Planning a trip to Campania

Getting Around

The Unico Travel Pass

Traffic might be bad in the region, but paying for public transportation just became a lot easier. With one ticket for the specific area you are visiting, you can board all forms of transportation, from trains and the Metro to buses and ferries. The "Unico" is offered in several denominations (usually 45 min., 90 min., 24 hr., and 3 days) and is for sale at stations as well as tobacconists and newsstands near transportation hubs.

Naples's Unico is the most complicated because you can choose between several zone (zones), with a U1 covering the historic district, Pozzuoli, and the island of Procida; U2 extending to Ercolano, Baia, and Ischia; U3 to Pompei; U4 Capua and Vicco Equense; and U5 encompassing Naples to Sorrento, the Amalfi Coast, and Salerno. U1 costs 1.60€ for the 90-minute version and 4.80€ for the 24-hour pass (3.20€ on Sun); U5 costs 4€ for the 90-minute version and 12€ for the 24-hour pass (6.30€ on Sun).

The Unico Campania 3T covers the whole region, including the Alibus shuttle from Naples's Capodichino Airport to the city center, plus public trains, buses, and funiculars on the mainland, Ischia, and Procida. To give you an idea, it includes the Circumvesuviana train to Pompei or Sorrento, the funicular and bus in Naples, as well as the SITA buses on the Amalfi Coast, the FS train to Benevento, and the local bus there. The pass is valid for 3 days, from the first stamp to midnight of the third day, and costs 20€.

The Unico Costiera covers all the towns along the Sorrento and Amalfi coasts, from Meta di Sorrento to Salerno. The best deals are the 24-hour pass and the 3-day pass (respectively 7.20€ and 18€), which also include one ride on the City Sightseeing tour buses between Amalfi and Ravello or Amalfi and Maiori. The Unico is also available in 45-minute and 90-minute increments, respectively 2.40€ and 3.60€. Any of the passes will allow you unlimited rides on SITA buses and the Circumvesuviana trains connecting Meta with Sorrento and stations in between.

For more information, visit www.unicocampania.it.

Public Transportation Strikes -- You might have heard it before -- even the U.S. travel advisory for Italy warns of it -- strikes occur in Italy and can hamper public transportation. However, they are a relatively rare occurrence, and planned walkouts are often canceled at the last minute because the parties reach an agreement. Should it actually happen, minimum service is guaranteed and alternate transportation is always made available. The bottom line is that strikes are no reason to forgo public transportation in favor of driving.

By Train

With easy connections between the region's major towns and the Vesuvian attractions of Herculaneum and Pompeii, the train is an excellent way to get around. Local trains are cheap and frequent and you don't need advance reservation: You can buy your ticket at the automatic machines inside the station and hop on the train. An added advantage is that the rail station is usually in the center of town, within walking distance from the major attractions and well connected by public transportation and taxis.

The national railway system, FS-Trenitalia (tel. 892021 from anywhere in Italy; www.trenitalia.it), serves the area together with local lines: Alifana (tel. 800-053939; www.alifana.it) covers Benevento and surrounding areas; Circumvesuviana (tel. 800-053939; www.vesuviana.it) connects Naples with the Vesuvian area including Ercolano, Pompei, Castellammare di Stabia, and Sorrento; and Metronapoli (tel. 800-568866; www.metro.na.it) connects Naples with Pozzuoli and the Phlegrean Fields.

National and regional lines serve most major tourist destinations, sometimes in parallel, with the result that even relatively small towns have two stations, one for the national railroad and one for the local line.

By Bus

Local bus companies operate throughout Campania, and are a handy resource particularly in hilly and mountainous areas where rail service isn't available. We recommend using the bus, for example, in the Amalfi Coast, where the frequent service offers a good alternative to driving. SITA schedules numerous runs between Salerno, Naples, and Sorrento, with extra lines between Amalfi, Positano, and Sorrento, as well as secondary lines from Amalfi and Sorrento to minor destinations along the Costiera. These provide not only convenient but also cheap transport, as you can buy a single pass valid on public transportation for the whole Costiera.

The leading bus operators in the region are SITA (tel. 089-053939; www.sitabus.it), serving the Sorrento peninsula and the Amalfi Coast; SEPSA (081-5525125; www.sepsa.it), serving Pozzuoli, Baia, Cuma, and Miseno, as well as Procida and Ischia; CTP (tel. 800-482644; www.ctpn.it), serving Naples and linking it with neighboring towns; AIR (tel. 0825-204250; www.air-spa.it), connecting the Avellino area with Naples; and CSTP (tel. 800-016659 or 089-487001; www.cstp.it), with buses in Salerno, Paestum, and the Cilento.

By Ferry

Ferries are a great way to get around this region's coastal destinations and, obviously, crucial to reaching its islands. They are a fantastic option particularly during the summer, when the narrow coastal roads become overly congested. Several companies connect the region's top destinations. Hydrofoil service is the fastest, but is suspended in winter and operates only between selected harbors -- chiefly Naples, Capri, Ischia, Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, and Salerno. Other options include large ferries with transport of vehicles, and smaller motorboats, which can reach smaller harbors. All companies charge similar rates for similar service. The only relevant difference is the time schedule.

Naples's two harbors -- Stazione Marittima, downtown, and Terminal Aliscafi, in Mergellina -- along with Salerno's are the region's main hubs, followed by Amalfi, Sorrento, and Pozzuoli. All offer multiple daily connections to the islands (Capri, Ischia, and Procida) and the smaller towns of the Amalfi Coast, including Positano.

Companies offering local service are Alilauro (tel. 081-4972222; www.alilauro.it), with hydrofoils to Ischia and Positano; Caremar (tel. 199-116655; www.caremar.it), with ferries and hydrofoils to Ischia, Capri, and Procida; LMP (tel. 081-7041913; www.consorziolmp.it), with hydrofoils to Sorrento; Medmar (tel. 081-3334411; www.medmargroup.it), with ferries to Ischia; Metrò del Mare (tel. 199-600700; www.metrodelmare.net ), with commuter-style service between Bacoli and Salerno, with intermediary stops in Pozzuoli, Naples, Vico Equense, Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi, and summer service to the islands; NLG (tel. 081-5520763; www.navlib.it), with hydrofoils to Capri; SNAV (tel. 081-4285555; www.snav.it), with hydrofoils to Ischia, Capri, and Procida; and Volaviamare (tel. 081-4972211; www.volaviamare.it), with fast boats between Naples, Sorrento, Amalfi, Positano, Salerno, Ischia, and Capri.

Companies offering minicruises and excursions are also great resources for moving around the region: We recommend Blue Cruises (tel. 081-4972222; www.blucruises.it) and Capitan Morgan (tel. 081-4972238; www.capitanmorgan.it).

By Limousine/Car Service & Taxi

A good alternative to renting a car is using a taxi or a car service -- make sure they use cars and minivans with air-conditioning (very important in summer), as well as trained, English-speaking drivers. Official taxis are at the airport and the train station. They are white and have a taxi sign on the roof, a city logo, and a card clearly detailing the official rates inside. The Municipality of Naples has established flat rates for major tourist destinations in the region. These rates are cheaper than if the meter was used, and you have to ask for them before departure. A round-trip to Herculaneum, with a 2-hour wait (during which you visit the ruins), is 70€; Pompeii and a 2-hour wait is 90€; a round-trip tour of the Amalfi Coast (Positano, Ravello, Amalfi, and Sorrento), for an entire day, is 220€; a round-trip to Mount Vesuvius, with a 2-hour wait, is 90€; round-trip to Baia (Scavi Archeologici) and Solfatara, with a 3-hour wait, is 85€; a tour of Naples is 70€.

The best companies are Radio Taxi Napoli (tel. 081-444444, 081-5555555, or 081-5564444; www.consorziotaxinapoli.it), Cooperativa Partenopea (tel. 081-5515151, or 081-5560202; www.radiotaxilapartenope.it), Radio Taxi La 570 (tel. 081-5707070; www.la570.it), and Consortaxi (tel. 081-202020). Taxis operate from the airport or various taxi stands at major destinations in and around the city. You can just go to one of these stands and grab a taxi, but book in advance for longer excursions.

Car services tend to be based on the Sorrento peninsula and Amalfi Coast. They are often cheaper than taxis, and drivers also act as guides. Car services we recommend are Sorrento Limo (www.sorrentolimo.com), Cuomo Limousine (www.carsorrento.it), and Paolo Bellantonio (www.bellantoniolimoservice.com), all based in Sorrento; Benvenuto Limos & Tours (www.benvenutolimos.com), based in Praiano; and Avellino Car Service (www.amedeoavellino.com), based in Vico Equense. We also like two private drivers: Francesco Marrapese (www.francescomarrapese.com) and Angelo (www.angelodriver.com).

Recommended providers in Naples are ANA Limousine Service, Piazza Garibaldi 73 (tel. 081-282000), and Italy Limousine (tel. 081-8080457 or 338-9681866; www.italylimousine.it).

By Car

Distances within Campania on the autostrada (limited-access, toll-express highways) are short: Naples to Salerno is about 30 minutes, and Salerno to Avellino only 20 minutes. Local routes tend to be much more congested, especially in the summer. Driving from Sorrento to Amalfi in the off season will take you less than an hour, but, with summer traffic, a 2-hour ride is more like it. Renting a motorcycle is a good way to get around as well.

Before renting a car or a motorcycle, though, know that Neapolitans have a well-earned reputation for aggressive and daring driving. You need to be a skilled and alert driver if you want to navigate Italian roads, which feature super-high speeds on the autostrade, super-narrow streets in the cities and towns, and one of the highest fatality rates in Europe. The situation gets worse in Naples and surrounding areas, where roads have guardrails only when the road is on a cliff and breaking speed limits is a local sport. Motor scooters are extremely prevalent and their drivers often do not obey traffic laws, so be mindful of them as they zoom and swerve between cars.

Also, driving is not cheap: In addition to high tolls on the autostrada, gasoline prices and parking fees are steep.

If you are planning to visit only major destinations in the region, you'll be better off using public transportation or hiring a car with a driver. However, driving will allow you to see much more of the countryside at your own pace, and it makes sense if you have the time to go exploring off the beaten path.

The two primary Italian car-rental companies are Maggiore (www.maggiore.it) and Travelcar (www.travelcar.it), but all major international car-rental companies operate here. In addition, you'll also find a number of local companies that rent cars (with or without driver) as well as scooters or motorcycles.

