On any given night half the town seems to be packed into these two floors of plain, brightly lit dining rooms, yet the waitstaff never seems daunted by the din or the crowds. Pastas are homemade from organic ingredients, produce is market fresh, and the meat is from local farms. Daily specials include such local favorites as trippa (tripe) and grifi e polenta (chunks of veal stomach in polenta), but lighter fare is usually available, too, and specials often include eggs topped with fresh asparagus or tartufo (dried truffles), especially tasty when accompanied with a Pinot Grigio. The house wine is excellent, and the house grappa puts the perfect finish on a meal.