Planning a trip to Madrid

Getting There

Madrid’s international airport, Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas (tel. 91-321-10-00; code: MAD), is 20km (12.5 miles) northeast of the city center. Most international flights arrive at Terminals 1 or 4.

The simplest way into town is by bus. Catch the 24-hour Exprés Aeropuerto (route 203) at Level 0 Arrivals in Terminal 1, 2, or 4. Buses leave every 15 to 20 minutes during the day, every 35 minutes at night. Tickets cost 5€; pay the driver with cash or card. The trip takes around 40 minutes, stopping at Plaza de Cibeles and (during the day only) at the main Atocha rail station.

The airport has two Metro stations: Aeropuerto T4 and Aeropuerto T1-T2-T3. Trains run from 6am to 1:30am. To use the Metro, first buy a red Multicard (2.50€) from a machine at the station which you can top up during your stay. From the airport, take the pink Line 8 to Nuevos Ministerios, which connects with the main subway lines. Tickets to downtown destinations cost 4.50€–5€. There is also a Cercanías train service (denoted by a white C in a red circle) from Terminal 4. From other terminals you’ll need to catch a free shuttle bus to the station. Lines C1 and C10 operate roughly every 15 minutes from 6am to midnight. Tickets cost 2.60€ from machines at the station. The trip takes around 30 minutes, making several stops including Atocha station.

There are clearly signed taxi ranks at Level 0 Arrivals at all four terminals. Official taxis are white with a red stripe and have the Madrid city crest on the door; avoid drivers offering unofficial taxi service. There’s a fixed rate of 30€ for the trip into the central city zone. You can pay with cash or card. You can also book an Uber and Cabify taxi to pick you up at the airport, costing around 25€. Follow instructions on the app for directions to pick-up points.

Getting to Madrid By Train

Madrid has two major railway stations. Centrally located Atocha (metro: Atocha, L1) is the main hub handling high-speed services linking eastern and southern cities, including Barcelona, Valencia, Sevilla, and Málaga. Chamartín (metro: Chamartín, L1, L10) to the north of the city operates high-speed trains to northern and western cities, including Segovia, Valladolid, and León, as well as some high-speed services to Barcelona and Valencia. Both stations also handle mid-distance regional trains and commuter trains (Cercanías) serving the suburbs.

The state-owned rail company Renfe remains the main operator, offering premium high-speed AVE (Alta Velocidad Española) and lower cost Avlo services, but now faces competition on a deregulated rail network from private operators Ouigo and Iryo. For Renfe ticket sales, visit renfe.com or call 91-232-03-20, or go to the ticket office at the station. For Ouigo and Iryo, buy tickets on-line or through their apps. On all services, book in advance to make savings. Tip: Security is tight at Spanish railway stations. For high-speed journeys, especially at peak times, it is advisable to arrive 30 minutes before your departure time to get through the baggage checks.

Getting to Madrid By Bus

Madrid’s main bus terminus, Estación Sur, Calle Méndez Álvaro 83 (tel. 91-468-42-00; metro: Méndez Álvaro, L6) serves more than 50 companies, including the major Spanish operators Alsa (tel. 90-242-22-42) and Avanza (tel. 90-092-18-95), and the European budget operator FlixBus, linking to 1,500 destinations across Spain and more than 500 across Europe and Morocco.

Getting to Madrid By Car

Being in the center of Spain, Madrid is the hub of a well-developed network of highways that radiates to all corners of the country. Kilómetro Cero in Puerta del Sol is the starting point from which the distances of its six national highways are measured.

Highways to Madrid

Route         From          Distance to Madrid

N-I              Irún            507km (315 miles)

N-II             Barcelona    626km (389 miles)

N-III            Valencia      349km (217 miles)

N-IV           Cádiz          625km (388 miles)

N-V            Badajoz      409km (254 miles)

N-VI           Galicia        602km (374 miles)

Entry Requirements & Customs

A valid passport is all that an American, Australian, British, Canadian, or New Zealand citizen needs to enter Spain. Visitors from these countries do not need a visa so long as their visit does not exceed 90 days.

Customs

What You Can Bring into Spain -- You can bring most personal effects and the following items duty-free: two still cameras and 10 rolls of film per camera, tobacco for personal use, 1 liter each of liquor and wine (for travelers age 18 or over), a portable radio, a cassette or digital recorder, a laptop, a bicycle, sports equipment, and fishing gear.

What You Can Take Home from Spain -- U.S. Citizens: For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (

Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).

U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult the website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information log on to homeaffairs.gov.au.

New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered at www.customs.govt.nz.

Getting Around

You can walk most places in central Madrid, and it’s the best way to experience the city. To save time, it’s a good idea to take public transport to get to a neighborhood and then explore it on foot. Madrid was built on high ground to command the modest valley of the Manzanares River. There’s little difference in elevation between most of the popular parts of the city, but you will encounter some uphill climbs, particularly from Lavapiés back to the center of town. 

Madrid By Public Transit

Madrid has some of Europe’s best integrated and least expensive public transport. If you expect to travel a lot during a short stay, it may make sense to buy a Tourist ticket (Tarjeta turística), which gives you unlimited rides on the Metro, buses, and some local trains. Choose Zone A if you plan to travel around the city center, and Zone T if you plan to make daytrips to places like El Escorial. Passes come pre-loaded onto the transport Multicard, available from machines at all Metro stations or from tourist offices. Zone A prices range from 1 day (10€) to 7 days (42€); Zone T from 15€ to 61€.

