Planning a trip to Jamaica

Money

Jamaica has its own dollar, far less valuable than the U.S. dollar. In all exchanges, determine which dollar unit is being quoted in the price. Otherwise, it's possible you could get cheated -- badly -- in a financial transaction.

Rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

All the major resorts and first-class restaurants quote prices in U.S. dollars, so many visitors can go through their entire trip without the bother of converting their currency into Jamaican dollars. But it's still prudent to carry some Jamaican dollars: For some transactions, such as a drink of coconut water from a roadside vendor, prices are only quoted in Jamaican dollars.

If you have Jamaican dollars left over at the end of your trip, you'll need to show exchange receipts from a bank or other official bureau for the local dollars you purchased. This is a rather cumbersome process. Exchange only the amount of Jamaican money you think you'll actually need.

You can live in Jamaica on US$50 a day or US$1,000 a day. It's up to you. In general, costs are lower than in urban cities in the United States and a lot lower than London and continental cities such as Paris or Rome. Guests usually book into hotels, especially all-inclusives, on package deals, which considerably cut costs. Restaurants charging more than US$30 for a meal are considered expensive by Jamaican standards. Many native restaurants, catering to a local clientele, charge less than US$15 for a complete dinner.

Note: Prices in this guide quoted in Jamaican dollars are for general guidance. The Jamaican dollar sometimes fluctuates wildly. In general, it has been in a long decline against the Yankee dollar since the early 1990s.

All Jamaican cities and most large towns on the island have banks with a foreign exchange bureau. If you're heading into the remote countryside, make sure you have solved your cash problem before setting out. Banks give far better exchange rates than your hotel will.

Because of inadequate ATMs, traveler's checks are still a popular means of currency to take to Jamaica. They are widely accepted, but you should always inquire about the fee before cashing them. Sometimes there's a high surcharge, which can vary from place to place.

Relying on ATMs is a bit risky in Jamaica. Most banks in cities such as Kingston and Montego Bay have 24-hour ATMs in secure booths. You are, however, given Jamaican dollars -- not U.S. dollars -- at these machines. Always try to use ATMs during regular business hours. There are frequent muggings of visitors who use ATMs at night in Jamaica.

Be aware that many Frommer's readers have written to describe their frustration with the island's ATMs. It's best to ask your local bank how effective your ATM card will be in Jamaica before you depart. Failing all else, we've found that branches of Scotiabank work best with North American ATM cards.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country -- even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

Currency

The unit of currency in Jamaica is the Jamaican dollar, with the same symbol as the U.S. dollar, "$." There is no fixed rate of exchange for the Jamaican dollar; it is traded publicly and is subject to market fluctuations.

Visitors to Jamaica can pay for any goods in U.S. dollars, but be careful. Always insist on knowing whether a price is quoted in Jamaican or U.S. dollars.

In this guide we quote some prices in both Jamaican and U.S. dollars, though for the most part U.S. dollars are listed alone because the Jamaican dollar tends to fluctuate. U.S. dollar values give a better indication of costs. Prices given in Jamaican dollars are indicated by "J$"; all other prices are in U.S. dollars.

There are Bank of Jamaica exchange bureaus at both international airports (Montego Bay and Kingston), at cruise ship piers, and in most hotels. Also, there is no limit to the amount of foreign currency you can bring into or out of Jamaica.

Finally, whenever you leave your hotel, take along some small bills and coins. They will come in handy, as tips are generally expected for even the smallest service.

What Things Cost in Jamaica (Montego Bay) US$

Average taxi ride 2.00

Double room at Half Moon Resort (very expensive) 400.00

Double room at Richmond Hill (moderate) 115.00

Double room at Gloriana (inexpensive) 65.00

Lunch for one (without wine) at Day-O Plantation Restaurant

(moderate) 30.00

Lunch for one (without wine) at the Native Restaurant

(inexpensive) 18.00

Dinner for one (without wine) at Horizons (expensive) 60.00

Dinner for one (without wine) at the Houseboat Grill

(moderate) 25.00

Dinner for one (without wine) at Glistening Waters

(inexpensive) 18.00

Bottle of Red Stripe beer 2.00

A rum punch at a bar 5.00

Admission to Doctor's Cave Beach 5.00

18 holes of golf at Half Moon 130.00

Admission to AquaSol Theme Park 5.00

Special-Interest Vacations

Biking

Blue Mountain Bicycle Tours Ltd., 121 Main St., Ocho Rios (tel. 876/974-7075; www.bmtoursja.com) offers all-inclusive, all-day biking holidays in Jamaica's Blue Mountains, the Caribbean's highest mountain range. The highlight of the tour is the famous Downhill Bicycle Tour, with panoramic vistas in all directions. The tour features a Jamaican brunch and lunch at a local cafe. You're taken around by experienced guides and provided safety equipment as well. Time is allotted for a refreshing waterfall swim.

Note that bike repair shops are almost nonexistent. Take along a repair kit if you plan to do some solo cycling.

Community Tourism

Countrystyle Community Tourism takes visitors away from the beaches and into the interior where they visit remote villages in the central and southern tier of the island. Tours often begin with a breakfast of ackee and saltfish and are followed by an insider's look at Rasta culture. Along the way you can sample local fare such as exotic fruits, pepper shrimp, or peanut soup.

A variety of packages is offered, including a choice of accommodations by the sea or in the mountains. Lodging is in private homes, small hotels, cottages, apartments, or even on a Jamaican farm. A 3-day all inclusive package begins at US$1,200 per couple, including airport transfers and other transportation.

For more information, contact Countrystyle Community Tourism Network in Mandeville (tel. 876/962-7758; www.countrystylecommunitytourism.com).

Golf

Jamaica has the best golf courses in the West Indies, with Montego Bay sporting the best championship links.

The Cinnamon Hill Ocean Course at Rose Hall Resort & Country Club (tel. 866/831-1313 or 876/953-2650; www.rosehallresort.com) is ranked among the top-five golf courses in the world by some; it's an unusual and challenging seaside and mountain course.

Golf at Half Moon (tel. 876/953-2211; www.halfmoongolf.com) at the Half Moon Resort features a championship course designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. SuperClubs' Ironshore Golf & Country Club (tel. 876/953-2800) is another good course in Montego Bay.

On the North Shore are SuperClubs' Runaway Golf Club (tel. 876/973-7319; www.superclubs.com) at Runaway Bay and Sandals Golf & Country Club (tel. 876/975-0119; www.sandals.com) at Ocho Rios.

In Mandeville, the Manchester Country Club, Brumalia Road (tel. 876/962-2403), is Jamaica's oldest golf course, recently expanded from 9 to 18 holes. Beautiful vistas unfold 660m (2,200 ft.) above sea level.

Hiking

Because of possible dangers involved, it's often best to go on an organized tour, the best of which are offered by Sun Venture Tours (tel. 876/960-6685; www.sunventuretours.com).

Besides the high Blue Mountains, where Sun Venture goes, another great place for hiking is from Port Antonio. You can hike various trails through the Rio Grande Valley; highlights include the 7-hour White River Falls jaunt along the banks of the White River and an easier walk to the Scatter Waterfalls, floating on a bamboo raft across the Rio Grande. The 11km (7-mile) Guava River Trail goes along the Guava River into the heart of the Blue Mountains.

The Maroon Country, near Montego Bay, is also a place of challenging hikes -- though it's best to hire a guide here.

Horseback Riding

The best riding is on the North Shore. Jamaica's most complete equestrian center is Chukka Caribbean Adventures (tel. 876/972-2506; www.chukkacaribbean.com), at Richmond Landovery, less than 6km (4 miles) east of Runaway Bay.

Another good program is offered at Rocky Point Riding Stables (tel. 876/953-2286), Half Moon Club, Rose Hall, Montego Bay, housed in the most beautiful barn and stables in Jamaica.

Scuba Diving

Diving is sometimes offered as part of all-inclusive packages by the island's major hotels. There are also well-maintained facilities independent of the hotels.

Near Montego Bay, Seaworld Resorts (tel. 876/953-2180; www.diveseaworld.com), at the Cariblue Hotel on Rose Hall Main Road, offers scuba-diving excursions to offshore coral reefs that are among the most spectacular in the Caribbean. There are also PADI-certified dive guides, one dive boat, and all necessary equipment for either inexperienced or certified divers.

Negril is a hotbed of diving. Negril Scuba Centre (tel. 800/818-2963 or 876/957-9641), in the Mariner's Negril Beach Club, Norman Manley Boulevard, is the area's most modern, best-equipped scuba facility.

