Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- Warsaw's Okecie airport (tel. 022/650 42 20; www.lotnisko-chopina.pl), sometimes called by its formal name, Frederyk Chopin Airport, is 10km (6 miles) from the city center. Most major international carriers use the main terminal, while budget airlines arrive and depart from a separate but nearby terminal. The main terminal is well served by a tourist information office, automated teller machines, and a Ruch kiosk where you can buy tickets for the trams and buses. To get to the center of the city, take bus no. 175, which makes the run in about half an hour. During the night, bus no. 611 makes a similar run. Tickets cost 2.40 z (80¢/45p). You'll need to buy an extra ticket for your bags. Taxis make the run to the center for around 40 z ($13/£7) -- the exact fare depending on the destination.

By Train -- Major international and domestic trains arrive and depart from Warsaw's Central Station (Warszawa Centralna, Al. Jerozolimskie 54; tel. 022/620 45 12; www.pkp.com.pl), located in the heart of the city in Sródmiescie (just across the street from the Marriott Hotel). Centralna is, to put it mildly, confusing. It's a vast 1970s concrete jungle, filled with underground passageways that seemingly lead nowhere and misleadingly marked stairways that will have you coming and going, and getting no place at all. Fortunately, the officials at Polish rail have cleaned up the station in recent years, and they've even added some English-speaking ticket sellers to the international ticketing counter. Centralna is well served by taxis, tram lines, and buses; the only trick is finding which stairway to use to locate the tram going in the direction you want to travel.

By Bus -- Warsaw's main bus station (Dworzec Centralny PKS; tel. 022/94 33) is situated in the city center (Sródmiescie), about 1km (1/2 mile) to the west of the Centralna train station along Al. Jerozolimskie. The station handles all of the bus traffic to and from western Europe as well as most major Polish routes. The station is well served by tram, bus, or taxi to anywhere in the city. The easiest way to get between the bus and train stations is to grab any tram heading in the direction you want to go and ride three stops.

By Car -- As Poland's capital city, all roads lead to Warsaw. You'll have no problem finding your way here. You may be surprised, though, by how long it takes to get here, and once you're here by the sheer volume of traffic. Once you've found your hotel, stow the car and use the trams and taxis.

City Layout

Warsaw is cut in two by the Vistula River (Wisa), but nearly all of the interesting things to see and do lie on the river's western side. The heart of the city, and where you'll find most of the hotels, restaurants, and nightlife, is the central district known as Sródmiescie. With its huge avenues and acres of space between buildings, it's not particularly pedestrian-friendly. But trams scoot down the rails at an impressive speed and can whisk you around in a few minutes. The center of Sródmiescie is the intersection of Aleje Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Avenue) and Marszakowska street. The Old Town (Stare Miasto) lies about 1km (1/2 mile) to the north. The best way to find it on foot is to follow the street Nowy Swiat, which intersects with Al. Jerozolimskie, and continue along the "Royal Route," Krakowskie Przedmiescie, which brings you to the Royal Castle, and the start of the Old Town. To the south of Jerozolimskie, along the Al. Ujazdowski, beginning at Plac Trzech Krzyzy, you'll find Warsaw's embassy district, and some of the city's swankiest shops, cafes, restaurants, and nightclubs. Farther to the south lies the enormous residential district of Mokotów, home to some half of the city's two million people. Across the Vistula from the Old Town is the up-and-coming residential district of Praga. This area has long been one of the poorest districts in Warsaw, but is starting to see something of a revival, primarily led by artists attracted by Praga's rock-bottom rents.

Getting Around

On Foot -- Warsaw is a big city, so walking is only an option within specific areas, such as the Old Town or in Sródmiescie. For longer distances, you'll want to use public transportation or taxis.

By Tram -- Trams trundle down Warsaw's enormous avenues regularly from about 5am to 11pm, and are the best means for covering large distances quickly and cheaply. Tickets costs 2.40 z (80¢/45p), and you can buy them from Ruch kiosks around town or almost any place near a tram stop that sells newspapers and cigarettes. You may have a hard time finding a place to buy a ticket in the evening, so buy several during the day and stock up. You can also buy reasonably priced long-term tickets: for 1 day (7 z/$2.30/£1.20), 3 days (12 z/$4/£2.20), and 1 week (24 z/$8/£4.30). The tram network will look highly confusing at first. Before trying to decipher the system on your own, ask at your hotel reception for specific directions and tram numbers.

By Bus -- Buses supplement the tram network and run pretty much the same hours and use the same ticketing system. The bus layout is even more confusing than the trams, so get specific directions to your destination and write the numbers down.

By Metro -- Warsaw has a small subway (metro) system, but you'll probably never use it or see it. There's only one line and it connects the center of town to the residential area of Mokotów. Tickets are the same as for the buses and trams, and must be validated before boarding the train.

By Taxi -- Taxis are a cheap and reliable way of getting from point A to point B. The meter starts at about 6 z ($2/£1.10) and will go up another 4 z ($1.35/.75p) for each mile or so. Expect to pay 15 z to 20 z for in-town destinations ($5-$6.65/£2.70-£3.50). Dishonest drivers have been a problem in the past, but the situation is improving. Nevertheless, only use clearly marked cabs, and always make sure the driver has switched on the meter.

By Bike -- Biking is not an option on Warsaw's heavily trafficked, dirty, and dangerous roads. Marked bikeways are few and far between.

Visitor Info

The main tourist information office is the MUFA Warsaw Tourist Information Center, situated just at the entrance to the Old Town, near to the Royal Castle (Zamkovy 1/3; tel. 022/635 18 81; www.wcit.waw.pl). The Warsaw city authorities (tel. 022/94 31; www.warsawtour.pl) also maintain a helpful network of tourist information agencies at entry points to the city, including the airport, central train station, and Old Town. You'll almost always find an English speaker on hand to help with general directions and hotel advice, and provide maps and brochures.

Warszawa Centralna Train Station (May-Sept 8am-8pm; Oct-Apr 9am-6pm)

Frederyk Chopin Airport (May-Sept 8am-8pm; Oct-Apr 9am-6pm)

Krakowskie Przedmiescie 39 (Old Town) (May-Sept 8am-8pm; Oct-Apr 9am-6pm)

Marzurkas Travel (Duga 8/14; tel. 022/389-41-83) offers daily 3-hour sightseeing trips with pickups from all of the major hotels. The 140 z ($46/£25) fee per person is steep, but if you've only got a day, it's the best way to cover ground (given the fact that Warsaw so large and spread out). The tour includes the Old Town and Jewish ghetto area, and finishes up with a rousing church organ concert (but alas no lunch!)

Warsaw is blessed with a number of English-language publications that include cultural listings, restaurant reviews, and general information. Look out particularly for the cheeky monthly Warsaw Insider (available at hotels and some restaurants) and very comprehensive Warsaw in Your Pocket, published every 2 months.