Planning a trip to Iceland

Calendar of Events

January

New Year's Day. This is really a 2-day holiday, as nothing reopens until January 3. January 1.

Tþrettándinn. This day marks the end of the Christmas season. Icelanders celebrate with a kind of New Year's Eve reprise, including bonfires, fireworks, and traditional songs, while kids throw snowballs at cars. January 6.

Tþorrablót. This ancient Viking mid-winter tradition—named for Tþorri, a month in the old Icelandic calendar—was originally a feast of sacrifice involving the blood of oxen and goats. Contemporary celebrations involve dancing, singing, drinking, and eating traditional Norse specialties, including singed sheep's head, pickled rams' testicles, and putrefied shark. Tþorrablót dinners can be found in some Reykjavík restaurants; in smaller towns, visitors are often invited to join the locals. From the Friday that falls within January 19 to January 25 through most of February.

February

Food and Fun. For 4 days Reykjavík's best restaurants create discounted set menus. In a televised competition, top international chefs are challenged to create dishes on the spot from purely Icelandic ingredients. Late February.

Winter Lights Festival. Reykjavík is dramatically lit up for this cornucopia of cultural events: anything from fashion shows to figure skating to outdoor choral performances to belly-dancing troupes. Late February.

Bolludagur. "Bun Day" is celebrated by eating cream puffs (bollur) in multiple varieties. In the morning children aim to catch their parents still in bed, and then beat them with colorfully decorated "bun wands" (bolluvondur). Parents are then obligated to give their children one cream puff for each blow received. Monday before Ash Wednesday.

Sprengidagur. The name of this holiday translates to "bursting day" and is celebrated by eating salted meat and peas to the point of popping. Many restaurants participate. Day before Ash Wednesday.

Ash Wednesday (Öskudagur). Children dress in costume and traipse around town singing for candy. It's much like Halloween, and also a day for pranks. Seventh Wednesday before Easter.

March/April

Beer Day. This unofficial holiday marks the anniversary of Iceland's 1989 legalization of beer with an alcohol content above 2.2%. Guess how it's celebrated. March 1.

Easter Sunday. Easter holds special meaning in Iceland, as it marks the end of the long, dark winter. Many workers get a full 5 days off, from Holy Thursday to Easter Monday—closures can cause difficulties for tourists. Families gather and celebrate with smoked lamb and huge chocolate eggs. Easter weekend is especially lively in Ísafjörður, the cultural center of the Westfjords, with skiing competitions and the I Never Went South rock music festival. March or April.

First Day of Summer. Summer starts early in the old Icelandic calendar. The end of long winter nights is celebrated with gift-giving, parades, street entertainment, and sporting events. The Thursday that falls within April 19 to April 25.

May

Rites of Spring Festival. This privately run event focuses on cutting-edge folk, jazz, and world music. May.

June

Reykjavík Arts Festival. For two weeks, Reykjavík is swept up in this government-sponsored event. Many international artists and performers are included. June.

Seafarer's Day & Festival of the Sea. This holiday honors those who make their living by the sea, and is celebrated across the country with parades, cultural events, great seafood, and rowdy parties. Fishermen partake in rescue demonstrations, swimming and rowing races, and various strongman competitions. First weekend of June.

National Day. This public holiday marks Iceland's full independence from Denmark in 1944. The day starts off on a solemn and patriotic note, but by afternoon crowds have flocked to the streets to watch parades, traditional dancing, street performers, and theatrical entertainment. (One of the most meaningful gatherings is at Tþingvellir National Park, where the Icelandic parliament first assembled in 930.) Each town celebrates in its own way, so check locally for details. June 17.

Summer Solstice. On the longest day of the year, many Icelanders gather late at night to watch the sun dip below the horizon and scoop back up again shortly afterward. Formally organized events are rare, but visitors are usually welcome to join local celebrations. Each year Ferðafélag Íslands organizes an all-night climb up the volcano Hekla. June 21.

Arctic Open. This 4-day championship golfing tournament in Akureyri, open to professionals and amateurs, continues into the morning hours under the midnight sun. Late June.

Viking Festival. Modern-day Viking hordes descend on Hafnarfjörður, a town neighboring Reykjavík, for traditional crafts, merrymaking in period costume, and staged battles with Christian forces. Mid-June.

Akureyri Summer Arts Festival. For 10 weeks in summer, Iceland's "northern capital" hosts an assortment of concerts and exhibitions in venues across town. Late June to August.

August

Verslunarmannahelgi (August Long Weekend or Bank Holiday Weekend). On this party weekend, Icelanders often leave town and camp out en masse. The most well-known destination is the Westman Islands, where locals join thousands of visitors at the campgrounds to hear live bands and gather round the bonfire into the morning hours. Plenty of events also take place in towns. First weekend in August.

Gay Pride. The biggest Pride event in Iceland includes a parade, concerts, theater, and all-night parties. Second weekend in August.

Reykjavík Marathon and Culture Night. Surely the thousands of participants in Reykjavík's annual marathon appreciate the purity of the air. The rest of the day and night are loaded with free concerts and cultural events, and once it's reasonably dark, a fireworks display kicks off. Third weekend in August.

Reykjavík Jazz Festival. Icelandic and international groups in a variety of styles play clubs and theaters across town. End of August/early September.

Reykjavík Dance Festival. Contemporary choreographers from around the world are invited to participate in this 4-day event. End of August/early September.

September

Reykjavík International Film Festival. This 10-day event includes film classics, premieres, retrospectives, seminars, and workshops. Late September/early October.

October

Iceland Airwaves. This 3-day showcase of Iceland's alternative/indie musical talent (with a few international bands thrown in) attracts tons of visitors. Crowds are thick with notepad-wielding journalists and talent scouts; when the bands are through, top DJs spin until dawn. Icelandair sponsors Airwaves and arranges special packages from Europe and America. Mid-October.

December

Christmas season. In late December, Icelanders only get 4 or 5 hours of daylight, which could explain their enthusiasm for Christmas and its lights. Icelandic children count the 13 days leading up to the holiday with a group of "yuletide lads," all offspring of a grotesque troll named Grýla. (In traditional lore Grýla ate naughty children, but, in the 18th century, threatening them with Grýla was outlawed.) Each day from December 12 to December 24, a different lad descends from the mountains into human homes. Each lad is named for the mischief he gets into: Sausage Snatcher, Door Slammer, Bowl Licker, and so on. At bedtime children leave a shoe in the window, and wake up to find a small present from the nighttime visitor. From Christmas Day through January 6 they come in succession all over again.

New Year's Eve. Private use of fireworks is legal this one night only, and the entire citizenry sets the skies ablaze in celebration. (Reykjavík is a particularly chaotic sight.) Oceanside bonfires are another New Year's ritual. For a more refined experience in Reykjavík, try the trumpet and organ recital in Hallgrímskirkja.

When to Go

Iceland has a concentrated tourist season, peaking from mid-June through August. Many Icelanders think the summer tourists don't know what they're missing. Iceland offers plenty to do in spring, fall, even winter, and prices are dramatically lower for airfares, car rentals, and accommodations. Icelanders are avid Christmas celebrators, and the Aurora Borealis is remarkably vivid in winter. Most off-season visitors use Reykjavík as a home base, and combine city culture and nightlife with activities such as horseback riding, snowmobiling, and visiting spas.

High Season

On the other hand, high season is high season for good reason. Most tours and adventure trips to Iceland's most renowned natural attractions end after September. Roads in the hinterlands are generally closed from October to mid-May, and some don't open until early July. Precipitation increases in September, peaking from October through February, and frequent storms and driving rain are enough to dissuade many would-be winter adventurers.

The tourist high season corresponds with vacation time for Icelanders, but things don't shut down the way they do in, say, France. Icelanders work longer hours than most Europeans, and vacationing students fill seasonal service jobs. Some cultural institutions (theater, symphony, opera) take the summer off, while most museums outside Reykjavík are only open in summer. Arts and cultural festivals are also clustered in summer, except in Reykjavík, where they gravitate to the "shoulder" seasons (Apr-May and Sept-Oct).