Websites for Divers -- For useful information on scuba diving in the Caribbean, check out the website of the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) at www.padi.com. This site provides descriptions of dive destinations throughout the Caribbean and a directory of PADI-certified dive operators. Scuba Diving Magazine also has a helpful website at www.scubadiving.com. Both sites list dive package specials and display gorgeous color photos of some of the most beautiful dive spots in the world.

Snorkeling

The offshore reefs bordering the coast at Negril are excellent for snorkeling, many shallow enough to lure the beginner. The shoreline east of Ocho Rios to Galina Point is fringed by a coral reef of rainbow-hued marine life. Most resorts provide snorkeling equipment, but the activity isn't very well organized.

Tennis

All-Jamaica Hardcourt Championships are played in August at the Manchester Country Club, Brumalia Road, P.O. Box 17, Mandeville (tel. 876/962-2403). The courts are open for general play during the rest of the year.

Sandals Grande Ocho Rios Beach & Villa Resort, Main Street, Ocho Rios (tel. 876/974-5691; www.sandals.com), focuses more on tennis than does any other resort in the area. It offers three clay-surface and three hard-surface courts, all lit for nighttime play. Nonresidents must call and make advance arrangements with the manager.

In Montego Bay you'll find excellent tennis facilities at Rose Hall Resort & Country Club, at Rose Hall (tel. 876/953-2650; www.rosehallresort.com); at the Half Moon Resort (tel. 876/953-2211; www.halfmoon.com); and at Tryall Club Jamaica, St. James (tel. 800/238-5290 or 876/956-5660; www.tryallclub.com).

Package Deals

Unlike many places, Jamaica is not a big market for escorted tours where you're hauled around on a bus and looked after constantly by a guide. You can, of course, take locally guided tours once you land.

Air Jamaica Vacations (tel. 800/LOVEBIRDS; www.airjamaicavacations.com) is affiliated with the national airline, and these folks know the country well.

The biggest hotel chains and resorts in Jamaica (such as Sandals) also offer package deals. If you know where you want to stay, call that resort about air-and-land packages.

For British Travelers -- ITC Classics, Concorde House, Forest Street, Chester CH1 1QR (tel. 01244/355-300; www.itcclassics.co.uk), offers all-inclusive packages (airfare and hotel) to Jamaica and customizes tours for independent travel. It publishes two catalogs.

Other Jamaican specialists operating out of the U.K. include big Kuoni Travel, Kuoni House, Dorking, Surrey RH5 4AZ (tel. 01306/747-002; www.kuoni.co.uk), and Caribtours, Kiln House, 210 New Kings Rd., London SW6 4NZ (tel. 020/7751-0660; www.caribtours.co.uk) -- a small, very knowledgeable specialist.

Getting Married

During high season, some Jamaican resorts witness several weddings a day. Many of the larger resorts can arrange for an officiant, a photographer, and even the wedding cake and champagne. Some resorts will even throw in the wedding with the cost of your honeymoon at the hotel. Both the Jamaican Tourist Board and your hotel can assist with paperwork; participants must simply be in Jamaica for 24 hours before the ceremony. Bring birth certificates and affidavits saying you've never been married before. (If you've been divorced or widowed, bring copies of your divorce papers or a copy of the deceased spouse's death certificate.) The license and stamp duty costs J$5,000, and the ceremony can start at US$150 and go up from there, depending on how much legwork you do. Apply in person at the Ministry of National Security and Justice, 12 Ocean Blvd., Kingston, Jamaica (tel. 876/906-4908).

The single best hotel for arranging wedding packages is Half Moon (tel. 866/648-6951; www.halfmoonweddings.com) in Montego Bay. Sandals properties in Montego Bay, Negril, and Ocho Rios (tel. 888/726-3257) also have good packages.

Tips on Accommodations

Because of the island's size and diversity, Jamaica offers the widest array of accommodations in the Caribbean. All-inclusive resorts are a well-liked choice. Other options include renting a self-catering villa or apartment, where you can save money by making your own meals in your own kitchen. Also noteworthy are Jamaica's simple but decent guesthouses, where low costs combine with maximum exposure to local life. Unfortunately, these sometimes lie far from beaches and offer few diversions or activities.

What the Meal Plans Mean

• AP (American Plan): This plan includes three meals a day (sometimes called "full board" or "full pension").
• CP (Continental Plan): A continental breakfast (that is, bread, jam, and coffee) is included in the room rate.
• EP (European Plan): This rate is always cheapest, as it offers only the room -- no meals.
• MAP (Modified American Plan): Sometimes called "half-board" or "half-pension," this rate includes breakfast plus dinner or lunch.

All-Inclusive Resorts

One increasingly popular option is the all-inclusive resort. Well-publicized, solidly financed, and boasting a wealth of facilities, these tend to be large resorts where all your drinking, dining, and sporting diversions are offered within the hotel compound as part of one all-inclusive price. Although they tend to limit your exposure to local life, they are convenient.

When booking a vacation at an all-inclusive resort for a 7-night stay, most properties quote a weekly rate for two persons, which we list as double. However, look at the fine print. In some cases, as indicated in our listings, it might read "per person" based on double occupancy. Agree in advance on what the terms are before booking a room. You don't want any unpleasant surprises when it comes time to settle the tab at the end of a week.

Of course, this problem doesn't arise in most cases, because the price of the vacation is paid up front before arriving in Jamaica. In those cases, you have to open your wallet only at the end of the stay to settle any extras you've encountered.

The All-Inclusive: Safe Haven or Not for You? -- Of all the resorts of Jamaica, the all-inclusive has virtually taken over Ocho Rios, although Montego Bay and Negril have their fair share. The concept was pioneered by Jamaica's Butch Stewart with his Sandals properties (tel. 888/726-3257 in the U.S. and Canada; www.sandals.com) and has since swept the Caribbean, including such islands as St. Lucia.

All-inclusives are not for the independent traveler. At the all-inclusive, you get all your meals and most activities paid for as part of a package. Some dine-around plans help you break the monotony of eating at the same resort every night. With their 24-hour security force, these all-inclusives give you more protection than the smaller, independent inns without such expensive patrolling.

If you're an adventure traveler, you may not want such womblike security. You may prefer to stay at a small inn or little hotel where you're free to roam throughout the day, returning to your bed after a night of rum and reggae on the town.

Like a mother hen, the all-inclusive will pamper you during your entire stay, even pick you up at the airport and haul you back there for your return flight. At the little independent inn or small hotel, you're more or less on your own. The choice is yours.

If you don't want to stick to the all-inclusives, one of the best travel agencies specializing in hotel deals is Changes in L'Attitudes (tel. 800/330-8272; www.changes.com).

Small Hotels

Another option is the small hotel. Jamaica offers many of these, a few of which are the finest in the Caribbean. There, on any given day, you'll be given an option of dining either within the hotel or at any of the independent restaurants that flourish nearby.

Guesthouses

An entirely different type of accommodation is the guesthouse, where most Jamaicans themselves stay when they travel. Prices average anywhere from US$60 to US$125 for a double per night, although this can vary widely.

The term "guesthouse" can mean anything, however. Some resemble simple motels built around swimming pools; others are made up of small individual cottages with kitchenettes, constructed around a main building containing a bar and restaurant serving local food. Some are surprisingly comfortable, often with private baths and a swimming pool. (You may or may not have air-conditioning; rooms are often cooled by ceiling fans or breezes through open windows -- a security concern.)

Guesthouses can't be topped for value, however. Though bereft of frills, the guesthouses we've recommended are clean and safe for families or single travelers.

Condos, Cottages & Villas

If you're going as a family or group of friends, a housekeeping holiday can be one of the least-expensive ways to vacation in Jamaica. Self-catering accommodations are now available in many locations.

The more upscale villas have a staff, or at least a maid who comes in a few days a week, and they also provide the essentials for home life, including bed linens and cooking paraphernalia. Condos usually come with a reception desk and are often comparable to life in a suite in a big resort hotel. Nearly all condo complexes provide swimming pools (some have more than one pool).

Some private apartments in Jamaica are rented, either with or without maid service. This is more of a no-frills option than are the villas and condos. The apartments may not be in buildings with swimming pools, and they may not maintain a front desk to help you. Jamaican cottages often contain no more than a simple bedroom, small kitchen, and bath. During the winter, you'll need to reserve at least 5 or 6 months in advance.