Rules of the Road -- In Italy, driving is on the right-hand side of the road. Unless otherwise marked, speed limits are 50kmph (31 mph) in urban areas, 90kmph to 110kmph (56-68 mph) in suburban areas, and 110kmph to 130kmph (68-81 mph) on limited-access highways. Speed limits for trailers, or towed vehicles, are lower: 70 kmph (43 mph) outside urban areas and 80 kmph (50 mph) on autostrada (100 kmph/62 mph for auto-caravans, or mobile homes). Automatic speed controls are installed on most roads, and you may be ticketed for driving faster than the posted limit.

It is mandatory to have your headlights on at all times outside urban areas and to use seat belts (front and rear) and age-appropriate car seats for children. High-beam headlights are sometimes used to signal to fellow drivers: If you are in the left passing lane and a driver flashes you from behind, you need to move out of the way. If an oncoming car signals you, it means that some danger is ahead, so slow down. If cars ahead of you put on their hazard lights, slow down: The traffic is completely stopped ahead. Horns cannot be used in urban areas except in an emergency.

Only motorcycles and scooters with engines above 150 cubic centimeters can use the autostrade. Helmet use is mandatory on all roads.

Drinking and driving is severely punished and there are fines for talking on your mobile phone while driving and for illegal parking.

Finding Your Way -- Road signs are posted with one sign about 1.6km (1 mile) before an exit, and then another right at the exit. Destination signs are blue for local roads and green for the toll highway. Destinations of cultural interest (such as monuments and archaeological areas) are posted on brown signs. Often, only the major town on a local road is marked, while smaller towns and villages on the way will not be posted.

Gasoline -- Gas stations are distributed along local roads at sensible intervals; however, large stretches of countryside are without stations. Pumps are generally open Monday to Saturday from 7 or 8am to 1pm and 3 or 4pm to 7 or 8pm (some have a self-service pump accessible after hours). On toll highways gas stations are positioned every 32 or 48km (20 or 30 miles) and are open 24 hours daily. Most cars take benzina senza piombo (unleaded fuel) or diesel (diesel or gasolio). Among diesel cars, only the newest models take the ecofuel labeled blu diesel (blue diesel) Be prepared for sticker shock every time you fill up -- even in a medium-size car -- as fuel is priced throughout the country at around 1.6€ per liter (diesel is a little cheaper, selling around 1.5€ per liter); a gallon equals about 3.8 liters. Make sure the pump registers zero before an attendant starts filling your tank: A common scam involves filling your tank before resetting the meter (so that you also pay the charges run up by the previous motorist), and it is still performed by some dishonest attendants.

Breakdowns & Assistance -- Roadside aid in Italy is excellent. For 24-hour emergency assistance, contact the national department of motor vehicles, Automobile Club d'Italia (tel. 803-116 toll-free within Italy; www.aci.it).

Parking -- Parking is always limited, particularly during the high season and near major attractions. Parking lots and areas are indicated with a square sign bearing a large white P on a blue background.

Parking spots are marked on the pavement with painted lines of various colors depending on the type of parking: Yellow is for reserved parking (deliveries, drivers with disabilities, taxis, and so on); white is free parking (very limited -- you won't find many of those on the Costiera); blue is paid parking. Rates vary as they are established by each municipality: Check the sign at the beginning and end of the stretch of parking spots and the sign on the automatic parking machines (usually located at a more or less reasonable distance from your parking spot; look for a gray/white box on a post or on a wall). Machines usually accept only coins, so come prepared (prices usually range 1€-3€ per hr.). The timer shows the current time, and as you insert money, it will show you what time you are paid through. When you're done, press the green button, collect the receipt, and place it on your dashboard in a visible spot. Do not even think about skipping this, particularly in tourist areas -- authorities are very vigilant.

The alternative is a private parking lot. These are usually located near the historic district (or attractions) in most towns. They are often underground, and attendants will park your car for you. Expect to pay 20€ to 50€ per day, depending on the location.

When to Go

April to June and September to October are generally the best times to visit Campania; temperatures are usually mild, and the crowds aren't quite so intense. Starting in mid-June, the summer rush begins, especially at the seaside resorts; and from July to August, the coast teems with visitors. Mid-August is the worst on the coast in terms of crowds: The entire country goes on vacation around the holiday of Ferragosto, on August 15; while the cities tend to be deserted -- in Naples, Benevento, Avellino, Caserta, and Salerno many restaurants and shops will be closed -- the seaside towns and island resorts buzz with activity. By contrast, the region's interior never gets really crowded. From November to Easter, most attractions go to shorter winter hours or are closed for renovation, while a number of hotels and restaurants close or take extended vacations. Especially between November and February, spa and beach destinations become padlocked ghost towns. Also, it can get much colder than you'd expect (it might even snow).

High season on most airline routes to Naples usually stretches from June to the beginning of September. This is the most expensive and most crowded time to travel. Shoulder season is from April to May, early September to October, and December 15 to January 14. Low season is from November 1 to December 14 and from January 15 to March 31.

Weather

Campania enjoys four well-defined seasons. Winters are mild, spring and fall are pleasant, and summers are hot. July and August are very hot, especially in low-lying areas. The high temperatures (measured in Italy in degrees Celsius) begin in Naples in May, often lasting until sometime in October. For the most part, the humidity is lower in Campania than, say, in Washington, D.C., so high temperatures don't seem as oppressive. In Naples, temperatures can stay in the 90°F (30°C) range for days, but nights are often comfortably cooler.

Winters are mild by the sea, with temperatures averaging 50°F (10°C), but it gets much colder in the interior and the mountains, which often are subject to rain and snow. Precipitations tend to be rare in summer but increase abruptly in the fall, which tends to be the wetter season. They are somewhat lower in winter and dwindle in spring.

Holidays

Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), January 6 (Epiphany), Easter Monday, April 25 (Liberation Day), May 1 (Labor Day), June 2 (Republic Day), August 15 (Ferragosto/Assumption of the Virgin), November 1 (All Saints' Day), December 8 (Feast of the Immaculate Conception), December 25 (Christmas Day), and December 26 (Santo Stefano). Closings are also sometimes observed on feast days honoring the patron saint of each town and village, when processions are organized through the historic district and around the town's main chiesa or cathedral. In Naples, September 19 is the Feast of St. Gennaro; in Salerno, September 21 is the Feast of St. Matteo; in Avellino, February 14 is the Feast of St. Modestino; Amalfi celebrates the Feast of St. Andrea on June 27 and November 30.

Special-Interest Vacations

Our favorite special-interest tour group in the region is the lively Naples-based Rising Incoming Organizer (RIO), Via Monte di Dio 9, 80132 Napoli (tel. 081-7644934; www.riorimontitours.com), a family business now in its third generation. It offers a variety of unique, off-the-beaten-path tours that cover all kinds of special interests, from classic art and ceramics -- a 12-day tour in Naples, Vietri, the Amalfi Coast, and Cerreto Sannita (near Benevento) that we particularly recommend -- to golf, sailing, and culinary adventures, including one featuring Neapolitan pastries.

Another operator we like is the Philadelphia-based Context Travel (tel. 800/691-6036 toll-free in the U.S., or 215/392-0303; www.contexttravel.com), offering tours and excursions guided by docents and experts. The list of available walking tours of Naples is impressive; each tour focuses on one area of interest, such as art, archaeology, architecture, history, theology, city ambience, shopping, or cuisine.

San Diego-based Cultural Italy (tel. 800/380-0014 or 619/822-1099; www.culturalitaly.com) is also a good source for a variety of tours.

Academic Trips & Language Classes

Our favorite language school in the area is Sorrento Lingue, Via S. Francesco 8, 80067 Sorrento (tel. 081-8075599; www.sorrentolingue.com). It also offers cooking and art classes. Our other favorite is Centro Italiano, Vico Santa Maria dell'Aiuto 17, 80134 Napoli (tel. 081-5524331; www.centroitaliano.it), which also offers excellent seminars on local culture as well as courses on archaeology, ceramics, wine, and yoga.

Both offer high academic value and comparable costs (weekly courses start at about 200€ per person). Another resource is the British-based LCA (Language Courses Abroad; www.languagesabroad.co.uk) which organizes language as well as cooking and art classes in the region.

Adventure & Wellness Trips

The Sorrento peninsula and Amalfi Coast are hikers' heavens, while the Cilento simultaneously offers the best to both hikers and bicycle enthusiasts. A great number of agencies, both local and international, offer hiking and biking trips, but you can also hire local guides to organize your own individual trip.

Our favorite locally based organization is Cycling Cilento Adventure (tel. 328-3652736; www.cyclingcilentoadventure.com), based in Cilento National Park. It offers a great -- both in number and quality -- choice of road bike, mountain bike, and hiking tours, all of which allow you to sample the local cuisine and see the best sights.

An excellent agency is Country Walkers (tel. 800/464-9255 or 802/244-1387; www.countrywalkers.com); based in Vermont, it organizes great walking tours with highly experienced local guides, from a more laid-back tour of Capri and the Amalfi Coast, to a more taxing hike of the Amalfi Coast.

Another excellent agency is the U.K.-based Sherpa Expeditions (tel. 20-8577-2717; www.sherpa-walking-holidays.co.uk), offering several guided and self-guided walking tours in Campania, both on the Amalfi Coast and in Cilento National Park.

La Dolce Vita Wine Tours (tel. 888/746-0022; www.dolcetours.com) organizes easier walking tours, including one that covers Capri, Mount Vesuvius, and Pompeii, as well as some of the best vineyards in the region.

Breakaway Adventures (tel. 800/567-6286; www.breakaway-adventures.com) organizes cycling and walking tours in the Sorrento peninsula and Amalfi Coast as well as in the Cilento.

The region is also a major wellness destination, with the local volcanic activity creating endless natural spa opportunities. The island of Ischia and Castellamare di Stabia are where you'll find the world-renown resorts.

Food & Wine Trips

As home to some of the best culinary traditions in Italy, Campania offers a number of food-oriented tours. Our personal favorites are those offered by the Sorrento Cooking School (tel. 081-8783255; www.sorrentocookingschool.com), whose program includes a large variety of choices both in length (from daily excursions to longer tours lasting up to 8 days) and content (from cooking classes and wine tours to gastronomic and cultural explorations).

We also like the Italian cooking school of Mami Camilla, Via Cocumella 06, Sant'Agnello di Sorrento (tel. 081-8782067; www.mamicamilla.com).

Other excellent classes are organized by Sorrento Lingue and Centro Italiano.

Specializing in culinary vacations, Epiculinary (tel. 847-9887056; www.epiculinary.com) hosts a large variety of Italian classes and tours, several of which are in the Sorrento and Amalfi Coast areas.