An even better option might be the new Madrid City Card which includes the same transport benefits within Zone A, plus discounts and skip-the-line access at many attractions. Options range from 1 day (10€) to 5 days (32.50€). You can buy the City Card at tourist offices or online (citycard.esmadrid.com). Children under 11 get a 50% discount, while children under 4 travel free on public transport.

By Metro (Subway)

The Metro system is clean, efficient, and easy to navigate. Twelve color-coded main lines cover most of the city. In addition to a standard Metro map, the tourist office offers a useful downloadable tourist map showing the stations closest to the main sights. The Metro operates from 6am to 1:30am. It’s best to avoid rush hour between 7:30 and 9:30am and 6 to 8pm.

If you don’t opt for an unlimited-ride Tourist ticket (see above), buy a Multi Card costing 2.50€ at one of the machines at the station. Keep it and top up your balance as needed. The standard fare is 1.50€ for the first five stations you go through, up to a 2€ maximum in central Madrid. For 12.20€, you can also buy a 10-trip Metrobus ticket, good on both the Metro and city buses.

Ever wonder how madrileños manage to stay out so late and still put in a full day’s work? Look out for power nappers as you ride the Metro.

By Bus

Madrid’s 200-line bus network is not easy for the visitor to figure out during a short stay, but there are some useful services to look out for. Two zero-emission routes, known as Línea Cero, are free of charge and serve many of the central sights. Line 001 runs between Atocha and Moncloa, and 002 between Puerta de Toledo and Argüelles. A city center minibus, line M3, runs between Puerta de Toledo and Plaza de Canalejas.

Elsewhere, buses are a useful way to move up and down the Paseos, for example from Bernabéu stadium to the Reina Sofía museum (number 27). Buses run 6am‒11:30pm, with less frequent night service. A single ticket costs 1.50€; buy on board with card or cash (drivers won’t accept notes larger than 5€). Or buy a 10-trip Metrobus ticket or unlimited-ride Tourist ticket (see above). 

By Commuter Rail

The Cercanía train network, designed as suburban commuter rail, is also a convenient way to visit El Escorial (from Chamartín station), or Alcalá de Henares (from Atocha station). Fares on the cercanías run 1.70€ to 8.70€, depending on zone. Note: Some Cercanías trains are included on the Tourist ticket (check at the station) but not on the Metrobus pass.

By Taxi

Madrid’s taxis are white with a diagonal red stripe and the city’s crest on the front door. At the airport and rail and bus stations, you need to go to a taxi rank, but elsewhere you can hail them on the street. A green light, or the sign “LIBRE,” indicates they are available.

Cab fares are pretty reasonable. When you flag down a taxi, the meter should register 2.50€ 6am to 9pm or 3.15€ 9pm to 6am; for every kilometer thereafter, the fare increases between 1.10€ and 1.35€. A supplement is charged for trips to the railway station, the bullring, or the football stadiums. The ride to Barajas Airport is a flat 30€. In addition, a 1.20€ supplement is charged on Sundays and holidays. Tipping is not expected, but it is appreciated—10% is customary for good service. To call a taxi, phone 93-303-30-33, or use the El Taxi 033 app. Taxi apps such as Uber and Cabify also operate in Madrid.

Tip: Be sure that the meter is turned on when you get into a taxi. Drivers prefer to estimate the cost of the ride, which will almost always cost more than the metered fare. You’ll also find unmetered taxis that hire out for the day or the afternoon. They are legal, but sometimes charge exorbitant rates. To avoid them, always take a black taxi with horizontal red bands or a white one with diagonal red bands.

If you take a taxi outside the city limits, the driver is entitled to charge you twice the rate shown on the meter. 

Driving

Public transit is so good that inside the city you should leave the driving to Madrileños. They’re the ones who grew up watching bullfights and understand the balance of aggression and aversion necessary to navigate Madrid’s nonsensical intersections. 

Renting a car for excursions is another matter, as pickup points are usually at train stations or the airport, where it’s easy to reach outlying highways. Citizens of non-EU countries should obtain an International Drivers Permit before arriving in Spain. Without one, some agencies may refuse to rent you a car. Car rentals at the airport include Avis (tel. 91-743-88-67), Hertz (tel. 91-746-60-04), Europcar (tel. 91-743-87-58), Sixt and Enterprise. Most can also arrange downtown pickup and drop-off.

By Bike 

In common with many major cities, Madrid now has an electric bike-share system, called BiciMAD. Anyone can pick up one of 7,500 bikes from docking stations all over the city. Rides cost just 0.50€ for the first and second period of 30 minutes, rising to 3€ per 30 minutes after that. Sign up using the app, which has a map showing you where bikes are available near you. The Madrid authorities have clamped down on e-scooter rental schemes following concerns about safety and cluttered sidewalks. 

Orientation

Although modern Madrid has long outgrown its original boundaries and sprawls in all directions, it is striking how easy it is to get around. Given that this is Europe’s third largest capital—after London and Berlin—its main sights and places of interest are conveniently close together.

The center of the Spanish capital is a huddle of medieval alleyways and squares, with an elegant reminder of the old Habsburg capital between the Royal Palace and Plaza Mayor. Dissecting the center is the Manhattan-style Gran Vía. Across the wide modern Castellana Avenue, leading north to the Plaza Castilla, lies the spacious Parque del Retiro, surrounded by 19th-century residential areas. The lower part of Castellana Avenue is the most beautiful, stretching from the lush tree-shaded Paseo del Prado and running alongside the world-famous museum to cosmopolitan Recoletos, with the city's most elegant cafe terraces. Fanning out around Madrid, expanding new suburbs and fashionable American-style satellite towns are gradually absorbing much of the capital's booming five-million-plus population.