Villas of Distinction, P.O. Box 55, Armonk, NY 10504 (tel. 800/289-0900; www.villasofdistinction.com), offers private villas with one to six bedrooms and a pool. Domestic help is often included. Descriptions, rates, and photos of the villas are available online.

At Home Abroad, 163 Third Ave., Box 319, New York, NY 10003 (tel. 212/421-9165; fax 212/228-4860; www.athomeabroadinc.com), has a roster of private upscale homes for rent in Jamaica, most with maid service.

Hideaways Aficionado, 767 Islington St., Portsmouth, NH 03801 (tel. 800/843-4433 in the U.S., or 603/430-4433; www.hideaways.com), publishes Hideaways Guide, a pictorial directory of home rentals worldwide, including Jamaica. It includes full descriptions so you know what you're renting. For most rentals, you'll deal directly with the owners. Other services include yacht charters, cruises, airline ticketing, car rentals, and hotel reservations. Annual membership is US$185; membership information, listings, and photos are available online.

One of the best sources for villa rentals on this lush island is through Linda Smith of Jamaica Villas (tel. 301/229-4300; www.jamaicavillas.com). With her quarter of a century experience on the island, she inspects and evaluates every property, and even sleeps in them to see if anything is wrong. In winter, villa rentals begin at $3,750 weekly, lowered to $1,900 off-season. Of course, some extremely luxurious properties can rent for $70,000 a week for those who've hit it big.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

Jamaica is the most homophobic island in the Caribbean, with harsh anti-gay laws, even though there's a large local gay population.

Many all-inclusive resorts, notably the famous Sandals of Jamaica, allow same-sex couples, although they were forced to do so to be able to advertise in Britain. As part of the EU, Britain cannot condone discrimination in advertising. Hedonism II in Negril also allows gay travelers. So does the Grand Hotel Lido in Negril. Still, avoid open displays of affection -- such as handholding on the streets -- in Jamaica: You could be assaulted for trying it.

If you're desiring a gay trip to get some sun, forget Jamaica unless you want to stay deep in the closet. Puerto Rico, notably Old San Juan, is a friendlier destination, certainly South Beach (part of Miami Beach) or Key West, but definitely not Jamaica where intolerance of gays is most pronounced. Local gay activists have been killed or had their homes set on fire.

Getting Around

By Car

Jamaica is big enough -- and public transportation is unreliable enough -- that a car is a necessity if you plan to do much independent sightseeing. Unfortunately, prices of car rentals in Jamaica have skyrocketed; it's now one of the most expensive rental scenes in the Caribbean. And fraud is a very real concern; stick with our choices below.

Most rental cars in Jamaica are picked up at the airport, not delivered to your hotel. Some hotels have car-rental desks, but in all cases we've found those desks' prices higher than if arrangements were made in advance. Most car-rental firms in Jamaica grant unlimited mileage; if the firm you're calling doesn't, switch to one that does.

You can usually book a rental car as part of a package tour, but if you're going on your own, here are some tips:

Where to Rent -- Try Budget (tel. 800/472-3325 in the U.S., 876/952-3838 at the Montego Bay Airport, or 876/924-8762 in Kingston; www.budget.com); with Budget, a daily collision-damage waiver is mandatory and costs US$10 to US$20. Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 in the U.S. and Canada; www.hertz.com) operates branches at the airports in Montego Bay (tel. 876/979-0438) and Kingston (tel. 876/924-8028).

If you'd like to shop for a better deal with one of the local companies in Montego Bay, try Jamaica Car Rental, 23 Gloucester Ave. (tel. 876/952-5586; www.jamaicacarrentals.com), with a branch at the Sangster International Airport at Montego Bay (tel. 876/952-9496). You can also try United Car Rentals, 49 Gloucester Ave. (tel. 876/952-3077), which rents Mazdas, Toyotas, Hondas, and Suzuki jeeps, costing from US$48 per day for a standard, US$64 for automatic.

In Kingston try Island Car Rentals, 17 Antigua Ave. (tel. 876/929-5875; www.islandcarrentals.com). It rents Hondas, Nissans, Toyotas, Suzukis, and others, with rates beginning at US$50 daily in winter and US$44 in the off season.

Expedia.com (www.expedia.com) and Travelocity (www.travelocity.com) can help you compare prices for rentals -- and locate bargains -- in Jamaica.

Driving in Jamaica -- Drive on the left side of the road. You should exercise caution more than usual, and be especially cautious at night: Male drivers here can often be too reckless for comfort. Speed limits in towns are 50kmph (31 mph), and 80kmph (50 mph) outside towns. Gas is measured by the imperial gallon (a British unit of measurement that's about 25% more than a U.S. gal.); most stations don't accept credit cards. Your valid driver's license from home is acceptable for short-term visits to Jamaica.

Auto Breakdowns -- In case of a breakdown, telephone your car-rental agency for assistance.

Road Maps -- A coastal route designated by an A plus a number encircles Jamaica. It's well marked and easy to follow. More complicated are secondary roads, urban streets, and feeder roads, whose markings sometimes are infuriatingly unclear. Recognizing this problem, the Jamaica Tourist Board has issued one of the best maps of the island, the Discover Jamaica road map. It contains a detailed overview of the entire island, as well as blowups of Kingston, Montego Bay, Negril, Mandeville, Spanish Town, Port Antonio, and Ocho Rios; there's also a very useful street index to Kingston. Get it from any Jamaica Tourist Board office or car-rental agency.

By Taxi

Most cabs in Jamaica are older vehicles. Taxis in Kingston don't have meters, so agree on a price before you get in the car. In Kingston and the rest of the island, special taxis and buses for visitors are operated by JUTA (Jamaica Union of Travellers Association) and have the union's emblem on the side of the vehicle. Look for a red Public Passenger Vehicle (PPV) plate.

Taxis can be flagged down on the street or summoned by phone. Rates are per car -- not per passenger -- and 25% is added to the metered rate between midnight and 5am.

Technically, JUTA cabs are supposed to have meters, but most of them are not in working order. Therefore, again, agree on the price of the trip before booking. Cab fares should be posted inside the taxi; if you don't see them, you have the right to request a copy from the driver. A 10% to 12% tip is usually added.

Avoid pirate or unlicensed taxis. Not only are they not metered -- they are illegal and rarely carry insurance.

By Moped & Motorcycle

The front desk of your hotel can usually arrange the rental of a moped or motorcycle. Expect a daily rate of about US$50 for a moped or US$70 for a Honda 550. Depending on the vehicle rented, a deposit of US$100 to US$300 is generally required.

By Plane

Most travelers enter the country via Montego Bay (although American Airlines and Air Jamaica also fly to Kingston). If you want to fly elsewhere on the island, you'll need to use the island's domestic air service, which is provided by Air Jamaica Express. Reservations are handled by Air Jamaica (tel. 800/523-5585 in the U.S. and Canada, or 888/FLY-AIRJ in Jamaica; www.airjamaica.com). You can also reserve from home through a travel agent or American Airlines.

Air Jamaica Express offers scheduled flights daily between the resort areas. There are seven flights a day from Kingston to Montego Bay, two flights a day between Kingston and Ocho Rios, and two flights between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios -- each about US$90 per leg. Car-rental facilities are not available at Jamaica's smaller airports.

Getting There

By Plane

There are two international airports on Jamaica: Donald Sangster (MBJ) in Montego Bay (tel. 876/952-3124; www.mbjairport.com) and Norman Manley (KIN) in Kingston (tel. 876/924-8452; www.nmia.aero). The most popular flights are from New York and Miami. Remember to reconfirm all flights no later than 72 hours before departure. Flying time from Miami is 1 1/4 hours; from Los Angeles, 5 1/2 hours; from Atlanta, 2 1/2 hours; from Dallas, 3 hours; from Chicago and New York, 3 1/2 hours; and from Toronto, 4 hours.

Some of the most convenient service to Jamaica is provided by American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aa.com) through hubs in New York and Miami. Throughout the year, one daily nonstop flight departs from New York's Kennedy Airport for Montego Bay. From Miami, at least two daily flights depart for Kingston and two daily flights depart for Montego Bay.

AmericaWest/US Airways (tel. 800/622-1015 in the U.S. and Canada; www.usairways.com) offers one flight daily from Charlotte, Ft. Lauderdale, Philadelphia, and Washington, D.C. Delta (tel. 800/225-2525 in the U.S. and Canada; www.delta.com) flies directly to Montego Bay daily from Minneapolis.

