Pauline Frommer
North America / USA / New York State / New York City / Best Restaurants

Spice Brothers

Not many schwarma-and-felafel-joints have this kind of pedigree, with an owner who learned his trade in the kitchen of star chef Daniel Boulud. But fine dining's loss is cheap eats gain, with owner Lior Lev Sercarz (and partner David Malbequi) serving up meal-sized sandwiches and platters for less than the cost of most appetizers in nearby restaurants. Yes, you have to go up to the counter to order, but nothing else here feels lowbrow—the room with its five tidy tables and blue mural is a pleasant one, and beer and wine is available with your meal. As you might have guessed from the name, what's special here is the way everything is spiced. But spiced doesn't always mean fiery in this case. When Sercarz stopped working in restaurants he opened a business creating spice mixes for some of the biggest chefs in the industry. He procured seeds, bark, leaves, peppers, and roots from farmers around the world, processed them into dry spice mixes which he sold to chefs like Eric Ripert and Michael Solomonov, along with the general public. Those spices are put to excellent use here in dishes like lamb arayes, cinamonny meatballs that are fried in a pita pocket, and sided by a mango pickle sauce called amba, and a creamy tahini. The chicken schwarma is yellowed by tumeric, mellowed by cumin, and given a smoky punch by pimenton. It's another top pick here. There are also excellent and crispy felafel, chicken schnitzel and more. Tip: If you accidentally bite the super spicy pickled pepper that comes with sandwiches, sooth your tongue with their excellent coconut pudding (a dessert).