4-5° izda.: A Miniguide to Deciphering the Mystery of Madrid Addresses

The numbers and abbreviations in Spanish addresses can seem complicated when the hotel, pension, gallery, or private residence is located above the ground floor. (Remember: In Europe, the ground floor is the floor on the ground, and is the equivalent to the first floor in the U.S. The first floor in Europe is the one above the ground floor, which is equivalent to the second floor in the U.S.) Once you understand what all the symbols and abbreviations mean, however, you'll find that addresses in Spain are actually quite detailed and specific, explaining where the establishment is located with the utmost precision. Also note that in Spain, as in many other European countries, the building number comes after the street name. Here is a brief explanation of how addresses work:

The first number represents the number of the address on a particular street (for example, Hotel Adler is at Calle Velázquez 33). Sometimes the address may cover two street numbers, separated by a dash or the word y, which means "and" (for example, Hotel Occidental is at Miguel Angel 29-31, while Hotel Tryp Ambassador is at Cuesta Santo Domingo 5 y 7).

The second number, or the number after the street number(s), is followed by a ° (degree symbol). This represents the piso (floor) that the establishment is on. For instance, Hotel Riesco is at Calle Correo 2-3°, which means the hotel is on the third floor at number 2 on Calle Correo; Hotel Astoria is at Carrera de San Jerónimo 30-32-5°, which means the hotel is on the fifth floor at nos. 30-32 on Carrera de San Jerónimo.

After the number with a degree symbol, you may see a third item. This will really only apply to a private residence or a small gallery. If there are only two units on a particular floor, you might see izda. or dcha. These abbreviations for the izquierda (left) or derecha (right), respectively, signal the location of the establishment within the building. For example, the Guillermo de Osma Art Gallery is at Claudio Coello 4-1° izda., which means the gallery is on the left side of the first floor of no. 4 on Claudio Coello. Alternatively, if the establishment is on a floor containing more than two apartments or galleries (generally, there may be up to six), you might see something with a superscript a or o, representing the unit number, such as 1° or 1a (primero/a) for the first unit, 3° or 3a (tercero/a) for the third unit, and so on. For example, Calle de Ferraz 32-34-2°-5° designates the fifth unit on the second floor at nos. 32-34 on Calle de Ferraz, and Calle del Amparo 21-3°-6a is the sixth unit on the third floor of no. 21 on Calle del Amparo.

And just to complicate matters even more, finding an address within Madrid's grand boulevards and cramped meandering streets can sometimes be a problem, primarily because of the way buildings are numbered. On most streets, the numbering begins on one side and runs consecutively until the end, resuming on the other side and going in the opposite direction. Thus, no. 50 could be opposite no. 250. But there are many exceptions to this system. That's why it's important to know the cross street as well as the number of the address you're looking for. In fact, some addresses don't have a number at all. What they have is the designation s/n, which means sin número (without number). For example, the address of the Panteón de Goya (Goya's Tomb) is Glorieta de San Antonio de la Florida s/n.

Neighborhoods in Brief

Madrid can be divided into two main zones of real interest to visitors: the old traditional Center, with the Puerta del Sol and Gran Vía at its heart and surrounding 17th-century Austrias, and Castizo (traditional) Argüelles, Chueca, Malasaña, Chamberí, and Lavapiés districts; and the newer Ensanche (extension) refers to all parts of Madrid built outside of the old city walls from the 18th century onward. This area includes the wide cosmopolitan Castellana Avenue, with its business offices and classy hotels; the grid-planned, once mansion-filled Salamanca barrio, home of some of Madrid's best shops and restaurants; and northern Chamartín district, with its easier-going residential atmosphere.

Madrid fans out in three parts. Old Madrid lies at the center, crowded around the Plaza Mayor. Also known as the Madrid of the Austrias, after the Habsburgs who established their court here in the 16th century, it contains many of the historic sites and monuments that visitors come to see. Modern Madrid, which surrounds it, developed following the demolition of the old city walls in 1860, including Gran Vía and elegant new neighborhoods to the north and east. The huge Nuevos Ministerios government complex was completed just after the Civil War and there was further showy expansion under Franco in the 1950s and 1960s. In recent decades the city has invested heavily in iconic contemporary architecture. Outer Madrid stretches out toward the Castilian countryside, taking the greater Madrid population to more than 6 million. Its urbanizations naturally hold less interest for most visitors.

Art District and Paseos--The long, broad boulevard of the Paseos forms Madrid’s north-south axis, changing its name along the way. The business and diplomatic district of Paseo de la Castellana runs southward to quaint Paseo de Recoletos and its literary cafés. At Plaza de Cibeles, it becomes Paseo del Prado where the art museums of El Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza, and Reina Sofía form a golden triangle just a few hundred meters apart. The city’s grandest hotels and restaurants look on. In summer, the broad central medians become open-air terraces filled with booksellers and strolling crowds. Stay around here if you’re planning to spend much of your time at the art galleries.

Opera and Palacio Real--To the west of Plaza Mayor, the cramped old city gives way to elegant open spaces surrounding the Palacio Real, built in 1734 by Felipe V. Across the road, Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon’s brother, built the half-moon-shaped Plaza de Oriente during his brief reign at the beginning of the 19th century. Its crescent of cafés in front of the Teatro Real is a delight. The pedestrianized square around the Opera Metro stop is named after Isabel II, in whose honor the theater was built.

