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These days many Budapest kitchens are turning out modern versions of Hungarian classic dishes. But when Bock Bisztró opened in 2004, it was one of this method's pioneers. The force behind this restaurant, which is connected to the Corinthia Hotel, is executive chef Lajos Biró. The restaurant gets its name from Biró's partnership with József Bock, a leading winemaker in the southern Villány region, which is known for its full-bodied reds. You can expect a good selection of wine here, including more than two dozen wines from Bock's own winery. The rest of the wine on the extensive list comes from Hungary's other regions. The best way to start a meal here is with a few orders of Hungarian-style tapas, or a platter of mixed local charcuterie. The menu changes frequently, and always holds surprising flavor combinations (such as risotto with poppy seeds and calamari) or new takes on traditional dishes. Bock's "Big Beef Burger" has become a classic, and so has the "retro-style ox cheeks." The menu contains traditional Hungarian dishes like venison stew with porcini, and chicken paprikás with pasta made from curd cheese (the presentation, however, is not so traditional). The "bizarre" ice cream selection, which sometimes includes a tobacco flavor, is a nice way to end a meal, as is the kapros túrós lepény (curd cheese and dill cake). The live accordion music in the evenings might make you want to stay for an extra glass of wine. The Bock Bisztró empire has also expanded to include a location in Buda, and another location at Lake Balaton. Do make reservations well in advance.