Chicago-based International Kitchen (tel. 800/945-8606; www.theinternationalkitchen.com) is one of the best companies devoted to culinary tours, and its program includes several destinations on the Amalfi Coast, such as the delightful Oasi Olympia Relais in Sant'Agata sui due Golfi, between Sorrento and Positano.

With its "taste your travel" slogan, Italy-based Pagine di Gusto (tel. 0461-383120; www.paginedigusto.com) organizes several discovery tours of Campania, highlighting its art, food, and wines.

Another good resource is Gourmet Traveler (www.gourmetravel.com), offering specialized tours of the Amalfi Coast.

As for wine, our favorite tour operator is the Benevento-based Savour the Sannio (tel. 0823-953663; www.savourthesannio.com), operated by Barbara and Federico. They organize delectable tours of the local wineries as well as excellent cooking classes and cultural excursions.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Legambiente (www.legambiente.eu) and its regional section for Campania (www.legambiente.campania.it) and FAI (Fondo Ambiente Italiano; www.fondoambiente.it) regularly organize working vacations during which you volunteer on a specific conservation project, paying only your basic lodging expenses. Another good resource is Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms (www.wwoof.org), which organizes volunteer work on organic farms.

Tips on Accommodations

Most hotels on the Amalfi Coast are structured to take advantage of the mild climate by maximizing outdoor enjoyment, with guest rooms opening onto patios, balconies, terraces, and gardens. Carpeting is the exception, while a tiled floor -- often with local, hand-decorated tiles -- is the rule. Some of the local cultural idiosyncrasies (such as lack of amenities and small bathrooms) can be less charming; they become more and more apparent as you go down in the level and price of accommodations.

In general, hotels tend to have fewer amenities, particularly in urban areas, than their same-level counterparts in the U.S. and Britain. Swimming pools are a rare luxury in town, though outdoor summer-only pools are more common in seaside and some mountain resort destinations. Fitness clubs, gyms, and especially spas (which can vary from a sauna and a couple of massage rooms to state-of-the-art facilities) are becoming more widespread in general, even in some moderately priced hotels. In-room dining is offered only in the most expensive hotels and rarely on a 24-hour basis. Moderate hotels may not have a restaurant at all, just a breakfast service which they may even cater from the nearby bar. Only the cheapest accommodations don't have TVs, but more expensive hotels may offer satellite TV (necessary for programs in English). Air-conditioning is becoming more widespread, but the climate is so nearly perfect -- warm and breezy -- that you will rarely need it.

Also, because buildings are old -- sometimes centuries old -- elevators tend to be small and rarely fully accessible to the mobility challenged: Steps tend to be ubiquitous. Rooms also tend to be smaller than, say, in the U.S. or Britain, but the biggest difference is in the bathrooms, which are often tiny, rarely featuring a bathtub (shower only), with fixtures that look old-fashioned even if they are in perfect working order.

So, if you are planning to spend a lot of time in your room -- having drinks with friends and romantic dinners -- and in the hotel, lounging in the public areas, the spa, the swimming pool, and the hotel's restaurants and bars, you should consider only the most luxurious hotels. Only there will you find the level of amenities you are seeking. If instead you want to spend most of your time exploring your destination, using your hotel as a sleeping base, then you should definitely consider moderate hotels, because, while their extra amenities are basic, you'll get spacious -- sometimes even luxurious -- rooms with modern bathrooms.

If all you really want is a good bed, then you can consider inexpensive hotels, where the room's decor will be simpler but accommodations will always include all the basic amenities (comfortable and scrupulously clean bed and bathroom, telephone, and local TV).

Hotels with restaurants often offer a meal plan to go with the room. You can usually choose among B&B service (breakfast only), half-board (breakfast and either lunch or dinner), and full board (breakfast, lunch, and dinner). Some smaller establishments make a meal plan mandatory during the month of August, when many of these same hotels may enforce a minimum-stay requirement of 3 or 7 days.

Most hotels in the region are private -- often family-run -- properties, yet you will also find a few hotels run by some major chains: In addition to Best Western (www.bestwestern.com), Hilton (www.hilton.com), Holiday Inn (www.holiday-inn.com), and Starwood Hotels -- including Sheraton, Four Points, Le Meridien, Westin, St. Regis, and Luxury Collection -- (www.starwoodhotels.com), you'll find the Italian chain NH/Jolly Hotels (www.nh-hotels.it), catering to business as well as family travelers. You'll also find the French chain Sofitel (www.sofitel.com), which offers somewhat simpler accommodations and caters mostly to families, and the European Accor Hotels (www.accorhotels.com) with its moderately priced Novotel and its more elegant Mercure hotels.

Because most hotels in the area are private -- including some of the most famous luxury hotels such as the San Pietro in Positano -- you'll do much better researching online with an Italy-based search engine such as Venere Net (www.venere.com). Other sites to check out are Italyhotels (www.italyhotelink.com), ITWG.com (www.italyhotels.com), Welcome to Italy (www.wel.it), Europa Hotels (www.europa-hotels.com), and Italy Hotels (www.hotels-in-italy.com).

Also, always check the hotel's website directly, as these often list the same rates as some supposed discount agencies, but without the extra fee, or even unique online deals.

Remember: It's always a good idea to get a confirmation number, record the name of the representative with whom you spoke, and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Agriturismo (Farm Stays)

Another option -- a favorite with Italians -- is an agriturismo: staying on a working farm or former farm somewhere in the countryside. Your lodging usually includes breakfast and at least one other meal (your choice of dinner or lunch), prepared with ingredients produced on the farm or by nearby local farms. Among the rapidly multiplying online agencies, the best are Agriturist.it (www.agriturist.it) and Agriturismo.it (www.agriturismo.it). Accommodations range from the downright posh and palatial (for example, on famous wine-producing estates) to simple but clean country-inn style. They often offer swimming pools and outdoor activities. Beware that some agriturismi offer only basic accommodations: Rates are usually proportional to what is provided.

Renting a Villa

The appeal of renting a villa is obvious, and some of them are truly luxurious. The number of properties for rent in Campania is on the increase although you will find the best choice in the popular tourist areas such as Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast.

Many good agencies specialize in stays on the Amalfi Coast. We like the Right Vacation Rental (www.therightvacationrental.com), offering apartment, farmhouse, and cottage stays of 1 week or more; it is a subsidiary of Idyll Untours (tel. 888-868-6871; www.untours.com) and donates part of its profits to provide low-interest loans to underprivileged entrepreneurs around the world. Others we like for their portfolio and commitment are Doorways LTD (tel. 800/261-4460 or 610/520-0806; www.villavacations.com), Rent Villas (tel. 800/726-6702 or 805/641-1650; www.rentvillas.com), Europe at Cost (tel. 800/322-3876; www.europeatcost.com), the Parker Company, Ltd. (tel. 800/280-2811 or 781/596-8282; www.theparkercompany.com), Villas and Apartments Abroad, Ltd. (tel. 212/213-6435; www.ideal-villas.com), and Villas International (tel. 800/221-2260 or 415/499-9490; www.villasintl.com), all U.S. based.

In the U.K., contact Cottages to Castles (tel. 1622-775-217; www.cottagestocastles.com). There's also an Australia-based Cottages & Castles (tel. 03-9889-3350; www.cottagesandcastles.com.au).

Bed & Breakfasts

Bed and breakfasts (B&Bs) are becoming increasingly common in the region and provide a good alternative to hotels. The best Web portals are www.bedandbreakfast.it, with the largest portfolio, followed by www.bbitalia.it. We also recommend the Naples-based agency Rent a Bed-Napoli e Campania, Vico San Carlo alle Mortelle 14, 80132 Napoli (tel. 081-417721; mobile 392-3174864; www.rentabed.it).

Getting There

By Plane

Campania is served by Naples's Capodichino Airport (tel. 081-7896111 or toll-free from within Italy 848-888777; www.gesac.it); its international airport code is NAP. All attractions in the region are a short distance away.

Only a few international airlines fly directly to Naples so you may also decide to enjoy the wider choice offered by Rome's Fiumicino-Leonardo da Vinci airport (international airport code FCO). You'll then have to transfer to the train.

In addition to several low-cost companies, a few major airlines offer international flights to Naples from their European hubs: Alitalia, Air France, Aer Lingus, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Iberia, and Lufthansa. The only intercontinental nonstop flights to Naples are those offered by Meridiana from New York (Meridiana recently purchased Eurofly from Alitalia). From elsewhere in North America and from Australia and New Zealand, you will have to take a connecting flight (Rome is only 50 min. away, Milan about 90 min., and most European hubs about 2 hr.).

From the Airport -- About 7km (4 miles) from Naples's city center, the airport is only 20 minutes away from the downtown area and the harbor. The easiest way to get to your destination is by taking a taxi directly to your hotel: The flat rate for Naples is 19€ plus gratuities, 100€ for Sorrento, 120€ for Positano, 130€ for Amalfi, and 135€ for Ravello. Most hotels and resorts along the coast offer airport pickup: For a limousine booked through your hotel, you'll pay about 30€ for Naples, 90€ for Sorrento, and 115€ for Amalfi. You might get better rates contacting a car service directly.

If you don't have a lot of luggage, the Alibus shuttle bus (tel. 081-5513109; www.unicocampania.it) to Naples is a cheaper alternative at 3€. With departures every 20 minutes, it stops on Corso Garibaldi near Napoli Centrale train station, and in Piazza Municipio at the heart of the historic district. Shuttle bus service to other nearby towns (Sorrento and Castellammare di Stabia, for instance) is also available.

By Train

Italy enjoys an excellent railway system, and trains often are the most convenient way to get from one destination to another. Naples is on Italy's main southern corridor, making it easily accessible from other Italian and European towns. The national railroad company FS-Trenitalia (tel. 892021 from anywhere in Italy, 39-06-68475475 from abroad; www.trenitalia.it) offers local trains as well as the faster, more expensive AltaVelocità, EuroStar, and InterCity trains (designated AV, ES, and IC on train schedules, respectively), which make limited stops. AV trains -- Italy's fastest -- travel at speeds of up to 300kmph (186 mph). The new AV train takes only 87 minutes between Rome and Naples, and 5 hours and 35 minutes from Milan, making it by far the best way to move between these cities; regular trains take about 2 1/2 and 9 hours respectively for the same connections.