The Center

The Austrias & Plaza Mayor -- The Austrias quarter, with its alleys and tiny plazas, is named after the 17th-century kings of Spain, and contains the city's most evocative churches. In 1617, the colonnaded Plaza Mayor became the area's hub; today, with its mix of Habsburg, French, and Georgian architecture, it is one of the key nighttime centers of tourist activity. It's filled with cafes, bars, and shops selling everything from turn-of-the-20th-century souvenir hats to stamps and rare coins over the weekend. Concerts, shows, and exhibitions are often held here; and at Navidad, it's a child's delight with a proliferation of Christmas trees and stalls selling gifts. The lavish Reyes (or Three Kings) processions originate from here on January 6 amid much excitement.

The square is bounded by Calle Mayor, Cava de San Miguel, and Calle de la Cruz. Westward from the Plaza, the narrow Arco de Cuchilleros is filled with long-established eating spots and tabernas; cavelike locales, called mesones -- hewn into the base of Cava de San Miguel's old five-story buildings at the northern end of the plaza -- provide wine, tapas, and musical entertainment. Touristy, but great fun. In a narrow atmospheric street called the Cava Baja, just before you reach the Plaza de la Cebada, you'll find the largest concentration of trendy wine bars, homey tabernas, and posada- (inn) style restaurants in all Madrid.

The nearby Plaza de la Paja, close to the city's two oldest churches, was actually the heart of the city and its main marketplace during the medieval period. On the western edge of this area is the diminutive Muslim Madrid zone, which is centered on Las Vistillas, just below the Almudena cathedral and Royal Palace -- the zone enjoys views toward the distant Guadarramas. Below it to the west is the Campo del Moro park; the Manzanares River, with its bordering walkways; and the great green expanse of the Casa de Campo.

Puerta del Sol -- Just east of the Plaza Mayor, the semicircular "Gateway to the Sun" is the starting point for all road distances within Spain. Its attractions are more peripheral, ranging from the shops and department stores of northerly traffic-free Preciados to the countless arrays of bars and nightspots lining the southerly, narrow alleyed district of Huertas.

Dominated by the 18th-century Casa de Correos (seat of the regional government), whose New Year's clock chimes are traditionally witnessed by exhilarated crowds, all eating their 12 grapes in time with the chimes, the crescent-shaped square is perennially lively, and its symbolic statue of the Bear and the Madroño Tree is a favorite rendezvous spot. It's also a prime hunting ground for pickpockets and purse snatchers, so take care.

Gran Vía/Plaza de España -- Gran Vía is the city's main street, lined with cafes, restaurants, cinemas, department stores, and the headquarters of banks and corporations. As you walk along, note the changing styles of buildings on either side: You're actually time-traveling through the 4 decades it took to construct the avenue between the early and mid-1900s. Gran Vía cuts a bow-shaped east-west swathe across the center, between the neoclassical Metrópolis building near the Banco de España and the Plaza de España, where statues of Don Quixote and his faithful squire, Sancho Panza, are set in a park surrounded by olive trees and beside a fountain overlooked by the stark 1950s Torre España and Edificio Europa buildings.

In April 2010, the avenue celebrated the first centenary since its initial surfacing began. Purple carpets covered most of its surface, cars and buses were diverted, and inhabitants and visitors alike enjoyed the rare luxury of strolling along its temporarily peaceful and traffic-free length.

Argüelles/Moncloa -- Just to the northeast of Plaza España is Argüelles, a compact barrio of narrow crisscrossing lanes, sandwiched between promenade-like Pintor Rosales (which runs along the edge of Parque del Oeste) and the shop-filled Calle Princesa leading up to Moncloa. The latter is home to the kitsch '50s Ministerio del Aire building and, slightly to the north, a huge university campus area bounded by the green recreational zones of Puerta de Hierro to the north and Cea Bermúdez and Bravo Murillo avenues to the east. Students haunt its cafes, tascas, and more recent wine bars.

Castizo (Traditional) Madrid

Chueca -- This atmospheric area north of the Gran Vía includes the narrow streets of Hortaleza, Infantas, Barquillo, and San Lucas. Though appealing to all tastes and persuasions with a concentration of richly varied bars and restaurants of all price ranges and nationalities, it's also famed as the center of Madrid's gay scene. At night the entire area is very lively, especially in the tiny main square which is packed with cafe tables and chairs in summer.

Malasaña -- Centered on the famed Plaza Dos de Mayo, this traditional barrio is named after a teenage seamstress -- Manuela Malasaña -- who became an unwitting martyr for the Spanish cause during the Peninsula War, when the scissors she was carrying for her work were interpreted as a lethal weapon by the occupying French forces and she was summarily tried and executed. The neighborhood's grid system of crisscross narrow lanes is still bordered by traditional but now largely renovated 19th-century buildings and, at night, its many music bars are patronized by hard-rock and grunge fans.

Chamberí -- Though built in the late 19th century outside the old city walls, this originally working-class zone is more low-key and upmarket than its southerly counterparts Malasaña and Chueca. The focal point of Chamberí is the circular Plaza Olavide. Classy, elegant, and traditional, Chamberí is set among wide avenues with historic mansions -- many of which now house foreign embassies. The barrio offers an attractive selection of restaurants, bookshops, art galleries, and museums, such as the charming Sorolla (where the famed Valenciano painter lived and worked for many decades).