Air Jamaica (tel. 800/523-5585 in the U.S. and Canada; www.airjamaica.com) operates one or more flights daily to Montego Bay and Kingston from such cities as Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Orlando, Atlanta, Baltimore/Washington, D.C., Philadelphia, Chicago, Newark, Boston, Houston, Los Angeles, New York's JFK, and Toronto. The airline has connecting service within Jamaica through its reservations network to Air Jamaica Express, whose planes usually hold between 10 and 17 passengers. Air Jamaica Express flies from the island's international airports at Montego Bay and Kingston, and also to smaller airports around the island, including Boscobel (near Ocho Rios) and Tinson Pen (near Kingston).

Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262 in the U.S. and Canada; www.aircanada.ca) flies from Toronto to Jamaica daily. The connection to Kingston is nonstop, but the flight to Montego Bay involves a change of planes in Miami. British Airways (tel. 0870/850-9850 in Britain; www.britishairways.com) has four nonstop flights weekly to Montego Bay and Kingston from London's Gatwick Airport.

By Cruise Ship

Most cruise ships heading for Jamaica travel at night, arriving the next morning at the day's port of call, perhaps Montego Bay or Ocho Rios. In port, passengers can go ashore for sightseeing, shopping, and a local meal. Prices vary widely; consult a travel agent for the latest.

Agencies and tour companies offering cruise packages to Jamaica include: Ambassador Tours, 120 Montgomery St., Suite 400, San Francisco, CA 94104 (tel. 800/989-9000 in the U.S. and Canada, or 415/357-9876; www.ambassadortours.com); Cruises, Inc., 1415 NW 62nd St., Suite 205, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 (tel. 888/282-1249 or 800/854-0500 in the U.S. and Canada; www.cruisesinc.com); Cruises of Distinction, 2750 S. Woodward Ave., Bloomfield Hills, MI 48304 (tel. 800/634-3445 in the U.S. and Canada); Cruise Masters, Century Plaza Towers, 2029 Century Park E., Suite 950, Los Angeles, CA 90067 (tel. 800/242-9000 in the U.S. and Canada); Kelly Cruises, 1315 W. 22nd St., Suite 105, Oak Brook, IL 60521 (tel. 800/837-7447 in the U.S. and Canada, or 630/990-1111; www.kellycruises.com); and Hartford Holidays Travel, 129 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, NY 11596 (tel. 800/828-4813 in the U.S. and Canada, or 516/746-6670; www.hartfordholidays.com).

Also stay tuned to last-minute price wars brewing among such megacarriers as Carnival, Royal Caribbean, and Holland America .

The Cruise Lines -- Here's a brief rundown of some of the cruise lines serving Jamaica and the Caribbean. For detailed information, pick up a copy of one of our companion guides in this series, Frommer's Cruises & Ports of Call, Frommer's Caribbean Ports of Call, or The Unofficial Guide to Cruises.

• Carnival Cruise Lines (tel. 888/CARNIVAL in the U.S. and Canada; www.carnival.com): Offering affordable vacations on some of the biggest and most brightly decorated ships afloat, Carnival is the boldest, brashest, most successful mass-market cruise line in the world. Its vessels stop at Ocho Rios and Montego Bay. The cruises offer good value and feature nonstop activities. Food and party-colored drinks are plentiful, and the overall atmosphere is comparable to a floating theme park. Lots of single passengers opt for this line, as do families attracted by the line's well-run children's program.

• Celebrity Cruises (tel. 877/202-4345 in the U.S. and Canada, or 305/539-6000; www.celebrity.com): Celebrity maintains stylish, medium to large ships that stop at Ocho Rios and Montego Bay. It's classy but not stuffy, several notches above mass-market lines. Accommodations are roomy and well equipped, cuisine is refined, and service is impeccable.

• Costa Cruise Lines (tel. 800/462-6782 in the U.S. and Canada, or 954/266-5600; www.costacruises.com): Costa, the U.S.-based branch of a cruise line that has thrived in Italy for about a century, maintains hefty to megasize vessels. Two of Costa's vessels offer similar jaunts through the western Caribbean on alternate weeks, departing from Fort Lauderdale and calling at Ocho Rios. There's an Italian flavor and lots of Italian design on board here, and an atmosphere of relaxed indulgence.

• Holland America Line (tel. 877/932-4259 in the U.S. and Canada; www.hollandamerica.com): Holland America is the most high-toned of the mass-market cruise lines. The ships offer solid value, with very few jolts or surprises, and attract a solid, well-grounded clientele of primarily older travelers (late-night revelers and serious partygoers might want to book cruises on other lines, such as Carnival). Cruises stop at deep-water mainstream ports such as Ocho Rios or Montego Bay, and last an average of 7 days, but in some cases 10 days, visiting such ports as Key West, Grand Cayman, St. Maarten, St. Lucia, Curaçao, Barbados, and St. Thomas.

• Royal Caribbean International (RCI; tel. 866/562-7625 in the U.S. and Canada; www.royalcaribbean.com): RCI leads the industry in the development of megaships. Though accommodations are more than adequate, they are not upscale and tend to be a bit more cramped than the industry norm. Using Miami, Fort Lauderdale, or Galveston as their home port, Royal Caribbean ships call regularly at Ocho Rios and Montego Bay. Most of the company's cruises last 7 days.

Regions in Brief

Most casual visitors to Jamaica pick a resort without paying much attention to its location on the island. That is particularly true for guests who prefer to spend most of their time at an all-inclusive resort, venturing out only occasionally to shop or to see some of the local sights. Even so, knowing a bit about the different areas of Jamaica can help you find the perfect resort for you.

Most travelers who visit Kingston do so for business reasons. But for the true Jamaican culture buff, the island's largest city offers the most museums, the best galleries, and some great historic sights. It also has more nightlife than most of the top resorts, ranging from jazz and reggae clubs to upscale supper clubs and English theater. But you don't come here for beaches.

Port Antonio is for the elite traveler who wants to escape the mass package tours of Ocho Rios or Montego Bay. Come here for some good beaches, plus great river rafting, scuba diving, and snorkeling.

To the west, Ocho Rios features some of the grandest and most traditional resorts in Jamaica, as well as some of the leading Sandals properties. But it doesn't have the best beaches, shops, or scenic attractions. Nonetheless, if you're resort-oriented, this might be your choice.

The grande dame of Jamaica is Montego Bay, which boasts four of the poshest resorts in the Caribbean. Although we prefer the beaches of Negril, those of Montego Bay are equally fine (if crowded in winter). Shopping here is superb for Jamaica; nightlife is surprisingly lackluster.

Negril's great beaches are for hedonists and families.

The South Coast is for back-road adventurers. Chances are you'll overlook the inland city of Mandeville, although it's a good day trip from Negril or the South Coast.

Montego Bay

This is the number-one destination for all of Jamaica, appealing to the widest possible range of visitors. "Mo Bay," as it's known, has the best golf in the West Indies, and four of the grandest resorts on the island; the duty-free shopping here is great. This is about as far from rural Jamaica as you can get: The tourist dollar drives its economy. But it also boasts several attractions in its environs, including former great houses of plantations, decaying old towns such as Falmouth, and daylong adventures into remote Maroon Country.

Negril

Situated near Jamaica's relatively arid western tip, Negril enjoys a reputation as the nudist center of the West Indies, with a kind of gently provocative do-as-you-please attitude. Its Seven Mile Beach is one of the longest uninterrupted stretches of sand in the Caribbean. Other than that beach, its laidback lifestyle, and wild parties, there isn't much here. Outside the megaresorts, restaurants here tend to be locally run dives; amusing, but rarely the place for first-class cuisine.

The South Coast

The little-visited South Coast, lying east of Negril along the A2 (the road to Kingston), is undiscovered Jamaica -- although it's becoming better known all the time. Contrary to the island's lush, tropical image, this area is dry and arid. Hotels are few and far between, and they are frequently of the mom-and-pop persuasion. The chief draw here is Treasure Beach, tucked away on the secluded coast.

Mandeville

Located in south-central Jamaica, Mandeville is the country's highest-altitude town and is built in a style strongly influenced by the British. It is now the center of the island's noted coffee cultivation; a sense of slow-paced colonial charm remains a trademark of the town.

The North Coast

This region's primary natural attractions include its steeply sloping terrain, the setting for panoramic public gardens and dramatic waterfalls.

Set on a deep-water harbor easily able to accommodate cruise ships, Ocho Rios boasts a dense concentration of resort hotels and other vacation spots. It runs a very distant second to Montego Bay in its appeal, although its hinterlands do contain a number of Jamaica's premier attractions, including the overrun Dunn's River Falls. It also can't compete with Montego Bay in beaches or nightlife. What it does offer, however, are some of the grandest resorts in the Caribbean.