In timing your visit, consider also that the number of daylight hours can have unanticipated physical and emotional effects. In early summer there is never complete darkness and the sun stays low to the horizon, creating an ongoing play of color and shadow. Spring and fall daylight hours are roughly the same as in North America or Europe. Days in mid-winter have only 4 or 5 hours of sunlight. These fluctuations are even more extreme in the northern part of the country.

Off-Season

Tourists arrive en masse in June and disappear just as abruptly in early September, so Icelanders compare them to flocks of migrating birds. However, more and more visitors are coming in the off season, particularly for short vacations centered on Reykjavík. Nightlife and spas are major draws, and winter adventure travel—particularly backcountry skiing, glacier snowmobiling, and Jeep touring—is also catching on. With fewer tourists around, locals can be especially hospitable and welcoming. Prices are dramatically lower for airfares, accommodations, and car rentals, but don't expect price breaks from mid-December to mid-January.

Most museums outside Reykjavík shut down off season, while some Reykjavík cultural institutions—notably the Icelandic Opera, headquartered at the world's northernmost opera house—are only open off season. With fewer organized tours to choose from, visitors usually depend on rental cars to get around. Most major roads are plowed all year, including all of the Ring Road (Rte. 1). Winter driving conditions can be hazardous, however, and in the dead of winter, some villages can be completely cut off for days at a time. Most mountain roads and interior routes are impassable in the off season, except in specially adapted "Super Jeeps."

Icelandic winters are surprisingly moderate but have just 4 to 6 hours of daylight. Remember that late winter has more sunlight than early winter, with a corresponding increase in organized tours. From September through March, the night is dark enough to see the Aurora Borealis (aka "Northern Lights"), the startling electromagnetic phenomenon in which shafts and swirls of green (or sometimes orange or blue) light spread across the sky. Of course, depending on the weather, some off-season visitors may see only clouds.

The shoulder seasons—April to May and September to October—can be wonderful times to visit, though some destinations are inaccessible. A good general strategy is to shoot for the outlying weeks of the high season for each destination.

Off-Season Outdoor Activities—Of particular interest are aerial tours, dog sledding, fishing, glacier tours, hiking, horseback riding, jeep tours, pools and spas, and skiing and ski touring. Icelanders even like to golf on snow-covered courses, using bright orange balls.

Off-Season Destinations

Reykjavík & Nearby—Reykjavík remains equally vibrant year-round—after all, the weather has little bearing on its appeal. Cultural activities and nightlife show no signs of winter weariness, and Reykjavíkians still throng to their outdoor geothermal pools even if snow gathers in their hair. See the Calendar of Events for Reykjavík's many off-season festivals.

The capital is particularly lively and heartwarming during the Christmas season. Each weekend, starting in late November, the neighboring town of Hafnarfjörður hosts an elaborate Christmas Village with caroling choirs, trinket stalls, and costumed elves. On New Year's Eve, many visitors shuttle to Reykjavík just to take part in the Bacchanalian celebrations.

Day tours from the capital are less varied but hardly in short supply. The popular Golden Circle tour runs year-round, and two of its principal highlights—the Strokkur geyser and Gullfoss waterfall—are even more captivating in winter. Various companies also lead nightly Northern Lights tours in search of the Aurora Borealis. The Blue Lagoon spa in Reykjanes Peninsula is strange and magical in wintertime, with far fewer crowds.

Outside the Capitol Area—Compelling winter destinations outside Iceland's southwest corner are too numerous to list, but two regions deserve special mention: West Iceland and Lake Mývatn-Krafla Caldera in the north.

In the west, the wondrously varied scenery of Snæfellsnes Peninsula makes for a great road trip year-round, and Hótel Búðir, an idyllic getaway on the peninsula's south coast, is always open. Ísafjörður, the appealing Westfjords capital, is especially buzzing during its Easter Week music and ski festivals. Two marvelous country retreats in the Westfjords remain open all year: the Heydalur Country Hotel, along Ísafjarðardjúp Bay, and Hótel Djúpavík on the entrancing Strandir Coast.

Akureyri, Iceland's northern capital, is alive and kicking in the off season, with the country's best ski slope Hlíðarfjall close by. Many winter visitors fly to Akureyri, rent a car, and spend a couple of days surveying the myriad volcanic spectacles of Mývatn and Krafla. The geothermally heated lagoon of Mývatn Nature Baths remains open, and Sel-Hótel Mývatn arranges Jeep and snowmobile excursions, horseback riding, and go-cart joyrides on the lake. The cross-country skiing is fabulous from February onward, and, in April and May, the lake twitches with bird-watchers ushering in the tourist season.

Iceland & Greenland?

If you’ve ever wanted to explore Greenland, your trip to Iceland could be an ideal opportunity. Iceland is Greenland’s closest access point by plane, and you can even visit on a day tour. Air Iceland (tel. 570-3030) flies year-round from Reykjavík to Greenland’s east coast, and once or twice a week in summer to south or east Greenland.

Special-Interest Vacations

Special Interest & Educational Tours

Smithsonian Journeys (tel. 877/338-8687; www.smithsonianjourneys.com), affiliated with the Smithsonian Institution, hosts several educational trips focusing on geology, hydro power, and Icelandic culture. 

Discover the World (tel. 01737-214-250) lead educational trips to Iceland for schools, with four scheduled itineraries focusing on different topics, such as geography and biology. Ísafold Travel (tel. 544-8866) has educational tours in geology and energy technology.

Icelandic Ancestry

The Snorri Program (tel. 551-0165; www.snorri.is) provides an opportunity for young North Americans of Icelandic descent to explore their heritage. The main 6-week program (mid-June through July) is for ages 18 to 28, but older visitors can join a modified 2-week program in late August.

Vegetarian Travel

Icelandic diets are meat-heavy, but fresh vegetables have become more widely available in recent years, partly because of local production in geothermally heated greenhouses. And, of course, there’s plenty of fish. Pasta dishes are common on menus. The few vegetarian restaurants and health-food stores in the country are concentrated in Reykjavík and Akureyri. Happy Cow’s Vegetarian Guide is a good resource.

Volunteer & Working Trips

Seeds Iceland (tel. 845-6178) sets up volunteer 2-week “work camps” for projects ranging from environmental cleanups and trail marking to preparation for local cultural festivals.

WWOOF connects travelers who want to stay and work on organic farms, usually from a few weeks to a few months. In return, farms offer food and accommodation. Several important Icelandic farms are plugged into the network, including the enchanting Móðir Jörð, just south of Egilsstaðir.

Go Abroad maintains an excellent database of volunteer vacation opportunities, with several options in Iceland.

Women’s Tours

Canyon Calling (tel. 928/282-0916), based in Sedona, Arizona, leads a cost-conscious 8-day multi-activity trip for women in early July. Activities include sightseeing, hiking, rafting, whale-watching, and horseback riding.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Iceland was much more homophobic in 1978, when the country's first gay organization was founded in Reykjavík. The small population and close-knit family networks made it difficult for gays and lesbians to escape the disapproval of older generations. Today, same-sex marriages are legal, several prominent cultural figures are openly gay, and the former Icelandic Prime Minister Jóhanna Sigurðardóttir made history in June 2010 by becoming the first head of state to marry her same-sex partner legally. Outside Reykjavík there isn’t any gay scene to speak of, but the worst any gay couple is likely to encounter is a frown.

The main gay and lesbian group in Iceland is Samtökin ’78, Laugavegur 3, 4th floor, Reykjavík (tel. 552-7878), open Monday to Friday 1 to 5pm. The group holds open-house social gatherings at the Rainbow Cafe Mondays and Thursdays 8 to 11:30pm and Saturdays 9pm to 1am. Q-Félag Stúdenta, in the same office (tel. 848-5271), is the gay and lesbian student group at the University of Iceland. It welcomes e-mails from young visitors.

The best online schedule of gay events is found at www.gayice.is. The Reykjavík Gay Pride Festival usually takes place the first week of August.

Fast Facts

Electricity: Icelandic electricity runs at 220 volts, 50 Hz AC, and electric sockets have two round plugs; you may need an “international” power adapter that regulates the current to prevent damage, particularly if you are bringing your laptop. Icelandic phone jacks are the same as in North America.

Holidays: Icelanders celebrate 13 public holidays each year, and many shops, banks, and other businesses are closed on those days. It’s best to check to make sure your destination will be open before setting out.