Lavapiés -- In decay until a few decades back, this former medieval working-class quarter south of the Plaza Mayor has seen many of its lanes turned into pedestrian zones with houses tastefully converted into studio flats. The area is filled with a new polyglot ambience, thanks to the recent immigrant influx from North Africa and the Middle East. The overall blend of the international and earthy bohemian has transformed the area into one of the most evocative and stimulating in Madrid.

The Ensanche

Castellana -- Madrid's longest and most elegant avenue runs south from the Plaza Castilla to Colon (Columbus) Square, and its central pedestrian lanes are summertime open-air terraces filled with animated crowds. En route, it passes the high-rise AZCA business center, huge Santiago Bernabeu fútbol (soccer) stadium, and a choice of top hotels, expensive shops, apartment buildings, luxury hotels, and foreign embassies.

Next comes the shorter and more intimate Recoletos, linking Colon with the emblematic Cibeles fountain whose ever-busy roundabout is overlooked by the main post office (known as "the cathedral of post offices") and the 19th-century French- and Viennese-styled Banco de España. Its central median is often reserved for antique-book fairs, and its most famous buildings include the National Library and Gran Café de Gijón.

The elegant final stretch is the Paseo del Prado, which leads down from Cibeles to Atocha railway station. Tree-shaded and maturely beautiful, it's home to such incomparable city gems as the Neptune statue, Bolsa (Stock Exchange), Ritz hotel, Museo Nacional del Prado, and Botanical Gardens. To the east of the garden lies Parque del Retiro, a magnificent park once reserved for royalty, with rose gardens, wide walkways, terrace cafes, fountains, statues (including the only one in the world dedicated to the devil), musicians and entertainers, a rowing lake (the Estanque), and Madrid's finest homage to the Industrial Revolution: the iron-, tile-, and glass-built Casa de Cristal (Crystal Palace), inspired by its 19th-century London namesake.

Salamanca -- Ever since the city walls came tumbling down in the 1860s, this elegant, stylish, and expensive neighborhood east of the center has been one of the most fashionable areas to live in Madrid. Some of the city's most traditional covered markets are tucked away here. Calle Serrano marks the western border of this neighborhood and is lined with international shops, stores, and boutiques. The U.S. Embassy is located halfway up the avenue, close to the Lazaro Galdiano Museum.

Chamartín -- The home of Madrid's main northerly railway station is also one of the city's most trendy but easy-going corners, with wide avenues, elegant boutique markets, and some charming hotels hidden behind flower-filled gardens. One of the city's largest contingents of long-term expatriates lives in this area, and it has a particularly attractive selection of international eating spots.

When to Go

Spring and fall are ideal times to visit Madrid. May and October are the best months, in terms of weather and crowds. In my view, however, the balmy month of May (with an average temperature of 16°C/61°F) is the most glorious time for making your own discovery of the Spanish capital.

August is the month when Madrid is traditionally at its quietest, as many of its inhabitants have escaped to the mountains or are sunning themselves on the Atlantic or Mediterranean coasts. About 75% of the city's restaurants and shops also decide that it's time for a vacation and close for the month, though visitors usually find enough for their needs. However, these days it's not quite the semi-ghost town it was in the past, as Madrileños have become increasingly attracted by the advantages of staggered holidays. Many now choose June, September, or October as their main vacation time, when those popular coastal areas are less hot, less crowded, and less expensive. Also with the new middle-class affluence, many Spaniards are not necessarily limited to their homeland for choice. Another factor is the increased number of resident immigrants, from South Americans to East Europeans, who by choice or for economic reasons tend to stay, live, and continue working throughout the summer.

The main problem with summers in Madrid is the ovenlike midsummer heat (mercifully dry), which, in July and August, can sometimes reach afternoon maximums of 40°C (104°F), though the abundance of air-conditioned locales and soothing lack of crowds produce a unique, daylong siesta atmosphere.

Public Holidays (Fiestas)

Holidays include January 1 (New Year's Day), January 6 (Feast of the Epiphany), March 19 (Feast of St. Joseph), Good Friday, Easter Monday, May 1 (May Day), June 10 (Corpus Christi), June 29 (Feast of Sts. Peter and Paul), July 25 (Feast of St. James), August 15 (Feast of the Assumption), October 12 (Spain's National Day), November 1 (All Saints' Day), December 8 (Immaculate Conception), and December 25 (Christmas).

No matter how large or small, every city or town in Spain also celebrates its local saint's day. In Madrid, it's May 15 (St. Isidro). You'll rarely know what the local holidays are in your next destination in Spain. Try to keep money on hand, because you may arrive in town only to find banks and stores closed. In some cases, intercity bus services are suspended on holidays.

Calendar of Events

The Madrileño calendar is a colorful kaleidoscope of saint's days, fiestas, and bullfights. Art exhibitions are perennial features during the hot summers, and you can enjoy concerts in Parque del Retiro as well as other open areas. Check the website of the city tourism office for details.

The dates given below may not be precise. Sometimes the exact days may not be announced until 6 weeks before the actual festival. Check with the National Tourist Office of Spain if you're planning to attend a specific event.

Madrid's Three Bigget Fiestas

Fiesta de San Isidro -- Held in honor of Madrid's patron saint, fiesta activities cover ceramic, crockery, and secondhand book fairs. Local couples, known as chulos and chulapas, parade in Castizo (traditional) dress and enjoy feasts, romerías, and music acts in key spots like the 16th-century Plaza Mayor and leafy Pradera de San Isidro (the setting for those idyllic celebratory images of yesteryear immortalized on canvas by Goya). During this 4-week period, the most consecutive daily bullfights are held. Mid-May.