Directly west of Ocho Rios is the satellite town of Runaway Bay, which boasts a handful of resorts opening onto some good beaches and has the distinct advantage of not being as overrun with tourists as Ocho Rios.

The hub of verdant eastern Jamaica, Port Antonio still basks in nostalgia. Frequently photographed for its Victorian/Caribbean architecture, it is a refreshing change of pace from touristy Negril, Ocho Rios, and Montego Bay. Beaches such as San San are among the most alluring in the country, and this is also a base for exploring some of the major attractions in Jamaica's hinterlands, including rafting on the Rio Grande River.

Kingston & Spanish Town

Located on the southeast coast, Kingston is Jamaica's capital, largest city, and principal port. It's a cosmopolitan city with approximately 750,000 residents in its metropolitan area and serves as the country's economic, cultural, and government center. Residents proudly call it the world's reggae capital as well. The city's northern district, New Kingston, consists mostly of high-rises, modern buildings, business hotels, and upscale homes. There are, however, extensive poverty-stricken areas as well, and it's not the safest city to visit.

Nevertheless, Kingston could make for a fascinating 1-day visit; it has more cultural attractions, including the National Gallery, than anywhere else on the island.

Nearby are the remains of Port Royal, once an infamous lair of pirates and renegades. Twenty minutes west of Kingston by car is Spanish Town, a slow-paced village containing the Cathedral of St. James.

The Blue Mountains

A land of soaring peaks and deep valleys with luxuriant vegetation, the Blue Mountain range rises to the north of Kingston. Mountain roads wind and dip, and they are in bad repair, so don't try to visit on your own: It's easy to get lost. However, travel agents in Kingston can book you into tours throughout this region of coffee plantations and rum factories. Maintained by the government, the prime part of the mountain range is the 192-acre Blue Mountain-John Crow Mountain National Park.

Tips for Senior Travelers

The island itself is virtually devoid of discounts for senior citizens. Some car-rental companies may extend discounts to seniors, but arrange that before you land on the island. Once on the island, a senior is likely to pay the same prices that anybody else does.

Calendar of Events

For more details on the special events below, go to the Jamaica Tourist Board's website at www.visitjamaica.com or call the Jamaica Tourist Board at tel. 800/JAMAICA (526-2422).

January

Accompong Maroon Festival, St. Elizabeth. Annual celebration of Maroons of Western Jamaica, with traditional singing and dancing, feasts, ceremonies, blowing of the abeng (cow's horn), and playing of Maroon drums. tel. 876/952-4546. January 6.

Jamaica Sprint Triathlon, Negril. Hundreds participate in a three-part competition joining swimming, cycling, and running in one sweat-inducing endurance test. Contact the Jamaica Tourist Board . Late January.

Air Jamaica Jazz & Blues Festival, Montego Bay. Series of concerts at Rose Hall Great House. tel. 876/620-7618. www.airjamaicajazzandblues.com. Late January.

February

Bob Marley Week, Kingston. From reggae concerts to movies, this weeklong celebration honors the king of reggae. Activities also include arts and crafts booths and food festivals. For more information, contact the Robert Marley Foundation at 56 Hope Rd., Kingston (tel. 876/978-2991 or 876/978-2929; http://web.bobmarley.com). Early February.

Bob Marley Birthday Bash, Montego Bay. An annual concert that celebrates a local star. tel. 876/978-2991. February 6.

Reggae Summerfest, Ocho Rios. Annual reggae bash, featuring top reggae stars. Call tel. 876/960-1904 for dates.

March

Jamaica Kiteboard World Cup, Port Antonio. In the Long Bay Beach area of Port Antonio, this is a 10-day event devoted to kite surfing, with riders from around the world joining in the fun. Events include speed races and stunts. March 25 to April 3.

March Spring Break is launched in March and continues into April, as young men and women from American colleges flood Jamaica, mainly Negril and Montego Bay to let off steam. The wildest scene takes place in Negril.

April

Montego Bay Yacht Club's Easter Regatta. Annual sailing event of several races staged along the North Coast over a 4-day period around Easter. tel. 876/979-8038. Easter weekend.

Carnival in Jamaica, Kingston, Ocho Rios, and Montego Bay. Weeklong series of fetes, concerts, and street parades. Contact local tourist offices. First week of April.

Treasure Beach Off Road Triathlon, Treasure Beach (South Coast). Hosted by Jake's Hotel, this challenging event takes place in the small fishing community of Treasure Beach. The triathlon attracts off-road racers from around the world, featuring mountain bike races. April 27.

May

Calabash International Literary Festival, Treasure Beach (South Coast). For literary enthusiasts, this annual event features 30 authors and musicians from across the world who will read or perform. The free festival is a mixture of new and established writers who participate. For more information and exact dates search www.calabashfestival.org.

StyleWeek Jamaica & Fashion Block, Kingston. A 3-day extravaganza, this event on the streets of New Kingston showcases not only Jamaican designers, but the work of designers from both the United States and Europe. Fashionistas attend cocktail receptions, seminars, and runway shows. May 28 to 31.

June

Kingston on the Edge Urban Art Festival (KOTE), Kingston. Modern artists show their works in this inclusive festival that invites both traditional and avant-garde painters. The KOTE is a cultural affair, with plays, concerts, multimedia shows, an art auction, and other events. June 18 to 26.

Caribbean Fashion Week, Kingston. This event for fashion-savvy individuals is an extravagant affair held for the most part at the National Indoor Sports Centre, plus other locations. Caribbean and international designers participate as do supermodels and various celebrities. June 9 to 14.

Ocho Rios Jazz Festival, Ocho Rios and Montego Bay. International performers play alongside Jamaican jazz artists; other events include barbecues. tel. 866/649-2137 in the U.S., or 876/927-3544. www.ochoriosjazz.com. Second week in June.

July

Little Ochi Seafood Carnival, Alligator Pond (South Coast). Visitors are invited to sample a range of culinary delights from the sea, including peppered shrimp and escoveitched fish. Top local reggae musicians and "vintage artistes" provide nonstop entertainment. July 11.

National Dance Theatre Company's Season of Dance, Kingston. Traditional and modern dance, as well as notable singers. tel. 876/926-6129. July through August.

Reggae Sumfest, Catherine Hall, Montego Bay. Annual 5-day music festival. tel. 876/953-2933. www.reggaesumfest.com. Late July.

August

The Absolute Temptation Isle, Negril. Summer sizzles here at this event that features about a dozen bigtime parties spread across the resort area. Participating businesses include everyone from Risky Business to Hedonism II. August 5 to 8.

Red Stripe Dream Weekend, Negril. Party lovers flock to this weekend of events that coincides with Independence weekend celebrations across the island. Food, drink, reggae, and much more fill the night. August 5 to 8.

The National Independence Float Parade and Grand Gala, Kingston. This is one of the most significant celebratory events on the Jamaican cultural calendar. The celebrations take place on the streets of Kingston, which fill with colorful floats, costumed groups, music trucks, classic cars, and marching bands. For more details, search www.jcdc.org.jm. August 6.

September

Falmouth Blue Marlin Tournament, Montego Bay. A big deal locally. tel. 876/927-0145. Late September.

October

Port Antonio International Fishing Tournament. One of the oldest and most prestigious sportfishing events in the Caribbean, with participants from Europe and North America. tel. 876/927-0145. Mid-October.

December

Motor Sports Championship Series, Dover Raceway, St. Ann. Prestigious championship event. tel. 876/960-3860. Early December.

Tips for Travelers with Disabilities

Jamaican hotels rarely give much publicity to the facilities (if any) they offer persons with disabilities, so it's always wise to contact the hotel directly, in advance. Tourist offices probably won't be able to help you with such questions.

For the most part, Jamaica is not friendly to travelers with disabilities, and it's difficult to navigate this destination, often requiring extreme mobility. Most hotels, public transportation, and restaurants are not disability friendly, and there is no local organization to help make arrangements for travelers with disabilities.

Tips for Families

Jamaica is one of the top family-vacation destinations in the Caribbean, and many of the island's resorts offer supervised children's activities, babysitters, family discounts, and special meals for kids.

Jamaica has more adult, couples only resorts than any other island in the Caribbean. In many places, such as the Sandals or Hedonism chain of resorts, kids are not accepted.

