The emphasis here is on wine, with more than 30 choices available by the glass and hundreds by the bottle, and it’s accompanied by a tempting choice of small plates and meals. A huge selection of cheeses and salamis from local producers are available, as are many local favorites, such as baccalà in umido (salt-cod stew) and, in summer, pappa al pomodoro (a thick bread and tomato soup served at room temperature). The cluttered, bottle-lined room just off Piazza Grande is a nice hideaway on a chilly evening, and a few tables in the narrow lane outside are much in demand in warm weather.