Virgen de la Paloma -- This lively festival belies the midsummer image of Madrid as a temporarily lethargic ghost city, with practically everyone out of town basking on the Levante and Cantabrian coasts. On August 15, the La Latina quarter becomes a crowded riot of street bunting, drinking stalls, live music, and kiddies' events. A float decorated with bright carnations and bearing an 18th-century gold framed portrait of Madrid's patron saint (the Virgin of La Paloma) is carried through streets on August 15 by the city bomberos (firemen).

The Autumn Festival -- Held in October and November, the Feria del Otoño (tel. 91-580-25-75) is the best music festival in Spain, with a lineup that attracts the crème de la crème of the European and South American musical communities. The usual roster of chamber music, symphonic pieces, and orchestral works is supplemented by a program of zarzuela (musical comedy), as well as Arabic and Sephardic pieces composed during the Middle Ages.

January Celebrations in Madrid

Three Kings Day (Día de los Reyes). Parades are staged throughout the main arteries of the city in anticipation of the Feast of the Epiphany (Jan 6). Parades usually take place on January 5 or 6.

February Celebrations in Madrid

ARCO (Madrid's International Contemporary Art Fair). One of the biggest draws on Spain's cultural calendar, this exhibit showcases the best in contemporary art from Europe and America. At the Crystal Pavilion of the Casa de Campo, the exhibition draws galleries from throughout Europe, the Americas, Australia, and Asia, who bring with them the works of regional and internationally known artists. To buy tickets, you can contact El Corte Inglés (tel. 91-418-88-00) or Madrid Rock (tel. 91-547-24-23). Dates vary, but usually mid-February.

Madrid Carnaval. The carnival kicks off with a big parade along the Paseo de la Castellana, culminating in a masked ball at the Círculo de Bellas Artes on the following night. Fancy-dress competitions are first. The festivities end with a tear-jerking "burial of a sardine" at the Fuente de los Pajaritos in the Casa de Campo, followed that evening by a concert in the Plaza Mayor. Dates vary; 5 days before Ash Wednesday.

March Celebrations in Madrid

Semana Santa (Holy Week). Although many of the country's smaller towns stage similar celebrations (especially notable in Zamora, Valladolid, and Seville), the festivities in Madrid are among the most elaborate. From Palm Sunday until Easter Sunday, a series of processions with hooded penitents moves to the piercing wail of the saeta, a love song to the Virgin or Christ. Pasos (heavy floats) bear images of the Virgin or Christ. Make hotel reservations way in advance. Usually last week of March.

April Festivals in Madrid

Bullfights. Holy week traditionally kicks off the season in Madrid. This national pastime affords the visitor an unparalleled insight into the Spanish temperament.

May Festivals in Madrid

Dos de Mayo. May 2 sees the commemoration of the valiant, but unsuccessful, uprising against occupying French forces during the Peninsula War in 1808, which was brutally repressed and stirringly immortalized in Goya's famous El Tres de Mayo de 1808 en Madrid painting of firing-squad victims. Rock concerts and flamenco shows take place in the Dos de Mayo square in Malasaña, where the rebellion began, as well as in other parts of the city.

Fiesta de San Isidro. See above.

Feria del Libro. This annual book fair is located in Parque del Retiro. Leading international novelists and historians come to promote their latest works and the number of stands increases annually. The feria covers 2 weeks from late May to early June.

June Festivals in Madrid

Corpus Christi. A major holiday on the Spanish calendar, this event is marked by big processions in Madrid, as well as in nearby cathedral cities such as Toledo. Dates vary in June.

July Festivals in Madrid

Veranos de la Villa. Called "the summer binge" of Madrid, this program presents folkloric dancing, pop music, classical music, zarzuelas, and flamenco at various venues throughout the city. Open-air cinema is a feature in the Parque del Retiro. Ask at the various tourist offices for complete details (the program changes every summer). Sometimes admission is charged, but often these events are free. Mid-July until the end of August.

August Festivals in Madrid

Fiestas of Lavapiés and La Paloma. These two fiestas begin with the Lavapiés on August 1 and continue through the hectic La Paloma celebration on August 15, the day of the Virgen de la Paloma. Thousands of people race through the narrow streets. Apartment dwellers hurl buckets of cold water onto the crowds below to cool them off. Children's games, floats, music, flamenco, and zarzuelas, along with street fairs, mark the occasion. See above for more..

October Festivals in Madrid

Autumn Festival. Spanish and international artists alike participate in this cultural program, with a series of operatic, ballet, dance, music, and theatrical performances. From Strasbourg to Tokyo, this event is a premier attraction, yet ticket prices are reasonable. Make hotel reservations early, and for tickets write to Feria del Otoño, Plaza de España 8, 28008 Madrid (tel. 91-580-25-75). See also "The Big Three Fiestas," above. Late October to late November.

December Festivals in Madrid

Día de los Santos Inocentes. Another countrywide holiday. On this day, the Spanish play many practical jokes and, in general, do loco things to one another -- it's the Spanish equivalent of April Fools' Day. December 28.

