Shopping

You haven't seen Valencia until you've headed for the 1920s Mercado Central on the Plaza del Mercado in the heart of the city. It stands across the street from La Lonja, the silk exchange that dates from 1482 and is one of the most splendid examples of secular Gothic architecture in Spain. After a visit to this "central market," you'll never want to shop in a supermarket again. The market lies in a grand railway station-like building, with stained glass no less. It sells everything: blood sausage, ungracefully nude poulets, saffron, bomba rice for paella, even Marcona almonds. To see the women of Valencia shop for food is reason enough to go.

If you're in Valencia on a Sunday morning, head for the open-air market at Plaza Redonda (literally "round square"). Found near the cathedral, it hawks traditional Valencian handcrafts, including ceramics, ironwork, silver items, and inlaid marquetry. Vendors also sell crafts from other regions of Spain, even Morocco. The best shopping streets include Plaza del Ayuntamiento, Calle Don Juan de Austria, Calle Colón, and the streets thereabouts. For a peek at what aging Valencian duennas are storing in their cellars and attics, head for the rastro (flea market) on Avenida de Suecia near the soccer stadium, beginning around 8:30am every Sunday. The city's largest department store, El Corte Inglés, Calle Pintor Sorolla 26 (tel. 96-315-95-00), sells a wide array of anything you might want, including local handicrafts, crystal and porcelain, and other luxury items.

The Mercado de Colón in the heart of the city is a Gaudí-inspired fantasy that is a hub of many modern cafes, restaurants, craft shops, and flower stalls. The best food shop here is Manglano, 5 Mercado de Colón (tel. 96-352-8854), decorated in a Belle Epoque (turn-of-the-20th-century) style. Several streets around the market also attract the crowds, notably a locally famous chocolatier, Cacao Sampaka, 19 Calle Conde de Salvatierra (tel. 96-353-4062). Ever had a balsamic vinegar-flavored bonbon?

Valencia is home to some of Spain's best pottery. The region produces Lladró porcelain, Manises stoneware, and glassware. Local craftspeople take pride in their azulejos -- brightly colored ceramic tiles, first developed during the Muslim occupation of Andalusia.

Some of the best of Valencian crafts are sold at Nela, 2 Calle San Vicente (tel. 96-392-30-23). For the best in antique ceramic tiles and socarrat pottery, head for Taller Artesania Yuste, 5 Plaza del Miracle del Mocadoret (tel. 63-037-36-03).

One of the best outlets for women's fashion along the eastern coast of Spain is Linda Vuela a Rio, Gran Via Marques del Turia 31 (tel. 96-351-77-46).

For more avant-garde fashion, head for Tonuca, Calle Felix Pizcueta 20 (tel. 96-394-05-55). On the cutting edge, Tonuca Belloch-Burguera is the most avant-garde Valencian designer.

Everything from Chinese painted mirrors to Moroccan poufs is sold at a center for interior design, Zara Home, 15 Carrer Jorge Juan (tel. 96-351-32-52).

On a street filled with antique dealers, two of the best art galleries in Valencia are within walking distance of each other: My Name's Lolita, 7 Carrer Avellanas (tel. 96-391-13-72), and Galeria Valle Orti, 22 Carrer Avellanas (tel. 96-392-33-77).

One worthy detour is to Manises, 9km (5 1/2 miles) west of Valencia. It's known as a center for ceramics and for its azulejos. As a pottery center, Manises dates from the Middle Ages. Representatives from all the major kingdoms of Europe came here to purchase the wares, which are characterized by their distinctive blue-and-white patterns. The town is packed with ceramics factories and retail outlets. From the center of Valencia, several buses run frequently to Manises.

Another good stop for the serious shopper is nearby Paterna, about 6.5km (4 miles) northwest of Valencia off C-234. (It's signposted all the way.) It has dozens of pottery stores with prices far below those in the center of Valencia.

Continuing farther north to the province of Castellón, you'll find the towns of Alcora and Onda. They're justly celebrated for their pottery, much of which is reasonably priced because the "middleperson" is often eliminated. In addition to pottery, several shops in Onda sell some of the best-crafted azulejos in this part of Spain. Alcora is 19km (12 miles) northwest of Castellón de la Plana along the C-232; Onda, 15km (9 miles) west along the C-223.

In the city of Valencia itself, head for Lladró, Calle Poeta Querol 9 (tel. 96-351-16-25), where prices are consistent with those at other retail outlets. Or seek out the shop adjacent to the factory, Casa de Lladró, Carretera de Alborraya s/n, in the suburb of Tavernas Blanques (tel. 90-021-10-10; www.lladro.com), 5km (3 miles) north of the city center. The factory retail outlet sells slightly damaged or irregular pieces at lower prices. To visit the factory itself, call 1 month in advance.