The constant lament of Yarmouth restaurateurs and shopkeepers is this: The summer tourists who steadily stream off the incoming ferries rarely linger long enough to appreciate the city before they mash the accelerator and speed off to higher-marquee venues along the coast.
There might be a reason for that. Yarmouth is a pleasant burg that offers some noteworthy historic architecture dating from the golden age of seafaring. But the town's not terribly unique, and thus not high on the list of places to spend a few days. It's a bit too big (pop. 7,800) to be charming, too small to generate urban buzz and vitality. It has the flavor of a handy pit stop more than a destination, though recent redevelopment efforts have spruced up the waterfront a bit and added evening entertainment during the summer months, a very welcome sign.
By all means plan to linger a few hours while awaiting the ferry (Portland-bound passengers could enjoyably spend the night here before their early morning departure) or to while away an afternoon when looping around the coast. Take the time to follow the self-guided walking tour, enjoy a meal, or wander around the waterfront, where efforts to coax it back from decrepitude have taken root.