Holidays include New Year’s Day (January 1); Easter weekend (including Maundy Thursday, Good Friday, and Easter Monday); the First Day of Summer (late April); Labour Day (May 1); Ascension Day (40 days after Easter); Whitmonday (7th Monday after Easter); Independence Day (June 17); Commerce Day (1st Monday in August); Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (Dec 24 and 25); and St. Stephens Day (Dec 26).

Smoking: In 2007, smoking was banned in all bars, restaurants, cafes, hotels, and other accommodations. Smokers huddle outside, swathed in blankets under heat lamps.

Tips on Accommodations

Hotels

The word "hotel" generally signifies the most luxurious choice in town, but not all hotels are superior to or more expensive than guesthouses, and not all "hotel" rooms even have private bathrooms. Expect to pay at least 10,000kr for the most basic hotel double with a private bathroom, 8,000kr for one without a private bathroom, or 20,000kr for an average business-style room.

International chains have few footholds in Iceland. Icelandic chains are more common. Icelandair Hotels (tel. 444-4000) has nine three- and four-star hotels around the country. Its subsidiary Edda Hotels (tel. 444-4000) has eight summer-only hotels, mostly in student housing. Kea Hotels (tel. 460-2000) has 11 two- to four-star hotels.

Guesthouses

Gistiheimilið (guesthouses) are a time-honored Scandinavian institution closely related to the bed-and-breakfast. Rooms, usually in private houses, are most often cheaper than hotels and range in quality from the equivalent of a two-star hotel to a hostel. Private bathrooms are rare, but most guesthouses are likely to have cooking facilities, sleeping-bag accommodation (see below), or a family-size apartment fitting four to six people. Because Icelanders have a highly developed sense of personal privacy, the proprietors often live in a separate house. Standards of cleanliness are usually very high.

Prices vary; a double with a shared bathroom ranges from 6,000kr to 25,000kr. About half of Icelandic guesthouses include breakfast in the room price, and the rest usually offer breakfast for an extra 1,200kr to 1,800kr or so per person.

Farm Holidays

Staying at farmhouses is the classic Icelandic way to travel. Every farm has its own road sign, and farm names are often unchanged from the Age of Settlement.

A farm stay is simply a guesthouse in farm surroundings; comforts are similar to those of a European bed-and-breakfast. Hey Iceland lists more than 60 farm holidays.

Sleeping-Bag Accommodation

For hardy visitors on a budget, the Icelandic custom of svefnpoka gisting, or "sleeping-bag accommodation," can feel like a gift from the travel gods. In many guesthouses, farm stays, and even some hotels, travelers with their own sleeping bags can get around 35% to 50% off on room rates. For the most part the beds, rooms, and amenities are the same; you're simply sparing the management the trouble of washing sheets.

The Case for Hostels

Iceland’s dozens of youth hostels are hardly the exclusive domain of young backpackers. All have good basic standards of service and cleanliness. Some are almost indistinguishable from guesthouses or farm stays. Some offer doubles, though most rooms sleep three to six; private bathrooms are rare. All hostels give you the option of sleeping-bag accommodation or sheet rental and have guest kitchens; some offer meals and self-service laundry. In some remote destinations, hostels may be your only option for lodging and dining, and an excellent source of tourist information.

All youth hostels in Iceland can be booked through one convenient central office (tel. 575-6700). The website includes good deals on adventure tours and a popular car-rental package with hostel vouchers. Hostels tend to fill up even faster than hotels and guesthouses in high season, so plan ahead. Many hostels close in winter. Children ages 5 to 12 usually stay for half-price.

A Youth Hostelling International membership, which gives you a 20% discount on rates, can be purchased before you leave home.

Camping

Iceland’s heavy winds and rains present a serious challenge for campers, but Iceland’s many campsites make the country far more accessible to visitors of limited means, provided they have the appropriate equipment. Camping typically costs only 800kr to 1,600kr per person per night, and a few municipal campsites are free. Icelandic campsites are safe, conveniently located, and plentiful: Virtually every village has one. Some have washing machines, electricity, hot showers, and kitchens; others have only a cold-water tap and toilets. Most campsites are only open June through mid-September.

The Camping Card grants you (plus spouse and up to four children under the age of 16) up to 28 nights in more than 40 campsites across the country for the entire summer for only 15,500kr. The website has a list and map of participating sites. The card can be purchased online or in Iceland at Olis stations and post offices. Nordic Adventure Travel also has a helpful map of the sites. The free directory Tjaldsvæði Íslands is available at tourist information centers.

Reykjavík Center takes it up a notch by indicating availability of rooms or sleeping spaces within a specified time frame. Despite its name, it covers the whole country.

Money-Saving Tips

• Book rooms with access to a kitchen. Restaurants are particularly expensive in Iceland, and you can save money by cooking for yourself.
• Ask about apartments and “family rooms” if you are in a group of three or more. These types of rooms are very common in Iceland, but not always well advertised.
• Act noncommittal. Many Icelandic guesthouses quote different prices to different people. Always ask for a price before committing, even if the guesthouse has a published rate. They could quote something lower to snag your business.
• Be wary of packages and group tour rates. Icelandic guesthouses often quote a higher rate to a travel agent than to an individual calling directly, especially outside of Reykjavík.
• Ask about special rates or other discounts. You may qualify for corporate, student, military, senior, frequent flier, trade union, or other discounts. Children’s discounts are very common in Iceland.
• Book online. Internet-only discounts are very common in Iceland; many places have a standard discount every time you book online. Some supply rooms to Priceline, Hotwire, or Expedia at rates lower than the ones you can get through the hotel itself.
• Remember the law of supply and demand. You can save big on hotel rooms by touring in Iceland’s off-season or shoulder seasons, when rates typically drop, even at luxury properties

Landing the Best Room

Visitors often assume they want a room with lots of natural light. In the nonstop daylight of Iceland’s early summer, however, you might want to request a room with less sun exposure and/or good blackout curtains.

If you’re a light sleeper, ask for a quieter room away from vending or ice machines, elevators, restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. Icelanders have a well-earned reputation for late-night partying on Friday and Saturday nights.

Note: Top sheets are generally not even an option in Iceland. Also, filter coffeemakers are rare: coffee/tea-making facilities usually consist of an electric hot water kettle, instant coffee, and teabags.

Regions in Brief

Iceland is about the size of Ireland and has fewer than 400,000 inhabitants. Most Icelanders live close to the coast, as the interior is largely an uninhabitable desert, impassable in winter.

Iceland's topography and unified culture do not lend themselves easily to geographic subdivisions. Route 1, known as the "Ring Road," circles the entire island but does not reach the Westfjords or many coastal towns. Chapters 7 through 10 are organized directionally; chapters 7 (West) and 8 (North) "lead" you from Reykjavík to Egilsstaðir (the transportation hub of East Iceland) clockwise, and chapters 9 (South) and 10 (East) do the same counterclockwise.

Reykjavík & Nearby: Most Icelanders live in the southwest corner of the island. Reykjavík, Iceland's appealing capital, has zoomed to international prominence in recent decades, even becoming a trendsetter in music and nightlife. The center of town can be crossed in 30 minutes on foot, but a few miles of urban sprawl have absorbed neighboring towns such as Kópavogur and Hafnarfjörður.

From Reykjavík, many visitors take the "Golden Circle" day tour to Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir (for which all geysers are named), and Tþingvellir National Park, where the first Icelandic parliament convened in the year 930.

Keflavík International Airport, the gateway for most international travelers, is on the Reykjanes Peninsula, southwest of Reykjavík. The peninsula's barren, lava-strewn landscape has several interesting sites, including Iceland's most popular tourist attraction, the Blue Lagoon spa.

West: North of Reykjavík, the Snaefellsness Peninsula is known for whale-watching, glacier tours, and stunning stretches of coastline. The Westfjords have sea cliffs and isolated, picturesque villages.

North: The north is anchored by Akureyri, Iceland's second city. The town of Húsavík, an hour to the east, is Iceland's best whale-watching port. The region around Lake Mývatn features wild geological formations, bubbling mud pools, and great bird-watching. The canyon park of Jökulsárgljúfur is a prime hiking destination.

