Smithereens
The team at restaurant—alums of both Claud (above) and the Momofuku empire—are adept at sow’s ear/silk purse transformations. They’ve taken what should be a dingy basement space and turned it into one of the coziest eateries in town, coloring the walls a moody Atlantic ocean blue-gray and placing tables just the right distance from one another. They’re also making diners rethink such lowly items as beans (transformed into creamy, briny goodness with a topping of sea urchin, red shrimp, and squid), buckwheat pancakes (a delivery vessel for perfectly smoked fish), and celery (whipped into ice cream and floated in a celery soda—it’s odd but delish). The drinks list, crafted by the young sommelier/co-owner, is heavy on unusual and marvelous German whites; there’s also a savvy cocktail program (try the tasty “Ben Afflek”). One warning: if you don’t like seafood, dine elsewhere, as there’s not much else on the menu. The restaurant was named for a film about the East Village in its punk rock era.
Above: A bartender at Smithereens suggests a cocktail.
The team at restaurant—alums of both Claud (above) and the Momofuku empire—are adept at sow’s ear/silk purse transformations. They’ve taken what should be a dingy basement space and turned it into one of the coziest eateries in town, coloring the walls a moody Atlantic ocean blue-gray and placing tables just the right distance from one another. They’re also making diners rethink such lowly items as beans (transformed into creamy, briny goodness with a topping of sea urchin, red shrimp, and squid), buckwheat pancakes (a delivery vessel for perfectly smoked fish), and celery (whipped into ice cream and floated in a celery soda—it’s odd but delish). The drinks list, crafted by the young sommelier/co-owner, is heavy on unusual and marvelous German whites; there’s also a savvy cocktail program (try the tasty “Ben Afflek”). One warning: if you don’t like seafood, dine elsewhere, as there’s not much else on the menu. The restaurant was named for a film about the East Village in its punk rock era.
Above: A bartender at Smithereens suggests a cocktail.
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