Every hotel that accepts children seems to have a different policy. For example, Half Moon in Montego Bay lets children 11 and under stay free in their parents' room, as does the Ritz-Carlton also in Montego Bay. However, some hotels will charge $25 to $105 extra per night for a child. When making reservations, it's important to ask what the policy is regarding children in the room.

The two most family-friendly resorts in Jamaica are the FDR (Franklyn D. Resort) at Runaway Bay and the FDR Pebbles in Montego Bay, both of which allow kids 5 and under to stay for free, but charge $50 daily for ages 6 to 15. Some resorts, however, will charge much higher prices. For example, Beaches Negril, books children, ages 2 to 15 years, at a rate of $105 per night.

Entry Requirements & Customs

Entry Requirements

Even if immigration authorities in Jamaica may not require a valid passport to enter their island, you will need one to return to the United States or Canada or perhaps your own country. Your period of stay depends on the "discretion" of immigration authorities. Most stays -- without a visa -- extend to 6 months.

Upon entering Jamaica, it is also prudent to have an ongoing or return ticket.

Immigration cards are given to visitors at the airport arrivals desks. Hold on to yours because you will need to surrender the document to Jamaican Customs when you leave the country.

For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov/foreignentryreqs.html.

Passports 

For Residents of Australia -- Contact the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada -- Contact the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland -- Contact the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

For Residents of New Zealand -- Contact the Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

For Residents of the United Kingdom -- Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (tel. 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

For Residents of the United States -- To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (http://travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Jamaica -- Many small island nations in the Caribbean let you go through Customs without a thorough check: Jamaica is an exception. The Jamaican government is concerned about drug running and smuggling more than most other island nations. Therefore, your luggage may get a more thorough check in Jamaica than it would elsewhere.

You can bring in 2 liters of alcohol, plus two cartons of cigarettes. You're allowed to bring in some duty-free goods, but there's potential confusion here. You're not supposed to bring in an "inordinate" amount of such goods; local Customs officials have great leeway to interpret what's meant by "inordinate." So limit your import of duty-free goods to avoid paying a big import tax.

What You Can Take Home from Jamaica -- For information on what you're allowed to bring home, contact one of the following agencies:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667; www.cbp.gov).

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (tel. 0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., tel. 020/8929-0152; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave., Canberra City, ACT 2601 (tel. 1300/363-263; from outside Australia, tel. 612/6275-6666; www.customs.gov.au).

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

Medical Requirements

Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into Jamaica.

Health & Safety

Traveling to Jamaica should not adversely affect your health. Finding a good doctor in Jamaica is no real problem, and all of them speak English.

Regional Health Concerns

Keep the following suggestions in mind:

• It's best to drink bottled water in Jamaica.
• If you experience diarrhea, moderate your eating habits and drink only bottled water until you recover. If symptoms persist, consult a doctor.
• The Jamaican sun can be brutal. Wear sunglasses and a hat, and use sunscreen liberally. Limit your time on the beach the first day. If you do overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover. If your exposure is followed by fever or chills, a headache, or a feeling of nausea or dizziness, see a doctor.
• Some of the biggest annoyances in Jamaica are the insects called "no-see-ums," which appear mainly in the early evening. You can't see these gnats, but you sure can "feel-um." Screens can't keep these critters out, so carry your favorite bug repellent.

You don't need to get any particular shots or vaccinations to travel in Jamaica, and most common medicines are available over the counter. If you need special medication, however, try to arrive in Jamaica with an adequate supply for the duration of your trip.

If you're traveling in the countryside, it's wise to take a small medical kit with you containing antacid, antiseptics, calamine lotion, Band-Aids, sunscreen, lip balm, water purification tablets, and insect repellent.

What To Do If You Get Sick Away from Home

Crime & Safety

Except for Haiti, Jamaica is the most potentially dangerous destination in the Caribbean. You can get into a lot of trouble in Jamaica or you can have a carefree vacation. Much depends on you, where you go, and what you do. Women traveling alone or even in pairs are especially vulnerable, as rapes are alarmingly common.

Walking alone at night, or even with a loved one, on a moonlit Jamaican beach is a romantic idea -- but not smart. You could be mugged. And hitchhiking for both women and men is never a good idea in Jamaica. There have been cases of "disappearances" in the remote hinterlands.

Petty crime also continues to be a major problem on the island, especially in the capital city of Kingston. Americans on many occasions have been robbed, the bandit turning violent if he faces resistance.

Bus travel in Jamaica is definitely not recommended. Buses are invariably overcrowded and the greatest venue for the pickpocket to practice his trade.

The good news? In major resort areas such as Montego Bay, the government is hiring more special foot police and bike patrols to enhance security. These megaresorts are virtually walled compounds with 24-hour guards. Smaller inns don't have such protection, however, so make sure that all your doors and windows are securely locked.

Sustainable Travel & Ecotourism

For the eco-tourist to Jamaica, the greenest attraction is the Blue Mountains. Campgrounds are found in areas supervised by the Jamaican Forestry Department. In most cases you will have to provide your own equipment.

A permit is needed to use one of the forest campsites. Check with the Jamaican Forestry Department, 173 Constant Spring Rd., Kingston (tel. 876/924-2667 or forestrydepartment@forestry.gov.jm). Usually you pay US$10 per tent. Generally shower, toilet, and laundry facilities are available at these sites. The weather in these mountains is often very cold between December and February.

One way to go green in Jamaica is to book lodgings at an eco-lodge. Most of these accommodations are a bit rawboned, but some of them are most desirable. You live in comfort.

Our favorite is Hotel Mocking Bird Hill in the Port Antonio area. Set in excellent birding and hiking country, it is a bastion of charm, good food, and very comfortable accommodations. You experience nature, but don't have to rough it here. You might have breakfast watching the hummingbirds flitter from flower to flower. Many hotels in Jamaica have gardens, but Mocking Bird Hill has 6 1/2 acres of lush organic tropical gardens and trees, one of the most environmentally friendly oases on island. It also is a short drive to waterfalls, deep forests, and botanical gardens along the north coast. Its eco credentials are Green Globe-certified, which is also reflected in the organic food that makes use of locally grown produce. The resort even sponsors an art class for its employees. They turn recycled paper into crafts they can sell. The owners of Mocking Bird also make an annual contribution to offset the hotel's carbon emissions.

For other eco-lodges throughout Jamaica, search www.eco-tropicalresorts.com/caribbean/jamaica.htm. Here you'll see pictures and a brief description of such properties as Strawberry Fields Together, lying in St. Mary Parish and set on 18 lush acres of a tropical nature reserve and sanctuary. It's surrounded by thousands of acres of undeveloped coast to explore. This property lies in one of the last unspoiled stretches along Jamaica's north coast.

Named after the popular Beatles song, Strawberry Fields Forever draws "green" visitors from all over the world to what the owners call "our little piece of paradise." Founded in the 1970s, it is a return to Jamaica like it used to be. Set at the end of a road, it opens onto miles of coastal trails, hidden waterfalls, empty beaches, and even colonial ruins to explore on its programs of adventure tours. The surrounding area can be explored by hiking or on horseback. A boat is used for snorkeling and fishing trips. The owners of the compound have cleared trails for their guests to explore. At the end of the trails you come across a beautiful black sandy beach cove or else the Kwamen Falls where you can go for a cooling swim. A picnic lunch of roast fish and yams is prepared. Adventure groups often book this nature retreat.

One of the most eco-friendly and atmospheric lodgings in all of Jamaica is found in the Zion Country Eco Beach Cabins, Muirton Pen (Long Rd.), in Portland (tel. 876/451-1737). These cabins, set on an acre of lush land with a private beach, lie between Manchioneal and Long Road in the east of Jamaica. Nature lovers, backpackers, and low-budget travelers check in here, enjoying the distant view of John Crow Mountains. Each cottage has two rooms, a sea view, and balcony, where you can fall asleep in a hammock. Rainwater provides for the bathrooms and showers, and the mini-resort recycles glass, paper, and plastic waste.

The resort of Negril offers the most eco-friendly lodges on island. As you're looking for green lodges, check out the reviews of Tensing Pen and the Negril Yoga Centre.

To familiarize yourself with "Green Jamaica" before actually flying there, search http://greenjamaica.com/eco_tourism. The site is dedicated to the preservation and environmental awareness of promoting eco-tourism on the island. One of its highlights is focusing on "green hot spots" on island.

When to Go

High Season vs. Off-Season

With its ever-pleasant weather, Jamaica is more and more a year-round destination. Nevertheless, the island has a distinct high season running roughly from mid-December through mid-April. Hotels charge their highest prices during this peak winter period, when visitors fleeing cold north winds crowd the beaches.