South: South Iceland is packed with attractions and makes for one of the greatest driving trips in the world. Landmannalaugar, Tþórsmörk, and Skaftafell National Park are supreme hiking areas. The dramatic sea cliffs of the Westman Islands are perfect for puffin-spotting, and Heimaey, the main town, is half-buried in lava from a devastating 1973 eruption. The coastal town of Vík features wonderful cliff walks and black sand beaches. Further east is Iceland's best-known roadside attraction: Jökulsárlón, a surreal lake of icebergs calved from a glacier.

East: Europe's largest glacier, Vatnajökull, anchors Iceland's southeast corner. Glacier trips often leave from the nearby town of Höfn. Further north, Egilsstaðir is the main business and transportation hub for the region. Ferries to the rest of Europe leave from the port of Seyðisfjörður, the prettiest town in the Eastfjords. In the Eastfjords north of Seyðisfjörður, Borgarfjörður Eystri is one of Iceland's best but least-known hiking areas.

Interior: Desolate and otherworldly, the interior makes for an unforgettable adventure. In the Askja crater range you can swim in a lukewarm volcanic lake, and Kverkfjöll features bizarre ice formations formed by hot springs emerging from Vatnajökull.

Tips for Vegetarian Travelers

The traditional Icelandic diet is meat-heavy, but fresh vegetables have become more widely available in recent years, partly because of local production in geothermally heated greenhouses. The highest concentration of vegetarian restaurants and health-food stores can be found in Reykjavík and Akureyri.

HappyCow and VegDining.com are good resources for vegan and vegetarian dining options.

Tips on Dining

Several imaginative and exciting restaurants are leading the culinary charge in Reykjavík. The enthusiasm is palpable—sometimes waitstaff can hardly wait to explain everything happening on your plate.

Icelanders like their food saucy, salty, and well-seasoned. In good restaurants, this only complements the natural flavors of the base ingredients. Otherwise, you'll become adept at scraping sauce to the side of your plate.

Icelandic ingredients are remarkably free of contaminants. Antibiotics, added hormones, and pesticides are rare. The meat could even be described as aromatic, reflecting the healthy outdoor lifestyle of the poultry and livestock.

Restaurant service is almost always friendly and helpful, if not ingratiating. In general, waitstaff like being asked for advice when ordering. As in much of Europe, you may have to tackle someone to get your bill.

Fish & Lamb

Menu advice can be crudely edited down to two words: fish and lamb.

Icelandic lambs roam so freely that they can almost be described as game meat. Many Icelanders claim they can taste the wild berries, moss, and herbs that the lambs feed on. Slaughtering starts in mid-August, peaks in September, and continues into November, so late-season visitors may get the freshest filets.

Most of Iceland's export income comes from fish. In fact, the country arguably serves up the freshest seafood in the world. The most common local species are cod, haddock, catfish, monkfish, halibut, trout, arctic char, and salmon.

Of course, fish and lamb are hardly the whole story. Icelandic beef is raised in equally healthy circumstances. Delicious wild reindeer from eastern Iceland appear on some menus. Icelanders also have centuries of experience cooking seabirds, especially puffins and guillemots.

Produce

Iceland's freshest produce comes from geothermally heated greenhouses. Locally grown vegetables are specially marked in supermarkets; top products are tomatoes, cucumbers, and bell peppers.

Dairy

Iceland's dairy products are just as wholesome and exceptional as the fish and lamb, but far less recognized. Icelanders consume lots of whole milk; reduced fat milk is available in markets but is slow to catch on. Iceland's greatest food invention, a yogurt-like product called skýr, is gaining popularity abroad. Iceland also produces great cheese, especially camembert and bleu cheese.

Saving Money

Of course, the best way to save money on food is to cook for yourself. Icelandic hoteliers are well aware of high food prices, and many accommodations offer access to guest kitchens

One way to save money is to focus on lunch as your main meal, since dinner prices are often much higher. On the other hand, many Icelanders get by on just soup, bread, and salad for lunch. Many convenience stores have relatively inexpensive salad bars.

Fast food is often necessary to stay solvent, or in the countryside when nothing else is available. Thankfully Iceland has the world's best hot dogs, available at almost every gas station. Burgers are everywhere, and are often served with a kind of cocktail sauce reminiscent of Russian dressing.

Escorted & Package Tours

Many travelers reflexively dismiss organized tours and packages, but Iceland is a good place for even the most independent-minded traveler to reconsider. Many of the most fascinating parts of the country are difficult to access on your own, and tour companies can save you tons of time in research and planning. Icelanders themselves often sign up with the same tour companies used by tourists.

Major Icelandic Operators

• Icelandair (tel. 570-3030) has all kinds of tours and packages, and its domestic counterpart Air Iceland (tel. 570-3030) offers day tours to Lake Mývatn, the Westfjords, and other locations. Icelandair offers the usual air/hotel packages and a good selection of outdoor adventure tours and special-interest tours, including a “Game of Thrones Iceland Tour.”
• Reykjavík Excursions (tel. 580-5400), Iceland’s largest tour company, has an enormous selection of tours to choose from; most but not all rely primarily on bus travel.
• Grayline (tel. 540-1313), Iceland’s second-largest tour company, is equally prolific and reputable.
• Iceland Travel (tel. 585-4300), one of Iceland’s biggest travel agencies, rounds out the big three.
• Nordic Adventure Travel (tel. 898-0355) is an excellent resource for outdoor adventure tours, often with online booking discounts.
• Guðmundur Jónasson Travel (tel. 511-1515), a long-established company, has an interesting range of cross-country adventures, and is especially good for tours that involve light hiking.
• Nonni Travel (tel. 461-1841) is the leading tour operator in Akureyri, Iceland’s “second city.” Offerings include rafting, whale-watching, and other adventures, as well as the usual bus tours.
• West Tours (tel. 456-5111), a recommended company with a creative range of tours, is the leading operator in the Westfjords.

North American Operators

• Adventures Abroad (tel. 800/227-8747) has a well-designed 12-day cultural tour of Iceland in August.
• Borton Overseas (tel. 800/843-0602), a Minneapolis-based specialist in Scandinavia, has a good range of Iceland offerings.
• Butterfield & Robinson (tel. 866/551-9090), a prestigious upscale company, has a very well-designed 5-day winter tour, and a trip for families with children 8 and up.
• Continental Journeys (tel. 800/601-4343) is a good clearinghouse for a wide variety of Iceland tours, both escorted and independent, summer and winter. The affiliated Great Canadian Travel Company in Winnipeg (tel. 800/661-3830; ) has a good range of tours, including cruises and a 10-day “Iceland on a Budget” self-drive tour starting at $1,300, not including airfare.
• Mountain Travel Sobek (tel. 888/831-7526) offers 10-day hiking excursions in the Eastern fjords.
• Nordic Saga Tours (tel. 800/848-6449), based in Edmonds, WA, has a carefully selected list of Iceland tours.
• Odysseys Unlimited (tel. 888/370-6765), a well-regarded company based in Newton, Massachusetts, has an excellent 11-day escorted tour crisscrossing the country for $4,997 and up, including airfare.
• Scanam World Tours (tel. 800/545-2204) is a prominent Scandinavian specialist based in Cranbury, New Jersey, with a good range of Iceland options.
• Scantours (tel. 800/223-7226), based in Los Angeles, has an enormous range of Iceland tours impressively laid out by type and departure date. The site is especially useful for scoping out off-season trips, spa trips, and cruise options.

Staying Connected

Internet Access

Most places to stay do not provide Internet terminals for guests, so your best and least expensive resource is often the public library, which usually charges around 200kr per hour. But Iceland is a good place to bring your laptop or tablet: Free Wi-Fi is widely available and the crime rate is low. In Reykjavík and Akureyri you won’t have trouble finding a cafe with free Wi-Fi, but in the rest of the country you’ll have to ask around. You can usually find a creative solution, from sitting in a hotel lobby (you’re unlikely to be thrown out) or loitering outside a library door when it’s closed. Reykjavík’s airport offers free unlimited Wi-Fi.

Telephone

Calls to Iceland from overseas require the country code prefix, which is 354. All phone numbers within Iceland are seven digits. Numbers beginning with 6, 7, and 8 are reserved for cellphones. No calls are “long distance” within Iceland, and you don’t need to dial the prefix.