Fares for these fast trains are not cheap, but there are specials if you book online and in advance directly on the Trenitalia website (www.trenitalia.it). Children ages 5 to 11 receive a discount of 50%, and children ages 4 and younger travel free with their parents. Seniors and youths ages 25 and under can purchase discount cards. Advance seat reservations, which are obligatory on all AV, ES, and IC trains, are highly recommended for other trains during peak season and on weekends and holidays.

If you plan to travel extensively in Europe by train, it may be cheaper to purchase a Eurail Pass, a prepaid train pass for sale at all major rail stations and online (www.eurail.com). You can choose among several possible combinations, including an Italy-only pass granting 3 to 10 unlimited travel days within a 2-month period. Adult rates vary from between 153€ to 346€, depending on time and class. You will need to pay an extra fee for compulsory seat reservations on the faster trains and sleepers, but you'll be entitled to reductions on certain bus and ferry lines of up to 20%. If you prefer to discuss your options with a travel agent, contact Rail Europe (tel. 877/272-RAIL [7245]; www.raileurope.com) or your own travel agent, but they'll charge a commission. Savings are available for youths ages 25 and younger and for groups.

By Boat

Italy is well served by international ferries and is a regular stop on most cruise-ship lines. Two of its major ports are Naples and Salerno, both in Campania. Naples is the main port of central Italy, receiving daily ships and ferries from international destinations. Salerno is only slightly smaller.

Arriving in Naples by ship is a magnificent experience. You'll land at Stazione Marittima, only steps from the Maschio Angioino, in the heart of the historic district, the città antica. Salerno's harbor is also only a short distance from the historic district.

A number of cruise-ship companies sail to Naples, especially in the good season, from spring well into fall. One of our favorites is MSC Cruises (www.msccruises.com), both for the quality of ships and cruises and for the company's commitment to sustainable tourism and minimal ecological impact. Another favorite, both for the quality of its ships and service and its commitment to the protection of the environment, is Costa Cruises (www.costacruise.com). Other reliable companies offering cruises to Campania are Regent Seven Seas Cruises (www.rssc.com), Norwegian Cruise Line (www.ncl.eu), and Oceania Cruises (www.oceaniacruises.com).

The major ferry companies offering regular service to Naples are Tirrenia (tel. 892123 or 02-26302803; www.tirrenia.it), with boats to Sardinia (Cagliari) and Sicily (Palermo); Siremar (tel. 199-118866; www.siremar.it), with ships to the Aeolian Islands and Sicily (Milazzo); TTTLines (tel. 800-915365; www.TTTLines.it), with ships to Sicily (Catania); Medmar (tel. 081-3334411; www.medmargroup.it ), with boats to Ischia and Procida; and SNAV (tel. 081-4285555; www.snav.it), with boats to Sicily, Sardinia, and the Aeolian and Pontine islands. Major companies operating from Salerno are Grimaldi Lines (tel. 081-496444; www.grimaldi-ferries.com), with regular service to Spain (Valencia), Malta (La Valletta), Tunisia (Tunis), and Sicily (Palermo); and Caronte & Tourist (tel. 800-627414 toll-free within Italy, or 089-2582528; www.carontetourist.it), with boats to Sicily (Catania and Messina).

Of course, you could also cruise to another of the Italian harbors and then get to Campania by other means. Major navigation companies serving other Italian ports are Blue Star Ferries (www.bluestarferries.gr) and Superfast Ferries (www.superfast.com), from Greece; Marmara Lines (www.directferries.it), from Turkey; Grandi Navi Veloci (www.gnv.it), from Spain; and Virtu Ferries (www.virtuferries.com), from Malta.

By Car

To drive a car in Italy, you will need an International Driving Permit (IDP) which is an official translation of your license. Apply in the United States at any American Automobile Association (AAA) branch; or contact AAA's national headquarters (tel. 800/222-4357 or 407/444-4300; www.aaa.com). Canadians can get the address of the nearest Canadian Automobile Association by calling tel. 613/247-0117, or by visiting www.caa.ca. Remember that an international permit is valid only if physically accompanied by your home country-issued driver's license and only if signed on the back.

Most car-rental companies require a minimum age of 23 or 25, but a few will accept a minimum age of 21 for their cheaper models. Most rental companies will not rent a car to drivers 76 and older. Insurance on all vehicles is compulsory and can be purchased at any reputable rental firm. You will also need a valid credit card (not a prepaid or debit card) for a standard model and two credit cards for a deluxe model; cash payments will not be accepted.

Car rental in Italy is more expensive then in the United States. Your best bet is to check for specials on companies' websites. Prices vary with car size and special offers, but a compact car will generally rent for between 60€ and 100€ per day.

All of the major international rental companies operate in Italy: Avis (tel. 800/331-1212; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/472-3325; www.budget.com), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com), and National in the U.S. (tel. 800/227-7368; www.nationalcar.com). National is associated with Italy's primary rental company, Maggiore (tel. 199-151120 toll-free in Italy; www.maggiore.it). A newer, reputable, and sometimes cheaper company is Sixt (tel. 888/749-8227 in the United States; 199-100666 in Italy; www.sixt.it, or www.sixtusa.com for U.S. citizens). If you need a long-term rental, Auto Europe (tel. 800/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com), Europe by Car (tel. 800/223-1516, or 212/581-3040 in New York; www.europebycar.com), and Kemwel Holiday Auto (tel. 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com), might offer better rates. It is worth asking when you book if your American Automobile Association (AAA) or AARP membership will give you a discount. Renting online usually will get you the best prices, but it is worth checking with the local rental office for a better deal. Package discounts are sometimes available when you book your car together with your flight.

Cars in Italy have manual shift, but you can request a car with automatic shift; they usually rent at a premium.

If you are driving to Italy from abroad, you will have to pass the Alps. There are three tunnels (Mont Blanc and Fréjus from France and Grand St. Bernard from Switzerland, all leading to the A5 highway to Turin and Milan) and a few passes (the main one is the Brenner from Austria, leading to the A22 highway to Bologna). Traffic at the border can be delayed by bad weather or at times of mass exodus (such as the beginning and end of school vacations).

Limited-access express highways in Italy are called autostrada and numbered from A1 on. They sometimes are also marked with the European number, starting with the letter E. North of Naples, autostrade are toll roads; they are quality roads with modern gas stations at sensible intervals. Tariffs depend on the size of your vehicle and the type of road; regular cars pay .061€ per kilometer on flat roads, and .072€ per kilometer on mountains, to which you need to add a small surcharge and rounding. To give you an example, Rome-Salerno will cost you a minimum of 14.60€. The official website, www.autostrade.it, offers a tool to calculate your costs and organize your trip, but, for the moment, it is in Italian only.

The Autostrada del Sole A1 from Milan to Naples is the highway to Campania. From Naples, the A3 leads to Salerno. Driving from Milan to Naples will take you about 9 hours on average, and about 10 to Sorrento. But be forewarned, driving in Campania is notoriously dangerous.

Money

Currency rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

You'll be glad to hear that Campania is still an affordable destination in Italy: The cost of living and traveling is lower then Tuscany or Milan, and quite a bit lower than some northern Europe destinations, such as London, Copenhagen, and Amsterdam.

ATMs (automated teller machines), or cashpoints, are common and present in all but the most remote localities in the region. The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (www.visa.com) networks are the most common. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank. Deutsche Bank and BNL (Banca Nazionale del Lavoro) are those that do not charge transaction fees at other Alliance member ATMs (these include Bank of America, Scotiabank, and Barclays).

Most ATMs accept four- and five-digit codes (six digits may not work), so if you have a six-digit code you'll want to go into your bank and get a new PIN for your trip.

Credit and debit cards in Italy have chips instead of a swiping magnetic band, but "swipe" cards are widely accepted and you should not have a problem with this. Do keep cash on hand, though, as many shops have a higher minimum than in the U.S. for credit card use (most often they will not accept credit or debit cards for amounts below 15€).

What Things Cost in Naples (in €)

A metro or city bus ride 1.10

Can of soda 2.00

Pay-phone call 0.20

Movie ticket 8.00

Caffè lungo (American-style espresso) 1.00

Ticket to the Museo Nazionale Capodimonte (including reservation) 9.00

Taxi from the airport 19.00

Moderate three-course dinner for one without alcohol 25.00

Moderate hotel room (double) 185.00

Liter of house wine in a restaurant 10.00

First-class letter to the United States (or any overseas country) 1.60

Tips for Families

The whole country, especially Southern Italy, is completely welcoming to children. Italians love kids and take theirs with them wherever they go. However, don't expect special amenities: There will be no playroom, no babysitting program, and no kiddy area with small tables and crayons. Children in Italy partake in their parents' lives. Kids sleep in the same room or suite -- though most hoteliers will add a cot to your room for your child, and most have special rooms or suites designed for families with children, but you need to book in advance. Throughout the region, private attractions offer discounts to all children, while in state-run museums, only E.U. citizens ages 17 and under are admitted free.

Campania is particularly suited for a vacation with children: The ancient sites and castles stimulate children's imagination while the many beaches and resorts are a perfect place for them to vent their energy (though you might want to avoid the rocky Sorrento peninsula and Capri, where sandy beaches are rare, and favor Ischia and the Cilento, which have the best sandy stretches in the region).

The key to a successful family vacation in Italy lies in some smart planning: Involve your children in both the research and the decision-making process; schedule your visits alternating "adult" attractions with those in which your kids will be interested; and plan to make lots of gelato (ice cream) and pizza breaks.

Fast Facts

Area Codes -- 081 for the province of Naples (including Sorrento, Pozzuoli, Ischia, and Capri); 082 for the provinces of Caserta, Benevento, and Avellino; 089 for the province of Salerno (including the Amalfi Coast); and 097 for the Cilento.

Automobile Organizations -- Two organizations operate in Italy and offer memberships: Automobile Club d'Italia (ACI; tel. 803-116 toll-free within Italy; www.aci.it) provides road assistance throughout the country. Their offices also help with car insurance, registration, and other regulation-related issues. Touring Club Italiano (www.touringclub.com) publishes maps and guides and maintains useful databases of services for car travelers.

Business Hours -- General business hours are Monday through Friday 8:30am to 1pm and 2:30 to 5:30pm. Banks are generally open Monday through Friday 8:30am to 1:30pm and 2:30 to 4pm. Some banks and businesses are also open on Saturday mornings. Shops are usually open Monday through Saturday from 8 or 9am to 1pm and 4:30 to 7:30 or 8pm, with one extra half-day closing per week at the shop's discretion. Note: A growing number of shops in tourist areas stay open during the lunch break and on Sunday.