Reservations should be made 2 to 3 months in advance for trips during the winter. At certain hotels, think about booking a year ahead for Christmas holidays or February.

The off-season lasts roughly from mid-April to mid-December. In many cases, rates for hotels, tours, and airfare are lower than in winter—and easier to come by.

Off-Season Advantages:

• A less-hurried way of life prevails. You'll have a better chance to appreciate food, culture, and customs.
• Swimming pools and beaches are less crowded.
• Year-round resort facilities are offered, often at reduced rates, which may include snorkeling, boating, and scuba diving.
• Hoping to clear excess merchandise, resort boutiques often feature summer sales.
• You can often appear without a reservation at a top restaurant in, say, Montego Bay and get a table.
• The endless waiting game is over: no waiting for a rented car, tee time, or tennis court.

Off-Season Disadvantages:

• You might be staying at a construction site. Some hoteliers save their serious repairs and major renovations for the off-season.
• Services are sometimes reduced.
• Not all restaurants and bars will be fully operational at resorts.
• Hotels and resorts may be operating with reduced staff.

Avoiding Spring Break: Throughout March and into mid-April, it's spring-break season in the Caribbean for vacationing college students. Expect beach parties, sports events, and musical entertainment. If the idea of partying fraternity bros fills you with anxiety, beware. When you make your reservations, ask if your hotel is planning to host any big spring break events.

Climate

Along the seashore, where most visitors congregate, the island is air-conditioned by northeasterly trade winds, and temperature variations are surprisingly slight. Coastal readings average between 22°C (71°F) and 31°C (88°F) year-round. The Jamaican winter is similar to May in the United States or northern Europe; there can be chilly times in the early morning or at night. Winter is generally the driest season, but can be wet in mountain areas; expect showers, especially in northeastern Jamaica.

Inland, temperatures decrease by approximately 0.55°C for every 91m (about 1°F for every 300-ft.) increase in elevation.

Rainfall is heaviest along the eastern edge of the island's North Coast, with Port Antonio receiving the most intense downpours. The island has two rainy seasons: 1.) May and 2.) October through November.

The Hurricane Season: The curse of Jamaican weather, the hurricane season, officially lasts from June 1 to November 30. Satellite weather forecasts generally give adequate warning so that precautions can be taken. If you're heading to Jamaica during the hurricane season, monitor forecasts made by the National Weather Service and the Weather Channel.

Staying Connected

Since the electronic revolution began, thousands of Jamaicans -- especially those in the tourist industry charged with the transport of visitors and supplies -- rely on cellphones for maintaining contact with their central headquarters, often many times during the course of an average work day.

You'll certainly find purveyors of cellphones on-site, but a bit of advance research will help smooth the way, and if the cellphone you use on a daily basis at home, or even your laptop computer, is calibrated correctly, you might be able to save money through advance arrangements with your present mobile carrier or (insofar as SKYPE calls funneled through your laptop) your Internet carrier.

We advise contacting your present cellphone carrier to see if cellphone coverage is available, sometimes for an additional fee, in Jamaica.

If it isn't, a local company with a good reputation for clarity of sound in at least the densely populated regions of the country (Kingston and the tourist resorts of the north coast) is Cellular Abroad (tel. 800/287-5072; www.cellularabroad.com). For between 1- and 7-day rental of a cellphone, you'll pay US$59 for the phone rental, plus an additional US$69 for a pre-paid SIM card. This provides you with a local cellphone number, free incoming calls, voicemail, text messaging, and outgoing usage to your pre-paid limit.

Jamaica is part of the GSM system. You can therefore use your own phone if it is of the AT&T or T-mobile variety; if it is world capable (quad band, or dual band international), and if it can be "unlocked" to accept any SIM card from any carrier. GSM phones have a SIM card slot, which lets you put the rangeRoamer SIM card in it. Only about 4% of Verizon or Sprint phones work well in Jamaica.

To solve any cellphone problem, you can hook up with rangeRoamer (www.rangeroamer.com), which provides short-term cellphone service for visitors to the island. You can buy, rent, or use your own cellphone in Jamaica. rangeRoamer allows you to select a prepaid SIM or a postpaid SIM card. The rangeRoamer solution will automatically find and link you to the strongest cellular network available in Jamaica, where the reception is almost always good unless you're traveling in such areas as the Blue Mountains. Under the rangeRoamer plan, calls from Jamaica to the United States carry a 69¢-a-minute surcharge.

As a rough indication of pricing, outgoing calls to the U.S. cost between US$17 and US$29 per minute, depending on the time of day. Per minute rates to most worldwide destinations are around US$30 at all times of the day or night. Although there are some hotels still charging 40% surcharges, the Jamaican phone system has been upgraded in most places and rates for most calls to the United States generally cost US$3 to US$5 per minute (that's US dollars). Of course, a prudent guest at a hotel will inquire about surcharges before placing calls. Check-in is a good time to ask.

Internet & E-Mail

Wi-Fi or Internet access increases in Jamaica every year, as technology improves. However, all first class hotels and deluxe resorts have Wi-Fi or Internet access. Prices are given for Wi-Fi or Internet access under the individual hotel listings. In addition, you'll find at least one cyber cafe in each of the major resorts. Cyber Up, 7 Mile Beach (next to Alfred's) in Negril (tel. 876/957-4731), is open from 10am to midnight; Jerkin@Taj Internet Café, Taj Mahal Centre in Ocho Rios (tel. 876/974-7438), is open 9am to 10pm; and Internet Zone, 47 Gloucester Ave., White Sands, Montego Bay (tel. 876/940-7843), is open 9am to midnight. The price range is from $6 to $7.50 per hour.

All major airports in Jamaica also have Wi-Fi or Internet access. Chances are your departure will be at the international airport at Montego Bay. There is Internet service available for about $6 per hour at Business & Play, an E-island kiosk in the Departure Lobby (tel. 876/940-0977). If you're arriving at this airport, you'll have to wait to connect with the Internet at your hotel.

Telephones

Calls dialed from a private home or with a cellphone to any point within Jamaica don't require any special prefixes, regardless of the distance involved. Only the local seven-digit Jamaican number is necessary. Calls made from within your hotel room, regardless of their final destination, will require the use of whatever prefix the hotel has assigned. Round Hill, for example, requires dialing a "9" for access to an outside line.

A minor exception to the above-stated rule: If you're dialing from any phone in Jamaica to any MOBILE phone in Jamaica, you'll have to precede the seven digits with a "1."

How can you recognize a number associated with a mobile, as opposed to a "land line" phone in Jamaica? The first three digits of any seven-digit Jamaican phone number associated with DIGICELL are 367 or 850. The first three digits of any seven-digit Jamaican phone number associated with LIME are 323 or 770.

To call the United States or Canada from any phone in Jamaica, dial "1" then the area code, then the seven-digit US or Canadian phone number. Many hotels will require preceding that with a "9" as a means of connecting to an outside line.

To call the UK, Australia, or New Zealand from any phone in Jamaica, dial "011" and then the country code, and then the local phone number within that country. The country code for the UK is "44," the country code for Australia is "61," and the country code for New Zealand is "64." Many hotels will require preceding these configurations with a "9" as a means of connecting to an outside line.

To reach directory assistance within Jamaica, dial 114.

There are a diminishing importance and visibility of pay phones and even phones that accept phone cards, on the streets of Jamaican cities. The understanding is that increasing numbers of Jamaicans maintain their own cellphones, in many cases as the primary lines connecting, say, a family to the outside world. Because of this, there are virtually no "coin-operated" pay phones left in Jamaica, with the exception of a handful of public phones operated by U.S. coins (not Jamaican coins). These are almost exclusively within the Montego Bay and Kingston Airports.

As regards "phone cards," the newest permutation of this is the very popular "Just Talk" phone cards. Sold at kiosks, newsstands, and in all kinds of stores, including most pharmacies, they're sold in denominations of J$100; J$200, and J$500. They are NOT designed to be inserted into a slot in any public phone. Instead, users of these cards follow a set of instructions whereby each card's individual codes are punched into the phone's keypad (within a private home, on a cellphone, in any of the increasingly rare public phones, or within a hotel room). Note: All hotels invariably tack a $3 surcharge onto any call made with a "Just Talk" card. This $3 surcharge makes "Just Talk" cards a lot less appealing for hotel guests.

Fast Facts

Area Code -- The area code for Jamaica is 876.