Calling Iceland: Dial the international access code (011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia), then 354 and the seven-digit number.

International calls from Iceland: Dial 00, then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1), then the area code and number. Rates do not vary by time of day.

Directory assistance within Iceland: For numbers inside Iceland, dial 118; Icelandic phone books are found beside public phones and list residents by their first name and profession.

Toll-free numbers: Icelandic numbers beginning with 800 are toll-free, but calling a U.S. 1-800 number from Iceland counts as an overseas call.

Public phones: Coin- and card-operated public phones are increasingly hard to find, but post offices are a good bet. Using a public phone for local calls is usually cheaper than calling from a hotel. Charges for calls within Iceland vary according to time of day. Phone cards are easily found at post offices, gas stations, and markets. The smallest denomination is 500kr. More and more public phones also accept credit cards. International calling cards are widely available at fuel stations and convenience stores across Iceland. These cards usually provide better rates than calls made from hotels or directly from public phones.

Rechargeable online phone cards: Ekit offers rechargeable phone cards with good rates and a toll-free access number in Iceland (tel. 800-8700). Rates to the U.S. and Canada are currently 28¢ per minute, plus a 59¢ service charge per successful call. Rates to the U.K. are 48p per minute depending where you call, plus a 38p service fee per successful call.

Mobile Phones: Iceland has one of the world’s highest per capita number of cellphones, and coverage is reliable in most populated areas. The “Ring Road” circling Iceland is entirely covered.

The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card.

In the U.S., T-Mobile and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Rogers customers are GSM. Many phones, especially in the U.S., are not “multiband” (synonymous with “tri-band” or “quad-band”) and will not work in Iceland. For U.S./Canadian visitors, even if your phone uses GSM, and you have a multiband phone (such as many Sony Ericsson or Samsung models), the company you’re contracted to has probably “locked” your phone. In this case, you cannot simply buy an Icelandic SIM card, insert it into your phone, and start making calls.

Those with multiband phones can call their wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on their existing account. This option is usually expensive. If you plan on using a cellphone in Iceland, you may well want to buy a prepaid GSM plan after you arrive.

Prepaid GSM phone cards are available from 2,000kr with four main Icelandic phone companies, Vodafone (tel. 1414 or 1800; outside Iceland tel. 599-9000), and Nova (tel. 519-1919). All companies also offer GPRS and services for Internet access through your phone; almost all areas in Iceland with GSM also have GPRS. Branches of Vodafone (all locations: tel. 599-9000) in Reykjavík are at Kringlan Mall, Smáralind Mall, and Skútuvogur 2, which is a little closer to downtown but harder to get to by bus. Nova has branches in the major shopping malls.

When you sign up for a prepaid GSM plan in Iceland, the SIM card is typically free, and the lowest starting credit is 1,000kr. Typical rates within Iceland are 21kr per minute for the first minute, then 25% less after that, and 15kr for a text message, no matter what time of day or week. For the other companies, the price of a call drops as much as 50% within Iceland if you are calling another cellphone operated by the same company. There is also a “friends” option where you can choose a few numbers to call for free. Calls are all free between users of Nova SIM cards. GPRS costs are typically 20kr per 5 megabyte from Nova and slightly higher with other companies.

Tip: Be sure to ask for your voicemail and other prompts to be in English.

In Iceland, only the caller pays for the call, even for calls from overseas. This makes cellphones a great way for people from home to keep in touch with you. Currently the Nova rate for international calls from Iceland per minute to the U.S. is 32kr.

Your phone account can be continually restocked by buying prepaid cards called Frelsi (Freedom) at fuel stations and convenience stores around the country. To make sure you buy the right card, specify whether your cellphone uses Síminn or Vodafone, Nova, etc.

Satellite Phones: “Satphones” can be helpful in the more remote parts of Iceland. Two providers serve the country: Iridium satellite phones get the best coverage, whereas GlobalStar phones get only marginal coverage with a weaker signal. Iceland has no satellite phone agency, but products can be rented or purchased from two companies.

You can rent satphones from RoadPost (tel. 888/290-1606). Phone rental costs $8 per day.

Voice-Over Internet Protocol (VoIP): A broadband-based telephone service such as Skype allows you to make free international calls from your laptop or in an Internet cafe. The people you’re calling may also need to be signed up, or there will be a small fee. Check the site for details.

Tips for Senior Travelers

Iceland is often thought of as a travel destination for rugged outdoorsy types. Seniors who fit this description and those who don't will have no trouble finding plenty of adventure in the great outdoors. Age simply shouldn't factor into whether Iceland is the right destination, and senior tourists are anything but a rare sight throughout the country.

When deciding whether to rent a car, though, consider that driving in Iceland is hazardous and requires very good reflexes, coordination, and vigilance. Unless you are fully confident in your driving abilities, an organized tour is the safer bet.

Senior discounts are usually available at museums and other tourist attractions. Note that the retirement age for Icelanders is 67. Travelers age 65 or 66 are not normally entitled to discounts, though gatekeepers at various attractions may not be inclined to argue.

Many reliable agencies and organizations target the 50-plus market. Elderhostel (tel. 800/454-5768; www.elderhostel.org), a not-for-profit company, arranges worldwide study and adventure programs for those age 55 and over, with a few "intergenerational" trips. Elderhostel has eight first-rate tours to Iceland, from 9 to 35 days long. ElderTreks (tel. 800/741-7956 or 416/558-5000 outside North America; www.eldertreks.com) offers an 11-day small-group Iceland tour, restricted to travelers 50 and older, for around $5,000/£2,500.

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (tel. 888/687-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP and Travelocity have teamed up to create AARP Passport (www.travelocity.com/AARP/home), which can find discounted air/hotel packages in Iceland online for AARP members.

Money

Money & Costs: Iceland’s monetary unit is the krona (sometimes abbreviated as “ISK,” but written as “kr” here), plural kronur. Coins come in 1, 5, 10, 50, and 100 kronur denominations; bank notes are in denominations of 500kr, 1,000kr, 2,000kr, and 5,000kr. Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.xe.com/ucc to check up-to-the-minute rates. 

ATMs: ATMs are the most practical and reliable way to get cash at fair exchange rates. Upon arrival at Keflavík International Airport, you’ll easily find ATMs and the currency exchange desk, both run by Landsbanki Íslands, which has fair exchange rates. ATMs are found in most villages around Iceland, though not all are accessible 24 hours. Icelandic ATMs generally accept all major debit, credit, and cash-only cards. Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587) cards are almost universally accepted in Icelandic ATMs.

Traveler’s checks are still widely accepted in Iceland.

Tip: Avoid exchanging money at hotels, which tend to have high transaction fees.

Credit Cards: Credit cards are safe, convenient, and generally offer good exchange rates, though many banks assess a 1% to 3% “foreign transaction fee” on all charges you incur abroad. You’ll need a PIN to withdraw cash advances on your credit card. You will not need a PIN for most credit card purchases, but occasions may arise (particularly at automated fuel pumps).

Icelanders love credit and debit cards, and will commonly whip one out just to buy an ice cream. Most shops and tourist establishments accept credit cards; you can even charge a taxi ride. Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted, while American Express and Diner’s Club are not nearly as useful. Electron, Maestro, and EDC debit cards are sometimes accepted at retail stores.

Taxes: Visitors are entitled to a refund on the value-added tax (VAT, or sales tax) for purchases of eligible goods.

Getting Around

By Car

Icelanders love their cars for good reason: Iceland has no train transport, and many of Iceland's most beautiful sights are far from populated areas. A private vehicle can be even more necessary in the "shoulder season" (Apr-May and Sept-Oct), when most buses and tours are not operating. Renting a car is costly, but it often stacks up well against air and bus travel, especially if you have three or four passengers. Reykjavík is easy to get around in without a car, and parking there can be a nuisance, so many visitors rent a car upon leaving the city.

Route 1, usually referred to as "The Ring Road," is 1,328km (825 miles) long and circles the entire island. Almost all of it is paved, and it's plowed all winter. Only about a third of Iceland's total road network is paved, however.

Rentals

It's generally cheaper to rent a car before you arrive at the airport. If you rent in Reykjavík (as opposed to at the airport, which is over 48km/30 miles away), most agencies will deliver the car to your hotel (or deliver you to the car) and then pick up the car (or deliver you to your hotel) when you're done.

