The surroundings date to 1400, with a pleasant old-world decor that befits the provenance and gracious service to match, and the menu leans to old Ferrarese classics—some residents say no one does them better. This is the place to become acquainted with cappellacci di zucca, the city’s signature dish, little pockets of light egg pasta stuffed with the pulp of roasted butternut squash with hints of nutmeg and parmigiano. Much of the meat-heavy secondi features local beef grilled over a wood. The house semifreddo, a delicious half-frozen custard with pistachio and walnuts or mint, is the perfect finish.