Drinking Laws -- There's no minimum drinking age in Italy. Alcohol is sold day and night throughout the year, and the only limitations are the operating hours of bars and shops. The law is extremely tough though on drunken behavior, and disturbance of the quiete pubblica (public peace) will be punished with stiff fines and jail time. Littering (including potential littering such as drinking from your beer bottle while sitting on an ancient wall) is also severely penalized. Drinking and driving can result in jail time as well as loss of your driving permit.

Electricity -- The electricity in Italy is an alternating current (AC), varying from 42 to 50 cycles. The voltage is 220. It's recommended that any visitor carrying electrical appliances obtain a transformer (laptop computers usually have one built in their cord; check on the back for allowed voltages). Italian plugs have prongs that are round, not flat; therefore, an adapter plug is also needed. You can purchase both transformer and adapter in any local hardware store.

Embassies & Consulates -- Embassies are located in Rome, but you'll find most consulates in Naples: The U.S. Consulate is at Piazza della Repubblica 2 (tel. 081-5838111; fax 081-7611869; http://naples.usconsulate.gov); the Canadian Consulate is at Via Carducci 29 (tel. 081-401338; fax 081-406161; www.canada.it); the U.K. Consulate is at Via dei Mille 40 (tel. 081-4238911; fax 081-422434; www.britain.it).

Emergencies -- tel. 113 or 112 for the police; tel. 118 for an ambulance; and tel. 115 for a fire. For road emergencies dial tel. 803-116.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Gasoline sells on average for 1.60€ per liter and diesel for about 1.50€ per liter, with small variations depending on the location. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons.

Insurance -- Buying insurance is a personal decision. We find that trip-cancellation policies are a good idea, particularly if you are investing a lot of money in your trip and you have made plans way in advance.

For information on traveler's insurance, trip-cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling please visit www.frommers.com/planning.

Legal Aid -- If you are pulled over for a driving offense, you'll have the choice to settle the fine right there on the roadside (you will be given a copy of the fine and an official receipt) or pay it at the post office (you will be given a form to fill out). If you are taken to the police station, you can ask for a translator to be sure you understand the situation. If you are actually arrested, the consulate of your country is the place to turn for legal aid, although offices can't interfere in the Italian legal process. They can, however, inform you of your rights and provide you with a list of professional attorneys. If you're arrested for a drug offense, the consulate will notify a lawyer about your case.

Mail -- On the whole, Italian mail works well. Check with www.poste.it for any specific question. Postcards (not in regular letter envelopes) are the slowest: Your family and friends back home might receive your postcards after your return. You are better off slipping your postcard in an envelope and sending it letter rate or higher. International and internal mail is now all sent at the Posta Prioritaria rate. Your letter will take 3 to 8 days depending on the destination. Postcards and letters weighing up to 20 grams cost .75€ for Europe; 1.60€ for Africa, Asia, and the Americas; and 2€ for Oceania. You can buy stamps at all post offices and at tabacchi (tobacconist) stores.

Maps -- Tourist offices are the best places to find user-friendly local maps, usually available for free. If you are driving, the best maps are available from Touring Club of Italy (www.touring.it); buy directly from their website, at bookstores abroad, or from most bookstores and newsstands in Italy.

Newspapers & Magazines -- You'll find a large variety of magazines and newspapers in Italian at local newsstands and some bookstores. Those in cities and in tourist destinations also carry some international press. For instance you'll find the International Herald Tribune and sometimes USA Today, Time, and Newsweek.

Police -- Dial tel.113 or 112 for emergencies.

Smoking -- Smoking is still very common in the region, but is forbidden in enclosed public spaces, except those with separate ventilated smoking areas.

Taxes -- Taxes in Italy are usually included in the prices quoted, but some luxury hotels will show it separately on their bills. VAT, Value-Added Tax (called IVA in Italy) is imposed on most goods and services; the rate depends on the item and goes from 4% for basic food items to 20% for accessories and clothing. VAT is used in Italy for social purposes and, as a foreigner, you can ask for a refund: Non-E.U. (European Union) citizens are entitled to a refund of the IVA for purchases over 154.94€ before tax at any one store, on those goods you will take out of the country. To claim your refund, request an invoice from the cashier at the store and take it to the Customs office (dogana) at the airport to have it stamped before you leave. Note: If you're going to another E.U. country before flying home, you can have it stamped at the airport Customs office of the last E.U. country you'll be in (for example, if you're flying home via Britain, have your Italian invoices stamped in London). Once you're back home, mail the stamped invoice (keep a photocopy for your records) back to the original vendor within 90 days of the purchase. The vendor will send you a refund of the tax that you paid at the time of your original purchase. Reputable stores view this as a matter of ordinary paperwork and are businesslike about it. Less-honorable stores might "lose" your file. It pays to deal with established vendors on large purchases. You can also request that the refund be credited to the card with which you made the purchase; this is usually a faster procedure.

Many shops are now part of the "Tax Free for Tourists" network (look for the sticker in the window). Stores participating in this network issue a check along with your invoice at the time of purchase. After you have the invoice stamped at Customs, you can redeem the check for cash directly at the Tax Free booth in the airport (in Rome, it's past Customs; in Milan's airports, the booth is inside the duty-free shop) or mail it back in the envelope provided within 60 days. Check Global Refunds (www.globalrefund.com) for more information.

Time -- Italy and Campania are 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the United States and 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time in the U.K. (GMT+1). Daylight saving time in Italy is from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Tipping -- Tipping is not required in Italy as service charges are usually included in your bills. It is customary, though to leave a small tip if you are satisfied with the service: Give your hotel maid .50€ to 2€ per day, the doorman (for calling a cab) .50€, and the bellhop or porter 1€ to 5€ for carrying your bags to your room. A concierge might get up to 10% of his or her bill. In cafes you usually leave a small tip, such as .10€ if you had a coffee. In restaurants, your menu or your bill should say if the service charge is included; if you're not sure whether it is, ask, "È incluso il servizio?" (ay een-cloo-soh eel sair-vee-tsoh). If it is not included, add 10% to 15% to your bill. An additional tip isn't required, but it's customary to leave the equivalent of an extra couple of euros, if you've been pleased with the service. Checkroom attendants expect .50€ to 1€, and washroom attendants should get at least .50€. Taxi drivers can be tipped 10% of the fare.

Toilets -- Airports, train stations, museums, and major archaeological areas and attractions all have restrooms, often with attendants who expect to be tipped. Bars, nightclubs, restaurants, cafes, gas stations, and hotels should have facilities as well, but they are open only to customers. Public toilets are found near many of the major sights. Usually they're designated WC (water closet) and bear international symbols or the signs DONNE (women) and UOMINI (men). The most confusing designation is SIGNORI (gentlemen) and SIGNORE (ladies), so watch that final i and e! Many public toilets charge a small fee or employ an attendant who expects a tip. It's a good idea to carry some tissues in your pocket or purse -- they often come in handy.

Water -- In restaurants, most locals drink mineral water with their meals; however, tap water is safe everywhere, as are public drinking fountains. Some areas of Naples have had long-term problems with the water supply, and this is why all public establishments in the city -- hotels, bars, cafes, restaurants, and so on -- have their own filtering devices. If you are staying in a private home, though, make sure you ask about the water supply. Unsafe sources and fountains will be marked ACQUA NON POTABILE.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Since 1861, Campania and Italy have had liberal legislation regarding homosexuality. Ischia and Capri have long been gay meccas, and you'll find a somewhat active gay life in Naples. Still, open displays of same-sex affection are sometimes frowned upon in the highly Catholic country (despite the fact that people in Campania are very physical, and men and women alike embrace when saying hello and goodbye).

ARCI Gay (www.arcigay.it) is the country's leading gay organization, with branches throughout Campania. Naples's section is Circolo Antinoo, Vico San Geronimo 17, Naples (tel. 081-5528815 daily 4.20-8pm). Another major organization is Gay.it (www.gay.it), which maintains a search engine (http://guida.gay.it) for gay-friendly bars, restaurants, and the like, and a specialized tour operator Gayfriendlyitaly.com (www.gayfriendlyitaly.com).

Gay publications include Pride, a free national monthly, available at most gay venues; and Babilonia, which is available at most large newsstands.

Calendar of Events

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check http://events.frommers.com, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world.

For major events in which tickets should be procured well before your arrival, we prefer using Italy-based services; they are often cheaper and have more comprehensive event offerings. You can also check with Global Edwards & Edwards, in the United States, at tel. 800-223-6108.

January

Il Presepe nel Presepe (Manger in a Manger), Morcone. This little town near Benevento is a natural background for the reenactment of Jesus' birth. Each January, the villagers here transform their town into a version of Bethlehem, and open their homes to visitors. January 3.

Epiphany celebrations, regionwide. All Roman Catholic holidays are deeply felt in Campania, and festive celebrations for the Epiphany include numerous fairs and processions celebrating the arrival of the Three Kings at Christ's manger. January 6.

Festival Internazionale della Canzone Napoletana ed Italiana (International Festival of Italian and Neapolitan Song), Capua. Gathering performers and lovers of Italian and Neapolitan music for more than 3 decades, this 3-day event is a celebration of Italian folk music, both new and traditional. End of January.

February

Carnival, regionwide. During the period before Lent, float parades and histrionic traditional shows take place in most towns, big and small, throughout the region. Some of the best are in Capua, which puts on a grand parade and cabaret and theater performances (call the tourist office at tel. 0823-321137), and in Montemarano, where celebrations start on January 17 (call the tourist office at tel. 0827-63231, for a schedule of events). Paestum schedules great parade and dance shows (call the tourist office at tel. 0828-811016). Dates vary, but it's generally held the week before Ash Wednesday.

Carnevale Irpino, Avellino. This festival includes traditional representations, such as the famous Zeza, a musical farce; parades; and the Concorso della Zeza, a large competition for group mummers (masked performers). Contact the EPT (tel. 0825-74732 or 0825-74695) for a schedule of the events. The 2 weeks before Ash Wednesday.

March

Nauticsud, Mostra d'Oltremare, Naples. Spanning both land and water, this boat show displays the latest motor and sailing boats and equipment. Check the website for information at www.nauticsud.info. Mid-March.

Comicon -- International Comics Festival, Naples. This international event at Castel Sant'Elmo is a must-see for fans of comic books and animation. Each year the fair is organized around a main theme -- such as Japanese comics or mystery -- and includes previews and presentations of new productions spanning the spectrum. Contact the organization for a schedule of events (tel. 081-4238127; www.comicon.it). Late March/early April.

Primavera Sorrentina, Sorrento. The town celebrates the spring and then the summer with an array of events, including various flower fairs, food fairs, and a few musical venues. March through July.

