features a darkroom.
Another of the town's most popular nightspots is Ricky's Disco, Sant Pau 25 (tel. 93-894-96-81), which charges a cover of 10€ to 12€ ($13-$16). This place caters to an international mix of gay and straight visitors. It's set back from the beach on a narrow street noted for its inexpensive restaurants and folkloric color. Trailer, Angel Vidal 36 (tel. 93-894-17-46), is the hottest club in town and the best place to end the night. Its foam parties are infamous along the coast. The 10€ ($13) cover includes a drink. It closes at 5:30am.