Most agencies offer a choice between limited and unlimited mileage plans. Expect to pay at least 5,000kr per day for a small car with unlimited mileage. For a 4WD vehicle, prices start around 18,000kr. If you pick up the vehicle in one location and drop it off in another, the drop-off fee is usually at least 6,000kr. Renting a car usually requires a credit card as a form of deposit.

Although the majors will have more pickup and dropoff locations, and often better resources for dealing with breakdowns and mishaps, local agencies are generally reliable and slightly cheaper, and you’re usually getting the same product. Consider taking the Flybus airport shuttle (tel. 580-5400) from the airport to Reykjavík, then renting from a local agency once you’re ready to leave the city. Agencies in the Keflavík area can also meet you at the airport. Recommended local agencies that can meet you at Keflavík International Airport include Geysir, Blikavöllur 5 (tel. 893-4455); and SS Car Rental, Iðjustígur 1, Njarðvík (tel. 421-2220). Recommended local agencies that will deliver a car to your hotel in Reykjavík include ÁTAK Car Rental, Smiðjuvegur 1, Kópavogur (tel. 554-6040), which carries automatics; Sixt, Keflavík (tel. 540-2221); and SAD Cars (tel. 577-6300), which, believe it or not, gives new life to used cars (max 5 years old).

The travel agency Touris (Frostaskjól 105, Reykjavík; tel. 551-7196) has good deals on packages combining 4WD rentals with lodging.

Age Limits & Licenses: Generally you must be 21 to rent a regular car in Iceland and 23 to rent a 4WD vehicle, but company policies vary. No maximum age limit is in effect. All national driver's licenses are recognized, so you do not need an international one.

Insurance: Basic third-party liability insurance is included in car-rental rates. Cars usually come with a standard collision damage waiver but a high deductible; in other words, if you get into a scrape you are liable for, say, the first 195,500kr in damages, beyond which the insurance pays. For an extra cost—say, 2,500kr per day—you could bring the deductible down to 25,500kr on a standard car. This is often a good idea as cars face hazardous conditions.

Driving on prohibited mountain roads will void your insurance on regular cars. The letter “F” precedes the numbers of mountain roads on maps and road signs. Even with 4WD vehicles, insurance is often voided if you attempt to cross rivers. Standard insurance does not cover damage to the car from a collision with an animal, and you may have to compensate the animal’s owner as well. Even for minor accidents, be sure to get a police report so your insurance will cover it. Note: Many agencies offer sand and ash insurance, which confuses nearly everyone. Freak sand storms with heavy winds, sometimes called ash storms, can blow dry earth onto vehicles and severely damage the paint job. They usually happen in the winter, occasionally in the spring or fall, and are limited primarily to the south of the country. If you’re not going to the south, don’t worry about it.

Automatic vs. Manual Transmission: Even the major Icelandic car-rental companies have very few cars with automatic transmissions. They must be reserved in advance, and usually cost about 10% more.

2WD vs. 4WD: Many of Iceland's most beautiful landscapes are accessible only to 4WD vehicles, so if you're in a regular car, be prepared for serious envy as you watch the 4WD vehicles turn off the Ring Road into the great unknown. All the major agencies rent 4WD vehicles and can provide you with tow ropes, shovels, extra fuel cans, and GPS navigational systems. On the other hand, the vast majority of roads are accessible to regular cars, and for the more difficult traverses, you can take buses or sign up for 4WD tours. This saves money on fuel, and the environment will thank you.

Campers: Icelanders often travel in campers, and the concept of a "portable hotel" holds great appeal in a country with so much open space and so many accessible campgrounds. As hotel prices continue to rise, it is becoming an increasingly popular option for traveling around the country. Some recommended agencies, all of which have a wide range of vehicles, include Happy Campers, KúKú Campers, and Go Campers.

Driving Laws: Icelanders drive on the right side of the road. Unless otherwise marked, speed limits are 30kmph (18.5 mph) in residential areas, 50kmph (31 mph) in towns, 80kmph (50 mph) on unpaved roads, and 90kmph (56 mph) on paved roads. No right turns are allowed at red lights. In rotaries (aka roundabouts), right of way goes to the driver in the inside lane. Headlights must always be on.

Seat belts are mandatory in both front and back seats, and children under 6 must be secured in a car seat designed for their size and weight; these are usually available for rent, but you may want to bring your own. No one less than 140cm (4ft. 7in.) tall, weighing less than 40kg (88lb.), or under the age of 12 is allowed to ride in a front seat equipped with an airbag. Talking on phones is prohibited unless you have a hands-free system. Many intersections in the capital have automatic cameras to catch traffic violators.

The blood alcohol limit is extremely strict at .05%, so getting behind the wheel after just one drink could make you guilty of a crime. Drivers stopped under suspicion for drunk driving are usually given a “balloon” or breathalyzer test, which cannot be refused.

To protect the fragile sub-Arctic vegetation, all off-road driving is strictly prohibited, except on some beaches.

Driving Safety: Iceland is not for Sunday drivers. Weather conditions are erratic; roads are winding and narrow, with no guardrails and many blind spots; and most routes are unpaved. We cannot emphasize enough how important it is not to speed; a majority of fatal car accidents in Iceland involve foreigners unfamiliar with the country's driving hazards.

Before you set out, ask your car rental agency about potentially difficult road and weather conditions, especially in the off season. For road conditions, Icelanders rely heavily on information continually updated by the Public Roads Administration at tel. 354-1777 (May-Oct 8am-4pm; Nov-Apr 8am-5pm) or www.vegag.is. For weather, contact the Icelandic Meteorological Office (tel. 902-0600, press "1" for English; www.vedur.is).

Most roads are steeply sided and do not have shoulders -- two seconds of inattention and you could topple off the road into great danger. Many road signs indicate dangers ahead, but few specify how much to reduce your speed, so always be on the safe side. Slow down whenever pavement transitions to gravel; tourists often skid off gravel roads, unaware of how poor traction can be on loose dirt and stones. Flying stones launched by oncoming traffic are another hazard on gravel roads, often cracking car windows; slow down and move to the side, especially if a larger vehicle is approaching. For traction, it's often safer to slow down by lowering the gears instead of using the brakes.

Most bridges in Iceland are single lane -- signposted Einbreið brú -- and the first car to reach it has right-of-way.

Always bring sunglasses into the car. Glare is a common hazard, and the sub-Arctic sun is usually low to the horizon.

Be on the lookout for sheep on the road, particularly when a lamb is on one side and its mother is on the other.

Mountain Roads and Fording Rivers: Do not attempt highland interior routes in a 2WD car. Roads that require 4WD vehicles are indicated by the letter “F” on road signs and maps. The safest procedure on these roads is to travel with other cars. Always carry repair kits and emergency supplies, and on particularly remote routes, inform someone of your travel plans before setting out. If you don’t have a GPS navigation system, at least bring a compass.

Unbridged river crossings for 4WD vehicles are marked on maps with the letter “V.” Water flow at these crossings can change dramatically and unpredictably from hour to hour. A sudden increase in flow can be caused not only by rain, but also by the sun melting glacial ice. Water levels are usually lower earlier in the day. Several drivers have drowned in river crossings; always seek advice if you have any doubts. Many drivers wait and watch other vehicles cross before making their own attempt. Sometimes it’s necessary to check the water depth by walking into the current; bring sturdy rubber sandals, a life jacket, and a lifeline for this purpose. Before crossing, make sure the 4WD is engaged. Drive in first gear and use “low” drive if you have it. It sometimes helps to cross diagonally in the direction of the current.

Off Season: In winter the weather is particularly volatile and daylight hours are limited. Most roads are open by April or May, but some interior routes are impassable as late as early July. Make sure your vehicle has snow tires or chains, and always pack blankets, food, and water in case you get stranded.

Filling Stations: Iceland has many long gaps between fuel stops, so keep your vehicle filled and know how far you can go before you have to refill the tank. Many pumps are automated and remain open 24 hours. Machines for swiping your credit or debit card usually expect you to know the card’s PIN. The machines also ask you to input the maximum amount you want to spend, but you are only charged for what is pumped. N1 and Olís, the companies with the most stations in Iceland, both sell prepaid cards. Some small-town stations indicated on maps are tiny operations, so you may want to call ahead to make sure they’re open.