Business Hours -- Banks are open Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm. Store hours vary, but as a rule most business establishments open at 8:30am and close at 4:30 or 5pm Monday to Friday. Some shops open Saturday until noon.

Currency Exchange -- There are Bank of Jamaica exchange bureaus at both international airports (near Montego Bay and Kingston), at cruise ship piers, and in most hotels.

Doctors -- Many major resorts have doctors on call. If you need any particular medicine or treatment, bring evidence such as a letter from your home doctor.

Drinking Laws -- These are not rigidly enforced but patrons of bars should be 18 years old.

Electricity -- Most places use the standard electrical voltage of 110, as in the U.S. However, some establishments still operate on 220 volts, 50 cycles. If your hotel is on a different current than your U.S.-made appliance, ask for a transformer and adapter.

Embassies, Consulates & High Commissions -- Calling embassies or consulates in Jamaica is a challenge. Phones will ring and ring before being picked up, if they are answered at all. Extreme patience is needed to reach a live voice on the other end. The embassy of the United States is located at the Jamaica Mutual Life Building, 2 Oxford Rd., Kingston 5 (tel. 876/929-4850). The High Commission of Canada is situated at 3 W. Kings House Rd., Kingston 10 (tel. 876/926-1500). The High Commission of the United Kingdom is found at 28 Trafalgar Rd., Kingston 10 (tel. 876/510-0700).

Emergencies -- For police and air rescue, dial tel. 119; to report a fire or call an ambulance, dial tel. 110.

Gasoline (Petrol) -- Stations are found at regular intervals along the coastal road, but be prepared to pay more per gallon than you would in the United States. Gasoline prices are soaring, and who knows what petrol will cost at the time of your visit. If you drive inland, plan ahead as stations are few and far between.

Holidays -- Jamaica observes the following public holidays: New Year's Day, Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Monday, National Labour Day (late May), Independence Day (a Monday in early Aug), National Heroes Day (3rd Monday in Oct), Christmas Day, and Boxing Day (Dec 26).

Insurance -- Because of the high crime rate in Jamaica, it is prudent to carry insurance for your personal property. Hotel rooms are sometimes robbed of personal possessions, and luggage is often stolen at the airport. In the unwise event that you take valuable jewelry into Jamaica, it definitely should be included in your insurance policy. Expensive electronic equipment is also a target for thieves.

Internet Access -- Access to the Web is usually arranged through your hotel.

Language -- English is the language of the land, but Jamaicans have invented their own patois as well, with a series of constantly evolving idioms. You'd really have to live in Jamaica and become Jamaican -- for example, women are commonly referred to as "him" -- to fully understand the local language. If your beauty is being complimented, a Jamaican might tell you -- "tree nag grow in yuh face."

Legal Aid -- Legal aid is granted only in criminal matters. For most foreign visitors, the majority of charges filed are for use or possession of illegal drugs. In Jamaica, the Legal Aid Council administers legal aid across the island. The staff has two clinics, one at 131 Tower St. in Kingston and another at 17 Orange St. in Montego Bay. For more information check www.moj.gov/jm/node/view13, or call tel. 876/906-4923.

Lost & Found -- Forget it, especially the lost. In this poor country, Jamaicans seem to feel that "finders are keepers."

Mail -- Instead of going to a post office, you can, in most cases, give mail to the hotel reception. Most hotels also sell stamps. Allow about a week for an airmail postcard or letter to reach North America. Increases in postal charges may be implemented at any time, so ask about the current rate before depositing mail. For mail to any business listed in this guide, remember to include "Jamaica, W.I." in the address. Call tel. 876/922-9431 in Kingston with questions. For important items, consider a courier service such as DHL (tel. 876/922-7333) or Federal Express (tel. 876/952-0411).

Newspapers & Magazines -- Jamaica supports three daily newspapers (Daily Gleaner, The Jamaica Record, and Daily Star), several weekly periodicals, and a handful of other publications. U.S. newsmagazines, such as Time and Newsweek, as well as occasional copies of the Miami Herald, are available at most newsstands.

Nudity -- Nude sunbathing and swimming are allowed at a number of hotels, clubs, and beaches (especially in Negril), but only where signs state that swimsuits are optional. Elsewhere, law enforcement officials won't even allow topless sunbathing.

Pharmacies -- Prescriptions are only accepted by local pharmacies if they were issued by a Jamaican doctor. Luckily, hotels have doctors on call. If you need any particular medicine or treatment, bring evidence, such as a letter from your own physician.

Police -- Dial tel. 119.

Smoking -- Smoking rules are relatively relaxed. The moment you arrive at an airport in Jamaica, you are likely to smell the aroma of ganja in the air. Although Jamaicans smoke more pot than any other island in the Caribbean, know that the government views it as an illegal substance and you can be arrested. Otherwise, the smoking of regular cigarettes is not allowed in restaurants or hotel rooms. However, smoking is permitted on terraces and open-air cafes, among other establishments. As a general rule, avoid smoking in any public place that is enclosed.

Taxes -- The government imposes a 10% to 15% room tax, depending on your category of hotel. You'll be charged a US$37 departure tax at the airport, payable in either Jamaican or U.S. dollars. There's also a 20% government tax on rental cars and a 20% tax on all overseas phone calls.

Telephones -- The island's phone system is expensive for overseas calls but local calls are inexpensive unless your hotel decides to impose an unreasonable surcharge. Ask when you check in. Some hotels impose a 1,000% markup on overseas calls. With some exceptions, all Jamaican phone numbers have seven digits. To place a local call, simply dial the number. But if you're calling, say, Kingston from Montego Bay, precede the number with a 1. To call the United States from Jamaica, dial 1 and then your desired number.

Telegraph, Telex & Fax -- Even the island's smallest hotels maintain their own fax machines. For telexes, contact the local branch of Cable & Wireless Jamaica, the country's telecommunications operators. In Kingston, its address is 47 Half Way Tree Rd. (tel. 876/926-9700).

Time -- During the winter, Jamaica is on Eastern Standard Time, the same as New York and Toronto. When the United States is on daylight saving time, however, it's 6am in Miami and 5am in Kingston; Jamaica does not switch to DST.

Tipping -- Tipping is customary in Jamaica. Typically 10% or 15% is expected in hotels and restaurants on occasions when you would normally tip. Most places add a service charge to the bill, but a little extra (3%-5%) is often expected for good service. Tipping is not "officially" allowed at all-inclusive resorts.

Toilets -- Don't expect to find convenient toilets if you're traveling around Jamaica. If you're in need, you may have to do as the locals do and take "to the bush." Even in built-up resort areas, public toilets are not always available, and cleanliness can be an issue. In resorts, toilets are found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, bus stations, service stations, and at the airport. Fast food restaurants generally have clean facilities. Toilets in restaurants and bars in some resorts may be reserved for patrons.

Useful Telephone Numbers -- Ambulance, tel. 110; fire, tel. 110; police, tel. 119; time, tel. 117; toll operator and telephone assistance on local and intraisland calls, tel. 112; overseas calls operator, tel. 113; Post and Telephone Department, tel. 876/922-9430.

Visitor Information -- Before you go, you can get information from the Jamaica Tourist Board at 5201 Blue Lagoon Dr., Suite 670, Miami, FL 33126 (tel. 800/233-4582 or 305/665-0557).

In Canada contact the office in Toronto at 303 Eglinton Ave. E., Suite 200, Toronto, ON M4P IL3 (tel. 800/465-2624 or 416/482-7850). Brits can contact the London office: 1-2 Prince Consort Rd., London SW7 2BZ (tel. 020/7224-0505; www.visitjamaica.com).

The Internet is a great source of travel information. Jamaica is on the Internet at www.visitjamaica.com; www.jamaican.com; www.jamaicatravelnet.com; www.jamaica-guide.info. In addition, Yahoo (www.yahoo.com), Excite (www.excite.com), Lycos (www.lycos.com), and the other major Internet indexing sites all have subcategories for travel, country/regional information, and culture -- click on all three for links to travel-related websites.

Other good clearinghouse sites for information are Microsoft Expedia (www.expedia.com) and Travelocity (www.travelocity.com).

You might also check out "The Unofficial Website on Jamaica" (www.jamaicans.com), the best all-around site, with some good pointers, cultural tidbits, a patois primer, and plenty of humor. This is one of the few Jamaica Web pages that isn't either a blatant ad or just somebody's home page with a few vacation pictures.

Water -- It's usually safe to drink tap water island-wide; however, it's prudent to drink bottled water, if available. We do.