Visitor Information

The most comprehensive tourist office in the city center is at Casa de la Panadería, Plaza Mayor, 27 (tel. 91-578-78-10; WhatsApp 61-911-10-94; metro: Sol or Opera), open daily from 9am to 8pm. In addition to face-to-face advice, it has self-service terminals where you can download mobile guides and take virtual tours. There’s also a ticket office for various attractions and a souvenir shop. Several smaller information booths are dotted around the city, including at airport Terminals 2 and 4, Museu del Prado, Palacio Real, and CentroCentro within the Palacio de Cibeles. It’s worth browsing the tourist board’s excellent multi-lingual website before you arrive.

Fast Facts

Banks & ATMs -- The Covid pandemic spurred most places in Madrid to accept card payments, but it’s still worth carrying cash for exceptions such as markets and smaller bars. You’ll find ATMs in the main shopping districts and around major Metro stations. Most allow cash withdrawals via MasterCard or Visa, charging around 1.95€ per transaction, and offer a choice of language including English. Major Spanish banks include Banco Santander, BBVA, and Caixabank. Opening hours are generally 8:30am–2:30pm, Monday to Saturday.

Business Hours -- Shopping centers and many city-center shops stay open continuously from 10am to 9 or 10pm, but smaller shops may close between 2 and 5pm for lunch, and open again from 5–8:30pm. At restaurants, lunch can be as late as 3:30pm. Many close around 4:30pm and reopen around 8pm.

Doctors & Dentists -- For a list of English-speaking doctors and dentists working in Madrid, visit the U.S. Embassy website. For medical or dental emergencies, consult Unidad Médica Anglo-Americana, Conde de Arandá 1 (tel. 91-435-18-23 and 64-987-00-68) 

Emergencies -- Call tel. 112 for fire, police, and ambulance services. (comunidad.madrid/servicios/112)

Hospitals & Clinics -- EU citizens are entitled to free medical care while in Spain; make sure to bring your European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) with you. Citizens of other countries are strongly advised to take out medical insurance before they travel. For a list of hospitals and English-speaking clinics, consult es.usembassy.gov/medical-assistance

Internet Access -- Free Wi-Fi (pronounced “wiffy” in Spanish) is offered at almost all hotels and hostels and is widely available in cafés and bars. To ask for the password, say: “la contraseña wifi, por favor.” The city government provides free Wi-Fi at hotspots around the city and on parts of the bus and Metro network. For a full list, visit esmadrid.com/en/wi-fi-hotspots. If you need internet on the go, consider buying a local SIM card or eSIM for your trip. Pre-paid SIM cards are available at the airport and at kiosks from providers such as Movistar, Orange, and Vodafone. Madrid has strong 4G/5G coverage.

Mail & Postage -- The post office within the former Palacio de Comunicaciones on Plaza de Cibeles, Paseo del Prado, 1 (correos.es), is open Monday–Friday 8:30am–8:30pm. Sending a letter or postcard to the US or European countries costs around 1.75€ . You can also buy stamps in tobacconist shops (estancos), which have maroon signs with the word Tabacos in yellow letters.

Pharmacies -- Madrid has more than 1,000 farmacias. To find one on almost any shopping street, look for an illuminated green cross. Staff often speak English and will happily give advice on minor ailments. After hours, they post a list of nearby pharmacies that are open late. Or check the pharmacists’ website (farmacias.es/madrid) for a list of 24-hour pharmacies. 

Police -- Madrid’s central police station at Calle de las Huertas, 76–78 (metro Antón Martín) is open 24 hours. To report an incident in English, dial 90-210-21-12, 9am–9pm Monday–Friday. The National Police have a program called SATE, the Foreign Tourist Assistance Service (policia.es/_es/idioma_en_policia.php), to help tourists file complaints, cancel credit cards, and contact or locate family members. 

Safety -- As in every big, crowded city around the world, purse snatching and pickpocketing are facts of life in Madrid, especially wherever there are lots of slightly disoriented tourists paying scant attention to their belongings. Don’t let down your guard and you’re unlikely to be a victim.

Money

If there is one thing old Spaniards wax nostalgic over, it's not the police state they experienced under the dictatorship of Franco, but the prices paid back then. How they miss the days when you could go into a restaurant and order a meal with wine for 50 pesetas.

Regrettably, Spain is no longer a ultra budget destination. In Madrid, you can often find hotels charging the same prices as in London or Paris.

Taken as a whole, though, Madrid remains slightly below the cost-of-living index of other major European capitals. Unless the current monetary situation is drastically altered, there is a reasonably favorable exchange rate in Spain when you pay in U.S. dollars.

Prices in Madrid are generally high, but you get good value for your money. Hotels are usually clean and comfortable, and restaurants generally offer good cuisine and ample portions made with quality ingredients. Trains are fast and on time, and most service personnel treat you with respect.

In Madrid, many prices for children -- generally defined as ages 6 to 17 -- are lower than for adults. Fees for children under 6 are generally waived.

Getting Euros in Madrid

Exchange rates are generally more favorable at the point of arrival. Nevertheless, it's often helpful to exchange at least some money before going abroad to take care of incidentals on your way to your hotel (though taxi's and metro stations will accept credit cards).

On arrival in Madrid, it's best to use a bank ATM rather than exchange currency at a cambio, hotel, or shop. Be sure, however, that the ATM you're using is affiliated with a bank. Some currency exchange businesses now operate ATM's at many airports and in major tourist areas and their exchange rates tend to be lousy. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions than for domestic ones. The exception to this rule are the ATM cards that credit unions issue. If you plan to be doing a lot of traveling, you may want to get an ATM or credit card through one of those.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer good exchange rates. Never use them to withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs—the fees for that kind of transaction are exorbitant.  Also: if you're asked whether you want to use your credit card to pay in the local currency or in dollars, always ask for the local currency. If you do the latter, you'll get a not-as-good exchange rate from the business you're paying.