Road Maps: The Iceland Road Atlas (Stöng Publishers), updated every 2 years, is a phenomenal compendium of maps and information and a must-have for any serious road trip. It’s nearly impossible to find online or abroad, but it is available at most Iceland car-rental agencies and many fuel stops and bookstores. Each map is focused narrowly on short stretches of individual roads, so you may prefer a simpler road atlas that gives you the big picture; these are easy to find.

Carpooling: Samferða (www.samferda.net) effectively connects people looking to carpool on specific routes at specific times. Anyone receiving a ride is expected to share the costs of gas or car rental. The bulletin board at Reykjavík City Hostel is also popular with visitors looking to split car costs.

By Bus

Iceland's bus system is reliable and punctual. Public buses link all major towns, and even some barren interior routes are covered in summer. (Icelandic buses are impressive machines, chugging right through rocky terrain and raging rivers.) Buses are up to European standards of comfort.

Several bus companies operate in Iceland, but all scheduled routes are coordinated by Iceland's main bus company, BSÍ (tel. 562-1011 daily 4:30am-midnight; www.bsi.is). Bus schedules are available online or at bus stations and tourist information offices across the country. The website www.nat.is is also great for bus timetables and bookings; click "Travel Guide," then "Transportation," then "Bus Schedules and Rental." Most long-distance bus routes run only in summer.

Buses on the Ring Road do not require reservations, and you can pay on board with cash or credit card. In small towns the bus stop is usually the main filling station. Coverage of the Ring Road is complete from June through August, but from September through May it extends only from Reykjavík to Akureyri in the north and to Höfn in the southeast.

Bus travel is not as inexpensive as you might think compared to car and air travel, especially for longer distances. Reykjavík to Akureyri by bus costs around 10,200kr, more than the cost of a flight. Bus passes can make travel more economical. An enjoyable way to see Iceland is on Reykjavík Excursions (tel. 580-5400) bus passes, available online or at the BSÍ terminal in Reykjavík. For example, the Iceland On Your Own bus pass includes coverage on all routes, including through the interior, for 30,200kr.

By Plane

Air travel in Iceland is common, easy, cost-efficient, and often necessary, especially in winter. Booking online and in advance is likely to save you money. Some routes are highly trafficked (like Reykjavík to Akureyri, 10 flights per day in summer) and some far less so (Reykjavík to Gjögur, twice per week).

Air Iceland (tel. 570-3030) handles most domestic air travel, serving seven destinations inside Iceland (Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Ísafjörður, Grímsey, Þórshöfn, and Vopnafjörður) as well as the Faroe Islands and Greenland. Children under 12 get 50% off on Air Iceland.

Eagle Air (tel. 562-4200) connects Reykjavík to Westman Islands, Sauðárkrókur, Hornafjörður (Höfn), Bíldudalur, and Gjögur, and also offers sightseeing tours.

One-way prices from Reykjavík began at 16,200kr to the Westman Islands (25 min.), 11,500kr to Akureyri (45 min.), and 16,600kr to Egilsstaðir (1 hr.).

Note: Because of Iceland’s high winds and unpredictable weather, you should always be prepared for delays and cancellations, especially in winter.

By Boat

Iceland’s ferry system is often used by tourists. The only ferries that take cars are the Baldur, which connects Stykkishólmur on the Snæfellsnes peninsula to Brjánslækur in the Westfjords, and the Herjólfur, which connects Landeyjahöfn to the Westman Islands.

Health & Safety

Outdoor Safety

Icelanders visiting the U.S. are amused by all the warning signs and guardrails. If Iceland tried to match these precautions, it would be quickly bankrupted. Always use care in Iceland's untamed outdoors. Thoroughly research the potential hazards of any journey, and talk to someone with local knowledge before setting out. Bring a first-aid kit to any remote destination.

Be prepared for Iceland's notoriously abrupt shifts in weather. For forecasts, check with the Icelandic Meteorological Office (tel. 902-0600; www.vedur.is). Keep in mind that the temperature usually drops about 1° for every 100m (328 ft.) of elevation. Even near the coastline in summer, night temperatures can drop below freezing. Always carry warm and waterproof clothing and footwear, even in summer.

Bring a map and compass for longer walks, or ideally, a GPS unit. A cell phone is also useful for emergencies, though coverage is unlikely in remote areas.

Rocks & Footing -- Rocks and rock faces in Iceland are often loose and crumbly. Hiking shoes with good ankle support are advised. Be careful not to loosen rocks that could tumble onto someone below you, and be aware of potential rockfalls or avalanches. Take special care to have solid footing on mountaintops and clifftops, where winds are strongest.

Geothermal Areas & Volcanoes -- In geothermal hotspots, most tourists know better than to stick their fingers in boiling mud pots, but other dangers are not so obvious. Sometimes unwary visitors step right through a thin crust of earth into boiling mud below. Lighter colored soil is usually the most dangerous. Stick to paths and boardwalks when provided, and always seek advice before approaching active volcanoes.

Glaciers -- Even road-trippers who seldom stray from their cars are likely to encounter a glacier face-to-face. Do not set off on a glacier without some experience or advice from a local expert. Organized trips with professional guides are the safest route. Glaciers can collapse without warning, and even a smooth surface can disguise hidden, deadly crevasses. If you walk onto a glacier despite the danger, follow other footprints or snowmobile tracks. Generally, the best time for glacier traverses is from mid-February to mid-July, with optimal conditions between March and May.

Do not venture into ice caves; even experienced guides seldom lead groups there. Also beware of quicksand that can form from meltoff at the glacier's edge.

Emergency Shelters -- The Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (tel. 570-5900) maintains several bright orange emergency shelters in remote interior and coastline locations, and along some roads, often in high mountain passes. The shelters are identified on most maps and are stocked with food, fuel, and blankets. These are to be used in emergencies only. If you are forced to use something, make sure to sign for it so it can be replaced.

Search & Rescue -- Locals constantly encourage visitors to inform someone before venturing into risky areas alone. For most trips you can simply leave your name and itinerary with a local tourist information office or park warden. For more risky ventures, you should register at the Reykjavík office of the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue, Skógarhlíð 14, Reykjavík (tel. 570-5900); local and online registration is in the works.

Doctors & Hospitals: Iceland has very high-quality medical care and more doctors per capita than any other country on earth. Virtually all doctors speak English reasonably well. Reykjavík and larger towns have hospitals. Most smaller towns have at least one doctor and one pharmacy (apótek); if you need a doctor, ask at any local pharmacy or business. Most pharmacies are open 9am to 6pm, and over-the-counter medicines are accessible, if expensive. Iceland’s barren interior is another story entirely, however: You could be hours from even the most rudimentary form of care.

Emergencies: For emergencies in Iceland, dial 112. If you get sick, you can usually just call or show up at the nearest hospital or health center.

Health: Icelanders are blessed with a very healthy environment. The use of geothermal and hydroelectric power has made pollution almost negligible. Some say Iceland has the purest tap water in the world, and even surface water is generally potable. The incidence of insect-, water-, or food-borne infection is extremely low.

Sun/Elements: The sun can be strong even at this northern latitude. Bring sunblock and lip balm and use sunglasses to protect from the glare. Iceland’s extreme variations in daylight hours may also wreak havoc with your body clock, so bring an eye mask to help you sleep in summer. In the short days of winter, Icelanders combat depression by downing a shot of vitamin D–rich cod liver oil each morning.

Insects: Iceland has a few bees and wasps, so bring a remedy if you have an allergy.

Motion Sickness: Bring motion sickness pills if you plan on boating, long ferry rides, or bumpy road trips.

Insurance: Even insured U.S. citizens may have to pay all medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later. Before leaving home, find out what your health insurance covers. To protect yourself, consider buying medical travel insurance.

Tips for Single Travelers

With so many excellent group adventure tours to choose from, Iceland is a great place to fly solo. Even those normally allergic to organized tours find the Icelandic experience far more personal and less tame than the usual.

Single travelers can avoid paying a "single supplement" by rooming with other solo travelers or finding a roommate before they go. Travel Buddies can match you with a roommate.

