Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- Warsaw's Okecie airport (tel. 022/650-42-20; www.lotnisko-chopina.pl), also called Frederyk Chopin Airport, is 10km (6 1/4 miles) from the center. The airport is in the midst of a massive rebuilding phase. For the moment most international flights still arrive at the old terminal, Terminal 1. Domestic flights arrive at and depart from a smaller domestic terminal downstairs and around the corner from the main terminal. Most of the tourist services, including tourist information, rental cars, and ATMs, are located in Terminal 1 -- but this is likely to change as the new buildings come on stream. To get to the center, take bus no. 175, which makes the run in about half an hour. Use bus no. 611 at night. Tickets cost 2.40zl ($1/60p) and can be purchased at news agents or at Ruch or Relay kiosks. Taxi fare to the center averages 40zl ($17/£11) -- the exact fare depending on the destination. Be sure to choose only cabs that are clearly marked and refuse any offers of rides or assistance you may get while inside the terminal or just outside the door. These are likely to be rip-offs.

By Train -- Major international and domestic trains arrive at and depart from Warsaw's Central Station, Warszawa Centralna, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (tel. 022/94-36; online timetable: www.rozklad-pkp.pl), located in the heart of the city in Sródmiescie (just across the street from the Marriott Hotel). Centralna is, to put it mildly, confusing. It's a vast 1970s concrete jungle, filled with underground passageways that seemingly go nowhere and misleadingly marked stairways that will have you coming and going (and getting nowhere at all). Once you get off the train, head upstairs to the main hall, which has a helpful tourist information office, as well as train information and ticketing windows. Centralna is well served by taxis, trams and buses; the only trick is finding which stairway to use to locate the tram going in the direction you want to travel.

By Bus -- Most international and InterCity domestic buses arrive at Warsaw's West Bus Station, Dworzec Autobusowy Warszawa Zachodnia (tel. 0300/30-01-30; www.pks.warszawa.pl). The station is located just outside the city center (Sródmiescie), about 2km (1 1/4 mile) to the west of Centralna train station along Al. Jerozolimskie. To travel between the bus and train stations, use bus no. 405, 517, or 127. Tickets cost 2.40zl ($1/60p) and can be purchased at Ruch or Relay news agents. A taxi ride to a central destination will cost about 20zl ($8.70/£5.40).

By Car -- As Poland's capital city, all roads lead to Warsaw. You'll have no problem finding your way here. You may be surprised, though, by how long it takes and, once you're here, by the sheer volume of traffic. Once you've found your hotel, stow the car and use trams and taxis.

City Layout

Warsaw is cut in two by the Vistula River (Wisla), but nearly all of the interesting things to see and do lie on the river's western side. The heart of the city, and where you'll find most of the hotels, restaurants, and nightlife, is the central district known as Sródmiescie. With its huge avenues and acres of space between buildings, it's not particularly pedestrian-friendly. But trams scoot down the rails at an impressive speed and can whisk you around in a few minutes. The center of Sródmiescie is the intersection of Aleje Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Ave.) and Marszalkowska street. The Old Town (Stare Miasto) lies about 2km (1 1/2 mile) to the north. The best way to find it on foot is to follow the street Nowy Swiat, which intersects with Al. Jerozolimskie, and continue along the "Royal Route," Krakowskie Przedmiescie, which brings you to the Royal Castle and the start of the Old Town. To the south of Jerozolimskie, along the Al. Ujazdowskie, beginning at Plac Trzech Krzyzy, you'll find Warsaw's embassy district, and some of the city's swankiest shops, cafes, restaurants, and nightclubs. Farther to the south lies the enormous residential district of Mokotów, home to some half of the city's two million people. Across the Vistula from the Old Town is the up-and-coming industrial district of Praga. This area has long been one of the poorest in Warsaw, but has seen a revival of sorts, spurred by Praga's rock-bottom rents.

Getting Around

On Foot -- Warsaw is a big city, so walking is only an option within specific areas, such as the Old Town or in Sródmiescie. For longer distances, you'll want to use public transportation or taxis.

By Tram -- Trams trundle down Warsaw's enormous avenues regularly from about 5am to 11pm, and are the best means for covering large distances quickly and cheaply. Tickets costs 2.40zl ($1/60p), and you can buy them from Ruch or Relay kiosks around town or almost any place near a tram stop that sells newspapers and cigarettes (ask for bilety, or tickets). You may have a hard time finding a place to buy a ticket in the evening, so buy several during the day and stock up. You can also buy reasonably priced long-term tickets: for 1 day (7.20zl/$3.10/£1.95), 3 days (12zl/$5.20/£3.25), and 1 week (24zl/$10/£6.50). Riding without a ticket is possible but risky. Fines start at 120zl ($52/£32) if you're caught. The tram network will look highly confusing at first. Before trying to decipher the system on your own, ask at your hotel reception for specific directions and tram numbers.

By Bus -- Buses supplement the tram network and run pretty much the same hours and use the same ticketing system. The bus layout is even more confusing than the trams, so get specific directions to your destination and write the numbers down.

By Metro -- Warsaw has a small subway (metro) system, but you'll probably never use it or see it. There's only one line and it connects the center of town to the residential area of Mokotów. Tickets are the same as for the buses and trams, and must be validated before boarding the train.

By Taxi -- Taxis are a cheap and reliable way of getting from point A to point B. Expect to pay around 20zl ($8.70/£5.40) for in-town destinations and around 40zl ($17/£11) to get to the airport. Dishonest drivers have been a problem in the past, but the situation is improving. Nevertheless, use only clearly marked cabs, and always make sure the driver has switched on the meter.

By Bike -- Biking is not an option on Warsaw's heavily trafficked, dirty, and dangerous roads. Marked bikeways are few and far between.

Visitor Information

The Warsaw Tourist Office maintains three conveniently located information centers that can help with general directions, provide maps, and advise on hotels and restaurants. The main office is located in the Warszawa Centralna Train Station (tel. 022/94-31; www.warsawtour.pl; May-Sept daily 8am-8pm, Oct-Apr daily 9am-6pm). Two other branches are located at Frederyk Chopin Airport and at Krakowskie Przedmiescie 39, along the royal route to the Old Town. Another helpful office is the Warsaw Centre of Tourist Information, Zamkovy 1/3 (tel. 022/635-18-81), situated just at the entrance to the Old Town near the Royal Castle. They also have maps and brochures, and can help with things like getting concert tickets and renting a car.

Marzurkas Travel, Dluga 8/14 (tel. 022/389-41-83), offers daily 3-hour sightseeing trips with pickups from all of the major hotels. The 140zl ($61/£38) fee per person is steep, but if you've only got a day, it's the best way to cover ground (given the fact that Warsaw is so large and spread out). The tour includes the Old Town and Jewish ghetto area, and finishes up with a rousing church organ concert (but no lunch!). Warsaw City Tours, Marszalkowska 140 (tel. 022/826-71-00), offers a similarly priced 3-hour coach tour, with departures in the morning and the afternoon. You can book either at your hotel concierge.

Warsaw is blessed with a number of English-language publications that have cultural listings, restaurant reviews, and general information. Look out particularly for the cheeky monthly Warsaw Insider (available at hotels and some restaurants) and comprehensive Warsaw in Your Pocket, published every 2 months.