April

Pasqua (Easter), regionwide. Celebrations include several events: Processions for the benediction of the symbolic palm -- usually olive tree branches -- take place on the Sunday before Easter Sunday; Stations of the Cross processions (reenacting Jesus' ascent to Golgotha) are staged in almost every church on Holy Friday; finally, Easter Sunday is marked by special religious celebrations. Various dates between end of March and April.

Pasqua a Sorrento (Easter in Sorrento), Sorrento. These Easter celebrations last a whole week; religious processions and concerts are scheduled in the town's cathedral and in the delightful cloister of San Francesco. Other processions take place on the night of Holy Thursday through Holy Friday in the towns surrounding Sorrento: Meta, Piano di Sorrento, and Sant'Agnello. Week before Easter.

Processione dei Misteri (Procession of the Mysteries), Procida. This is one of the most famous traditional religious events in Campania, a procession of plastic scenes from the Passion of Christ sculpted by local craftspeople. Evolving from its original procession in 1627, it is now a glorious show of entire scenes depicting the betrayal of Judas, the Last Supper, and so on, as well as large statues of Christ and the Madonna. Holy Thursday night into Holy Friday morning.

Linea d'Ombra Salerno -- Festival Culture Giovani, Salerno. This major international event, in its 16th year in 2011, is dedicated to new talent in Europe and focuses on the passage from adolescence to adulthood -- the "shadow line," written about by Joseph Conrad -- through film, music, visual and performing arts, and literature. Contact the festival office (tel. 089-662565; fax 089-662566; www.festivalculturegiovani.it). Varying week in April.

May

Feast of San Costanzo, Marina Grande, Capri. This day honors St. Costanzo, whose remains, preserved in the local basilica, protected the island from the Saracens' attacks during the Middle Ages. Bishop Costanzo died on the island during his apostolic mission in Capri on his way to Constantinople around A.D. 677. Call the local tourist office for a program, at tel. 081-8370424. Third week of May.

Maggio dei Monumenti (Monuments in May), Naples. The centro storico (old city center) of Naples comes alive for a whole week with cultural events and special openings of private collections and monuments not normally open to the public. Contact the tourist office for a schedule. Last week of May.

June

Historic Regatta of the Maritime Republics, Amalfi. Each of Italy's four historical towns -- Genova, Pisa, Venice, and Amalfi -- alternate turns hosting this annual regatta. Amalfi's last turn was in 2009 and it will come around again in 2013. Contact the tourist office (tel. 089-871107). First Sunday in June.

Il Trionfo del Tempo e del Disinganno (The Triumph of Time and Enlightenment), provinces of Caserta and Benevento. This festival of medieval, Renaissance, and baroque music is beloved by connoisseurs, who delight not only in the high quality of the performances, but also in the venues: All concerts are held in little-known historical buildings, some of which are not usually open to the general public, and can be visited with a guide just before the concert. Check http://trionfo.altervista.org for a schedule of events. Second half of June through the end of August.

Concerti al Tramonto, Anacapri. Each summer, the Foundation Axel Munthe organizes a series of sunset concerts (classical and jazz) in the Villa San Michele, in a spectacular setting overlooking the island and the sea. Contact Villa San Michele for details (tel. 081-8371401; www.villasanmichele.eu). June through August.

Leuciana Festival, Caserta. This festival offers a rich program of musical, theatrical, and dance performances in Caserta's Reggia and in the scenic Belvedere di San Leucio. For more information, call tel. 0823- 237171 or visit www.leuciana.org. June through August.

Music in the Cloister, Amalfi. Organized by the town of Amalfi, this series of concerts, held in the splendid Chiostro del Paradiso at Amalfi's cathedral, is one of our favorite events. Contact the tourist office (tel. 089-871107) for a program. Usually on Friday at 9pm. Beginning of August to mid-September.

July

Sagra del Limone (Lemon Fair), Massa Lubrense. Celebrating the fruit that characterizes so much of the local culture and cuisine, this 4-day festival includes walks in the countryside, farm visits, and culinary events. First weekend in July.

Benevento Citta' Spettacolo, Benevento. The ancient Roman theater of Benevento is the venue for a full-fledged summer season of opera and drama. Contact the tourist office (tel. 0824-319911). July through August.

Neapolis Festival, Naples. Rock might be old-fashioned these days, but this 2-day festival is still hot. It stages the best groups in Italy and the world. Call or check the website for the program (www.neapolis.it). July.

Ischia Film Festival, Ischia. This fast-growing event stages some 100 films from over 20 countries annually. Visit www.ischiafilmfestival.it for more information. One week in July.

Ravello Festival, Ravello. This internationally renowned festival includes classical music, jazz, dance, and the visual arts, with shows by artists of world fame. You must make reservations well in advance. Contact the festival office (tel. 089-858422 or 089-858360; www.ravellofestival.com) for reservations. July through September.

Estate a Minori, Minori. Artists from around the world come to perform with the Amalfi Coast as their backdrop, and the Teatro del Mare inaugurated this year provides an additional stage right on the beach. Contact the local tourist office for the program (tel./fax 089-877087; www.proloco.minori.sa.it). July through August.

Festival Ville Vesuviane, Ercolano. Reaching its 25th edition in 2012, this music festival takes the stage in the splendid villas of the Miglio d'Oro -- the stretch of some 122 elegant villas built at the foot of Mount Vesuvius during the 18th century by the Bourbon court. Contact the Ente Ville Vesuviane (tel. 081-7322134; www.villevesuviane.net) for a schedule of events. July.

Festa del Mare, town of Ischia. These spectacular celebrations mark the occasion of the Festival of Sant'Anna. A procession of boats and floats crosses the harbor under the town's illuminated castle. July 26.

August

Sagra della Sfogliatella di Santa Rosa, Conca dei Marini. This event celebrates the local version of sfogliatella, the most famous of Neapolitan pastries, filled with pastry cream and a sour cherry confection. August.

Festival of the Assunta, Positano. In the 9th and 10th centuries A.D., when the Saracens established themselves in nearby Agropoli, the whole coast was endangered by their repeated incursions and bloody robberies. This festival reenacts the Saracens' attack on Positano and the miraculous intervention of the Madonna who, as legend has it, saved the town. August 14 and August 15.

Surrentum Grandi Eventi, Sorrento. The rich program of this festival centers on dance, theater, and music. The additional draw is the setting: All performances are staged in beautiful Villa Fiorentino. Contact the villa (tel. 081-8782284) or check their website (www.festivaldellospettacolo.it) for a schedule of events. August.

Musica negli Scavi Archeologici, Ercolano. Top-quality concerts are staged in the magic scenery of the ruins of Herculaneum and in the 18th-century Villa Campolieto. Contact the tourist office of Ercolano (tel. 081-7881243) for a schedule of events. August through September.

Scala Meets New York, Scala. This festival stages internationally renowned artists as well as political and cultural personalities to mark the solidarity of the oldest town on the Amalfi Coast with the most modern city in the world. For more info see the websites of the two organizing associations (www.italiausa.org and www.scalanelmondo.org). August 11 to September 11.

Incontri Musicali Sorrentini (Sorrentine Musical Encounters), Sorrento. Sorrento offers unending cultural events throughout the year, but during this festival, the peaceful cloister at St. Francis Church comes alive for 3 weeks of classical concerts. Ask the tourist office (tel. 081-8074033; www.sorrentotourism.com) for a schedule of events. August through September.

September

Settembre al Borgo (September in the Village), Casertavecchia. For 10 days, the ancient borgo in this medieval town comes alive with music and other performances focusing on a different theme each year. Contact the Caserta tourist office (tel. 0823-550011), or visit www.casertamusica.com for a schedule of events. End of August to the beginning of September.

Festa di Piedigrotta, Naples. This centuries-old religious and musical festival was successfully revived in 2007 after years of neglect. It was at the 1898 edition of this festival that the world-famous song "O Sole Mio" was presented for the first time, and the festival went strong for decades until it lost its following in the 1980s. It is now back full strength, featuring religious and musical events as well as a children's program and a parade of floats. For more information, visit www.festadipiedigrotta.it. First 2 weeks in September.

Santa Maria della Libera, Capri. Starting from the St. Costanzo in Marina Grande church and crossing the town of Capri, grand processions are staged at this festival, which includes music, fireworks, and market stalls. Contact the tourist office (tel. 081-8370424) for more information. The Sunday closest to September 12.

Ischia Jazz Festival, Ischia. This festival features renowned international jazz musicians. See www.ischiajazz.com for information. Usually first week of September.

October

Le lune di Pompei, Pompeii Archeological Area. This is the most romantic guided tour of Pompeii's ruins. The tour rotates on seven themes and is scheduled every night for 2 weeks in August and then every weekend night throughout October and November. You can book directly online at www.lelunedipompei.com, or contact the booking office for information (tel. 081-19303885). August through November.

November

Feast of St. Andrew, Amalfi. St. Andrew, the patron of Amalfi and the protector of fishermen, is honored annually by local fishermen, who run with a heavy statue of him on their shoulders from the beach up the cathedral's hundreds of steps, and then present the saint with offerings of fish -- both fresh and carved. The town also celebrates with games, folk shows, and magnificent fireworks. The feast is repeated in a mellower form on June 27, the anniversary of the day the saint miraculously saved the town from an attack by Saracen pirates. November 30.

December

Sagra della Salsiccia e Ceppone (Sausage and Bonfire Fair), Sorrento. In this celebration of Saint Lucia, locals and visitors cook -- and eat -- about 91kg (200 lb.) of delicious local sausages barbecued over a huge fire (prepared in the heart of the Santa Lucia neighborhood). The food is accompanied by bottles of excellent local wine. December 13.

Avellino Christmas Concerts, Avellino. For 5 days, the town is alive with music, as local choirs give concerts inside the town's beautiful cathedral. Contact the tourist office (tel. 0825-74732) for a program. Usually December 13 through December 18.

Feast of the Torrone, San Marco dei Cavoti. The typical Christmas candy, the torrone, becomes an occasion for celebrations in the little town that has been famous for making its special version -- the croccantino -- since the Middle Ages. You can taste all the variations of the treat along Via del Torrone (Via Roma), and then watch the building of a giant croccantino by local masters in the town's main square. Call the tourist office in Benevento (tel. 0824-319911) for more information. December 8 and the following weekends until Christmas.