Rental cars give you unmatched freedom and flexibility as a traveler in Iceland, and solo travelers may want to find car mates to share the costs. Samferða is a useful Icelandic carpooling website.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Iceland has more options and resources for travelers with disabilities than ever before, but you must call well in advance to secure your plans. Reykjavík and Akureyri are fairly accommodating, and new public buildings have to meet a strict code for wheelchair access. But, in the countryside, accessible facilities are few and far between, and tours often involve traversing long distances over rough ground or unpaved paths. (One bright spot is Iceland's top tourist attraction, The Blue Lagoon, which has good wheelchair access.)

Always make specific inquiries at hotels before booking. The website www.whenwetravel.com lists wheelchair-accessible hotels around the world; although listings for Iceland are not great at present, the situation will hopefully improve in the future.

Most museums and other tourist attractions offer reduced admission prices for travelers with disabilities.

All airlines flying to and from Iceland can accommodate visitors with disabilities, and Air Iceland, the main domestic airline, generally has no trouble with wheelchairs. Buses in Reykjavík are all wheelchair-accessible, and the largest tour operators each have a few wheelchair-accessible buses. Most car ferries are wheelchair-accessible.

Tour operator Nordic Visitor (Laugavegur 26, Reykjavík; tel. 511-2442) has experience in putting together tours for visitors with disabilities.

Sjálfsbjörg, Hátun 12, Reykjavík (tel. 550-0300; Mon–Fri 8am–4pm), Iceland’s association for people with disabilities, can answer questions or offer advice on your itinerary.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

Each time you take a flight or drive a car, carbon dioxide is released into the atmosphere. You can help neutralize the damage by purchasing “carbon offsets,” from organizations such as Carbonfund.org in the U.S. Iceland has its own reputable Iceland Carbon Fund (Kolviður); the website helps you calculate your damages and choose a tree-planting project or other remedy. Once in Iceland you can base your activities on hiking, biking, horseback riding, or other activities that do not consume fossil fuels.

Several Icelandic companies have earned certification from Blue Flag, a Danish association that certifies beaches, marinas, whale-watching tours, and other businesses for sustainable oceanside development. Nordic Eco Label (tel. 08/5555-2400) certifies places to stay for adhering to strict environmental practices.

EarthCheck is another important eco-certification label (formerly known as Green Globe). Several Icelandic tourist businesses have received the Green Globe—as has every community on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Environmental issues often come up in conversation with Icelanders, so you may want to read up on the hot topics. Iceland has resumed whaling, and the subject often provokes emotional responses. For information about the ethics of whaling, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society. The website www.savingiceland.org has a pronounced radical slant but contains links to informative articles on environmental issues facing Iceland.

General Resources for Green Travel

In addition to the resources for Iceland listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel.

• Responsible Travel is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry. Sustainable Travel International promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world.
• In Canada, www.greenlivingonline.com offers extensive content on how to travel sustainably.
• Carbonfund and TerraPass provide info on “carbon offsetting,” outlining ways to offset the greenhouse gas emitted during flights.
• Greenhotels recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company’s stringent environmental requirements.
• For information on animal-friendly issues throughout the world, visit Tread Lightly. For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society.
• Volunteer International has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Passports & Visas: All visitors to Iceland must carry a passport, valid at least 3 months beyond the return date. If your trip to Iceland is under 90 days, no visa is required for U.S. or Canadian passport holders. 

Customs

Arriving in Iceland: All riding and angling gear must be disinfected, including gloves, boots, and waders. You’ll need proof of disinfection from an authorized vet, or the gear will be disinfected upon arrival at your expense. For more information, contact the Agricultural Authority (tel. 530-4800).

Visitors at least 20 years of age may bring 1 liter (33.8 oz.) of wine or 6 liters (6.5 qt.) of beer, plus 1 liter of spirits (33.8 oz.). If you’re not carrying spirits or beer, you can bring in 2.5 liters (2.5 qt.) of wine.

There are no limits on foreign currency.

You may bring up to 3kg of food into Iceland, but no raw eggs, raw meat, or milk.

All animals require a permit from the Agricultural Authority (above). Permits are hard to get, and the animal must undergo 4 weeks of quarantine, so traveling with pets is usually not an option.

Visitors 18 or older may bring up to 200 cigarettes or 250g (0.5 lb.) of tobacco, but no “moist snuff.”

For complete listings of permitted items, visit the Directorate of Customs website.

Leaving Iceland: Icelandic law forbids the export of birds, bird eggs, bird nests, eggshells, many rare minerals, all stalactites and stalagmites in caves, and 31 protected plant species. Objects of historical or archaeological interest may not be taken out of the country without special permission. U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back, download Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (general inquiries: 1-877/CBP-5511; from outside the U.S.: 703/526-4200). Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, pick up the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500).

Getting There

Virtually all international arrivals come through Keflavík International Airport (KEF) (tel. 425-6000), about 50km (31 miles) southwest of Reykjavík. KEF is sometimes called “Leifur Eiríksson Air Terminal” or “Reykjavík Airport,” even though Reykjavík has a small, domestic airport in the city proper, Reykjavík City Airport. Extensive renovations to Keflavík International were completed in 2007, and the airport sees nearly 9 million passengers each year. Arriving passengers must go through another security check before clearing Customs. The airport has a tourist information desk with brochures galore, but the staff cannot make hotel or tour reservations.

Until recently only Icelandair and WOW Air flew to Iceland, but many additional airlines have opened up routes. Peak season is June to August, plus the 2 weeks before Christmas and the 2 weeks after the New Year.

Icelandair (tel. 800/223-5500 U.S. and Canada) flies to Keflavík from 21 North American cities. Flights from North America are usually overnight, though from May to October daytime flights are available from New York and Boston a few times per week. Icelandair offers a good range of discount packages combining airfare, hotels, and sometimes tours. Midweek flights are often significantly cheaper. Fares between the U.S. and Europe can include a free stopover for up to 7 days in Iceland. All fares, except for some special offers, are discounted for children under 12.

Duty-Free Alcohol

Alcohol prices in the airport may seem high, but they’re far lower than elsewhere in Iceland, so consider buying duty-free before you leave the airport. Icelandair prohibits alcohol from being transported in carry-on luggage, so if you’re taking this airline and want to buy duty-free, wait until you arrive in Keflavík. Customs limits you to 1 liter of wine or 6 liters of beer, plus 1 liter of spirits. If you’re not carrying spirits or beer, then you can bring in 2.5 liters (5.3 pints) of wine.

Tips for Student Travelers

Iceland is tough for students on a tight budget. Youth hostels and "sleeping-bag accommodation" at guesthouses and farms can be lifesavers. 

For visitors ages 12 to 26, the “Youth Restricted Fare” on Air Iceland offers big savings if you’re willing to fly standby and take your chances on availability. Multi-trip bus passports from Sterna also have student discounts. The International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC) website offers the International Student Identity Card (ISIC) and lists companies, attractions, and places to stay in Iceland that offer student discounts. The card, which also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour helpline, is valid for up to 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel (tel. 800/781-4040 in North America). If you’re no longer a student but still under 26, STA’s International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS (tel. 800/592-2887) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents.

Tips for Families

Iceland is a wondrous and magical place no child will ever forget. Most tour companies welcome children (with the exception of the most rigorous trips, of course) and charge 50% less for children under 12. Discounts are usually available for transportation and tourist attractions, and sometimes for accommodations as well. Air Iceland, the main domestic airline, offers 50% off for children ages 2 to 11 when tickets are booked over the phone; even greater discounts may be available online.

Many hotels, guesthouses, and farms offer “family rooms” sleeping three to five people, sometimes with cooking facilities. Even youth hostels commonly have family rooms. Often a place has only one or two such rooms; the only way to be sure is to ask. The Icelandic Farm Holidays network of farm accommodations (tel. 570-2700) is usually cheaper than hotels and offers children a glimpse of Icelandic country life.

Iceland is a safe and personal enough country that parents may feel comfortable leaving their children with local babysitters. You can always ask the staff at your accommodation to recommend someone.

The comprehensive My Family Travels offers trip planning and has plentiful information on Iceland.

Remember: Iceland cannot possibly install guard ropes and warning signs at every location that poses danger to children, so mind them at all times.