American Express, Visa, MasterCard, and Diners Club credit cards are all widely accepted in Spain. Discover Card is not widely accepted in Spain.

Health & Safety

Health

Spain should not pose any major health hazards. The rich cuisine -- garlic, olive oil, and wine -- may give some travelers mild diarrhea, so take along some antidiarrhea medicine, moderate your eating habits, and even though the water is generally safe, drink mineral water only. Fish and shellfish from the polluted Mediterranean should only be eaten cooked, though in Madrid most seafood comes from the cleaner Atlantic-washed Northern provinces, and you might risk the odd raw percebe (goose barnacle) if you can afford it.

The water is safe to drink through Spain; however, do not drink the water in mountain streams, regardless of how clear and pure it looks.

General Availability of Health Care -- No shots of any sort are required before traveling to Spain. Once there, medicines for common ailments, from colds to diarrhea, can be obtained over the counter at local chemists or farmacias. Generic equivalents of common prescription drugs are also usually available in Spain. (However, it does no harm to bring over-the-counter medicines with you to be on the safe side.)

Change of Diet -- No need to go on a tempting cholesterol binge if you really don't want to. Vegetarians can follow their usual diet pattern in Madrid, as there is an increasing number of vegetarian eating spots available as well as a multitude of herbolarios, or health-food shops.

Sun Exposure -- Madrid has a dry, sunny climate (over 300 cloudless days a year), and it's best to take protective measures against sunburn and heatstroke. This is particularly valid in May and June, when the days are long and the sun's rays are deceptively intense. The temperatures then are not as oppressive as those of July and August when you feel more inclination to stay in the shade or seek solace in an air-conditioned locale. Limit your exposure to the sun, especially during the first few days of your trip if you're traveling to the south, and, thereafter, from 11am to 2pm. Use a sunscreen with a high protection factor, and apply it liberally. Remember that children need more protection than adults.

Visitors with eyesight problems should also take care to avoid the sun's strong glare, using prescription sunglasses.

What To Do If You Get Sick Away From Home -- Spanish medical facilities are among the best in the world. If a medical emergency arises, your hotel staff can usually put you in touch with a reliable doctor. If not, contact your embassy or consulate; each one maintains a list of English-speaking doctors. Medical and hospital services aren't free, so be sure that you have appropriate insurance coverage before you travel.

If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels; otherwise they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name.

Safety

While most of Spain has a moderate rate of "conventional" crime, and most tourists have trouble-free visits to Spain, the principal tourist areas have been experiencing a small increase in violent crime. Madrid has reported growing incidents of muggings, and older tourists and Asian-Americans seem to be particularly at risk. Criminals frequent tourist areas and major attractions such as museums, monuments, restaurants, hotels, beach resorts, trains, train stations, airports, subways, and ATMs.

Reported incidents have occurred in key tourist areas, including the zones around the Prado Museum and Atocha train station, and parts of old Madrid such as Puerta del Sol, El Rastro flea market, and Plaza Mayor. Travelers should exercise caution, carry limited cash and credit cards, and leave extra cash, credit cards, passports, and personal documents in a safe location. Crimes have occurred at all times of day and night, though visitors and residents alike are more vulnerable in the early hours of the morning.

Thieves often work in teams or pairs. In most cases, one person distracts a victim while the accomplice performs the robbery. For example, a stranger might wave a map in your face and ask for directions or "inadvertently" spill something on you. While your attention is diverted, an accomplice makes off with the valuables. Attacks can also be initiated from behind, with the victim being grabbed around the neck and choked by one assailant while others rifle through the belongings. A group of assailants may surround the victim, maybe in a crowded popular tourist area or on public transportation, and only after the group has departed does the person discover he or she has been robbed. Some attacks have been so violent that victims have needed to seek medical attention afterward.

Theft from parked cars is also common. Small items such as luggage, cameras, or briefcases are often stolen from them. Travelers are advised not to leave valuables in cars when they park them and to keep doors locked, windows rolled up, and valuables out of sight when driving. "Good Samaritan" scams are unfortunately common. A passing car will attempt to divert the driver's attention by indicating there is a mechanical problem. If the driver stops to check the vehicle, accomplices steal from the car while the driver is looking elsewhere. Drivers should be cautious about accepting help from anyone other than a uniformed Spanish police officer or Civil Guard.

Tips for Gay and Lesbian Travelers

In 1978, Spain legalized homosexuality among consenting adults. In April 1995, the parliament of Spain banned discrimination based on sexual orientation. Madrid is one of the country's major gay centers and the action is mainly located in the Castizo quarter of Chueca between the Gran Vía and Calle Genova. Clubs here range from the relatively sedate to the downright outrageous, and there are also a couple of gay-theme bookshops. The tiny Plaza de Chueca bustles with outdoor cafe life in summer and is a good spot for impromptu encounters.

Tips for Women Travelers

Spain is not Mexico or Colombia, and in capital Madrid in particular, women are as emancipated as in any other main European city. If a degree of machismo still exists, it is minimal today; and women are increasingly reaching high positions in all walks of life (though not as many as they would like). As for women exploring the city on their own, the degree of hassle experienced is scarcely different from Paris or London.