Divers' Procession to Grotta dello Smeraldo, Conca dei Marini. Each December and January, a special pilgrimage embarks to this town's greatest attraction, Grotta dello Smeraldo. Local and guest scuba divers swim from the beach to an underwater manger inside the grotto. Call the visitor center in Amalfi at tel. 089-871107 for more information. December 24 and January 6.

Live Manger, Belvedere di San Leucio, Caserta. Come to see this hamlet turn the clock back to the 18th century with historical reenactments, music, and performances during the Christmas period. Contact the Caserta tourist office, (tel. 0823-550011) for information. December 25 to January 6.

Live Manger, Pietrelcina. This picturesque little town near Benevento hosts a reenactment of Christmas involving the whole town, with events spread over several days. December 27 through December 29.

Sagra della Zeppola (Feast of the Zeppola), Positano. Celebrants at this feast ring in the new year by feasting on zeppolas, delicious fried sweet pastries, and by enjoying the Kermesse of dances, music, and fireworks on the beach of Marina Grande. December 31 through January 1.

Visitor Information

The Italian National Tourist Board (www.italiantourism.com) is a good source of information before you go.

We also recommend writing directly (in English or Italian) to the local tourist boards for a variety of brochures as well as maps. The Campania tourist board covers the whole region; its address is Centro Direzionale Isola C/5, Napoli 80143 (tel. 081-7966111; fax 081-7958576; www.regione.campania.it).

Campania is administratively divided into five provinces, each with its own provincial tourist board (Ente Provinciale per Il Turismo, or EPT):

EPT Napoli (covering Naples, Phlegrean Fields, Herculaneum, Pompei, Ischia, Capri, and the Sorrento peninsula): Piazza dei Martiri 58, 80121 Napoli (tel. 081-4107211; fax 081-401961; www.eptnapoli.info).

EPT Salerno (covering Salerno, the Amalfi Coast, and the Cilento): Via Velia 15, Cap 84125 Salerno (tel. 089-230411; fax 089-251844; www.eptsalerno.it).

EPT Caserta (covering Caserta, Caserta Vecchia, and Capua): Palazzo Reale, 81100 Caserta (tel. 0823-322233; fax 0823-326300; www.casertaturismo.it).

EPT Avellino: Via Due Principati 5, 83100 Avellino (tel. 0825-74695; fax 0825-74757; www.provincia.avellino.it and www.e-irpinia.it).

EPT Benevento: Via Sala 31, 82100 Benevento (tel. 0824-319911; fax 0824-312309; www.eptbenevento.it).

Before You Leave Home: Tickets & Seats in Advance

You absolutely need advance reservations for the Capodimonte Museum in Naples (the one museum in Campania where lines are always several hours long because of the many special exhibits) and for special guided tours of Pompeii, but you might want to make reservations for a number of other attractions and events as well. The best place to make reservations is Pierreci (tel. 06-39967700; www.pierreci.it), the official advance reservation service for a number of museums and events in Campania and in Italy. To get tickets for all kinds of events, the best Italy-based operators are TicketOne (tel. 023-92261 [press 9 for an English-speaking operator]; www.ticketone.it); and Viva Ticket (www.vivaticket.it). They have English-language websites where you can make reservations and purchase tickets. U.S.-based companies offering advance tickets for a variety of museums and events in Italy are convenient, but they are usually more expensive and cover only a small selection of monuments and events. The best of these is Culturalitaly.com (tel. 800/380-0014; fax 928/639-0388; www.culturalitaly.com), a Los Angeles-based company that offers seats and reservations for operatic performances in Naples, special guided tours in Pompeii, and even tickets to the famed Festival of Ravello. Most reservations carry a $10 fee, plus the cost of the event.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports

You'll need a valid passport to enter Italy and Campania (the passport should be valid for at least 3 months beyond the period of stay). The length of your stay is determined by your visa. American, Canadian, Australian, New Zealand citizens, and those from a few other countries (check the list at www.esteri.it/visti) can stay up to 90 days without a visa; citizens from a country belonging to the Schengen area can enter with a simple identification card; other E.U. citizens, including Irish and British citizens, will need a passport.

Visas & Other Entry Requirements

European Union citizens, including U.K. and Ireland, do not need a visa.

Citizens from the United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and from a few other countries, don't need a visa to enter Italy or Campania if they don't expect to stay more than 90 days and don't expect to work or study there. Note: The 90 days refer to your total stay in the Schengen area, so if you are coming to Campania as part of a longer trip in Europe, make sure you do not exceed the time limit, or you'll need to obtain a visa before entering.

Citizens from all other countries need a visa for stays of any length.

Note: At the border you may be asked to produce the documents you presented to obtain your visa. Remember to carry them with you and have them handy at the border check.

Visit the website of the Italian Foreign Affairs Ministry at www.esteri.it/visti to find out if you need a visa.

Other Requirements: Foreigners entering Italy from a country outside the Schengen area and planning to stay more than 8 days also need to file a permesso di soggiorno (permit of stay). If you have already filed a permit of stay in another country in the Schengen area for this trip, you'll need to file a dichiarazione di soggiorno (declaration of stay) within 3 days of your entry in Italy. If you are flying from a country outside the Schengen area, the stamp you obtain on your passport at the airport is the equivalent of a permit of stay, but if you are entering Italy from a country within the Schengen area, you will need to file with the local police (you can also present the form at the local post office). Note: If you are staying in a hotel, the declaration of stay is automatically done for you by the hotel. But if you are staying in a private house, you'll need to handle the procedure yourself. Note also that failure to file is punished with expulsion from Italy. For the permit and declaration, you'll need a photocopy of your passport, two photographs, proof of medical insurance, proof of adequate means of financial support, and a photocopy of your return ticket. It is a simple routine check, and you should be able to breeze through this formality; just remember to bring all your documentation, including the documents you presented to obtain your visa, if you needed one.

To enter Italy and Campania you need to prove that you have adequate means of subsistence. That includes a place to stay, enough money to live during your stay and to return to your country, and medical insurance. At the border, you may be asked to show your return ticket as well as a hotel voucher or equivalent, and cash, traveler's checks, and credit or debit cards (or a bank account in Italy), with resources proportionate to the length of your stay.

Customs

Rules governing what tourists can bring in duty-free are detailed at www.agenziadogane.it (click on "Traveler's customs card"). If you are carrying currency in excess of a value of 10,000€, you will need to fill out a Customs declaration.

While there is no special limit on how much you can take out of Italy, certain items are restricted, in particular art objects: You'll need special permits for the export of objects more than 50 years old. Note: Italy adheres to CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), which means the purchase and export of protected species is prohibited. So is the purchase and export of copies of fashion items (think Vuitton or Chanel and the like) and other copyrighted material. The fines are steep; do not break the law!

For information on what you're allowed to take home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/227-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, ON, K1A 0L8, Canada (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845-010-9000, from outside the U.K.; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300-363-263; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington 6140 or 0800-428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Health & Safety

There are no particular health concerns in Campania. It is always, however, a good idea to protect yourself from mosquito bites, as an increasing number of diseases previously contained within the tropical areas of the world have started spreading. The World Health Organization recommends hepatitis A and B vaccines for travelers to any country in the world, including Europe and Italy, and to keep up-to-date with boosters for your childhood vaccinations.

During the past couple of years, Naples and its suburbs have been struggling with a garbage collection crisis due to the enmeshment of the local Camorra (a Mafia-like secret society) with the local contractors. As a result, refuse cyclically accumulates in many areas. As a form of protest, residents resorted to burning the piles of garbage, creating toxic fumes, which are particularly dangerous in summer. The authorities have largely tackled the problem, but, should it reoccur during your visit, avoid the fumes as they can aggravate respiratory problems.

Availability of Health Care: You'll find English-speaking doctors in most hospitals and pharmacies. Medical staff is generally well trained. The largest hospitals in the region are in Naples, but reputable hospitals, excellent private clinics, and smaller facilities exist in more remote places.

For travel abroad, you may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Medicare and Medicaid do not provide coverage for medical costs outside the U.S. Before leaving home, find out what medical services your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

U.K. nationals will need a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) to receive free or reduced-cost health benefits during a visit to a European Economic Area (EEA) country (European Union countries plus Iceland, Liechtenstein, and Norway) or Switzerland. The European Health Insurance Card replaces the E111 form, which is no longer valid. For advice, ask at your local post office or see www.dh.gov.uk/travellers.

Over-the-counter medicines are widely available in Campania, and prescriptions are easily filled in any pharmacy. Names of products will be different, so make sure you know the active ingredient of your brand and that your doctor writes the prescription clearly. Most likely you will find a pharmacist who will be able to assist you in finding an English-speaking doctor. If you are bringing prescription medications with you, pack them in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise they won't make it through security.

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716-754-4883, or 416-652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States's Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/232 4636; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. Travel Health Online (www.tripprep.com), sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable medical clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).

Dietary Red Flags -- You should always exercise caution when eating seafood, especially in summer when improperly refrigerated seafood spoils faster. Also, be cautious of street food. Water in Campania's cities and towns is potable. The quality varies in some areas of Naples, but hotels, restaurants, and bars all have their own water-purification systems. If you're still concerned, order bottled water.

Sun Exposure: Do not underestimate the sun when you visit archaeological areas such as Pompeii and Herculaneum in the summer, as heat stroke is not impossible. Always use sunscreen and a hat and carry an adequate water supply.

Safety

Campania is generally safe, though one of the biggest risks in the area is road accidents. Always be vigilant, particularly as a pedestrian, when crossing the street or walking in a narrow street with no sidewalk.

The crime rate in Campania is generally low, and most crimes occur in certain areas, such as near Naples's Stazione Centrale and in the poverty-stricken neighborhoods of the city's suburbs. Stay away from the narrow streets of Naples's historic district and from poor neighborhoods after dark.

The most common menace for the average tourist, especially in Naples, is the plague of pickpockets and car thieves. Pickpockets are active in all crowded places, particularly tourist areas. Note that they are sometimes dressed in elegant attire, and often work in pairs or groups, using various techniques, from distraction routines to razor blades to cut the bottom of your bag. Even savvy travelers must be vigilant.

The city center is also where most car thefts occur, although vehicles are always at risk, except in the most remote rural areas. Never leave valuables inside your car, never travel with your doors unlocked, and always park in a garage with an attendant. Be careful when traveling on highways at night, as robbery scams involve fake breakdowns being staged. Instead of stopping, call the police from your mobile; they'll send a car.

A good idea is to make photocopies of your important documents: tickets, passport, credit cards, and IDs. Make sure you keep them in a different pocket or bag than the originals. Also, if you rent a car, make sure there is no rental sticker on the car that could make you a target (tourists often have expensive gear, such as cameras and electronic devices). Also, make sure no luggage or other items are visible inside the car, such as in the back seat. Do not open your trunk and display the contents in the parking spot where you're planning to leave your car unguarded: Get what you need from your luggage ahead of time.

We have heard a few reports from other areas in Italy of robberies performed by individuals who befriend travelers at stations, airports, and bars, and then take advantage of their lower level of vigilance: Choose your friends carefully.

One further concern is ATM skimming. Attached to legitimate bank ATMs usually located in tourist areas, electronic devices can capture your credit card information and record your PIN through a pin-hole camera. Always make sure the ATM you are planning to use does not look as if it has been tampered with, and cover the keypad with one hand as you enter your PIN.

Italian law is generally fair; but if you commit a crime, the law will be enforced. Do not drink and drive, do not traffic or carry illegal drugs, do not engage in illicit sexual activities, do not litter, and do not exhibit loud and drunken behavior. If you are driving, respect the rules of the road. Also note that if you make any kind of purchase, from a cafe, to a meal in a restaurant, to a handbag, the vendor is required by law to give you an official receipt and you are required to keep it with you for a few hundred yards after coming out of the shop.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Responsible tourism is a key conservation element on the Amalfi Coast and surrounding areas. Nature has done its best to protect itself here, with steep cliffs making construction difficult for developers, but the resulting beauty attracts so many tourists, both local and international, that the entire region is at serious risk. Overbuilding, forest fires, and overuse of water resources are the region's top problems, together with marine pollution: All of these are exacerbated by the enormous tourist pressure. The dawning of conservation and sustainable tourism in recent years has made the local tourist industry well aware of the fragility of the local environment and committed to protect it, together with the Italian government and the numerous local associations working for its preservation. Water and sewage management plans are active in most hotels and restaurants, and a large number of them buy only local produce and services. Shortsighted developers, backed by organized crime, are still very active, though, and constantly try to encroach on protected land, often resorting to arson. We can all make a difference by choosing sustainable resorts and accommodations, and by respecting the local ecosystem.

Naples might hardly be what you picture as an eco-friendly destination, but the rest of the region is actually one of the prime destinations for eco-tourism in Italy.

Campania is home to Italy's second-largest national park -- the Cilento -- and to a large number of parks and nature preserves, including the National Park of Mount Vesuvius, the miniarea of the Valle delle Ferriere in Amalfi, and the marine bioparks of Baia (near Pozzuoli), Procida, Ischia, Punta Campanella (Massa Lubrense), parts of Capri, and of the Cilento coast.

You'll also find a great number of agriturismi, working farms that increase their income by turning themselves into small resorts (similar to some ranches in the United States). This movement has been successfully promoted by the Italian government to reduce acquisition of abandoned farms by developers, and to protect natural areas, and has found a perfect home in Campania, where the countryside often offers dramatic natural attractions and close proximity to the seaside. Also, most of the agriturismi have embraced the organic movement, adding increased environmental benefit. Operations are controlled through methods such as surprise inspections, and agriturismi are strictly regulated by law to prevent exploitation by corporations and developers: In order to obtain the right to call itself an agriturismo, the farm must: (a) offer fewer than 30 beds total; and (b) make most of its profits from the agricultural component of the property -- in other words, the property has to remain a farm and not become a glorified hotel.

Staying in an agriturismo is a great way to contribute to green tourism in Italy; it can also be quite attractive for the special amenities it offers.

Throughout this guide we recommend services that are committed to sustainable tourism. These hotels may have bathroom fixtures that reduce the amount of wasted water, soap dispensers to reduce the number of empty plastic bottles and unused soap that ends up in the garbage, and energy-saving bulbs. They increasingly rely on energy derived from solar or wind power, and they also invite guests to save water by using towels and bed sheets for more than 1 night. They often have made or are enacting plans for the recycling of gray water, and reduce plastic use by offering fresh, local, and often organic foods rather than industrial prepackaged breakfast goods, and water bottled in recyclable glass bottles.

Several local organizations are good resources: Associazione Italiana Turismo Responsabile (www.aitr.org), Legambiente (www.legambiente.eu) and its regional section for Campania (www.legambiente.campania.it), FAI (Fondo Ambiente Italiano; www.fondoambiente.it), and WWF Italy (www.wwf.it). We also recommend a few excellent operators: Planet Viaggi (www.planetviaggi.it) organizes enticing eco-tours in Naples and the Cilento, CTS (Centro Turismo Studentesco; www.cts.it), and AMEntelibera (www.viaggiamentelibera.it).

Staying Connected

Telephones

Local pay phones in Italy require prepaid telephone cards, called a carta or scheda telefonica, which you can buy at a tobacconist (tabacchi, marked by a sign with a white T on a black background), bar, or newsstand. The local Telecom card is available for 3€ and 5€: the duration depends on the place you are calling (within Italy or abroad), but they only last sufficient time for relatively brief calls and are valid for 1 month from the first time you use them. The card has a perforated corner that you need to tear off before inserting it into the phone slot.

To make international calls you need to purchase an international prepaid card, which varies depending on which country you will be calling the most. The cards are sold at tobacconists and some bars and newsstands. They usually allow from 200 to 700 minutes call time for 5€. You need to scratch the back to reveal the secret code and dial it after the access code indicated on the card; then dial the number you want to call.

More convenient but not necessarily cheaper is to have: (1) your own calling card linked to your home phone, or (2) a prepaid calling card that you pay monthly by credit card; both are good options. Some calling cards offer a toll-free access number in Italy, while others do not; the first kind is obviously more convenient. When calling from a public phone booth, you sometimes need to put in money or a carta telefonica just to obtain the dial tone, even if you are using a prepaid card; you may be charged only for a local call or not at all. Check with your calling-card provider before leaving on your trip.

You can also make collect calls directly by calling the operator or through a telephone provider in your country. For AT&T, dial tel. 800-1724444; for MCI, dial tel. 800-905825; and for Sprint, dial tel. 800-172405 or 800-172406.

Remember that calling from a hotel is convenient but usually very expensive.

To call Italy:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, and New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code for Italy: 39.

3. Dial the local area code and then the number. Telephone numbers in Italy can have any number of digits depending on the location and the type of telephone line, which can be very confusing to foreigners. The amount of numbers can range from five (for special switchboards of hospitals and other public services, such as the railroad info line of Trenitalia, tel. 892021 for example) to a maximum of 10 (for some land lines and all cellular lines). Telephone numbers always include the area code, which can have two or three digits. Area codes begin with 0, for land lines, or 3, for cellular lines; and you always need to dial the 0.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Italy, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next, dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Dial tel. 1240.

For operator assistance: Dial tel. 170; the service is available only from 7am to midnight.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 800 or 888 within Italy are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Italy is not toll-free: It costs the same as an overseas call.

Mobile Phones

If you have a dual-band or triband GSM phone, it will work in Italy and all over Europe. The bandwidth used in Europe for GSM phones is 900-1800 hertz. Just call your wireless operator and ask for "international roaming" to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, charges can be high -- anywhere from $1 to $5 per minute.

You can enjoy much cheaper rates by renting or buying an Italian SIM card. You might need to have your phone unlocked by your provider at home so that it will function with any SIM card and network. You can buy an Italian prepaid SIM card, called scheda pre-pagata, in mobile phone shops, which exist in most towns throughout Italy. Major networks that have excellent local coverage in the region are Telecom Italia (TIM), Vodafone, Wind, and H3G. The SIM is encoded with the phone number that will be yours for the time of your stay. The scheda pre-pagata costs 25€, 50€, 80€, 100€, or 150€.

The other option is to rent a phone with the bandwidth used in Europe and a local SIM card. A number of companies offer mobile phones for rent, and you may also be able to add a phone to your car rental.

North Americans can rent a mobile before leaving home from Context Travel (www.contexttravel.com). The company will ship the phone to you in the U.S. 10 days before your departure (you'll then ship it back to them in Philadelphia). You can also have a phone shipped to you in Italy. Incoming calls are free.

Other useful resources are InTouch USA (tel. 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost (tel. 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas; simply call tel. 703/222-7161 between 9am and 4pm EST, or go to http://intouchglobal.com/travel.htm.

Internet & Wi-Fi

An increasing number of hotels and resorts in the region are becoming "hotspots" that offer free high-speed Wi-Fi access or charge a small fee for usage. If you are planning to carry your laptop, check www.jiwire.com and their Wi-Fi Finder, the world's largest directory of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most medium- and upper-range hotels in the region offer dataports in the room unless they offer Wi-Fi.

Note: Italy uses 220V electricity and round-pronged plugs. Always bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable -- or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests. Most phone plugs in hotels and private homes throughout Italy have been upgraded to the standard phone jack used on computers, but some of the old ones with three round prongs are still in use. You can easily buy an adaptor at any local hardware store if your hotel doesn't have one for you.

If you are not planning to bring your laptop, a number of hotels in the area offer Internet access for their clients, usually free of charge, or they'll know how to direct you to the closest paying Internet point in town: You'll find one everywhere but the most remote location. For a directory of cybercafes in the region check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Tips for Women Travelers

Naples used to be on the black list for women travelers, but conditions have improved enormously after years of refurbishment in the city's historical district. Southern Italians are also much more accustomed to seeing blond visitors.

However, women chronically attract men's attention and often have to fend off their proffered "friendship." Most often, ignoring remarks, avoiding eye contact, and proceeding on your way as if you hadn't noticed anything is the best approach.

Always dress appropriately. Especially in summer, remember that Italian women are attired more conservatively in urban surroundings than their counterparts in the United States: Reserve your strappy tanks and short shorts for the beach, ladies.

Should you ever perceive a real threat, immediately request assistance from a policeman, a storekeeper, or even a passerby (elderly women are usually perceived as particularly forbidding by young Italian males). In general, avoid seedy neighborhoods where you don't see many women strolling around, and use your common sense. Also women should not walk around alone in sketchy neighborhoods after dark.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Laws in Campania and in Italy have compelled train stations, airports, hotels, and most restaurants to follow a stricter set of regulations for wheelchair accessibility to restrooms, ticket counters, and the like. Museums and other attractions have conformed to the regulations, which mimic many of those presently in effect in the United States. Always call ahead to check on accessibility in hotels, restaurants, and sights you want to visit.

Local resources include Accessible Italy (www.accessibleitaly.com), a nonprofit association based in San Marino (the ministate in central Italy), which offers specialized tours and assistance for organizing your own vacation, including rental of equipment and lists of accessible accommodations and other services.